Gauges [message #338958] |
Thu, 22 November 2018 09:18 |
Eleganza2 Newbie
Messages: 9 Registered: October 2018 Location: Boone, NC USA
Karma: 0
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Junior Member |
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Greetings everyone. I posted several days ago that I was struggling to get my gauges to work. Here is what I have done.
Check and replaced the fuse that said "gauges and Trans"
Taken the Dash apart and cleaned the screws and the base plate with a wire brush
Taken a piece of wire and run it from the bolt on the alternator to the dash plate then to the screws holding on the gauges assembly. Then I tried going to the negative terminal on the battery.
I turned on the ignition and still had no results other than the gauges immediately move to the "Full" "Cold" "High" positions and stay pinned there.
Am I not grounding it enough? Is there another option for checking? It seems that since all three of those gauges on the assembly are acting similar it isn't the gauge itself but rather something else. Any advice?
Michael
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Re: [GMCnet] Gauges [message #339039 is a reply to message #339025] |
Sun, 25 November 2018 09:06 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629 Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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There are 2 grounding straps. One on the RF body mount and one on the RR transmission mount. Is your dash and gauges OEM or aftermarket? It is unusual for all the gauges to be off unless they have been replaced with aftermarket.
Eleganza2 Newbie wrote on Sat, 24 November 2018 19:45Where is that grounding strap?
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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Re: Gauges [message #339101 is a reply to message #339099] |
Tue, 27 November 2018 08:40 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629 Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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The water temp OEM sending unit is suppose to be in the LF of the intake manifold in a water jacket with one wire going to it. Grounding this wire should make a difference in the gauge reading with key on. If the aftermarket water temp gauge is manual the sender may have been moved cause the cable to manual gauge is to short to go anywhere else. Most I have seen are moved to RF of intake where the vacuum tree is suppose to be or in the rear of intake in water jacket. The OEM oil pressure sending unit is about 3" in front of the water temp sending unit coming up out of block behind timing cover. Again grounding this single wire should change the gauge reading. Both of these wires run in a covered harness that runs around alternator to dash and could be compromised inside the covered harness.
If the aftermarket gauges are electrical instead of manual they should have their own separate sending units and not piggybacked off one sending unit. Chase the wires and see what is going where.
Eleganza2 Newbie wrote on Tue, 27 November 2018 08:55As far as I know they are OEM. They sure look like the original ones.
Some secondary aftermarket gauges were added down low. AS far as I can tell they aren't independent of the main gauges. They have water temp, oil pressure, RPM and vacuum. The main gauges are the ones I need working....specifically the fuel tank levels and the temperature (The aux temp gauge isn't working well either).
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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Re: Gauges [message #339102 is a reply to message #338958] |
Tue, 27 November 2018 09:03 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447 Registered: October 2006 Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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My experience with stuff like this if you put everything back to factory correct with clean connections it will work. I often suggest Caig D5 spray as the best contact cleaner and always keep a can on board. Your alternator add on wire is really scarring me on many levels. I suggest disconnecting the oil and water sender wires and turn key on. See guage response. Then ground each to engine and check gauge response. You can see if cluster responds or if senders are bad.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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