| Riveting questions! [message #348650] |
Sat, 28 September 2019 23:10  |
agoogol
Messages: 43
Registered: August 2019
Location: Centennial, Colorado
Karma: 0
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Ha! Funny?
Two issues I have maybe someone can help me with?
1. The seam running streetside to curbside, end rail to end rail across the coach at the front. One rivet came undone. Do I need to use steel shank rivets? Only use an air rivet gun? Options?
2. The running lights seem to use a jack nut blind rivet? Most of mine are trash....options? Do I have to get some blind jack nut tool to install? Thinking about just bolting it on the backside...other options?
Oh one more...
Replacement of the TV antenna thing. Just put in aluminum flashing? Gauge? Rivets? Air or ? How...? Obviously with sealant....bond n seal.....
Thank you all in advance!
Kevin Carter
1977 Kingsley - 403 c.i.
Centennial CO
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| Re: Riveting questions! [message #348654 is a reply to message #348650] |
Sun, 29 September 2019 06:26  |
6cuda6
Messages: 975
Registered: June 2019
Karma: -6
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Senior Member |
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#1 - i would go to a marine store and get aluminum splaying rivets (they open up at the back instead of bulging and the pin stays in)
#2 - body shop supply store for a Nutsert gun and nutserts (spelling??)
#3 - PO that had my coach just put a tin plate over the original fasterners....sealed and fastened.
Rich Mondor,
Brockville, ON
77 Hughes 2600
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| Re: [GMCnet] Riveting questions! [message #348666 is a reply to message #348654] |
Sun, 29 September 2019 08:06 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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The BEST WAY that I have found, is to remove the stock clearance lights,
and throw them as far as you can. They are 10 built in roof leaks.
There is available an exact shape duplicate, in both red and amber,
that is molded one piece LED light. When they first came out, they were
very expensive. But now they have come down in price to affordable. There
are 2 versions. 1 wire and 2 wire. Get the 2 wire. I buy them at a local
truck stop chrome shop in my area. (I shop local when I can).
The anchoring system that GMC used is crappy aluminum molyscrews. Dig
them out with needle nose pliers, being careful not to lose the wire
harness inside the skull cap, or you are in for a lot of unneccessary work.
I pull them up and tape them in place with duct tape.
The best anchoring system that I have found is something called a
palnut. It is molded neoprene cylinder with a brass threaded insert in the
bottom. When placed in the anchor hole a shoulder on top seals against the
roof, and when you tighten the light hold down screws the neoprene
collapses towards the roof, making a great seal (no leaky)
Use your favorite non silicone sealant around the center hole where
the wires go through, and CHECK POLARITY ON YOUR LIGHT HARNESS, and splice
the wires, poke em down into the hole, seal the hole, tighten the hold down
screws, and forget about them. End of leaks, and burned out clearance light
bulbs at the same time.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
On Sun, Sep 29, 2019, 4:27 AM tonka6cuda6--- via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> #1 - i would go to a marine store and get aluminum splaying rivets (they
> open up at the back instead of bulging and the pin stays in)
>
> #2 - body shop supply store for a Nutsert gun and nutserts (spelling??)
>
> #3 - PO that had my coach just put a tin plate over the original
> fasterners....sealed and fastened.
> --
> Rich Mondor,
>
> Brockville, ON
>
> 77 Hughes 2600
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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