Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Changing belts trick
Changing belts trick [message #354627] |
Mon, 11 May 2020 20:30 |
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RF_Burns
Messages: 2277 Registered: June 2008 Location: S. Ontario, Canada
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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The belts on The Murray go back to 2008 and before so I thought I'd change them since I had new ones on hand. I found the split in the metal ring at the bottom of the horse collar made it very easy to slip the belt past the fan blades. I didn't need to remove the fan like other have written.
But doing it from underneath in the shop is far nicer than doing it on the road sometime. I was thinking if I could turn the metal ring so the split was at the top I could do it from inside if I had a belt failure on the road. Has anyone done this already?... before I go to the trouble of unbolting this thing and finding out I've overlooked something.
Thanks
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC. 1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
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Re: Changing belts trick [message #354629 is a reply to message #354627] |
Mon, 11 May 2020 20:42 |
lqqkatjon
Messages: 2324 Registered: October 2010 Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
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Bruce- i was just messing with belts on mine. (Added belt to A/C compressor and tightened the 1 year old belts that settled in for alternator and power steerimg)
4 nuts on the fan clutch to the water pump only took me a few
Moments. (After I spent about time inside and underneath
messing with horse collar trying to get a belt
Over a blade
Of my plastic
Fan)
So after
Sundays exercise,
My future process will be to take the fan off again, put belts in placw
And put the fan clutch back on.
I really need
To get
Myself a spare set of belts on board to assure I never need them.
My other lesson was I am glad my wheel well liners are still in the shed. I think
i would
Pull those
Too if trying to mess with belts on the road. That power steering bracket is a mess of bolts that I prefer
To go after
From side and bottom.
I also chop sawed off
A prybar that fits perfect
To tighten the power steering pully. Middle size craftsman prybar.
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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Re: Changing belts trick [message #354632 is a reply to message #354627] |
Mon, 11 May 2020 22:12 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030 Registered: January 2004 Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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I got rid of that horse collar years ago. That was one of the best improvements I ever did to my coach.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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Re: Changing belts trick [message #354637 is a reply to message #354627] |
Tue, 12 May 2020 09:08 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547 Registered: March 2007 Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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I used to have a problem, well two actually. This is only about the belts, other things aside.
There was no way to get a belt past the fan blades anywhere in this coach. If I was to loosen fasteners for the horse collar, I still could not do it. My horse collar did not have the space that Bruce mentioned, but 73s are different. I even tried with the GatorBack belt hoping the notches would allow it - Nope. So, you loosen the four on the waterpump drive and let the fan forward. I grew to hate the "ship-in-a-bottle" front dress.
Before I found out that the alternator could peak over 100amps (the Hp limit of a single V-belt) I had to change them so frequently that I looked tie one in. (Lycoming people know about this.) But, I could never figure out how to do it without risk. As nearly as I can tell, this problem is only chronic with a 100 amp alternator in a coach with the house bank in the front. After a day of dry camping, I would even idle the engine for too long in the hope of by passing the high charge load.
Here is where I tell you that I don't have this problem these days (when I do get to take Chaumière somewhere). The biggest change was the MB fan mod. With the cut away two piece fan shroud, there is lots of room to loop a belt over the fan. I also changed to a double sheave on the alternator so, even at 100+amps for the short time it exists, the belt doesn't blow up.
Matt - Hunkered down and waiting for the storm to blow over
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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Re: [GMCnet] Changing belts trick [message #354650 is a reply to message #354637] |
Tue, 12 May 2020 13:26 |
Brent Hinrichs
Messages: 4 Registered: June 2018
Karma: 1
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Junior Member |
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Okay, dumb request but still on the topic...I think. I just started my GMC
up after being winterized for 4 months. The belts squealed and then just
broke apart, all of them at once. Full disclosure, something was squealing
last year before winterizing.
So now I have no reference to the belt configuration. I realize it is
pretty straight forward but does anyone have a belt diagram or a what goes
where reference for a 1978 GMC Royale 26' 403...? Thanks
Best Regards,
Brent Hinrichs
1978 GMC Royale 26' 403
Tulalip, WA
On Tue, May 12, 2020 at 7:09 AM Matt Colie via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> I used to have a problem, well two actually. This is only about the
> belts, other things aside.
>
> There was no way to get a belt past the fan blades anywhere in this
> coach. If I was to loosen fasteners for the horse collar, I still could
> not do
> it. My horse collar did not have the space that Bruce mentioned, but 73s
> are different. I even tried with the GatorBack belt hoping the notches
> would allow it - Nope. So, you loosen the four on the waterpump drive and
> let the fan forward. I grew to hate the "ship-in-a-bottle" front dress.
>
> Before I found out that the alternator could peak over 100amps (the Hp
> limit of a single V-belt) I had to change them so frequently that I looked
> tie
> one in. (Lycoming people know about this.) But, I could never figure out
> how to do it without risk. As nearly as I can tell, this problem is only
> chronic with a 100 amp alternator in a coach with the house bank in the
> front. After a day of dry camping, I would even idle the engine for too
> long
> in the hope of by passing the high charge load.
>
> Here is where I tell you that I don't have this problem these days (when I
> do get to take Chaumière somewhere). The biggest change was the MB fan
> mod. With the cut away two piece fan shroud, there is lots of room to
> loop a belt over the fan. I also changed to a double sheave on the
> alternator
> so, even at 100+amps for the short time it exists, the belt doesn't blow
> up.
>
> Matt - Hunkered down and waiting for the storm to blow over
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Re: Changing belts trick [message #354667 is a reply to message #354633] |
Wed, 13 May 2020 00:17 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030 Registered: January 2004 Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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It is really pretty simple. 3 belts:
One goes over the crank, water pump, power steering, and alternator.
One goes over the crank, water pump, and power steering.
One goes over the crank, water pump, and AC compressor.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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Re: [GMCnet] Changing belts trick [message #354673 is a reply to message #354667] |
Wed, 13 May 2020 05:58 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726 Registered: March 2004 Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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I sure do pity all of you still running V-belts. Early on with the 455, I
installed the JR Slaten/Bobby Moore serpentine belt setup, with a couple of
my own mods. I never had another moment's trouble with belts for maybe 50K
miles (and still going after 82K). When I installed the Cad 500, I spent
hours sitting looking at the front of it before figuring out a simple
2-serpentine arrangement for it. A little adaptation of mostly Ford
pulleys got it working -- perfectly for the past 60-70K miles.
If I had access to an uninstalled 455/403, I'm still convinced that I could
figure out a simple serpentine system for them. The biggest problem used
to be the need for a reverse-flow water pump (Leigh Harrison designed and
prototyped a too-expensive one, for which I tried a couple of catastrophic
prototypes). But now we know about the diesel water pump which apparently
works well. That problem is why I use 2 belts on the Cad -- and would
seriously consider for the Olds because it opens so many other
possibilities and keeps the standard flow pump. Somebody should figure out
a $100 mod. :-)
JWID,
Ken H.
On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 1:17 AM Ken Burton via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> It is really pretty simple. 3 belts:
> One goes over the crank, water pump, power steering, and alternator.
> One goes over the crank, water pump, and power steering.
> One goes over the crank, water pump, and AC compressor.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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