| Cooling/pump/radiator [message #275331] |
Tue, 07 April 2015 20:19  |
Tilerpep
Messages: 404
Registered: June 2013
Location: Raleigh, NC
Karma:
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Thought I had cooling taken care of. Things were working fine. Secured a NOS fan clutch, needed a new alternator belt and to tighten all of them, had new upper and lower radiator hoses in hand, and installed a new house water heater and hoses to the rear. So tackled all four projects by draining coolant and doing all the above. Put all together, refilled coolant. I knew I could/would have bubbles with the water heater loop extra, so ran a few minutes, and shut it off. Repeated several times. Acts like either the radiator is clogged or water pump not working at all. Top radiator hose gets tight, but not hot, radiator no heat, new house water heater loop hoses no heat. IR reader says even intake manifold uneven heat, which if I understand the pump right, that should get circulation even without loop to radiator (like if the thermostat or radiator is bad but pump working).
Thermostat is a few months old. Radiator cap is two years old
Questions:
Does top hose getting tight mean pump working and radiator clogged?
Do I have to drain it again and run garden hose to radiator top hose to test it?
Can adding the new water heater loop create air pockets that impair functionality this bad?
If dash heater control set to hot, and a loop to house water heater, shouldn't those get circulation even if thermostat closed?
Could I have put the house water heater connections in the wrong place? (It has never been functional while I have owned. Rear of engine block little vertical "T" that feeds forward and heater, and other connects to T at front of engine off water pump and other side goes to dash heat)
Is there a way to test water pump?
TIA
1975 Glenbrook, 1978 Royale rear bath
Raleigh, NC
|
|
|
|
GMCforum
Search
Help
Register
Login
Home
