| Re: [GMCnet] GMCNet Portional Valve (update) [message #328682] |
Mon, 29 January 2018 10:21  |
THOMAS R WHITTON
Messages: 47
Registered: September 2016
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Update on proportional valve replacement.
This is an update on replacing the proportional valve. I sprayed "witches brew" penetrating oil (50% acetone, 50% ATF) for four days. On the fifth day I used a pencil torch on the line nuts to the valve then, while still hot and pushing the nut counter clockwise with a line wrench, I repeatedly hit the wrench where it was overlaying the nut with a hammer. The line slowly came loose from the nut with each hammer blow. The procedure worked on three of the five lines but didn't work on two. (The first two I worked on and went to school on.) Unfortunately, I cork screwed the two lines that run to the master cylinder and will be replacing them. These lines run through several tight spaces that I have made tighter by adding accessories over the years. I could remove everything to run new brake lines but that would just make the job infinitely harder.
I got on Google for brake line lessons. I'm impressed with the ease of working with NICOPP tubing (nickel-copper). I watched the factory man and then a couple of real life mechanics. NICOPP apparently has more than adequate PSI capacity, is easy to bend, flare and will not rust. Do any of you have experience with this tubing? What's the downside, if any?
Here's one of my Google lessons: https://oppositelock.kinja.com/the-truth-about-copper-brake-lines-1818499200
I look forward to your thoughts.
Tom Whitton26 foot updated GMCPaducah, Ky
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