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[GMCnet] Replacing rear wheal cylinder. [message #340167] Fri, 18 January 2019 16:50 Go to next message
johnd01 is currently offline  johnd01   United States
Messages: 354
Registered: July 2017
Location: Sacrameot
Karma: -1
Senior Member
I started to replace the right-center axle wheel cylinder. I found the
brake line fitting to the wheel cylinder had been rounded off. Do I need to
replace the brake line to get a new fitting? Is there enough line slack to
cut the tubing and replace the fitting?

--

*John Phillips*
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Johnd01 John Phillips Avion A2600 TZE064V101164 Rancho Cordova, CA (Sacramento)
Re: [GMCnet] Replacing rear wheal cylinder. [message #340169 is a reply to message #340167] Fri, 18 January 2019 18:01 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
Senior Member
johnd01 wrote on Fri, 18 January 2019 17:50
I started to replace the right-center axle wheel cylinder. I found the
brake line fitting to the wheel cylinder had been rounded off. Do I need to replace the brake line to get a new fitting? Is there enough line slack to cut the tubing and replace the fitting?
--
*John Phillips*
John,

You don't have to, but there is not enough slack to pull the line and re-flare it for the new nut. Just buy a new piece of line as it will be easier.

You are an e-mail reader without a sigfile so I don't know where you are, but if you are anyplace that iron rusts I have a suggestion that will pay off in the future. On ever wheel cylinder or caliper, pull the bleed screw all the way out and put a wrap about one and an half turns of teflon tape on it. This way, when you go to use the bleeder again, it just might unscrew. The teflon tape keeps the brake fluid (that assist corrosion) from getting into the threads and the environmental moisture is also excluded. Then just be sure that all the brake bleeds have their caps and the next time you go to mess with the brakes, things will go much better.

I used to used a teflon pipe thread sealant, but the tape works better. It would be an even better idea if it were mine. Chuck Boyd brought that up years ago.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: [GMCnet] Replacing rear wheal cylinder. [message #340171 is a reply to message #340169] Fri, 18 January 2019 19:15 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Henderson is currently offline  Ken Henderson   United States
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
Senior Member
Matt,

You failed to tell John about your magic Vice Grips! Those MIGHT save him.

Ken H.

On Fri, Jan 18, 2019 at 7:22 PM Matt Colie wrote:

> johnd01 wrote on Fri, 18 January 2019 17:50
>> I started to replace the right-center axle wheel cylinder. I found the
>> brake line fitting to the wheel cylinder had been rounded off. Do I need
> to replace the brake line to get a new fitting? Is there enough line
>> slack to cut the tubing and replace the fitting?
>> --
>> *John Phillips*
>
> John,
>
> You don't have to, but there is not enough slack to pull the line and
> re-flare it for the new nut. Just buy a new piece of line as it will be
> easier.
>
>
> You are an e-mail reader without a sigfile so I don't know where you are,
> but if you are anyplace that iron rusts I have a suggestion that will pay
> off in the future. On ever wheel cylinder or caliper, pull the bleed
> screw all the way out and put a wrap about one and an half turns of teflon
> tape
> on it. This way, when you go to use the bleeder again, it just might
> unscrew. The teflon tape keeps the brake fluid (that assist corrosion) from
> getting into the threads and the environmental moisture is also excluded.
> Then just be sure that all the brake bleeds have their caps and the next
> time you go to mess with the brakes, things will go much better.
>
> I used to used a teflon pipe thread sealant, but the tape works better.
> It would be an even better idea if it were mine. Chuck Boyd brought that up
> years ago.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
Re: [GMCnet] Replacing rear wheal cylinder. [message #340172 is a reply to message #340171] Fri, 18 January 2019 19:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
sgltrac is currently offline  sgltrac   United States
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
Senior Member
Ya Ken. What I was thinking too. He needs a link to that

Sully
Bellevue wa

On Fri, Jan 18, 2019 at 5:16 PM Ken Henderson
wrote:

> Matt,
>
> You failed to tell John about your magic Vice Grips! Those MIGHT save him.
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Fri, Jan 18, 2019 at 7:22 PM Matt Colie wrote:
>
>> johnd01 wrote on Fri, 18 January 2019 17:50
>>> I started to replace the right-center axle wheel cylinder. I found the
>>> brake line fitting to the wheel cylinder had been rounded off. Do I
> need
>> to replace the brake line to get a new fitting? Is there enough line
>>> slack to cut the tubing and replace the fitting?
>>> --
>>> *John Phillips*
>>
>> John,
>>
>> You don't have to, but there is not enough slack to pull the line and
>> re-flare it for the new nut. Just buy a new piece of line as it will be
>> easier.
>>
>>
>> You are an e-mail reader without a sigfile so I don't know where you are,
>> but if you are anyplace that iron rusts I have a suggestion that will pay
>> off in the future. On ever wheel cylinder or caliper, pull the bleed
>> screw all the way out and put a wrap about one and an half turns of
> teflon
>> tape
>> on it. This way, when you go to use the bleeder again, it just might
>> unscrew. The teflon tape keeps the brake fluid (that assist corrosion)
> from
>> getting into the threads and the environmental moisture is also excluded.
>> Then just be sure that all the brake bleeds have their caps and the next
>> time you go to mess with the brakes, things will go much better.
>>
>> I used to used a teflon pipe thread sealant, but the tape works better.
>> It would be an even better idea if it were mine. Chuck Boyd brought
> that up
>> years ago.
>>
>> Matt
>> --
>> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
>> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
>> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
>> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Sully 77 Royale basket case. Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list) Seattle, Wa.
Re: [GMCnet] Replacing rear wheal cylinder. [message #340173 is a reply to message #340171] Fri, 18 January 2019 19:47 Go to previous messageGo to next message
johnd01 is currently offline  johnd01   United States
Messages: 354
Registered: July 2017
Location: Sacrameot
Karma: -1
Senior Member
Is there something special about Matt's Vice Grips, or will any old pair of
big Vice Grips work?

On Fri, Jan 18, 2019 at 5:16 PM Ken Henderson
wrote:

> Matt,
>
> You failed to tell John about your magic Vice Grips! Those MIGHT save him.
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Fri, Jan 18, 2019 at 7:22 PM Matt Colie wrote:
>
>> johnd01 wrote on Fri, 18 January 2019 17:50
>>> I started to replace the right-center axle wheel cylinder. I found the
>>> brake line fitting to the wheel cylinder had been rounded off. Do I
> need
>> to replace the brake line to get a new fitting? Is there enough line
>>> slack to cut the tubing and replace the fitting?
>>> --
>>> *John Phillips*
>>
>> John,
>>
>> You don't have to, but there is not enough slack to pull the line and
>> re-flare it for the new nut. Just buy a new piece of line as it will be
>> easier.
>>
>>
>> You are an e-mail reader without a sigfile so I don't know where you are,
>> but if you are anyplace that iron rusts I have a suggestion that will pay
>> off in the future. On ever wheel cylinder or caliper, pull the bleed
>> screw all the way out and put a wrap about one and an half turns of
> teflon
>> tape
>> on it. This way, when you go to use the bleeder again, it just might
>> unscrew. The teflon tape keeps the brake fluid (that assist corrosion)
> from
>> getting into the threads and the environmental moisture is also excluded.
>> Then just be sure that all the brake bleeds have their caps and the next
>> time you go to mess with the brakes, things will go much better.
>>
>> I used to used a teflon pipe thread sealant, but the tape works better.
>> It would be an even better idea if it were mine. Chuck Boyd brought
> that up
>> years ago.
>>
>> Matt
>> --
>> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
>> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
>> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
>> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>


--

John Phillips

* Rancho Cordova, Ca*

*10 miles East of Sacramento*

*1975 Avion. *
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Johnd01 John Phillips Avion A2600 TZE064V101164 Rancho Cordova, CA (Sacramento)
Re: [GMCnet] Replacing rear wheal cylinder. [message #340176 is a reply to message #340173] Fri, 18 January 2019 21:34 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Billy Massey is currently offline  Billy Massey   United States
Messages: 916
Registered: January 2004
Location: Central Texas
Karma: 1
Senior Member

https://www.google.com/search?q=nut+breaker+vice+grips&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1

On Fri, Jan 18, 2019, 6:43 PM John Phillips Is there something special about Matt's Vice Grips, or will any old pair of[/color]
> big Vice Grips work?
>
> On Fri, Jan 18, 2019 at 5:16 PM Ken Henderson
> wrote:
>
>> Matt,
>>
>> You failed to tell John about your magic Vice Grips! Those MIGHT save
> him.
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 18, 2019 at 7:22 PM Matt Colie
> wrote:
>>
>>> johnd01 wrote on Fri, 18 January 2019 17:50
>>>> I started to replace the right-center axle wheel cylinder. I found
> the
>>>> brake line fitting to the wheel cylinder had been rounded off. Do I
>> need
>>> to replace the brake line to get a new fitting? Is there enough line
>>>> slack to cut the tubing and replace the fitting?
>>>> --
>>>> *John Phillips*
>>>
>>> John,
>>>
>>> You don't have to, but there is not enough slack to pull the line and
>>> re-flare it for the new nut. Just buy a new piece of line as it will
> be
>>> easier.
>>>
>>>
>>> You are an e-mail reader without a sigfile so I don't know where you
> are,
>>> but if you are anyplace that iron rusts I have a suggestion that will
> pay
>>> off in the future. On ever wheel cylinder or caliper, pull the bleed
>>> screw all the way out and put a wrap about one and an half turns of
>> teflon
>>> tape
>>> on it. This way, when you go to use the bleeder again, it just might
>>> unscrew. The teflon tape keeps the brake fluid (that assist corrosion)
>> from
>>> getting into the threads and the environmental moisture is also
> excluded.
>>> Then just be sure that all the brake bleeds have their caps and the
> next
>>> time you go to mess with the brakes, things will go much better.
>>>
>>> I used to used a teflon pipe thread sealant, but the tape works better.
>>> It would be an even better idea if it were mine. Chuck Boyd brought
>> that up
>>> years ago.
>>>
>>> Matt
>>> --
>>> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
>>> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
>>> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
>>> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>
>
> --
>
> John Phillips
>
> * Rancho Cordova, Ca*
>
> *10 miles East of Sacramento*
>
> *1975 Avion. *
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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bdub
bdub.net
Re: [GMCnet] Replacing rear wheal cylinder. [message #340177 is a reply to message #340176] Sat, 19 January 2019 04:02 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Henderson is currently offline  Ken Henderson   United States
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
Senior Member
John,

This 7" version is probably the most all-around versatile, but the 4"
version is sometimes needed for tight locations:

From bdub's link:

https://www.toolup.com/Vise-Grip-7lw-7-Locking-Wrench-7LW?CAWELAID=120204890000042684&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=37806089434&CATCI=pla-44911907868 5&CATARGETID=120204890000508900&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKCAiAsoviBRAoEiwATm8OYMJSG-i62pXxw7c7zHAJh7XXtJerCKouoVVvP50G_gX3zN4t4sRPQBoCVTAQAvD_B wE

Ken H.

On Fri, Jan 18, 2019 at 10:35 PM Billy Massey wrote:

>
> https://www.google.com/search?q=nut+breaker+vice+grips&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1
>
> On Fri, Jan 18, 2019, 6:43 PM John Phillips wrote:
>
>> Is there something special about Matt's Vice Grips, or will any old pair
> of
>> big Vice Grips work?
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 18, 2019 at 5:16 PM Ken Henderson
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Matt,
>>>
>>> You failed to tell John about your magic Vice Grips! Those MIGHT save
>> him.
>>>
>>> Ken H.
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jan 18, 2019 at 7:22 PM Matt Colie
>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> johnd01 wrote on Fri, 18 January 2019 17:50
>>>> > I started to replace the right-center axle wheel cylinder. I found
>> the
>>>> > brake line fitting to the wheel cylinder had been rounded off. Do I
>>> need
>>>> to replace the brake line to get a new fitting? Is there enough line
>>>> > slack to cut the tubing and replace the fitting?
>>>> > --
>>>> > *John Phillips*
>>>>
>>>> John,
>>>>
>>>> You don't have to, but there is not enough slack to pull the line and
>>>> re-flare it for the new nut. Just buy a new piece of line as it will
>> be
>>>> easier.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> You are an e-mail reader without a sigfile so I don't know where you
>> are,
>>>> but if you are anyplace that iron rusts I have a suggestion that will
>> pay
>>>> off in the future. On ever wheel cylinder or caliper, pull the bleed
>>>> screw all the way out and put a wrap about one and an half turns of
>>> teflon
>>>> tape
>>>> on it. This way, when you go to use the bleeder again, it just might
>>>> unscrew. The teflon tape keeps the brake fluid (that assist
> corrosion)
>>> from
>>>> getting into the threads and the environmental moisture is also
>> excluded.
>>>> Then just be sure that all the brake bleeds have their caps and the
>> next
>>>> time you go to mess with the brakes, things will go much better.
>>>>
>>>> I used to used a teflon pipe thread sealant, but the tape works
> better.
>>>> It would be an even better idea if it were mine. Chuck Boyd brought
>>> that up
>>>> years ago.
>>>>
>>>> Matt
>>>> --
>>>> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
>>>> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
>>>> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
>>>> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> John Phillips
>>
>> * Rancho Cordova, Ca*
>>
>> *10 miles East of Sacramento*
>>
>> *1975 Avion. *
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
Re: [GMCnet] Replacing rear wheal cylinder. [message #340184 is a reply to message #340172] Sat, 19 January 2019 09:33 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
Senior Member
Quote:
sgltrac wrote on Fri, 18 January 2019 20:37]Ya Ken. What I was thinking too. He needs a link to that.
Sully

On Fri, Jan 18, 2019 at 5:16 PM Ken Henderson
wrote:
Matt,
You failed to tell John about your magic Vice Grips! Those MIGHT save him.
Ken H.
Yes,
When He said that the hex was blown off, I should have. - Sorry about that....

I guess I could do a link, these have been a part of my kit for so long that I don't think of them as special.

I can't find a really good link. They all take me to E-bay or Amazon and you can do better.

Search for: "ViseGrip 4LW" LW means locking wrench
That LW means it has jaws that will grip three FLATs of a blown out hex. They can grip well enough so that (one one very memorable occasion) I was able to fail a brake line nut in shear and the tool still held the hex. (I didn't get to save that wheel cylinder.)
The best deal I am finding is a Zoro.com.

The 4" should be less than 9$ and if you have to pay for shipping, get the 7" at the same time.
The 4" is tiny, but it is about the right size for brake lines and bleeder screws.

The real thing is to look for the special jaw shape.
Years ago, I bought the set of three because they looked like a good idea. I have probably only used the 10" a couple of times.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: [GMCnet] Replacing rear wheal cylinder. [message #340186 is a reply to message #340184] Sat, 19 January 2019 09:50 Go to previous message
James Hupy is currently offline  James Hupy   United States
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
Senior Member
What he really needs to do, is get his hands on the neck of the person that
persisted in using the wrong tool on that fitting. Although, if that person
is of middle age or beyond, and is still rounding off brake line fittings,
re-education may be impossible. Old sloppy habits die hard. Heating/cooling
cycles combined with the correct tools and penetrating oil of your choice
usually will prevail.
Jim Hupy

On Sat, Jan 19, 2019, 7:34 AM Matt Colie Quote:[/color]
>> sgltrac wrote on Fri, 18 January 2019 20:37]Ya Ken. What I was thinking
> too. He needs a link to that.
>> Sully
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 18, 2019 at 5:16 PM Ken Henderson
>> wrote:
>> Matt,
>> You failed to tell John about your magic Vice Grips! Those MIGHT save
> him.
>> Ken H.
>
> Yes,
> When He said that the hex was blown off, I should have. - Sorry about
> that....
>
> I guess I could do a link, these have been a part of my kit for so long
> that I don't think of them as special.
>
> I can't find a really good link. They all take me to E-bay or Amazon and
> you can do better.
>
> Search for: "ViseGrip 4LW" LW means locking wrench
> That LW means it has jaws that will grip three FLATs of a blown out
> hex. They can grip well enough so that (one one very memorable occasion) I
> was
> able to fail a brake line nut in shear and the tool still held the hex.
> (I didn't get to save that wheel cylinder.)
> The best deal I am finding is a Zoro.com.
>
> The 4" should be less than 9$ and if you have to pay for shipping, get the
> 7" at the same time.
> The 4" is tiny, but it is about the right size for brake lines and bleeder
> screws.
>
> The real thing is to look for the special jaw shape.
> Years ago, I bought the set of three because they looked like a good
> idea. I have probably only used the 10" a couple of times.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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