I have one in my Onan cabinet. The biggest problem with them is that they are Halon and as such need to be way over size for the area you are trying to protect. Halon works very well in enclosed areas, but is terrible in areas with a reasonable amount of airflow.

I do not know how well they would protect a running GMC engine because the halon gas get's blown away easily. The nice thing is you can run it to multiple areas and it will only go off in the area that is hot enough to melt the hose. It will then dump it's entire contents in that area. I were using it around the engine then I would mount it in a U fashion to the bottom of the floor around the hatch cover and then run the remaining hose vertically down the back wall so it has a shot at protecting the transmission, oil lines, and transmission lines. Use the provided Adel clamps to hold it in place and get some more at the hardware store if necessary. Keep it well away from any exhaust pipes or headers. You do not want to melt the hose when there is no fire. My preference for engine fires is AR-AFFF foam, but given enough halon dumped it might work.

I have a small halon one in the refrigerator cabinet where there is no air flow. I have the tube type like yours in the area around the carb and gas lines of the Onan. I also carry multiple hand held AR-AFFF extinguishers in and outside the coach in case the Halon one does not do the job.

I have one in my Onan cabinet. The biggest problem with them is that they are Halon and as such need to be way over size for the area you are trying to protect. Halon works very well in enclosed areas, but is terrible in areas with a reasonable amount of airflow.

I do not know how well they would protect a running GMC engine because the halon gas get's blown away easily. The nice thing is you can run it to multiple areas and it will only go off in the area that is hot enough to melt the hose. It will then dump it's entire contents in that area. I were using it around the engine then I would mount it in a U fashion to the bottom of the floor around the hatch cover and then run the remaining hose vertically down the back wall so it has a shot at protecting the transmission, oil lines, and transmission lines. Use the provided Adel clamps to hold it in place and get some more at the hardware store if necessary. Keep it well away from any exhaust pipes or headers. You do not want to melt the hose when there is no fire. My preference for engine fires is AR-AFFF foam, but given enough halon dumped it might work.

I have a small halon one in the refrigerator cabinet where there is no air flow. I have the tube type like yours in the area around the carb and gas lines of the Onan. I also carry multiple hand held AR-AFFF extinguishers in and outside the coach in case the Halon one does not do the job.

This is the style of clamp you want: Steel for strength during a fire and rubber insulated so it will not vibrate and wear the tube. I do not know the diameter needed.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/15-pc-3-4-in-rubber-insulated-cable-clamps/A-p8205437e

I do not know what store brands you have there. I seem to remember a Home Depot near Walmart in Kamloops. What is that about 60K away?

Anyway, I am suggesting to try those type of stores if you have one anywhere close. They ought to have those in the electrical section. Do not get the plastic ones. They might melt or break and allow the hose to vibrate. Get the steel and rubber ones and a few 1/2" or 3/4" Phillips head screws. It will be difficult driving them because that wood is very hard up there. It will be difficult getting a powered screwdriver / drill in there. I have a 90 degree angle drill here but that will not do you much good.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pack-1-Inch-Cable-Clamp-Rubber-Cushioned-Insulated-Clamp-/392278449363

Princess Auto and Home Depot online showed some, but I did not see sizes larger than 3/4". I do not know what size you really need.
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/15-pc-3-4-in-rubber-insulated-cable-clamps/A-p8205437e
https://www.homedepot.com/s/Rubber%2520insulated%2520clamps?NCNI-5

Nice work Guys looking after Deb.

Mike in NS

Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS

Life is too short to hold a grudge; slash some tires and call it even !
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Ken Burton wrote on Fri, 19 April 2019 02:16

This is the style of clamp you want: Steel for strength during a fire and rubber insulated so it will not vibrate and wear the tube. I do not know the diameter needed.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/15-pc-3-4-in-rubber-insulated-cable-clamps/A-p8205437e

I do not know what store brands you have there. I seem to remember a Home Depot near Walmart in Kamloops. What is that about 60K away?

Anyway, I am suggesting to try those type of stores if you have one anywhere close. They ought to have those in the electrical section. Do not get the plastic ones. They might melt or break and allow the hose to vibrate. Get the steel and rubber ones and a few 1/2" or 3/4" Phillips head screws. It will be difficult driving them because that wood is very hard up there. It will be difficult getting a powered screwdriver / drill in there. I have a 90 degree angle drill here but that will not do you much good.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pack-1-Inch-Cable-Clamp-Rubber-Cushioned-Insulated-Clamp-/392278449363

Princess Auto and Home Depot online showed some, but I did not see sizes larger than 3/4". I do not know what size you really need.
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/15-pc-3-4-in-rubber-insulated-cable-clamps/A-p8205437e
https://www.homedepot.com/s/Rubber%2520insulated%2520clamps?NCNI-5

Hey Ken. Our Princess Auto has those 3/4" clamps and the tubing is 3/4" diameter, so that's perfect. It's only a 45 minute drive to P' Auto (everything is a 45 minute drive from here ) And although Walmart is closer, Princess Auto will be much more interesting to wander through. Who knows what I must buy that I don't really need. Might even find a 90 degree angle drill - or just go to Home Depot and what I can spend there. Hey - it's spring - time to start spending money on the coach again. Just got 7 new Toyo's on her.

And I'll use Robertson screws Right Bruce?

Ken Burton wrote on Fri, 19 April 2019 01:25

I have one in my Onan cabinet. The biggest problem with them is that they are Halon and as such need to be way over size for the area you are trying to protect. Halon works very well in enclosed areas, but is terrible in areas with a reasonable amount of airflow.

I do not know how well they would protect a running GMC engine because the halon gas get's blown away easily. The nice thing is you can run it to multiple areas and it will only go off in the area that is hot enough to melt the hose. It will then dump it's entire contents in that area. I were using it around the engine then I would mount it in a U fashion to the bottom of the floor around the hatch cover and then run the remaining hose vertically down the back wall so it has a shot at protecting the transmission, oil lines, and transmission lines. Use the provided Adel clamps to hold it in place and get some more at the hardware store if necessary. Keep it well away from any exhaust pipes or headers. You do not want to melt the hose when there is no fire. My preference for engine fires is AR-AFFF foam, but given enough halon dumped it might work.

I have a small halon one in the refrigerator cabinet where there is no air flow. I have the tube type like yours in the area around the carb and gas lines of the Onan. I also carry multiple hand held AR-AFFF extinguishers in and outside the coach in case the Halon one does not do the job.

Ken,
You showed me what you had for your Onan at last years Eastern States work rally. I thought it was something I should get, but so far have not done anything about it. Considering what has happened recently, I want to enhance what I currently have. Right now I have FireFight halon in my Onan and refrigerator compartments and FireFight foam in the engine area. Also, 7 foam extinguishers located throughout the coach. I need to install something I can get to from outside the coach. I want to get a 2nd system (BlazeCut?)for the engine area.

The BlazeCut product might be better than Halon in our application.

According to:
https://www.chemours.com/FE/en_US/products/fe36.html


"FE-36™ is proving to be the standard in-kind replacement for Halon 1211 in portable fire extinguishers. FE-36™ has comparable performance and efficiency to Halon 1211, lower toxicity, as well as zero ozone depletion potential. In a portable fire extinguisher, FE-36™ is discharged as a stream of gas and liquid droplets that penetrate into the fire area, ceasing the combustion process through heat absorption and a chemical interaction. FE-36™ is also a replacement for Halon 1301 in local application systems, such as modular systems."

This subject, fire extinguishing components and products, comes up pretty often. Rob Mueller has a write up somewhere about the fire extinguishing media and equipment, pretty decent page.

Do not go blindly into this. Different extinguishing materials have different results.
Do your homework.

I mentioned CO2 before. CO2 is a gas, similar to many gas extinguisher media available.

CO2 works by starving the fire or chemical reaction which causes the fire, from getting any Oxygen.
This effectively puts the fire out as long as there is a supply of CO2 to keep the fuel covered.
The problem with gaseous extinguishers is they fall to the ground or can easily be blown away
by the wind, then AIR will take the place of the receeding gas extinguishing medias place.
As the AIR hits the fuel the chance of fire becomes critical, if the fuel is on a motor, which may
be hot enough to re-ignite the fuel, you are back in the fire again.

( A cautionary note here::: If the gas fire extinguisher media can starve a fire from oxygen, if
you are BELOW the area of the fire, STAY OUT OF THE AREA THAT THE GAS MEDIA IS FALLING. If it can
starve a fire fuel from oxygen, IT WILL STARVE YOU FROM OXYGEN ALSO. This type of media tends to
puddle in low spaces.)

ALSO HAVE IN MIND, like the small dry chem extinguishers, you only have under a minute supply of
fire extinguishing media to put that fire out. After that you are empty.

Using water spray has been mentioned before. The big reason is you all carry a 30 gallon water
supply. Misting (the amount of mist heavy or light would need to be tested, would not only cool
the fuel taking the heat part of the equation, thus putting out the fire, but would also cool the
hot metal. Misting is preferred over a deluge to prevent spreading a fuel fed fire on the ground,
which could be worse.

Foam is the best of both worlds, has water in the mix, and a extinguishment to starve the fire
from an air source. Foam will also float on top of a fuel that is burning, which will also starve
the burning fuel. But if using an automated system, the placement of the nozzles could be
hit or miss.

There are some fire protecting covers and I think I read of some fire resistant paint that can
be applied over the motor compartment walls, to slow progress of a fire. (perhaps give time for
the fire department to arrive to put the fire out without losing the coach entirely).

As was mentioned before, an automatic system may not save your coach, but you may get a minute
or two of critical time to dig your way out and escape the vehicle.