| and the alternator saga continues [message #226276] |
Sun, 20 October 2013 11:53  |
skip2
Messages: 544
Registered: September 2011
Location: Winter Haven,FL (center o...
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Last week I posted about getting in on jumping the batteries out to charge from the onan and the battery wizard. Got the 100 amp caddy alternator together and checked good on the machine at Advanced Auto. On the old one I found the positive bridge from the diode bar had melted into at the stud going out the back, presume it was loose, got hot, got looser, got hotter, got looser ETC then it melted into.
Replacing it is where the fun began. Easy enough to change out, put the new one on and found the nut from the old one was smaller. Had to pull it out to find the right nut, afraid threads were messed up, found right nut and put back in and noticed the stud was loose when tightening down so had to pull it again take apart and tighten stud. Reinstalled and all was well till I checked charging and none to be had. Through trial and error I used the internal excitor terminal on the isolator and it started charging, didn't need it with the old one. This is where the mystery comes in, It barely charges through the isolator, mid 12s and if the lights aren't on it barely keeps up, if I jumper from alternator terminal to each battery terminal I get the full high 13's on both batteries individually. Is there built in resistance in the isolator. The isolator is a SURE POWER 9523A it says 95 amp limit, hard to believe 5 amps would make that much difference. Is this where the combiner would come in? Yes it has an APC cable. Any Thoughts. Thanks
Skip Hartline
74 Canyon Lands, FiTech,
3.7 FD LSD, Manny Tranny,
Springfield Distributor,
2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
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