| Intake Manifold [message #66651] |
Fri, 04 December 2009 20:02  |
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ljdavick
Messages: 3548
Registered: March 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Karma: -3
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Senior Member |
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I'll be replacing the intake manifold gaskets soon with the blocking plates. Has this been documented anywhere?
It looks like I'll need to drain some coolant, but will I have to remove the Distributor, or will the manifold slip out under it?
I plan to replace all of the bolts, but are there any studs, or just a bunch of bolts?
Could someone recommend a good electric choke for the carb, and the best place to wire it?
This would be a good exercise if I ever switch to the aluminum manifold. I just wretch every time I turn off the engine - all that hot air making good alcohol evaporate.
Sounds like my bar when friends are over...
Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy
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| Re: Intake Manifold [message #66656 is a reply to message #66651] |
Fri, 04 December 2009 20:27  |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| ljdavick wrote on Fri, 04 December 2009 20:02 |
I'll be replacing the intake manifold gaskets soon with the blocking plates. Has this been documented anywhere?
It looks like I'll need to drain some coolant, but will I have to remove the Distributor, or will the manifold slip out under it?
I plan to replace all of the bolts, but are there any studs, or just a bunch of bolts?
Could someone recommend a good electric choke for the carb, and the best place to wire it?
This would be a good exercise if I ever switch to the aluminum manifold. I just wretch every time I turn off the engine - all that hot air making good alcohol evaporate.
Sounds like my bar when friends are over...
|
You can get a stainless set of bolts for that manifold on ebay. I was afraid to torque down stainless bolts so I just went to TSC and bought grade 8 bolts by the pound. The electric choke is available for NAPA or Carquest. I am not home so I do not have the numbers right now. The choke draws slightly less than 2 amps so if you have an HEI distributor you can get power for the choke right off of the +12 going to the HEI. If you have a points type of distributor you will have to run a wire up front and attach it on the +12 volts side of the ignition resistor. There were one or two studs mounted in the manifold used for mounting accessories that you probably want to reuse. I used stainless bolts to mount the carburetor, the heat tube blocking plate, and the thermostat housing. I'm also a believer in anti-seize, so every bolt got a touch of anti-seize.
I removed the distributor just to get it out of the way. I do not know if it is possible to do it with the distributor installed.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Intake Manifold [message #66677 is a reply to message #66651] |
Fri, 04 December 2009 22:58 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Larry,
I followed the Maintenance Manual when I took mine off.
Order your gaskets directly from Dick Paterson by phone and get him to walk
you through the procedure.
Some pointers:
1) The cast iron manifold is HEAVY and it probably will be "glued" to the
heads / valley. I took a thin putty knife and tapped it in between the
manifold and heads at all four corners to loosen it up. Then I bolted a
chain to the carb bolts and stood directly over it and lifted straight up
when I pulled mine. If you're on your knees behind it you could strain your
back lifting it off.
2) Try and remove it as gently as possible so that the minimum amount of the
crap that gets baked on to the bottom of the intake falls off into the
engine.
3) If there is a turkey tray under the manifold the same goes for that as
there will be a lot of crap baked to the bottom of that too! I had to repeat
the putty knife in the corner bit too.
4) Use a shop vac to vacuum up the stuff that falls off the bottom of the
turkey tray into the valley.
5) Five will get you ten that you'll find the manifold cracked; at the very
least between the secondaries. Have it sand blasted and manafluxed to make
sure it isn't.
6) Cut the heads off two 3/8" bolts and screw them into the front and rear
bolt holes on either the right or left head. They will guide you straight
down when you re-install the manifold.
7) Use black silicone for the valley seals. Apply a reasonable sized bead
and let it skin over. Then lower the manifold STRAIGHT DOWN. DO NOT MOVE IT
AROUND AS THAT WILL SQUISH THE SILICONE SEALER OUT.
8) If your manifold is not cracked and you install blockoff plates you won't
need to change to the aluminum manifold as there is nothing to gain by doing
so. Well that's not 100% correct as you would save a few pounds but at $600
for the aluminum manifold that a costly exercise.
9) Rick Denny says "The NAPA 2-1603 that Michael has is excellent, and I
prefer it to any manual choke. It uses an electronic sensor bolted under an
intake bolt to detect engine heat. It fits over the thermostat can on the
carb and actuates the choke spring directly. It works better than the stock
thermostat and MUCH better than the electric heater. It applies choke when
the engine is cold and doesn't apply it when it is hot, including backing
off the high idle cam smoothly." That's what I used but they ain't cheap
though!
Regards,
Rob Mueller
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion-The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion-Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Larry Davick
Sent: Saturday, 5 December 2009 1:02 PM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: [GMCnet] Intake Manifold
I'll be replacing the intake manifold gaskets soon with the blocking plates.
Has this been documented anywhere?
It looks like I'll need to drain some coolant, but will I have to remove the
Distributor, or will the manifold slip out under it?
I plan to replace all of the bolts, but are there any studs, or just a bunch
of bolts?
Could someone recommend a good electric choke for the carb, and the best
place to wire it?
This would be a good exercise if I ever switch to the aluminum manifold. I
just wretch every time I turn off the engine - all that hot air making good
alcohol evaporate.
Sounds like my bar when friends are over...
--
Larry Davick
The Mystery Machine
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Intake Manifold [message #66686 is a reply to message #66677] |
Fri, 04 December 2009 23:50 |
Rick Denney
Messages: 430
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Rob Mueller writes...
> Order your gaskets directly from Dick Paterson by phone and get him to walk
> you through the procedure.
Particularly how and where to put silicone sealer.
...
> 5) Five will get you ten that you'll find the manifold cracked; at the very
> least between the secondaries. Have it sand blasted and manafluxed to make
> sure it isn't.
Maybe not. My iron manifold had a hairline crack in the wall between
the two plenums, but it takes a crack through the crossover into the
lifter gallery to really cause a problem.
> 6) Cut the heads off two 3/8" bolts and screw them into the front and rear
> bolt holes on either the right or left head. They will guide you straight
> down when you re-install the manifold.
One will work, but don't put it in the hole that lines up to the slot
on the iron manifold, it it won't help.
> 7) Use black silicone for the valley seals. Apply a reasonable sized bead
> and let it skin over. Then lower the manifold STRAIGHT DOWN. DO NOT MOVE IT
> AROUND AS THAT WILL SQUISH THE SILICONE SEALER OUT.
I used orange silicon--it doesn't matter as long as it's the high-temp
stuff and not the blue plain gasket sealer.
Make sure those end gap surfaces are clean. I used brake cleaner
sprayed on a cotton cloth to degrease the surface fully. That silicone
really needs to stick. The silicon bead will work far better than the
rubber gasket that comes with some gasket kits (not the gaskets from
Dick P.). If you are installing a new manifold (which I know you
aren't at this time), then before gluing anything down, dry-fit the
manifold on the dry gaksets and use a mirror to inspect those end
gaps. They should be in the 1/8"-3/16" range, but less will work as
long as they don't touch. It won't be an issue if you reuse your
current manifold. Make sure the beads of silicon are bigger than those
gaps or they won't seal.
After bolting it down, let it sit overnight to allow that silicone to
cure befor stressing it with heat expansion, splash oil, and crankcase
pressure.
> 9) Rick Denny says "The NAPA 2-1603 that Michael has is excellent, and I
> prefer it to any manual choke. It uses an electronic sensor bolted under an
> intake bolt to detect engine heat. It fits over the thermostat can on the
> carb and actuates the choke spring directly. It works better than the stock
> thermostat and MUCH better than the electric heater. It applies choke when
> the engine is cold and doesn't apply it when it is hot, including backing
> off the high idle cam smoothly." That's what I used but they ain't cheap
> though!
Here it is:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=CRB21603_0177793591
No, it's not cheap. But it sure does work well.
Rick "who put the sensor under the right, rear intake manifold bolt"
Denney
'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
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'73 Glacier 230 "Jaws"
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| Re: [GMCnet] Intake Manifold [message #66690 is a reply to message #66686] |
Sat, 05 December 2009 00:50 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| Rick Denney wrote on Fri, 04 December 2009 23:50 |
Rob Mueller writes...
> Order your gaskets directly from Dick Paterson by phone and get him to walk
> you through the procedure.
Particularly how and where to put silicone sealer.
|
There is a sheet of paper packed with the block off kit showing where to put the added sealer. Basically it is around the water ports and along the bottom lengthwise on the gasket.
I have the page in my coach but I have no way of digitizing it and posting it.
Ken B.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Intake Manifold [message #66696 is a reply to message #66651] |
Sat, 05 December 2009 06:12 |
Steven Ferguson
Messages: 3447
Registered: May 2006
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Somewhere in here is a series of photos that should help you:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=3100
You must pull the distributer.
All bolts
Here's the info on the choke:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=3364
Wire it to a "keyed" contact on the fuse panel behind the glove box
On Fri, Dec 4, 2009 at 7:02 PM, Larry Davick <ljdavick@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> I'll be replacing the intake manifold gaskets soon with the blocking plates. Has this been documented anywhere?
>
> It looks like I'll need to drain some coolant, but will I have to remove the Distributor, or will the manifold slip out under it?
>
> I plan to replace all of the bolts, but are there any studs, or just a bunch of bolts?
>
> Could someone recommend a good electric choke for the carb, and the best place to wire it?
>
> This would be a good exercise if I ever switch to the aluminum manifold. I just wretch every time I turn off the engine - all that hot air making good alcohol evaporate.
>
> Sounds like my bar when friends are over...
> --
> Larry Davick
> The Mystery Machine
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Steve Ferguson
'76 EII
Sierra Vista, AZ
Urethane bushing source
www.bdub.net/ferguson/
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| Re: [GMCnet] Intake Manifold [message #66700 is a reply to message #66686] |
Sat, 05 December 2009 06:46 |
GMCWiperMan
Messages: 1248
Registered: December 2007
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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On Sat, Dec 5, 2009 at 12:50 AM, Rick Denney <rick@rickdenney.com> wrote:
> Rob Mueller writes...
> ...
>
> > 6) Cut the heads off two 3/8" bolts and screw them into the front and
> rear
> > bolt holes on either the right or left head. They will guide you straight
> > down when you re-install the manifold.
>
> One will work, but don't put it in the hole that lines up to the slot
> on the iron manifold, it it won't help.
>
>
Don't wait until you're ready to do final assembly, with the gaskets & RTV
in place before doing a test fit. If your guide studs are too long and on
both sides, the manifold won't go over them. Make them short, with
screwdriver slots, or only put them on one side.
Ken H.
>
>
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