| About to get a cheap starter [message #358600] |
Mon, 14 September 2020 07:40  |
hertfordnc
Messages: 1164
Registered: September 2009
Location: East NC
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So in another thread about the right alternator i had a side conversation with Matt in which he said:
"Our starters are specific to the 425 transmission and that have been out of production for 40 years. The dangerous thing about them is that they were really too robust. They keep trying to work when they should have given up. This means that when they finally quit, they are long past quick "get you home" fixes. When they do start to have trouble (take this as serious advice), they behave just like that bad electrical connection in the starter circuit that you have been meaning to look after but she usually cranks for you. Right up until she doesn't."
He was clairvoyant. I think that exact thing was happening at that moment. I am just now bringing this coach out of mothballs. In that situation you can't tell is something is really broken or if it's just like most of us, a little stiff.
SO it was randomly not starting and i was chasing battery connections until finally it would not start at all. Big click, solenoid is warm. Pretty sure it's the starter.
I'm going with a cheap reman from autozone because i want it NOW.
Anything i should know?
Dave & Ellen Silva
Hertford, NC
76 Birchaven, 1-ton and other stuff
Currently planning the Great american Road Trip Summer 2021
It's gonna take a lot of Adderall to get this thing right.
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| Re: About to get a cheap starter [message #358603 is a reply to message #358600] |
Mon, 14 September 2020 08:18  |
kstockwell
Messages: 367
Registered: May 2016
Location: Putney VT
Karma: 4
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i put in a rebuilt starter from autozone (or some such place). Not sure why you'd refer to it as cheap... are you not getting the right size?
I think I paid $90 after I got my core charge back. I ordered it, and then brought mine in to make sure it was the same size.
Used a floor jack to get it up into place, replaced the electrical line to the battery switch. It took a long time to die- I thought there was something wrong for a year or more; usually ended up flooding the carb trying to start; now it's great.
1978 Kingsley
Putney VT
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| Re: About to get a cheap starter [message #358617 is a reply to message #358608] |
Mon, 14 September 2020 12:28 |
hertfordnc
Messages: 1164
Registered: September 2009
Location: East NC
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Feel free to share anything else you think i should know.
I have a three ton floor jack and a hydraulic high lift jack that came with the coach. It's parked on grass.
I don't need to be told to use jack stands.
any other tips?
Dave & Ellen Silva
Hertford, NC
76 Birchaven, 1-ton and other stuff
Currently planning the Great american Road Trip Summer 2021
It's gonna take a lot of Adderall to get this thing right.
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| Re: About to get a cheap starter [message #358620 is a reply to message #358617] |
Mon, 14 September 2020 13:14 |
mghamms
Messages: 466
Registered: March 2016
Location: Ware, Massachusetts
Karma: 2
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check napa in stock at all my local stores $109 $50 core charge
nos delco 323-362 on ebay 200 no core charge
ebay and amazon have a deso for $200 core charge anyone try it?
1977 Kingsley 455 as stock as it gets except lots of Ragusa parts
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| Re: [GMCnet] About to get a cheap starter [message #358624 is a reply to message #358620] |
Mon, 14 September 2020 14:20 |
Dave Stragand
Messages: 307
Registered: October 2017
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With my 1968 Cadillac RWD starter, I kept cracking the very thin
aluminum castings on the reproduction nosecones, until I finally wised
up and swapped the original, thicker nosecone onto a rebuilt starter.
Would that be a possible solution for a replacement? Swapping a the
TH425 FWD nosecone onto a RWD 403/455 starter? Would be easy to just
carry that nosecone instead of a whole starter as a spare... or are
there other differences that would prevent that kind of swap?
-Dave
1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@list.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Mike
Hamm via Gmclist
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 2:15 PM
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Cc: Mike Hamm
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] About to get a cheap starter
check napa in stock at all my local stores $109 $50 core charge
nos delco 323-362 on ebay 200 no core charge
ebay and amazon have a deso for $200 core charge anyone try it?
--
1977 Kingsley 455 as stock as it gets except lots of Ragusa parts
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1978 Transmode (403)
Pittsburgh, PA
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| Re: About to get a cheap starter [message #358630 is a reply to message #358617] |
Mon, 14 September 2020 17:47 |
kstockwell
Messages: 367
Registered: May 2016
Location: Putney VT
Karma: 4
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Can you drive onto ramps?
Pull the passenger wheel liner out, then you can wiggle in (over the tire) and reach down to a lot of it (wear a headlamp). I think i used the jack under the starter, and took out the bolts from that vantage point.
Putting the new one in was a mix of under and through the wheel. You know to jack up from the middle (not the sides); I went a bit at a time, and kept adding wood blocks under the frame.
I broke the solenoid cover (ceramic?) trying to get the wire off it- just ran new lines to that.
Just saw the post about secret cutoff switch to the starter solenoid- you could add that as a theft deterrent.
Be excited for the first start with only a few seconds!
-kelly
hertfordnc wrote on Mon, 14 September 2020 13:28Feel free to share anything else you think i should know.
I have a three ton floor jack and a hydraulic high lift jack that came with the coach. It's parked on grass.
I don't need to be told to use jack stands.
any other tips?
1978 Kingsley
Putney VT
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| Re: About to get a cheap starter [message #358638 is a reply to message #358630] |
Mon, 14 September 2020 18:58 |
hertfordnc
Messages: 1164
Registered: September 2009
Location: East NC
Karma: 0
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I can't drive on ramps unless i can get it started. I might consider pulling onto a ramp with my truck.
Dave & Ellen Silva
Hertford, NC
76 Birchaven, 1-ton and other stuff
Currently planning the Great american Road Trip Summer 2021
It's gonna take a lot of Adderall to get this thing right.
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| Re: About to get a cheap starter [message #358644 is a reply to message #358630] |
Mon, 14 September 2020 19:13 |
Bullitthead
Messages: 1411
Registered: November 2013
Karma: 5
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Keep the antique core if it is not beyond you to repair or have as parts. And as a rule, I always keep the core until AFTER success with the newly acquired part.
Terry Kelpien
ASE Master Technician
73 Glacier 260
Smithfield, Va.
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| Re: About to get a cheap starter [message #358646 is a reply to message #358638] |
Mon, 14 September 2020 19:29 |
Bullitthead
Messages: 1411
Registered: November 2013
Karma: 5
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Through the fender is best.Taking the fenderwell out only takes me about 3 minutes on the GMC. If you jack the CONTROL ARM on that side just until the frame starts to rise and then put your jackstands in front and rear of the axle ON THE FRAME, you can then take that wheel off and it will easy liner removal and replacement, and easy access to the starter. Be sure the stands are on at least 2X boards, not just dirt and thin plywood. Do not remove the jack under the control arm without having the tire installed. Disconnect the battery right after you remove the fender liner.
Terry Kelpien
ASE Master Technician
73 Glacier 260
Smithfield, Va.
[Updated on: Mon, 14 September 2020 19:30] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] About to get a cheap starter [message #358703 is a reply to message #358650] |
Wed, 16 September 2020 19:11 |
powwerjon
Messages: 849
Registered: March 2013
Karma: -2
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The starter that fits our coaches is a Lester Starter#3629 unit which is an industrial standard. I was in Ozark, AL staying at a campground for our first stop on the way home from Titusville, FL. One in our group was having issues with his lower A-arm Hex. While we were looking for some parts we were driving down a business street and saw a sign that stated Starter and Alternators rebuilt. I needed to get a new starter and we stopped and when in to inquire about getting one for the road. Typical small town shop with a little clutter and not well lit. Explained what I wanted and he said I know what you want. He built it from scratch pulling parts of the shelves and explaining what he was building. The starter motor is different from the one used on the Toronado and Eldo. He said that the car version only had one lead coming out of the starter motor going to the solenoid. The HD version has 2 leads attached to the solenoid. That is his story and I am sticking to it. I just went out and looked at the spare in the parts cabinet and it does has the 2 leads to the back of the solenoid. I was always told that the GMC starter has the square windings inside the motor, don’t know where I heard that at but the old guy said it was true.
I have always felt that you should get your starter rebuild and a local rebuilder and not get one from the big box autoparts stores. You can find starter for cheap, but you get what you pay for. I know what I am getting when my local guy down the road does one for me.
JR Wright
Michigan
> On Sep 14, 2020, at 9:38 PM, Larry via Gmclist wrote:
>
> One of these starters came up on eBay two yrs ago. At the time I was having troubles with hot start, so decided to try it. Have not had a hot start
> issue since.
>
> https://www.partsgeek.com/gyzwfl5-oldsmobile-toronado-starter.html?gb=pp&cid=28884375&aid=4168799401&kid=1100003049199&msclkid=6e55fc5 5fe141c1ac2f4a335e7dc1857&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping%28BSC%29&utm_term=1100003049199&utm_content=Oldsmob ile&
>
> Do a "powermaster starter oldsmobile tornado" search. Quite a few choices there.JWID
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
>
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