Hey Folks
I'm on the road killing some time and would like to reduce the slamming it takes to fully close the door. Curvature wise when door is slammed shut the bottom latch side corner is inset about an 1/8" and top latch side is 1/16 out but almost flush. The top hinge side corner is inset about 1/16" and bottom is about the same but varies due to a slight outward bulge between the bottom hinge and belt line. I know some carefully handle recurve could improve the situation. But for now the entire door sits about 1/4" too low albeit well oriented. This puts the door catch about 1/4" lower than strike. So when I close the door with normal force I get a latching that leaves a sizable gap at door between latch and top latch corner. If I slam it with my hand about a foot high that latch it closes tight but insets it 1/8" AT THE LATCH.

I've not been able to lift door vertically even after loosening the hinge bolts on body side. So is there a way to move the strike outwards or the catch inwards? I feel this may reduce the force needed to close door.

Thanks
Mike

Ps I'm not on email and can only see forum posts.

Our door fits good but had to shut hard to get it to latch. I squirted a little wd40 in the door latch and now it clicks shut easily. ??? Now if I shut it hard it will bounce and only fasten half way. The easier I shut it the tighter it is. .???



MikeB wrote on Sun, 15 September 2019 16:24

Hey Folks
I'm on the road killing some time and would like to reduce the slamming it takes to fully close the door. Curvature wise when door is slammed shut the bottom latch side corner is inset about an 1/8" and top latch side is 1/16 out but almost flush. The top hinge side corner is inset about 1/16" and bottom is about the same but varies due to a slight outward bulge between the bottom hinge and belt line. I know some carefully handle recurve could improve the situation. But for now the entire door sits about 1/4" too low albeit well oriented. This puts the door catch about 1/4" lower than strike. So when I close the door with normal force I get a latching that leaves a sizable gap at door between latch and top latch corner. If I slam it with my hand about a foot high that latch it closes tight but insets it 1/8" AT THE LATCH.

I've not been able to lift door vertically even after loosening the hinge bolts on body side. So is there a way to move the strike outwards or the catch inwards? I feel this may reduce the force needed to close door.

Thanks
Mike

Ps I'm not on email and can only see forum posts.

Mike,
I'm lucky -- my door closes and latches "with one finger". But there's a
little more to the story than that. It sounds as if you've pretty
thoroughly investigated your problem, but some of the things I've done
and/or observed over the past 21 years may help:
1. Be sure the hinge bushings and pins are not worn. Apparently minor
looseness can cause big problems. Replacements are available on the Dorman
"HELP" rack at most parts stores.

2. Check the door itself as well as the casing where the hinges are
bolted. The door structure is prone to cracking near the hinges. You'll
probably have to take the door panel off to see the damage.

3. The curvature of the door is more easily corrected than with the
manual's procedure: Dan Winchester's web site has details. I've got an
album at gmcmhphotos.com under the username "kenhenders", but my computer
won't connect right now for me to post a URL. That technique uses a
hydraulic bottle jack as the forcing tool. Your description makes it sound
as if you may need to change the configuration a little from that Dan and I
used in order to adjust more than one area, but the principle should still
work.

4. The door striker is a large contributor to difficulty in closing the
door. The OEM version has a rubber layer inside the cylinder around which
the latch catches. That rubber prevents the latch from easily reaching the
second latch step. Bill Bramlett, a long-time GMCer, some years ago built
them with no rubber -- just a steel pin. That eliminated a LOT of door
slamming when I finally got around to putting it on a couple of years after
he gave me one. It's well worth whatever Applied GMC's charging for them
now.

5. Also on gmcmhphotos is a album about cleaning, degreasing, and
regreasing the door latch mechanism. That recent effort was more than
repaid by the results. It formerly took two fingers to latch the door, now
only the one.
Good luck,
Ken H.

On Sun, Sep 15, 2019 at 4:25 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <
[

Good, only 150 miles or so from us. We'll look forward to your joining us
at GMC Dixielanders activities. Or just visiting here.

Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, Troy-Bilt APU, etc., etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com


On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 5:59 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:

> "Where, Alabama? Can't be TOO far from us.
>
> Ken H.
> Americus, GA"
>
>
> I live just North of Opp Al
>
>
>
> --
> M Beam
> 75' Avion Lots of Mods
> Zuki Sidekick
>
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