| Re: [GMCnet] 115V Refrigerator Again? [message #201670] |
Thu, 14 March 2013 12:17 |
Dave
Messages: 32
Registered: March 2004
Karma:
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If it is blowing the fuse it is probably one of the transistors. If
it is buzzing (powering the compressor) but not cooling very well it
is likely one of the capacitors that controls the frequency. As the
cap's age they change value and cause the frequency to drift. The
swing motor will not work well if the frequency is too high or too
low. My experience is that these are the most common failures. If it
is doing something else it may require more detailed troubleshooting.
Other common failures that can be seen visually is a bad solder joint
or broken wire (caused by vibration while traveling) especially on
some of the tiny components or contamination and corrosion caused by
moisture (or mice). The circuit is reasonably simple so if you can
find someone with a bit of electronics experience they can probably
get it running again.
The number on the schematic is a part number but I am not sure what
it refers to.
At 04:27 PM 3/13/2013, Patrick Fitzmorris wrote:
>Dave,
>ah, that's good! Got some quick questions: is that number in the top left
>of the schematic a part number?
>And, do the transistors really need replacing, or would replacing the caps
>get it going again? Could it be that neither are bad, and it's just one of
>the relays got stuck? while it is 40 years old, my fridge doesn't have much
>use on it. the coach itself has only 62k miles, the genset 200 hours (so
>like 5hr/year). I figure the fridge is similarly under-used
>
>Mine's already wired up to 110v, and the problem is it runs on that just
>fine, but won't switch to 12v. Perhaps my 12v system's just not good
>enough? (it is marginal, the batteries go dead if I run the bathroom light
>for two hours while working on the plumbing)
>
>
>On Wed, Mar 13, 2013 at 5:32 AM, Dave <DaveM@mich.com> wrote:
>
> > At 02:35 AM 3/8/2013, Patrick Fitzmorris wrote:
> > >Bruce, if I could get a schematic for that board you made, that'd be
> > >pretty cool. Though, I may try resurrecting the original inverter.
> >
> > I posted the Norcold inverter schematic a while back:
> >
> >
> >
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/member-galleries/p20004-all-electric-norcold-c.html
> >
> > The OEM inverter board is pretty easy to refurbish. If you replace
> > the power transistors and the electrolytic capacitors it will usually
> > fix the board and keep it running long term.
> >
> > If you decide to use an external inverter there is no need to replace
> > the OEM transformer. The inverter board has a 110v input. No need to
> > rewire anything to use 110v. Mine did not have a power cord attached.
> > I added the power cord so I could use a cheap external inverter if I
> > ever have a failure again while I am on the road. It has been 20
> > years since I repaired the OEM inverter and I have never had to use
> > the 110v power cord.
> >
> >
> > Dave
> > Ann Arbor, MI.
> > 73 Sequoia (26'/455/EbH/RwI/ThH/HEI/TBI/160°/3.42/100A/Q55G)
> >
> >
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Dave
Ann Arbor, MI.
73 Sequoia (26'/455/EbH/RwI/ThH/HEI/TBI/160°/3.42/100A/Q55G)
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