| Furnace upgrade [message #67865] |
Sun, 20 December 2009 15:39  |
lance
Messages: 190
Registered: December 2004
Location: Vancouver, WA
Karma: 0
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I shoulda listened to you guys. I wanted to restore the original furnce in my 76 Palm Beach but you guys told me to buy a new one. Did I listen? No, I did not. I spent the best part of what a new furnce costs in repairing the old one. Clint at RV Pro made a valient effort but it lasted less than one chilly night. So, which furnace do you guys recommend? I'd prefer not to modify the outside vents unless There is no alternative. I'll be doing the R&R myself so ease of installation is a factor. I can use 110v heat until I can complete this job, so I won't freeze but dang, I shoulda listened. I'd be done now and only a little poorer. Thanks always.
Lance
1974 Palm Beach
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| Re: Furnace upgrade [message #67868 is a reply to message #67865] |
Sun, 20 December 2009 16:00  |
idrob
Messages: 645
Registered: January 2005
Location: Central Idaho
Karma: 0
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| lance wrote on Sun, 20 December 2009 13:39 |
I shoulda listened to you guys. I wanted to restore the original furnce in my 76 Palm Beach but you guys told me to buy a new one. Did I listen? No, I did not. I spent the best part of what a new furnce costs in repairing the old one. Clint at RV Pro made a valient effort but it lasted less than one chilly night. So, which furnace do you guys recommend? I'd prefer not to modify the outside vents unless There is no alternative. I'll be doing the R&R myself so ease of installation is a factor. I can use 110v heat until I can complete this job, so I won't freeze but dang, I shoulda listened. I'd be done now and only a little poorer. Thanks always.
Lance
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The Suburban NT series is the most common replacement I believe, but does need some modification in the vent pipes to install because of the curved wall. The alternative is to tilt the furnace some. The original capacity was in the 30 to 34,000 btuh range, but I believe a 24,000 would be fine, especially in a more mild climate. The smaller ones draw less 12 volt power, and are a bit quieter.
On my xpb (which I no longer own) the original vent outlet and inlet for the Sol Air were left in place and the hole covered up under the SS vent cover. The new Suburban vent was near by, and looked just fine with both in place, one out of service. A previous owner to me did the job, and it was good.
Some like Wally have put a new external access furnace in their coach. That requires a larger opening and a special mount for the curved sidewall. Wally has photos posted on the photo site. Look for Wally Anderson's photos.
Sorry you had to spend the money you did. It has been often said "the only good sol air furnace is a dead one". Guys have found that they are virtually impossible to repair effectively and are a safety issue due to leaking combustion chambers.
Rob Allen
former owner of '76 x-PB
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| Re: [GMCnet] Furnace upgrade [message #67873 is a reply to message #67865] |
Sun, 20 December 2009 16:30 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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Lance,
Here is some information on furnace installation.
http://gmcmotorhome.info/heat.html#solaire
J.R. Wright
>
>
> I shoulda listened to you guys. I wanted to restore the original
> furnace in my 76 Palm Beach but you guys told me to buy a new one.
> Did I listen? No, I did not. I spent the best part of what a new
> furnace costs in repairing the old one. Clint at RV Pro made a
> valiant effort but it lasted less than one chilly night. So, which
> furnace do you guys recommend? I'd prefer not to modify the outside
> vents unless There is no alternative. I'll be doing the R&R myself
> so ease of installation is a factor. I can use 110v heat until I can
> complete this job, so I won't freeze but dang, I shoulda listened.
> I'd be done now and only a little poorer. Thanks always.
>
> Lance
> --
> 1976 Palm Beach
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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| Re: Furnace upgrade [message #68190 is a reply to message #67865] |
Wed, 23 December 2009 18:31 |
Chr$
Messages: 2690
Registered: January 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Karma: 1
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NT models seem a bit pricy. SF models seem to be ideal. Anyone regret using a smaller unit like a 24,000 or 30,000 unit? I'm looking at the amp draw...
still considering the catalytic heaters...
Gonna buy a furnace and water heater this week.
-Chr$: Perpetual SmartAss
Scottsdale, AZ
77 Ex-Kingsley 455 SOLD!
2010 Nomad 24 Ft TT 390W PV W/MPPT, EV4010 and custom cargo door.
Photosite: Chrisc GMC:"It has Begun" TT: "The Other Woman"
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| Re: Furnace upgrade [message #68199 is a reply to message #68190] |
Wed, 23 December 2009 21:30 |
idrob
Messages: 645
Registered: January 2005
Location: Central Idaho
Karma: 0
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| Chr$ wrote on Wed, 23 December 2009 16:31 |
NT models seem a bit pricy. SF models seem to be ideal. Anyone regret using a smaller unit like a 24,000 or 30,000 unit? I'm looking at the amp draw...
still considering the catalytic heaters...
Gonna buy a furnace and water heater this week.
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Chris: I replaced a 35,000 btuh NT Suburban in an SOB (32' Airstream) motorhome with a 24,000 Btuh unit. One reason was the lower Amp draw. I used that down to 16F outside temp with no problems at all. The Airstream has 2" fiberglas insulation, with a lot of heat conducting through metal ribs between the inside and outside, as well as lots of glass.
I don't think you would have any problems with a 24,000 Btuh unit in the GMC. As far as I can see, the main issue with most all RV heating systems is the crappy duct work. Too few ducts, too high resistance in them. Put as many and as smooth and large ducts as you can in your renovation. Some short ones in the front may seem to take most of the air, leaving little for the rear, but in my experience heat in a unit the size of a GMC tends to distribute fairly well.
I have no experience with the SF line of Suburbans, so can make no comments on them. All Suburban furnaces seem to be overpriced to me, but there is little competition in the RV furnace market, and Suburban tends to dominate it.
Rob Allen
former owner of '76 x-PB
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| Re: Furnace upgrade [message #68350 is a reply to message #67865] |
Fri, 25 December 2009 14:17 |
Larry C
Messages: 1168
Registered: July 2004
Location: NE Illinois by the Illino...
Karma: 0
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I spent the best part of what a new furnce costs in repairing the old one. Clint at RV Pro made a valient effort but it lasted less than one chilly night.
________________________________________________________________
If you plan to dry camp in the boonies, I suggest getting a heater that uses no power. The furnaces draw up to 10 amps when the fan is on and will deplete the battery quick.
I used a blue flame heater, about 24,000 btu which brought the temp up in no time and had the ice on the roof melting to a water fall off the sides off the GMC.
There are also the catalytics to consider but I like to look at the flame.
Be aware there are safety rules of use of these types of heaters and you have to have ventilation, easily fixed with a window opened slightly and a vent in the roof opened.
Be sure to have a carbon Monoxide detector installed.
Some people will shut the heater down when they sleep.
The best part is you don't have to worry about depleating the battery.
West Marine sells a small powerless furnace type that uses a 1" dia chimney, its btu rating is low but there are no more issues than you would have with the normal furnace. I am sure there is something out there that can be considered, look around.
LarC ( Hates to have a dead battery because the furnace has to run for heat and looks at the options )
Gatsbys' CRUISER  08-18-04
74 GLACIER X, 260/455-APC-4 Bagg'r
Remflex Manifold gaskets
CampGrounds needed, Add yours to "PLACES" />
http://www.gmceast.com/travel
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| Re: [GMCnet] Furnace upgrade [message #68357 is a reply to message #68350] |
Fri, 25 December 2009 15:58 |
Steven Ferguson
Messages: 3447
Registered: May 2006
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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The Mr Heater has a built in O2 sensor. So do many of the WAVE
catalytic heaters. I have used a WAVE 6 extensively in the SOB and I
have suffered no ill effects effects effects effects..............
The way these things leak there's plenty of air.
On Fri, Dec 25, 2009 at 1:17 PM, Larry <slawrence111@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> I spent the best part of what a new furnce costs in repairing the old one. Clint at RV Pro made a valient effort but it lasted less than one chilly night.
> ________________________________________________________________
>
>
> If you plan to dry camp in the boonies, I suggest getting a heater that uses no power. The furnaces draw up to 10 amps when the fan is on and will deplete the battery quick.
>
> I used a blue flame heater, about 24,000 btu which brought the temp up in no time and had the ice on the roof melting to a water fall off the sides off the GMC.
>
> There are also the catalytics to consider but I like to look at the flame.
>
> Be aware there are safety rules of use of these types of heaters and you have to have ventilation, easily fixed with a window opened slightly and a vent in the roof opened.
>
> Be sure to have a carbon Monoxide detector installed.
>
> Some people will shut the heater down when they sleep.
>
> The best part is you don't have to worry about depleating the battery.
>
> West Marine sells a small powerless furnace type that uses a 1" dia chimney, its btu rating is low but there are no more issues than you would have with the normal furnace. I am sure there is something out there that can be considered, look around.
>
>
> LarC ( Hates to have a dead battery because the furnace has to run for heat and looks at the options )
>
>
>
> --
> Gatsbys' CRUISER :d
> 74 GLACIER X, 260
> 455/APC/4 bagg'r(ver3)
> Remflex Manifold gaskets
> _______________________________________________
> Purchased 08-18-04
>
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--
Steve Ferguson
'76 EII
Sierra Vista, AZ
Urethane bushing source
www.bdub.net/ferguson/
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