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Wicked Mistress update [message #251165] Sun, 01 June 2014 13:03 Go to previous message
Joe Weir is currently offline  Joe Weir   United States
Messages: 769
Registered: February 2013
Location: Columbia, SC
Karma:
Senior Member
These updates serve two purposes: for the amusement of the veteran mechanics and GMC'ers and as insight for the newbies contemplating repairs.

When we last left our naive intrepid mechanic, he was replacing the 40 yr old brake lines that started leaking after they were wiped off...a side detour in the quest to fix a leaking fuel line that turned into a fuel tank refurbish palooza. All he had left was the rear two lines...saving the best for last.

Never in my 50 years have I battled rusty bolts as formidable as these.

The flare nut fitting on the passenger side line, at the rear T, stripped out promptly, even with the all too clever brake line vice grip. That would have to dealt with on the bench once the line came out. The two clamps holding the line to the frame were at just such a weird angle that I couldn't get a good socket on it, and stripped with every wrench I had. So I went after the brackets on the frame...also frozen and locked up. I was beginning to think they were reverse threaded, and had painful flashbacks to the Triumph Spitfire incident...6 months of hell that ended only when I found someone crazier than I was to take that heap home. So after wasting most of a perfectly good Saturday with precious little to show for it, I soaked everything with penetrating oil and gave it a break. Finally ended up having to crack the nuts to get the brackets out. All of the brake hard lines are now new, with polyarmour hard lines held in place with stainless fasteners - you are welcome future owner.. The hard lines were not too difficult to bend, but after wrestling with getting the old stuff out, I can definitely see value in the pre-bent stainless set JimK sells.

The final tally was about $150 in materials - rolls of 1/4" and 3/16" polyarmour, fittings, and 5 sticks of straight polyarmour. But I spent a lot of time bending and flaring line - sometimes repeatedly as the flaring tool was a hit or miss proposition.

Now, finally, the fuel tanks can go in! Opted to use polyarmour on the top of the tank with the latest in high-speed, low-drag, low vapor, unobtanium laced synthetic reinforced flexible lines, as seen on tv, for the balance (Gate$ Barricade FI hose). Shoot, this line is so good, I bet it lasts TEN years... Very Happy. I considered going all hard lines, but my adventures with the flaring tool on the brake lines convinced me that this was not a good idea for my level of skill.

After 4 hours of struggling and at least twice as many newly learned cursewords, the rear tank is in! This is a job best done with a helping hand and an abundance of clearance under the coach - of course I had neither. Using two ratcheting straps was a help, but it is still a bear to wrestle into place.

Don't know if it was a PO thing, it looks like it was, there was a hard gas line to the fridge that had to be put in after the last time the main tank was dropped. I do not think the factory would put an immovable gas line in the way of an item designed to be removed. This turned out to be what made the job take so long. The line was run under the lip of the gas tank at the rear, and would get caught on top of the tank when installing, causing the whole thing not to fit. It was virtually impossible to see with the tank in position to lift. The fix was to slide the driver side rear corner in first, and then slide the tank over and jack up the rear. Easier said than done.

It did not help that while I could use a creeper to get to the front, the rear clearance was barely enough to belly shimmy up to the rear of the tank. Just getting the adjustments front to rear was a workout. Now I know why hard fuel line advocates are so inspired.

Daylight was fading so I left the aux tank for another day.

Lessons learned:
If you can choose where to start your fuel tank removal - pick a nice level piece of polished concrete. A driveway will do, but the rough surface makes minor positioning the jack, to get the tank just so when lifting, more of a challenge.

If you can bribe a friend to help with the install, do so. There is nothing to be gained by trying to install solo. Oh, they will drop out easy enough, but I forgot my assistant was gravity.

Make sure you have enough clearance under the coach to use a creeper to get to either side of the tanks.

keep the laptop handy to consult the archives when you hit a speedbump.

YMMV

Now I just need to finish the aux tank, bleed the brakes and install the upper PS bracket & hopefully it will be ready to roll...WooHoo.

Beach trip in August, at this rate its going to be close... Laughing


76 Birchaven - "Wicked Mistress" - New engine, trans, alum radiator, brakes, Sully airbags, fuel lines, seats, adult beverage center... those Coachmen guys were really thinking about us second hand owners by including that beverage center... Columbia, SC.
 
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