Part # for 100amp Alternator [message #370672] |
Mon, 10 October 2022 18:04  |
Larry
 Messages: 2875 Registered: January 2004 Location: Menomonie, WI
Karma: 10
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Just went to "Search" and got a blank page. Looked at GMC Motorhome information, and GMCMI parts exchange. neither had working part # for the 100 amp alternator. Anybody have a part # for the 100 amp alternator?
Thanks
Larry 
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
[Updated on: Mon, 10 October 2022 18:05] Report message to a moderator
|
|
|
Re: Part # for 100amp Alternator [message #370686 is a reply to message #370672] |
Wed, 12 October 2022 09:18   |
Russell K.
 Messages: 178 Registered: October 2016 Location: Dunedin, Florida
Karma: 4
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Hi Larry,
Both the
The Duralast Alternator DL7157 (from Autozone)
and the Remy 20136
are 100 amp 27si alternators.
I've used both.
Russell
1978 Eleganza II, Dunedin, Florida
|
|
|
|
Re: Part # for 100amp Alternator [message #370695 is a reply to message #370672] |
Thu, 13 October 2022 07:11   |
jhbridges
 Messages: 8412 Registered: May 2011 Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
|
Senior Member |
|
|
If it's original, I'd rebuild or have it rebuilt.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
|
|
|
Re: Part # for 100amp Alternator [message #370696 is a reply to message #370695] |
Thu, 13 October 2022 08:19   |
 |
Matt Colie
 Messages: 8547 Registered: March 2007 Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Were I in your place, I would not work too hard for a 100amp alternator. It might not get you a lot. If you can do it with little cost/effort, it might be worth it.
For the later 26' with the house bank in the rear, the line loss at high current will do a job on trying to recover the house bank underway. You have to understand that the life of your "12 VOLT" battery is really between 11.9 and 12.6 volts. You really can't use more than about 14.4 at the battery no matter what. To get that 14.4 all the way to the back from all the way in the front, you will have to start out with a whole lot more than the roughly 15.0 that the alternators are supposed to deliver. A run-away 27SI will make 18Volts and it only takes about 16.2 to burn out every incandescent light bulb you own. (Unregulated LEDs left long before that.)
Even if you were upsize the main run to the rear that was installed as #0SAE wire (90% of the AWG), the other side is through the frame and such and you will still take about 0.5VDC beating getting to the bank (there goes your big charge).
I discovered all this when I was trying to find out why I could not recover the house bank from the converter even with my new Progressive Dynamics 9145 with Wizard. Nothing I tried could get the rate of charge over about 30amps at the best. This was frustrating because in the process of trying to diagnose my alternator belt problems, I measured (really measure like with a Bell Current probe and a Fluke 87) a charge current of 98+..... (If you did not know, the power limit of a V-belt our size is about 100 amps at 15V - that is about 2hp.)
When working about the converter problem, I actually tried a #0 welding cable from the converter to the bank only to find that I still did not get to the charge rate I wanted because the voltage loss on the negative side rose up to bite my ass.....
As you may have surmised, this was a very frustrating time because we regularly (pre-plague) would dry camp for 4 days at the Dulcimer Festival in Evart. With electric refrigeration in July, a full house bank was good for about 36 hours. When I would fire the Onan for 4 hours and only get the bank to half (by density), I set out to discover why this was. It was the distance and the lack of copper as noted above. So, I added a Pd9260 and the passengers right ankle. Now 4 hours gets us to 90%.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
|
|
|
Re: Part # for 100amp Alternator [message #370697 is a reply to message #370672] |
Thu, 13 October 2022 09:49   |
Tom Katzenberger
 Messages: 399 Registered: June 2019 Location: Kingsville, MD
Karma: 4
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Larry,
I've had 3 GMC alternators rebuilt and converted from 80 amp to 100 amp alternators by a local company near me, P&H Auto Electric. They have been doing rebuilds for my company vehicles for many years and I have had great results. I prefer the rebuilds because they have been checked thru and also, I haven't had great luck with new anything anymore. Too much new stuff comes out of the box not working as it should.
Good luck,
Tom K.
Tom & Oki Katzenberger,
Kingsville, Maryland,
1977 23' Birchaven, 455 C.I.D., Micro Level, Howell EBL-EFI Spark Control, Macerator, York Air Compressor, 6 Wheel Disc, Quadra Bag, Onan W/Bovee Ignition
|
|
|
Re: Part # for 100amp Alternator [message #370699 is a reply to message #370697] |
Fri, 14 October 2022 14:48  |
Carl S.
 Messages: 4186 Registered: January 2009 Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
|
Senior Member |

|
|
I just had two alternators rebuilt, an 80 amp and a 100 amp. The rebuilder provided test data which showed that while the 100 amp (of course) delivered a higher peak output, the 80 amp delivered more amps at a lower RPM. I'm not really sure there is an advantage to running a 100 amp alternator over an 80 amp.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
|
|
|