| Assessing a coach - purchased! Brake re-do not enough [message #213093] |
Tue, 02 July 2013 22:28  |
Tilerpep
Messages: 404
Registered: June 2013
Location: Raleigh, NC
Karma:
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Ai yi yi. The honeymoon is over and I never left the driveway. Despite multiple twelve hour days, still no brakes. New master cylinder, front lines, front calipers and pads. Rear brakes driver side were close to correct, passenger side adjust lever wasn't even hooked up, midwheel star was so far out it was useless for e-brake. I learned about the little button on the combination valve to bleed with. Got it all together, fired up the motor (first time from main tanks instead of gas can in floor because filler hose was shot on front tank)and the brakes were hard as a rock and barely would stop me in the driveway. I can't jog backwards to adjust parking brake because the regular brakes just don't work. I don't think the combo valve is bad, because neither end is stopping, and pedal feels all wrong.
So I am figuring the vacuum/power booster is bad. Intended to check for vacuum at booster, but I couldn't get the vacuum hose off by MC on first attempt for fear of damage. Maintenance manual mentions an air filter in the troubleshooting (page 5.13) is that serviceable? Anything else to look at on booster or other suggestions? Is there a part number for a booster that I could get locally?
Upside after brake test disappointed - messed around with air system, found a third leak and seems to pump and hold pressure. Is it normal for the "lower" setting to just vent right there at the control? I laughed it surprised me, but it lowered all right.
If you're still reading...I repacked the rear bearings when I was in there. couldn't get hub off drum to replace broken wheel stud - do that later. greased as many fittings as I could find in front, I think I missed one at bottom of steering column. and I couldn't find zerks on the lower ball joints. cut the ground wire at the buzz box and removed it. Anyone have a spare/unused/used newer style converter they want to sell? Looks like my macerator pump is corroded/dead. I may try to disassemble it and get it going. the gate from black tank to macerator assembly is frozen, but gate posterior seems fine, so I can use gravity in the mean time. I put in a new thermostat to be safe and very pleased with how the old one looked upon removal. found several bad vacuum hoses, worse one to the distributor advance. Pulled driver side back wall out, it was just disintegrated pressboard under the laminate. Blanket box I'm sure will be the same. Roof leaks and interior plumbing haven't even been started yet to stop water intrusion. I have a significant exhaust leak at a junction just ahead of the main entry door. I'll get that looked at as one of my first test drives. Is there a web page that shows how to remove dash components? I want to check idiot light bulbs (door open is only one that lights, including brake and generator lights as far as I can tell) and my radio lights up but doesn't play and I want to see if the amp is fried- must remove first. Dash fan blows really low no matter the setting - switch or some resistor thingy likely?
Feel free to comment and suggest solutions on anything, but the brakes are the most welcome feedback at this point...
1975 Glenbrook, 1978 Royale rear bath
Raleigh, NC
|
|
|
|
GMCforum
Search
Help
Register
Login
Home
