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| [GMCnet] Power Steering Woes [message #200037] |
Tue, 26 February 2013 20:49  |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma:
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Well, I guess it's 'fess-up time: About a month ago, John Nicholls and I
had a learning session at my place. John had provided me with the steering
box from the Flat Bed some time before. I ordered a couple of rebuild kits
and we got together to learn how to overhaul one. John brought along
another spare for rebuilding also.
I won't go into the entire procedure, but will say that it was a pretty
easy job which took us most of two days. Mostly because we were learning
all the way, and fabricating a couple of simple tools. The kits I ordered
turned out to be the wrong ones, but most of the parts were correct except
for the input shaft seal, so we assembled with them. Later I ordered the
correct kit and installed the shaft seal. We really found nothing wrong in
the box, but felt better about having all new seals and O-rings. Most
importantly, we set the pre-loads correctly, and locked the input shaft on
the "high spot" using a copy of Dave Lenzi's tool (a 1/8" flat stock bent
to rest an edge on the flat of the input shaft when clamped down 90* away
with a tube flare nut).
A few days before this current trip, I removed the slightly sloppy steering
box from the GMC and installed that rebuilt box. The steering, even with
the 1-Ton front end, and I'd thought, tight steering, was much improved.
Until about 60 miles into this trip. 5 miles N. of Arlington, GA, the
steering suddenly became very stiff. I could still control the coach, but
with very high steering effort. Everything sounded OK, so I continued to
the first decent stopping location -- the wide main street of Arlington.
As soon as I rounded the front of the coach, I saw the problem: Power
steering fluid EVERYWHERE. OHMYGOSHWHATHAVEIDONE???
SHE: "Call the wrecker!" ME: "I ain't doin' that!" ...
Disconnecting the CRV, I drove a block to the local parts store (Yep,
Arlington, GA, pop 1459, has a pretty good one (lots of farmers to
support), and bought a couple of quarts of PS fluid. With the reservoir
refilled, I had her crank the engine while I watched the geyser of fluid
come out the top of the power steering box.
Nothing to do but remove the steering shaft, which was NO FUN! I probably
spent an hour at that. When I installed the box earlier, I did it with the
shaft attached, finding that easier than tightening the lower clamp when
it's in place. Now I suffered for that. That VERY tight bolt is in a
1/2-hand location and the job needs 3 hands. I have non-OEM obstructions
to contribute to the problem. Perhaps worst, my clamp bolt is not OEM.
The OEM bolt is a "carriage bolt" type -- a square section under its head
locks it in the clamp so only one wrench is needed to loosen/tighten it.
My one hand had a heck of a time holding two wrenches while loosening 70
ft-lb. Lock-grips were the only solution.
With the shaft moved to the side, it was obvious what the problem was: the
seal was just laying around the input shaft, not down in the recess in the
top of the box, retained by and internal C-clip. Whether I failed to
install it, put the wrong one in, didn't make sure it was properly seated,
or whatever, the C-clip was missing -- entirely MY fault, regardless.
The parts store didn't have a new seal, so we drove the 20 miles to
Blakely, GA, where I'd planned to have the now-due lunch anyway. After
lunch I went to the Chevrolet dealer (Blakely, pop. 5068 has one, Americus,
pop. 17,041 doesn't -- go figure!) where the very knowledgeable parts man
was very surprised to find the right kit for a 84 Chevy PU on the shelf
("We don't sell many of those any more -- everyone just puts on a new
pump). Then I pointed out that I had a steering BOX problem not a PUMP
problem. A few minutes later, he'd found a "much more frequently sold" top
seal ($31+).
Back at the coach, it was immediately obvious that the OD of the seal was
1/4" too big. Not wanting another delay, I decided to risk re-installing
the blown seal. So, I went back to the parts store and was surprised to
find that they have a large selection of C-clips, including one I could
stretch slightly to fit my steering box. With a new pair of retaining ring
pliers, my $0.68 C-clip, and a piece of PVC pipe for a seal driver, I went
back to work. About 45 minutes later, after another trip to the parts
store to replace the C-clip which grew wings and flew away, and after
giving up on the retaining ring pliers in favor of my electronics needle
nose pliers, the clip magically popped into place.
Back in Blakely, I returned the $31+ seal. (The correct one, Edelmann 7095
is $5.73 from RockAuto.) "OH, I figured since it was for a motorhome, I'd
give you the 3/4 ton truck version." :-(
So far, 150 miles later, there's no sign of any leakage from the seal.
I'll probably replace it and the C-clip with the 7095 when I get home.
Since I'll be replacing that darned 2-wrench bolt anyway! Provided I can
find the OEM style -- any ideas? Oh yeah -- I've got to pull the shaft
again anyway -- I managed to turn the wheel one spline in the process. :-((
Ken H.
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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