Re: [GMCnet] combiner question [message #167748] |
Fri, 27 April 2012 10:09  |
Gary Casey
 Messages: 448 Registered: September 2009
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I suppose I'm being simplistic, and I know I'm being cheap, but I was also worried about having the alternator output and voltage sense taps being on opposite sides of a diode. So I just threw away the diode and hard-wired the engine side together. I use the standard interconnect contactor to join the engine and coach batteries together, switched from the dash. I have a voltmeter that I can switch from the engine battery to the coach battery and I have a warning light to tell me the interconnect is on. I just turn on the interconnect after starting to charge the coach. Simple and foolproof - well, proof from all the fools except me.
Gary
Previously from Ken:
...
The point I'm trying to emphasize is that the existence of a good
alternator-to-chassis diode now has nothing to do with an hour from now --
it can fail even with the combiner in place, with no voltage applied, and
without any immediate indication until serious battery or other electrical
equipment damage has occurred.
Ken H.
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