Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Oil dipstick tube (Replacement)
| Oil dipstick tube [message #349157] |
Thu, 10 October 2019 23:20  |
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Samuel Ferguson
Messages: 107
Registered: September 2019
Location: Pittsfield, Illinois
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Where would I be able to find a replacement oil dipstick tube?
Just need the bottom section.
Samuel Ferguson
Summer Hill, Illinois
(West Central Illinois)
1976 GMC Palm Beach
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| Re: Oil dipstick tube [message #349163 is a reply to message #349157] |
Fri, 11 October 2019 08:10  |
lqqkatjon
Messages: 2324
Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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GMC venders should have this part. I have gotten them from Sirum, and applied also has them. if you get the correct one, it is pretty easy to change and fits just right. Should have a little ridge as a stop where it goes into the block.
remove the old one with a small slide hammer. and I have a little tool fabricated to tap the new one back down into the block. It is a nut, with a 1/4" round rod welded on to it. I rounded the back of the nut off a little bit, so it has a little more clearance between the block and the tube. and it slides over the new dipstick tube and butts up to that flange, and then I can easily tap the tube right down into place.
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil dipstick tube [message #349177 is a reply to message #349163] |
Sat, 12 October 2019 05:19 |
Rich Kinas
Messages: 113
Registered: July 2019
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Has anyone ever tried to swap out the lower tube section without removing
the exhaust manifold? I need to swap out my lower section ( I have a new
lower section), but that center bolt in the exhaust manifolds just will not
budge and I am afraid I will break it off if I really get on it. I did
purchase new copper exhaust manifold gaskets in preparation for
reinstalling and would really like to use them and have unobstructed access
to the block when installing the lower dipstick tube but....that stupid
bolt! Also I like to make sure my coach is always drive-able so I can move
it around as needed, and the thought of it being stuck in one position for
an extended period of time while I stare at a broken exhaust bolt trying to
figure out how to deal with that makes me very nervous....
On Fri, Oct 11, 2019 at 9:13 AM Jon Roche via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> GMC venders should have this part. I have gotten them from Sirum, and
> applied also has them. if you get the correct one, it is pretty easy to
> change and fits just right. Should have a little ridge as a stop where
> it goes into the block.
>
> remove the old one with a small slide hammer. and I have a little tool
> fabricated to tap the new one back down into the block. It is a nut, with
> a
> 1/4" round rod welded on to it. I rounded the back of the nut off a
> little bit, so it has a little more clearance between the block and the
> tube.
> and it slides over the new dipstick tube and butts up to that flange, and
> then I can easily tap the tube right down into place.
>
>
> --
> Jon Roche
> 75 palm beach
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Rich Kinas
1976 Elaganza II
Orlando, FL
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil dipstick tube [message #349181 is a reply to message #349180] |
Sat, 12 October 2019 09:15 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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Ah yes, the old corroded bolt trick. A couple that I use (more or less
successfully).
FIRST, BE KIND, GENTLE, AND PATIENT.
One ticked off yank on the breaker bar, and you are in do-do right up to
your neck.
SECOND, penetrating oil and a pinpoint heat source are your friends.
If you do not know them intimately, get to know them on a first name basis.
It will serve you well.
THIRD, LOW POWERED IMPACT TOOLS ARE YOUR FRIEND (or worst enemy,
depending upon how aggressively you apply their use).
So, open the hatch and spray your most effective penetrating agent
(there are many of them out there, and everyone professes to have the
secret mixture that will unlock anything and everything). Then, close the
hatch and walk away. Come back tomorrow, and repeat. 7 days is not too long
to repeat. NO JOKE. Give the stuff time to work.
Put a 6 point closed end wrench on the bolt, pull the wrench and tap,
tap, tap the end of the bolt with a hammer. If nothing budges, spray it
liberally with penetrant and WALK AWAY. Come back tomorrow with determined
resolve, and repeat the 6 point wrench trick. Try turning in both
directions. If it moves at all, your chances of success just improved a
great deal.
I have a battery powered 1/4 inch drive impact wrench. It will rattle
the hell out of those bolts, without snapping them off. I also have a
jeweler's oxy/acetylene torch with a tiny pinpoint flame that I use. Be
very, very carefull with flames under the hatch. Have an assistant with
lightning quick reactions and a cool head standing by with a CO2 or Halon
extinguisher when you do this. Absolutely not a dry chemical one. Apply
heat to the bolt and get it hot but not red hot. Then spray a couple of
quick squirts of penetrating oil on it. It might flare up briefly and smoke
like mad. Just blow it out with your breath, and apply the impact tricks
again. Repeat. BE PATIENT, you only have a stuck bolt. If you yank on that
wrench with too much force, you will set yourself up for a whole bunch of
work.
Jim Hupy
Salem,Oregon
On Sat, Oct 12, 2019, 6:35 AM Samuel Ferguson via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> This is what I am going to have to deal with when I get brave enough to
> start trying to remove exhaust manifold bolts.
>
> Sam
> --
> Samuel Ferguson
> Pittsfield, Illinois
> (West Central Illinois)
> 1976 GMC Palm Beach (A newbie who will not allow this thing to kick my
> butt!!)
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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>
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil dipstick tube [message #349188 is a reply to message #349181] |
Sat, 12 October 2019 12:01 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Perfect Hupy.
Sully
Bellevue wa.
On Sat, Oct 12, 2019 at 7:13 AM James Hupy via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> Ah yes, the old corroded bolt trick. A couple that I use (more or less
> successfully).
> FIRST, BE KIND, GENTLE, AND PATIENT.
> One ticked off yank on the breaker bar, and you are in do-do right up to
> your neck.
> SECOND, penetrating oil and a pinpoint heat source are your friends.
> If you do not know them intimately, get to know them on a first name basis.
> It will serve you well.
> THIRD, LOW POWERED IMPACT TOOLS ARE YOUR FRIEND (or worst enemy,
> depending upon how aggressively you apply their use).
> So, open the hatch and spray your most effective penetrating agent
> (there are many of them out there, and everyone professes to have the
> secret mixture that will unlock anything and everything). Then, close the
> hatch and walk away. Come back tomorrow, and repeat. 7 days is not too long
> to repeat. NO JOKE. Give the stuff time to work.
> Put a 6 point closed end wrench on the bolt, pull the wrench and tap,
> tap, tap the end of the bolt with a hammer. If nothing budges, spray it
> liberally with penetrant and WALK AWAY. Come back tomorrow with determined
> resolve, and repeat the 6 point wrench trick. Try turning in both
> directions. If it moves at all, your chances of success just improved a
> great deal.
> I have a battery powered 1/4 inch drive impact wrench. It will rattle
> the hell out of those bolts, without snapping them off. I also have a
> jeweler's oxy/acetylene torch with a tiny pinpoint flame that I use. Be
> very, very carefull with flames under the hatch. Have an assistant with
> lightning quick reactions and a cool head standing by with a CO2 or Halon
> extinguisher when you do this. Absolutely not a dry chemical one. Apply
> heat to the bolt and get it hot but not red hot. Then spray a couple of
> quick squirts of penetrating oil on it. It might flare up briefly and smoke
> like mad. Just blow it out with your breath, and apply the impact tricks
> again. Repeat. BE PATIENT, you only have a stuck bolt. If you yank on that
> wrench with too much force, you will set yourself up for a whole bunch of
> work.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem,Oregon
>
> On Sat, Oct 12, 2019, 6:35 AM Samuel Ferguson via Gmclist gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
>
>> This is what I am going to have to deal with when I get brave enough to
>> start trying to remove exhaust manifold bolts.
>>
>> Sam
>> --
>> Samuel Ferguson
>> Pittsfield, Illinois
>> (West Central Illinois)
>> 1976 GMC Palm Beach (A newbie who will not allow this thing to kick my
>> butt!!)
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil dipstick tube [message #349204 is a reply to message #349188] |
Sun, 13 October 2019 05:25 |
Rich Kinas
Messages: 113
Registered: July 2019
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Great suggestions. I have already been periodically spraying the bolts with penetrating oil for the last month every couple of days. I don't have a jewelers torch but I do have a mig welder that I was considering using to create a weld on the top of the bolt to get it nice and hot, while not buggering up the sides of the head. Are there any red flags on doing this, other than keeping the fire extinguisher handy? Also because of the way the bolts are oriented, I'm not sure how much penetrating oil actually makes it to the threads, so I was considering making like a little bath tub for the head to sit in out of aluminum tape. This way I could fill up the little bath with penetrating oil and hopefully it would flow (creep) into the threads. Or is this just a wast of time? Eventually I just have to get on with it and deal with the results. One followup question would be how important is this bolt for sealing the exhaust manifold? Could you run without it, at least until the engine needs a rebuild (which hopefully will be a long time from now)...
Rich Kinas
1976 Elaganza II
Orlando, FL
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| Re: Oil dipstick tube [message #349215 is a reply to message #349157] |
Sun, 13 October 2019 09:40 |
MikeB
Messages: 133
Registered: December 2018
Location: South Bama
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Jim
I like your write up a lot. The only thing I would add from my time working on 50-80 year old farm equip. Is a week is usually my target time and often it's longer and every day that I apply my solution I give the bolt a few light taps with the hammer straight on. I found it disrupts the next dry area of rust on the thread allowing the penetrant to seep just a little further.
Just my two cents.
M Beam
75’ Avion
TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
Zuki Sidekick,
Dozier Al
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| Re: Oil dipstick tube [message #349218 is a reply to message #349157] |
Sun, 13 October 2019 11:36 |
lqqkatjon
Messages: 2324
Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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I see my reply never made it to the forum.
Most will tell you if that middle bolt breaks off, just leave it. Others will say even if it does not break, leave it out. Most should agree that you do not want to overtighten that middle top bolt.
That bolt is the only one that "goes into the head". You dont have access to the backside of the bolt. The others go "through the head". At the spark plug locations. You can get to the backside of the bolt.
So make sure you see that and the other 4 bolts can use some penetrating oil on the back side of the bolt, in the spark plug hole.
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil dipstick tube [message #349232 is a reply to message #349218] |
Sun, 13 October 2019 18:46 |
Rich Kinas
Messages: 113
Registered: July 2019
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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So good news...I got the drivers side manifold off (doing one side at a
time). I was originally trying to remove the center bold from inside the
coach, then decided to ensure I had more control over the amount of torque
I was applying that I should attack from the wheel well. Jacked up the
drivers front, removed the wheel well cover and had direct access. The bolt
was actually not that hard to remove, after a month of soaking...Did not
even have to apply heat! Although ran out of time today and will have to
wait until Wednesday to tackle removing the broken stub of dipstick tube
going into the block and installing the new lower section. I was planning
on just clamping on some vice grips and tapping upward with a hammer to
remove. Is this a good or a bad idea?
Thanks for all the suggestions
Rich
On Sun, Oct 13, 2019 at 12:37 PM Jon Roche via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> I see my reply never made it to the forum.
>
> Most will tell you if that middle bolt breaks off, just leave it.
> Others will say even if it does not break, leave it out. Most should
> agree
> that you do not want to overtighten that middle top bolt.
>
> That bolt is the only one that "goes into the head". You dont have
> access to the backside of the bolt. The others go "through the head".
> At
> the spark plug locations. You can get to the backside of the bolt.
>
> So make sure you see that and the other 4 bolts can use some penetrating
> oil on the back side of the bolt, in the spark plug hole.
>
>
> --
> Jon Roche
> 75 palm beach
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Rich Kinas
1976 Elaganza II
Orlando, FL
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil dipstick tube [message #349235 is a reply to message #349232] |
Sun, 13 October 2019 20:05 |
GMCWiperMan
Messages: 1248
Registered: December 2007
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Insert a bolt in the broken off tube before gripping it with the lockgrips.
Ken H.
On Sun, Oct 13, 2019, 7:47 PM Rich Kinas via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> So good news...I got the drivers side manifold off (doing one side at a
> time). I was originally trying to remove the center bold from inside the
> coach, then decided to ensure I had more control over the amount of torque
> I was applying that I should attack from the wheel well. Jacked up the
> drivers front, removed the wheel well cover and had direct access. The bolt
> was actually not that hard to remove, after a month of soaking...Did not
> even have to apply heat! Although ran out of time today and will have to
> wait until Wednesday to tackle removing the broken stub of dipstick tube
> going into the block and installing the new lower section. I was planning
> on just clamping on some vice grips and tapping upward with a hammer to
> remove. Is this a good or a bad idea?
>
> Thanks for all the suggestions
>
> Rich
>
> On Sun, Oct 13, 2019 at 12:37 PM Jon Roche via Gmclist gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
>
>> I see my reply never made it to the forum.
>>
>> Most will tell you if that middle bolt breaks off, just leave it.
>> Others will say even if it does not break, leave it out. Most should
>> agree
>> that you do not want to overtighten that middle top bolt.
>>
>> That bolt is the only one that "goes into the head". You dont have
>> access to the backside of the bolt. The others go "through the
> head".
>> At
>> the spark plug locations. You can get to the backside of the bolt.
>>
>> So make sure you see that and the other 4 bolts can use some penetrating
>> oil on the back side of the bolt, in the spark plug hole.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jon Roche
>> 75 palm beach
>> St. Cloud, MN
>> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil dipstick tube [message #349239 is a reply to message #349232] |
Sun, 13 October 2019 21:18 |
Emery Stora
Messages: 959
Registered: January 2011
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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Put a long bolt into the stub and clamp your visegrips onto that.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick CO
> On Oct 13, 2019, at 5:46 PM, Rich Kinas via Gmclist wrote:
>
> So good news...I got the drivers side manifold off (doing one side at a
> time). I was originally trying to remove the center bold from inside the
> coach, then decided to ensure I had more control over the amount of torque
> I was applying that I should attack from the wheel well. Jacked up the
> drivers front, removed the wheel well cover and had direct access. The bolt
> was actually not that hard to remove, after a month of soaking...Did not
> even have to apply heat! Although ran out of time today and will have to
> wait until Wednesday to tackle removing the broken stub of dipstick tube
> going into the block and installing the new lower section. I was planning
> on just clamping on some vice grips and tapping upward with a hammer to
> remove. Is this a good or a bad idea?
>
> Thanks for all the suggestions
>
> Rich
>
> On Sun, Oct 13, 2019 at 12:37 PM Jon Roche via Gmclist gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
>
>> I see my reply never made it to the forum.
>>
>> Most will tell you if that middle bolt breaks off, just leave it.
>> Others will say even if it does not break, leave it out. Most should
>> agree
>> that you do not want to overtighten that middle top bolt.
>>
>> That bolt is the only one that "goes into the head". You dont have
>> access to the backside of the bolt. The others go "through the head".
>> At
>> the spark plug locations. You can get to the backside of the bolt.
>>
>> So make sure you see that and the other 4 bolts can use some penetrating
>> oil on the back side of the bolt, in the spark plug hole.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jon Roche
>> 75 palm beach
>> St. Cloud, MN
>> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil dipstick tube [message #349245 is a reply to message #349177] |
Mon, 14 October 2019 00:50 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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I totally agree with every thing Jim suggested. I always use Kroil or acetone and ATF for soaking. A little heat always helps so I soak it first and hit it in both directions with a 1/4" impact wrench for about 2 seconds each direction. If it is not loose, I start the vehicle to heat up the manifolds and bolts. Shut it off, and shock cool the bolts with Kroil. Then let them it soak for another day. The next day(s) I do the same thing. Usually it takes 3 to 5 days and they will spin right out. Be careful if you use a Harbor Freight (Bauer) 1/4" impact as it has more torque than most other brands. I usually borrow my friends 1/4" Dewalt for something like this because it is much weaker.
I had a friend helping me on another project a few weeks ago and after he broke his second 5/16" bolt with my HF impact, I gave him a borrowed Dewalt and he never broke another one. Time, and soaking is more important that a higher torque wrench.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil dipstick tube [message #349249 is a reply to message #349245] |
Mon, 14 October 2019 07:57 |
Rich Kinas
Messages: 113
Registered: July 2019
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Great suggestion on the bolt into the tube before clamping. Thanks. Slide
hammer may be easier but I don't have one so will try it without it first
and see how it goes.
Rich
On Mon, Oct 14, 2019 at 1:51 AM Ken Burton via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> I totally agree with every thing Jim suggested. I always use Kroil or
> acetone and ATF for soaking. A little heat always helps so I soak it first
> and
> hit it in both directions with a 1/4" impact wrench for about 2 seconds
> each direction. If it is not loose, I start the vehicle to heat up the
> manifolds and bolts. Shut it off, and shock cool the bolts with Kroil.
> Then let them it soak for another day. The next day(s) I do the same
> thing.
> Usually it takes 3 to 5 days and they will spin right out. Be careful if
> you use a Harbor Freight (Bauer) 1/4" impact as it has more torque than most
> other brands. I usually borrow my friends 1/4" Dewalt for something like
> this because it is much weaker.
>
> I had a friend helping me on another project a few weeks ago and after he
> broke his second 5/16" bolt with my HF impact, I gave him a borrowed Dewalt
> and he never broke another one. Time, and soaking is more important that
> a higher torque wrench.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Rich Kinas
1976 Elaganza II
Orlando, FL
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil dipstick tube [message #349253 is a reply to message #349249] |
Mon, 14 October 2019 09:10 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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Whatever you do, DO NOT BEND IT FROM SIDE TO SIDE, it is brittle, and will
break off flush with the block. A straight in-line pull is best. The slide
hammer trick works very well. Consider renting one.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
On Mon, Oct 14, 2019, 5:58 AM Rich Kinas via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> Great suggestion on the bolt into the tube before clamping. Thanks. Slide
> hammer may be easier but I don't have one so will try it without it first
> and see how it goes.
>
> Rich
>
> On Mon, Oct 14, 2019 at 1:51 AM Ken Burton via Gmclist gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
>
>> I totally agree with every thing Jim suggested. I always use Kroil or
>> acetone and ATF for soaking. A little heat always helps so I soak it
> first
>> and
>> hit it in both directions with a 1/4" impact wrench for about 2 seconds
>> each direction. If it is not loose, I start the vehicle to heat up the
>> manifolds and bolts. Shut it off, and shock cool the bolts with Kroil.
>> Then let them it soak for another day. The next day(s) I do the same
>> thing.
>> Usually it takes 3 to 5 days and they will spin right out. Be careful if
>> you use a Harbor Freight (Bauer) 1/4" impact as it has more torque than
> most
>> other brands. I usually borrow my friends 1/4" Dewalt for something like
>> this because it is much weaker.
>>
>> I had a friend helping me on another project a few weeks ago and after he
>> broke his second 5/16" bolt with my HF impact, I gave him a borrowed
> Dewalt
>> and he never broke another one. Time, and soaking is more important that
>> a higher torque wrench.
>> --
>> Ken Burton - N9KB
>> 76 Palm Beach
>> Hebron, Indiana
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil dipstick tube [message #349320 is a reply to message #349232] |
Wed, 16 October 2019 08:53 |
rvanwin
Messages: 325
Registered: April 2007
Location: Battlefield, MO
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Rich Kinas wrote on Sun, 13 October 2019 18:46So good news...I got the drivers side manifold off (doing one side at a
time). I was originally trying to remove the center bold from inside the
coach, then decided to ensure I had more control over the amount of torque
I was applying that I should attack from the wheel well. Jacked up the
drivers front, removed the wheel well cover and had direct access. The bolt
was actually not that hard to remove, after a month of soaking...Did not
even have to apply heat! Although ran out of time today and will have to
wait until Wednesday to tackle removing the broken stub of dipstick tube
going into the block and installing the new lower section. I was planning
on just clamping on some vice grips and tapping upward with a hammer to
remove. Is this a good or a bad idea?
I have removed a broken oil tube stub (broken even with the block) a couple of times. I have a long piece of small all-thread (maybe 1/8"). I thread a nut onto both ends. On one, I grind the nut so it fits into the tube. I then insert into the tube until the nut reaches the end of the tube and pull up until it laches on to the edge of the tube. Then with something like vise grips that I can loosely put onto the all-thread, I use that as a slide hammer to slide up against the second nut. A few taps and up pops the tube. In the ones I have done, I did not even have to use any penetrants. Since you have exposed tube above the block then inserting a bolt and clamping the tube with vise grips seems viable. My method may be something you consider especially if you break the tube flush with the block. BTW...I have even done this without removing the headers, although it is difficult to get the new tube aligned with the hole in the block because it is obscured. I ended up putting the all-thread back into the hole (without nuts attached) and using that as a guide for the new tube.
Randy & Margie
'77 Eleganza II '403'
Battlefield, MO
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