| Door recurving [message #67320] |
Sun, 13 December 2009 09:05  |
jwillard
Messages: 118
Registered: May 2004
Location: Silver City, NM
Karma: 0
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OK, I'm sitting here in the coach at my property in Pennsylvania hosting an "Open House". It's 33 degrees and raining... sort of, and I have a lot of time on my hands.
As I'm sitting here in the barrel chairs and the dogs are sleeping I'm seeing lots of light and water drips at the door. I apparently need a serious re-curve. Somewhere I remember seeing instructions for that but can't find them now.
Do you have to remove the window? I may do it anyway to restore the frame and get it tinted.
Jeff Willard
Silver City, NM
1973 ex-Glacier
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| Re: Door recurving [message #67326 is a reply to message #67320] |
Sun, 13 December 2009 09:34  |
Larry C
Messages: 1168
Registered: July 2004
Location: NE Illinois by the Illino...
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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I apparently need a serious re-curve. Somewhere I remember seeing instructions for that but can't find them now.
________________________________________________________________-
Have you checked to see WHY your door seems to have lost its shape?
In reality, it is difficult to think that a door built as sturdy as your door would lose its shape.
You need to do some checking first before you attempt to bend the door beyound its oem specks.
These old gals have a syndrome called "Old Age Spread".
This "spread" is caused by the additional weight of the air cons on the roof and the owners periodically going up to check things out. The sides of the coach will ever slowly, spread out from the sides, causing the door to look like it needs a recurve but actually you need to pull the sides of the coach back in.
You can recurve the door but the coach will continue to bulge out and you will have to correct the sides sometime anyway.
try to get a measurement from the rear and front of the coach and compare to the mid section.
Try to measure the ceiling height from the front/ rear and mid section.
Do you bath doors hit the cabinet across the hall?
All a dead sign that the "Old Age Spread" has taken its toll.
LarC ( Thinking the drip guard over the door will stop the drips till spring when the sides can be pulled back in )
Gatsbys' CRUISER  08-18-04
74 GLACIER X, 260/455-APC-4 Bagg'r
Remflex Manifold gaskets
CampGrounds needed, Add yours to "PLACES" />
http://www.gmceast.com/travel
_
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| Re: [GMCnet] Door recurving [message #67328 is a reply to message #67320] |
Sun, 13 December 2009 09:32 |
GMCWiperMan
Messages: 1248
Registered: December 2007
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Jeff,
I think Dan WInchester has photos on GMCMHPhotos. But the procedure is so
simple that I can describe it: In the door near the top and bottom of the
latch side, drill a 3/8" hole. In a 2x4 long enough to reach between the
two holes, drill 3/8" holes through the 4" dimension to line up with the
door holes. Either buy, or make from 5/16" all-thread rod, J-hooks to fit
into the door holes and through the 2x4, washers, and nuts. At the vertical
center of the 2x4 place a small bottle jack between the 2x4 and a protective
pad on the door. Jack in the curvature you want. Do it in stages so you
don't get too much curve.
I have some Ziebart plastic plugs which neatly seal the holes in the door
but they're very unobtrusive even if open.
You don't need to remove the window.
Worked really well for me several years ago and hasn't needed repeating.
After you've done that, get a new Bill Bramlett-designed striker from Burt &
Faye Curtis and you'll think you've got a new Cadillac door on there.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Sun, Dec 13, 2009 at 10:05 AM, Jeff Willard <jwillard@oac-inc.com> wrote:
>
>
> OK, I'm sitting here in the coach at my property in Pennsylvania hosting an
> "Open House". It's 33 degrees and raining... sort of, and I have a lot of
> time on my hands.
>
> As I'm sitting here in the barrel chairs and the dogs are sleeping I'm
> seeing lots of light and water drips at the door. I apparently need a
> serious re-curve. Somewhere I remember seeing instructions for that but
> can't find them now.
>
> Do you have to remove the window? I may do it anyway to restore the frame
> and get it tinted.
> --
>
>
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| Re: Door recurving [message #67334 is a reply to message #67320] |
Sun, 13 December 2009 10:18 |
George Beckman
Messages: 1085
Registered: October 2008
Location: Colfax, CA
Karma: 11
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Senior Member |
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| jwillard wrote on Sun, 13 December 2009 07:05 |
I'm seeing lots of light and water drips at the door. I apparently need a serious re-curve. Somewhere I remember seeing instructions for that but can't find them now.
Do you have to remove the window? I may do it anyway to restore the frame and get it tinted.
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Before Emery Stora left the forum, I am "think" I heard him say something about considering taking the sag out of the coach. It may have been something I heard him say at Pueblo. I was not sure if he was describing how hard it is to recurve a door, or if there really is a way of taking the bulge out of a coach. Makes me see high tensile wires running back an forth, inside with jacks prying up the ceiling. *smile*
Here is actually how he does it, "Middle Age Spread":
http://gmcmotorhome.info/spread.html
'74 Eleganza, SE, Howell + EBL
Best Wishes,
George
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| Re: [GMCnet] Door recurving [message #67338 is a reply to message #67333] |
Sun, 13 December 2009 11:29 |
Gary Casey
Messages: 448
Registered: September 2009
Karma: 0
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The people on this list are great - every time I read about a new subject a light bulb goes on - "oh yeah, I've got that problem!" I was looking in the refrigerator bay and the roof vent (was that original or added?) was cut in the area of a transverse roof beam. They cut right through the beam to make the vent, even thought they could have avoided it. I'm wondering how or if I should repair the structural damage. And, of course, the bathroom door hits the cabinet on the other side. There is also about a 1-inch gap between the cabinet and the wall. Yet another project....
Gary
________________________________
From: Norm Bowker <bowks43@rogers.com>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Sun, December 13, 2009 9:06:10 AM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Door recurving
How about young age spread. The 3 year old EL2 with 20,000 mi. I bought in 1979 had this problem. The bath door hit on the drawers. With the fridge out I pulled the wall back with a come-along & 2 x 4's thru the kitchen window & a jack pushed the cabinet out & L bracketed to the ribs. Was still O.K. when I sold it 5 years later. The cabinet should have been attached more solid from the factory.
Norm
These old gals have a syndrome called "Old Age Spread".
This "spread" is caused by the additional weight of the air cons on the roof and the owners periodically going up to check things out. The sides of the coach will ever slowly, spread out from the sides, causing the door to look like it needs a recurve but actually you need to pull the sides of the coach back in.
You can recurve the door but the coach will continue to bulge out and you will have to correct the sides sometime anyway.
try to get a measurement from the rear and front of the coach and compare to the mid section.
Try to measure the ceiling height from the front/ rear and mid section.
Do you bath doors hit the cabinet across the hall?
All a dead sign that the "Old Age Spread" has taken its toll.
LarC ( Thinking the drip guard over the door will stop the drips till spring when the sides can be pulled back in )
--
Gatsbys' CRUISER :d
74 GLACIER X, 260
455/APC/4 bagg'r(ver3)
Remflex Manifold gaskets
_______________________________________________
Purchased 08-18-04
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| Re: [GMCnet] Door recurving [message #67339 is a reply to message #67337] |
Sun, 13 December 2009 11:48 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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I saw that , I tried weather seal at westmarine, but I don't know if that
was the one or not....... hard to keep up
gene
On Sun, Dec 13, 2009 at 8:44 AM, Charles <gcw13@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Door Weather Seal
> Here is a source for the box seal around the door
>
> http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/commerce/command/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=201&prrfnbr=103322&outlet=
> http://diymarine.com/diypages/weatherseal.asp
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mr.erf ERFisher" <mr.erfisher@gmail.com>
> To: <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
> Sent: Sunday, December 13, 2009 9:48 AM
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Door recurving
>
>
> >
> > Have you checked to see WHY your door seems to have lost its shape?
> >
> >
> if you want the whole enchilada, look here
> http://users.sfo.com/~eagle/spread.html<http://users.sfo.com/%7Eeagle/spread.html>
>
> gene
>
>
> --
> Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
> “Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
> -------
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/
> Alternator Protection Cable
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
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>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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| Re: Door recurving [message #67346 is a reply to message #67334] |
Sun, 13 December 2009 14:18 |
jwillard
Messages: 118
Registered: May 2004
Location: Silver City, NM
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Does anyone know the original dimensions for width and height at a particular location? I'm thinking that pulling it back in and then supporting the roof with something other than chip board cabinetry would be the trick.
A also looked at the pages for pulling in the sides. Since I don't have a Kitchen window that opens, how about taking the furnace out and using those vent holes for the left side 2x4's and cable? Thoughts?
Jeff Willard
Silver City, NM
1973 ex-Glacier
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| Re: Door recurving [message #67348 is a reply to message #67320] |
Sun, 13 December 2009 15:01 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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If you are going anywhere near Jim Bounds (GMCCOOP) in Florida, stop and see him. He can brute force re-curve that door in less than 10 minutes. I have watched him do it at GMC rallies.
After watching him, I did mine and then I replaced the gasket. Mine was not far off before I started. If yours is only slightly off you might get by replacing the gasket.
No the window does not have to be removed to re-curve it.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: Door recurving [message #67349 is a reply to message #67346] |
Sun, 13 December 2009 16:07 |
bryant374
Messages: 563
Registered: May 2004
Location: Pleasant Valley, NY 12569
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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>>
jwillard
Does anyone know the original dimensions for width and height at a particular location? I'm thinking that pulling it back in and then supporting the roof with something other than chip board cabinetry would be the trick.
>>
See following link for design dimensions.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=31975
Bill Bryant
PO 1976~PB (owned 34 years)
1914 Ford (owned 70 years)
1965 Corvette (owned 39 years)
GMC Motorhome History
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| Re: Door recurving [message #67352 is a reply to message #67346] |
Sun, 13 December 2009 17:56 |
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mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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| jwillard wrote on Sun, 13 December 2009 12:18 |
... A also looked at the pages for pulling in the sides. Since I don't have a Kitchen window that opens, how about taking the furnace out and using those vent holes for the left side 2x4's and cable? Thoughts?
|
You can push in one side at a time from the outside:
- Find a good solid object to push against and park close to it.
- Place wood spreader bar and a length of 4x4 between the belt-line and your solid object.
- Deflate (slowly) the airbag on that side to lean the coach into your object -- until the side has been pushed in enough to fasten it like the instructions on the web.
Worked for me.
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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