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Black tank basics [message #61486] Sat, 24 October 2009 17:44 Go to next message
Dennis S is currently offline  Dennis S   United States
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
Senior Member
I have never worked on the plumbing system of an RV and I need help and advice on my plans for repairing the black tank on my 73, 23ft, with side bath.

The tank inlets for the shower drain and the kitchen/bath sinks were welded to the tank top, but both had developed cracks and weld failures. I have removed these fittings and the tank has developed cracks in the web between the inlets.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=31250
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=31260

I have drizzled Loctite Plastic Adhesive (says it works for polypropelene) into the cracks and am letting it dry. If it does not hold I was considering gluing on a thin plastic patch or finding a plastic welder to make a repair.

A local RV dealer had rubber fittings which I understand are used for attaching drain line to holding tanks so I plan to insert those in the existing holes.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=31259
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=31261

Plastic 1 1/2" pipe inserts into the rubber grommets and from there I thought I would use rubber plumbing fittings from Lowe's to attach to the existing drain pipe.

Does all this seem reasonable?

What do you do with the Thetford dump valve? Does this get replaced if I eventually go to a macerator?

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=31251

Thanks,
Dennis


Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
Re: [GMCnet] Black tank basics [message #61491 is a reply to message #61486] Sat, 24 October 2009 18:29 Go to previous messageGo to next message
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
Senior Member
G'day Dennis,

I've put some comments in CAPS below.

Regards,
Rob Mueller
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion-The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion-Double Trouble TZE365V100426


-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Dennis Sexton
Sent: Sunday, 25 October 2009 9:45 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: [GMCnet] Black tank basics

I have never worked on the plumbing system of an RV and I need help and
advice on my plans for repairing the black tank on my 73, 23ft, with side
bath.

The tank inlets for the shower drain and the kitchen/bath sinks were welded
to the tank top, but both had developed cracks and weld failures. I have
removed these fittings and the tank has developed cracks in the web between
the inlets.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=31250
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=31260

I have drizzled Loctite Plastic Adhesive (says it works for polypropelene)
into the cracks and am letting it dry. If it does not hold I was considering
gluing on a thin plastic patch or finding a plastic welder to make a repair.

EVEN IF THE LOCKTITE DOESN'T HOLD I'D SUGGEST MAKING UP A DOUBLER AND USING
3M-5200 TO GLUE IT IN PLACE. THAT WAY YOU KNOW ITS' FIXED AND WILL STAY
FIXED!

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=28384

A local RV dealer had rubber fittings which I understand are used for
attaching drain line to holding tanks so I plan to insert those in the
existing holes.

JOHN SHARPE USED THESE FITTINGS TO PLUMB IN THE NEW BLACK TANK IN HIS ROYALE
AND THEY WORKED FINE. HOWEVER, THE CONDITION OF THE TOP OF YOUR TANK WHERE
THEY WILL BE INSERTED DOESN'T LOOK TOO GOOD; IT MIGHT BE A GOOD IDEA TO GLUE
THEM IN WITH 3M-5200.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=31259
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=31261

Plastic 1 1/2" pipe inserts into the rubber grommets and from there I
thought I would use rubber plumbing fittings from Lowe's to attach to the
existing drain pipe.

Does all this seem reasonable?

What do you do with the Thetford dump valve? Does this get replaced if I
eventually go to a macerator?

DEPENDS ON HOW YOU WANT TO PLUMB IN THE MACERATOR. I WOULD NOT DO AWAY WITH
THE 3" DRAIN, HOWEVER; HERE'S WHY! WHEN I WAS GETTING DOUBLE TROUBLE READY
TO PUT IN STORAGE I NEEDED TO DUMP THE BLACK TANK (OBVIOUSLY). WHEN I PULLED
THE HANDLE THE SHAFT THAT CONNECTS TO THE SLIDE VALVE IN THE 3" DUMP VALVE
PULLED OUT OF THE SLIDE COMPLETELY WITH THE VALVE OPEN. I LOOKED UP UNDER
THE COACH AND NOTED THAT THERE WAS A STREAM OF WASTE WATER SQUIRTING OUT OF
THE HOLE WHERE THE SHAFT WAS. I HAD TO USE THE 3" DUMP SYSTEM TO EMPTY THE
TANK.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=31251

Thanks,
Dennis
--
Dennis Sexton
73 Painted Desert 230
Germantown, TN
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Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: [GMCnet] Black tank basics [message #61505 is a reply to message #61486] Sat, 24 October 2009 19:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Mr ERFisher is currently offline  Mr ERFisher   United States
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
Senior Member
buy a new tank

gene





--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
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Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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Re: Black tank basics [message #61508 is a reply to message #61486] Sat, 24 October 2009 20:09 Go to previous messageGo to next message
WD0AFQ is currently offline  WD0AFQ   United States
Messages: 7111
Registered: November 2004
Location: Dexter, Mo.
Karma: 207
Senior Member
Dennis, I am with Gene, call Jim K for a price on a new one.
Dan


3 In Stainless Exhaust Headers One Ton All Discs/Reaction Arm 355 FD/Quad Bag/Alum Radiator Manny Tran/New eng. Holley EFI/10 Tire Air Monitoring System Solarized Coach/Upgraded Windows Satelite TV/On Demand Hot Water/3Way Refer
Re: [GMCnet] Black tank basics [message #61513 is a reply to message #61491] Sat, 24 October 2009 20:57 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Dennis S is currently offline  Dennis S   United States
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
Senior Member

Rob,
Thank you for the input.
I have located 3M 5200 at the local Ace Hardware for $20 a tube. Also have a quote request in to local plastic welder.
As for the doubler on the top -- it would need to be larger in diameter than the inlets to allow the new rubber grommets to fit -- the groove is only as wide as the current tank thickness.

Regards,
Dennis

Dennis Sexton
73 GMC 230
Germantown, TN


G'day Dennis,
I've put some comments in CAPS below.
Regards,
ob Mueller
ydney, Australia
US '75 Avion-The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
SA '75 Avion-Double Trouble TZE365V100426

-----Original Message-----
rom: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Dennis Sexton
ent: Sunday, 25 October 2009 9:45 AM
o: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
ubject: [GMCnet] Black tank basics
I have never worked on the plumbing system of an RV and I need help and
dvice on my plans for repairing the black tank on my 73, 23ft, with side
ath.
The tank inlets for the shower drain and the kitchen/bath sinks were welded
o the tank top, but both had developed cracks and weld failures. I have
emoved these fittings and the tank has developed cracks in the web between
he inlets.






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Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
Re: Black tank basics [message #61514 is a reply to message #61486] Sat, 24 October 2009 21:14 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
Senior Member
I looked at your pictures. It looks definitely weldable. Several years ago I had mine welded in two different places. I have had no problems since then. It cost me $25.00 to have it done.

I recommend you try welding it.


Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Re: [GMCnet] Black tank basics [message #61515 is a reply to message #61508] Sat, 24 October 2009 21:10 Go to previous messageGo to next message
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
Senior Member
Dennis,

Gene and Dan have a point, however, a new tank is going to cost you two /
three hundred bucks by the time you get it to Memphis.

It's not going to cost you much in time, effort, or money to:

1) sand the top of the tank with very rough sand paper to remove all traces
of old glue
2) clean the surface with Acetone or MEK
3) fill the gap in the rubber fittings with 3M-5200 and install them in the
tank
4) remove any excess 3M-5200 that is around the fittings on the top of the
tank
5) make a doubler out of 1/8" - 1/4" thick plastic that extends about 2
inches beyond the outermost diameter of both holes leaving a gap 1/8" or so
around each rubber fitting
6) coat the bottom of the doubler completely with 3M-5200 and fit it over
the two fittings
7) fill the gap around the rubber fittings with 3M-5200

Since the repair is on top of the tank it will only be subject to waste
sloshing around and no real pressure.

The doublers I put on the bottom of my tank are plugging two cuts; one that
is 3" long and the other is 5" long. To make sure they got sealed I widened
them from thin cracks to about 1/8" wide or so in order to pump some 3M-5200
in them to fill them just before I fitted the doublers. To date they haven't
dripped one bit.

Regards,
Rob Mueller
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion-The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion-Double Trouble TZE365V100426


-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Dan Gregg
Sent: Sunday, 25 October 2009 12:09 PM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Black tank basics



Dennis, I am with Gene, call Jim K for a price on a new one.
Dan
--
Dan & Teri Gregg

danandteri.blogspot.com



///Halon Automatic Fire Extinguishers
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Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: [GMCnet] Black tank basics [message #61516 is a reply to message #61513] Sat, 24 October 2009 21:12 Go to previous messageGo to next message
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
Senior Member
Dennis,

This came in as I sent you the detailed version of my suggested fix!

Regards,
Rob Mueller
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion-The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion-Double Trouble TZE365V100426


-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of dennisfsexton@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, 25 October 2009 12:57 PM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Black tank basics


Rob,
Thank you for the input.
I have located 3M 5200 at the local Ace Hardware for $20 a tube. Also have a
quote request in to local plastic welder.
As for the doubler on the top -- it would need to be larger in diameter than
the inlets to allow the new rubber grommets to fit -- the groove is only as
wide as the current tank thickness.

Regards,
Dennis

Dennis Sexton
73 GMC 230
Germantown, TN


G'day Dennis,
I've put some comments in CAPS below.
Regards,
ob Mueller
ydney, Australia
US '75 Avion-The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
SA '75 Avion-Double Trouble TZE365V100426

-----Original Message-----
rom: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Dennis Sexton
ent: Sunday, 25 October 2009 9:45 AM
o: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
ubject: [GMCnet] Black tank basics
I have never worked on the plumbing system of an RV and I need help and
dvice on my plans for repairing the black tank on my 73, 23ft, with side
ath.
The tank inlets for the shower drain and the kitchen/bath sinks were welded
o the tank top, but both had developed cracks and weld failures. I have
emoved these fittings and the tank has developed cracks in the web between
he inlets.






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GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist

_______________________________________________
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List Information and Subscription Options:
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Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: [GMCnet] Black tank basics [message #61519 is a reply to message #61516] Sat, 24 October 2009 21:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
WD0AFQ is currently offline  WD0AFQ   United States
Messages: 7111
Registered: November 2004
Location: Dexter, Mo.
Karma: 207
Senior Member
I wish yall lived closer to me. I think I could learn a few things and save a few bux. Smile
Dan


3 In Stainless Exhaust Headers One Ton All Discs/Reaction Arm 355 FD/Quad Bag/Alum Radiator Manny Tran/New eng. Holley EFI/10 Tire Air Monitoring System Solarized Coach/Upgraded Windows Satelite TV/On Demand Hot Water/3Way Refer
Re: [GMCnet] Black tank basics [message #61528 is a reply to message #61514] Sun, 25 October 2009 03:29 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Tin Gerbil is currently offline  Tin Gerbil   United States
Messages: 236
Registered: October 2006
Location: Vancouver Island, B.C.
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Ken;
I scarfed the old fittings off with a Skilsaw and had new ones spun
welled on with a router for the galley sink drain and the toilet drain.
The outlet fitting was cracked and I had it welded up. That was 2.5
years ago and I have no leaks. Total $40.
Gordon

Ken Burton wrote:
>
> I looked at your pictures. It looks definitely weldable. Several
> years ago I had mine welded in two different places. I have had no
> problems since then. It cost me $25.00 to have it done.
>
> I recommend you try welding it.
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Gordon '74 Canyon Lands "Tin Gerbil" Vancouver Island, B.C.
Re: [GMCnet] Black tank basics [message #61569 is a reply to message #61486] Sun, 25 October 2009 11:39 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jerry Holloway is currently offline  Jerry Holloway   United States
Messages: 4
Registered: March 2004
Karma: 0
Junior Member
Use abs cement and fiberglas on black plastic tanks. I have used that combo
to replace a fitting that was broken off completly.

Jerry
77 E2
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Sexton" <dennisfsexton@aol.com>
To: <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 6:44 PM
Subject: [GMCnet] Black tank basics


>
>
> I have never worked on the plumbing system of an RV and I need help and
> advice on my plans for repairing the black tank on my 73, 23ft, with side
> bath.
>
> The tank inlets for the shower drain and the kitchen/bath sinks were
> welded to the tank top, but both had developed cracks and weld failures. I
> have removed these fittings and the tank has developed cracks in the web
> between the inlets.
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=31250
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=31260
>
> I have drizzled Loctite Plastic Adhesive (says it works for polypropelene)
> into the cracks and am letting it dry. If it does not hold I was
> considering gluing on a thin plastic patch or finding a plastic welder to
> make a repair.
>
> A local RV dealer had rubber fittings which I understand are used for
> attaching drain line to holding tanks so I plan to insert those in the
> existing holes.
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=31259
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=31261
>
> Plastic 1 1/2" pipe inserts into the rubber grommets and from there I
> thought I would use rubber plumbing fittings from Lowe's to attach to the
> existing drain pipe.
>
> Does all this seem reasonable?
>
> What do you do with the Thetford dump valve? Does this get replaced if I
> eventually go to a macerator?
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=31251
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> --
> Dennis Sexton
> 73 Painted Desert 230
> Germantown, TN
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist

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Re: [GMCnet] Black tank basics [message #61574 is a reply to message #61528] Sun, 25 October 2009 12:25 Go to previous messageGo to next message
comcast is currently offline  comcast   United States
Messages: 604
Registered: August 2009
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Get the fitting solid then go with a flexible rubber coupling from the
tank to piping. Works for me.

Roger Black
Burns, TN
77 Birchaven SB



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Re: [GMCnet] Black tank basics [message #61579 is a reply to message #61569] Sun, 25 October 2009 13:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Tin Gerbil is currently offline  Tin Gerbil   United States
Messages: 236
Registered: October 2006
Location: Vancouver Island, B.C.
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Jerry;
I cut strips off the waist of my cotton "T" shirt and cemented a poly
pipe on to a tank with 3000 live salmon in it using RTV and a propane
torch to set it off at -10*F. In a panic, any fix that holds is a good
one. My retired high school chemistry teacher made up a good poly glue
using di-methyl something and acetone to dissolve poly chips 40 years
ago. Now 3M has an excellent poly glue available at Home Depot, why not
use it? The local sewer surgeon purchased a can last week, glued some
poly pipe to PVC, let it set overnight and then beat it to death with a
hammer. IT WORKS WELL!
Gordon

Jerry Holloway wrote:
> Use abs cement and fiberglas on black plastic tanks. I have used that combo
> to replace a fitting that was broken off completly.
>
> Jerry
> 77 E2
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Gordon '74 Canyon Lands "Tin Gerbil" Vancouver Island, B.C.
Re: [GMCnet] Black tank basics [message #61582 is a reply to message #61569] Sun, 25 October 2009 13:32 Go to previous messageGo to next message
emerystora is currently offline  emerystora   United States
Messages: 4442
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 13
Senior Member

On Oct 25, 2009, at 10:39 AM, Jerry Holloway wrote:

> Use abs cement and fiberglas on black plastic tanks. I have used
> that combo
> to replace a fitting that was broken off completly.
>
> Jerry


It will hold for a while if the tank is roughened up but if you get a
sharp knife blade under the edge of the ABS you will find that it will
peel off as it does not dissolve into the surface of the polypropylene.
It could hold for years though if you are lucky.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM


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Re: [GMCnet] Black tank basics [message #61584 is a reply to message #61579] Sun, 25 October 2009 13:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Dennis S is currently offline  Dennis S   United States
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
Senior Member

Gordon,
Do you have the name or number of the 3M product your plumber used?
I looked for 8005 but no one seems to stock it locally.

Thanks,
Dennis


Dennis Sexton
73 GMC
Germantown, TN
USA


-----Original Message-----
From: The Tin Gerbil, Ad Nauseum <wizwing@telus.net>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Sun, Oct 25, 2009 1:19 pm
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Black tank basics



Jerry;
cut strips off the waist of my cotton "T" shirt and cemented a poly
ipe on to a tank with 3000 live salmon in it using RTV and a propane
orch to set it off at -10*F. In a panic, any fix that holds is a good
ne. My retired high school chemistry teacher made up a good poly glue
sing di-methyl something and acetone to dissolve poly chips 40 years
go. Now 3M has an excellent poly glue available at Home Depot, why not
se it? The local sewer surgeon purchased a can last week, glued some
oly pipe to PVC, let it set overnight and then beat it to death with a
ammer. IT WORKS WELL!
ordon
Jerry Holloway wrote:
Use abs cement and fiberglas on black plastic tanks. I have used that combo
to replace a fitting that was broken off completly.

Jerry
77 E2
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Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
Re: [GMCnet] Black tank basics [message #61598 is a reply to message #61574] Sun, 25 October 2009 16:01 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Tin Gerbil is currently offline  Tin Gerbil   United States
Messages: 236
Registered: October 2006
Location: Vancouver Island, B.C.
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Roger;
Isn't that the standard method on all GMC's?
Behind this rubber coupling I have a 4" dia. 12" long, expansion joint
one foot back from the tank. It is pulled out half it's travel, so in
the event of a minor rear end collision, the dump valve, tank and pipe
will not be crushed. It eliminates all the pressure on the welded
flange on the tank. This is a $9.00 joint they use in the vent stack of
2+ floor buildings. It allows my solid ABS which turns and runs parallel
to the bumper, to rotate down toward the drain. It is held up
completely out of the way during travel by two bungie cords. We have to
be very careful with the design of our sewer pipe because we have a
sharp drop on and off the ferry ramp every time we leave the island. I
think I will improve the system that holds it up will some SS chain.
Gordon

Roger Black wrote:
> Get the fitting solid then go with a flexible rubber coupling from the
> tank to piping. Works for me.
>
> Roger Black
> Burns, TN
> 77 Birchaven SB
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Gordon '74 Canyon Lands "Tin Gerbil" Vancouver Island, B.C.
Re: Black tank basics [message #61609 is a reply to message #61486] Sun, 25 October 2009 17:10 Go to previous message
rgleas is currently offline  rgleas   United States
Messages: 48
Registered: May 2009
Location: Tulsa, Ok.
Karma: 0
Member
I had a crack under one of the braces when I brought my coach along with the fresh water tank had cracked at a seam.

I brought a new tank from Jim K. it was a very easy replacement the only difficult part was laying out the holes in the top of the tank. I hate dealing with the black wate so for me I just did not want to have to fix this problem again.

I then welded both the fresh water and the black water tanks figuring I would have a spare if anyone needed it. The fresh water tank is still full of water since I wanted to test the weld. The black water tank cracked back open along the original crack.

Bottom line I do not regret purchasing a new tank.
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