| engine/trans removal instructions? Drop the front? [message #360318] |
Fri, 27 November 2020 19:27  |
hertfordnc
Messages: 1164
Registered: September 2009
Location: East NC
Karma: 0
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Per my other post, the trans is probably toast- at the very least it cannot be trusted for a long trip.
At the moment i'm getting over COVID, after that i have a home renovation to finish and then we'll move but eventually, I'll have the time and the space.
I can't find good instructions or video.
I once helped remove a front clip out the bottom. That to me seems like the preferred method but it seems most people go with a cherry picker out the door.
What's the consensus?
Dave & Ellen Silva
Hertford, NC
76 Birchaven, 1-ton and other stuff
Currently planning the Great american Road Trip Summer 2021
It's gonna take a lot of Adderall to get this thing right.
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| Re: engine/trans removal instructions? Drop the front? [message #360321 is a reply to message #360318] |
Fri, 27 November 2020 20:29  |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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hertfordnc wrote on Fri, 27 November 2020 20:27Per my other post, the trans is probably toast- at the very least it cannot be trusted for a long trip.
At the moment i'm getting over COVID, after that i have a home renovation to finish and then we'll move but eventually, I'll have the time and the space.
I can't find good instructions or video.
I once helped remove a front clip out the bottom. That to me seems like the preferred method but it seems most people go with a cherry picker out the door.
What's the consensus?
Dave:
Unfortunately for me, I have some direct experience here that I would love to share.
CV of TZE relative:
Removed repaired and reinstalled transmission - August 2010
Removed and reinstalled front frame to rebuild the main engine - September 2017
Removed then replaced the front frame because the original was bent - October 2018
Now that is clear, the transmission can come out the bottom pretty easily. If you look up KenH's transmission lifter it might be even easier.
I found it!!! http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5741-th425-lifting-device.html
It was actually not that terrible but I had a big issue in not getting the coach high enough because my barn's ceiling was a hard limit. This was cleared by lifting it off the dolly I had lowered it onto and substituting the dolly for a piece of scrap plywood that I dragged out from under the coach.
You will have to rig lifting gear to do the let-down and lift-up because the location and weight are most likely past a man's capability.
I my case, I got it down, did what it needed and put it back up. The most difficult part of going back up was getting the torque converter to stay where it was supposed to be so nothing got damaged when the engine and transmission were re-mated.
Others may be better to tell you if with or without the final drive is better, but mine was on both down and up.
I wish you the best of luck.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: engine/trans removal instructions? Drop the front? [message #360322 is a reply to message #360321] |
Fri, 27 November 2020 20:53 |
hertfordnc
Messages: 1164
Registered: September 2009
Location: East NC
Karma: 0
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Matt Colie wrote on Fri, 27 November 2020 20:29
It was actually not that terrible but I had a big issue in not getting the coach high enough because my barn's ceiling was a hard limit. This was cleared by lifting it off the dolly I had lowered it onto and substituting the dolly for a piece of scrap plywood that I dragged out from under the coach.
You will have to rig lifting gear to do the let-down and lift-up because the location and weight are most likely past a man's capability.
THat's a revelation, i did not think the trans could be dropped without the engine. Much more managable.
Dave & Ellen Silva
Hertford, NC
76 Birchaven, 1-ton and other stuff
Currently planning the Great american Road Trip Summer 2021
It's gonna take a lot of Adderall to get this thing right.
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| Re: engine/trans removal instructions? Drop the front? [message #360323 is a reply to message #360322] |
Fri, 27 November 2020 21:10 |
lqqkatjon
Messages: 2324
Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
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I had access
To a hoist. Had transmission out and on stand in just over an hour. Installed in a couple hours.
I would guess doing that wrenching on a creeper would quadruple that time. Once transmission is loose. It drops straight down. If doing it on a creeper it
Might be easier to leave final attached. It takes some careful care
To get the tranny to mount up square to both engine and final drive.
You don't have to pull engine to remove tranny.
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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| Re: engine/trans removal instructions? Drop the front? [message #360325 is a reply to message #360318] |
Sat, 28 November 2020 04:59 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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I have pulled my trans 3 times. Once on a hoist with the final drive attached. Once on the floor without the final, and once on the same floor that I got my daughter and her then current boyfriend to do it while I supervised. The last time she dropped the trans and then dropped the final drive separately because I wanted to also work on it.
I like just dropping the trans by itself. It took 1.5 hours to drop it. It was an easy job with the fender liners removed. It took two of us about 2.5 hours to install the repaired one. It took the longest when I supervised two mechanically experienced people that knew nothing about a GMC. That added 1/2 to 1 hour to both the removal and replacement.
My daughter volunteered to do it again if ever necessary but it really takes two people to install it. Originally she and I were suppose to do it until she enlisted her boy friend. I saw Manny do it once by himself in a rally parking spot. I know of one that was changed by two people on a paved shoulder along side of the road. I have always just used my floor jack to remove and drop it and reinstall them.
As far as the torque converter goes on reinstallation just take about 3 feet of safety wire or bailing wire and run it across the face of the torque converter. Then tie it off to the trans (bell housing) mounting holes. Install the trans and leave about 1/8 inch space to the engine. Cut the ends and pull the wire(s) out and tighten the mounting bolts. I run two wires across it.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] engine/trans removal instructions? Drop the front? [message #360327 is a reply to message #360325] |
Sat, 28 November 2020 06:43 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Having R&R'd the transmission more times than I can recall, I'd suggest one
GMC modification to make the process simpler: The upper left (driver's
side) bell housing bolt is a real "booger" to R&R. Manny can do it
"instantly" with a 3/8" air ratchet, but I've spent as much time with that
one bolt as on the rest of the transmission removal/installation. To
eliminate that problem, I how have a 1-1/2" hole in the cockpit step riser
in line with that bolt. The carpet and a small aluminum cover usually seal
that hole. To R&R the hidden bolt, I reveal the hole, then use a 9/16"
socket on a 6" extension. The bolt comes out and goes in (usually after
all the others are in place) almost instantaneously.
Biggest problem is locating the hole. I had the transmission out when I
"built" mine, so I drilled through the riser with a long bit through the
bell housing hole. I won't give out the location dimensions because the
reference locations are too concealed/variable to be reliable.
Oh yeah: I usually pull the transmission and final drive together. My
lifting device doesn't much care whether they're together or not. I
suspend the transmission with a hoist mounted on the GMC manual illustrated
gantry. Manny has a much smaller, simpler one which only services the
transmission. Here it is, courtesy of Emery Stora:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5215-transmission-lift-structure.html
Ken H.
On Sat, Nov 28, 2020 at 5:59 AM Ken Burton via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> I have pulled my trans 3 times. Once on a hoist with the final drive
> attached. Once on the floor without the final, and once on the same floor
> that I
> got my daughter and her then current boyfriend to do it while I
> supervised. The last time she dropped the trans and then dropped the final
> drive
> separately because I wanted to also work on it.
>
> I like just dropping the trans by itself. It took 1.5 hours to drop it.
> It was an easy job with the fender liners removed. It took two of us about
> 2.5 hours to install the repaired one. It took the longest when I
> supervised two mechanically experienced people that knew nothing about a
> GMC. That
> added 1/2 to 1 hour to both the removal and replacement.
>
> My daughter volunteered to do it again if ever necessary but it really
> takes two people to install it. Originally she and I were suppose to do it
> until she enlisted her boy friend. I saw Manny do it once by himself in a
> rally parking spot. I know of one that was changed by two people on a
> paved shoulder along side of the road. I have always just used my floor
> jack to remove and drop it and reinstall them.
>
> As far as the torque converter goes on reinstallation just take about 3
> feet of safety wire or bailing wire and run it across the face of the torque
> converter. Then tie it off to the trans (bell housing) mounting holes.
> Install the trans and leave about 1/8 inch space to the engine. Cut the
> ends
> and pull the wire(s) out and tighten the mounting bolts. I run two wires
> across it.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: engine/trans removal instructions? Drop the front? [message #360330 is a reply to message #360318] |
Sat, 28 November 2020 08:51 |
Larry
Messages: 2875
Registered: January 2004
Location: Menomonie, WI
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Like Ken H, I have had mine and other transmissions out more times than I WANT to remember. I think I’ve done four transmissions now in parking lots. So, a couple of tips.
1. Use these pictures to make sure the torque converter is fully in position relative to the face of the bell housing.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/transmission-install/p3825.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/transmission-install/p3794.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/transmission-install/p3795.html
Failure to do this and the trans won’t pull up to the engine. You will find yourself dropping the trans to get the converter right. Don’t skip the *wire in place* step. I’ve seen the converter move forward while just moving the trans into place under the coach.
2. Look at this for lifting the motorhome high enough to slide the trans in and out with a floor jack.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/transmission-install/p3796.html
3. When installing the trans, my motto is “The slower you go, the faster you go”. Take your time putting that thing up there. Look at how it is lining up, change the alignment and move it a little. Look at it again, and move it a little to get the two surfaces parallel. Using a longer bolt than is needed, get one bolt in. Realign and move. Look at it again. Make sure it is parallel and moving toward the alignment pins. Realign ….get the idea? A little at a time and suddenly “CLUNK” it’s in!!
4. Ken Is right, that upper LH bolt is a SOB!! Drill that hole that he suggests. Sure makes it easy.
Larry 
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
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| Re: engine/trans removal instructions? Drop the front? [message #360343 is a reply to message #360318] |
Sat, 28 November 2020 17:37 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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Three timnes - maybe four, I forget. Anyway out the bottom onto a piece of plywood. Slide it frontwards and if you tip it and work it under the final drive and crossmember you don't havr to lift the coach too high. I leave the final drive in the coach, just loosen the big front bolt somit has a bit of give in it. Ken's lifter and a chain fall on a crosspiece above makes it relatively easy. As someone noted, wire the converter in place. Also loosen the rear bolts which holed the rear mount in place so it tips. You'll have about an inch clearance front and back. One of the nuts on the final drive is not a lot of fun to gety on - many leave it off - but it's doable with a box end wrench. One slow pint at a time.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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