Kelly,

Tom is 100% correct re being a PITA to change these IF the 6/32 screws are rusted in and the rivnuts strip / spin in the roof.

To R&R them spray them with penetrating fluid such as PB Blaster several times over a week or so, then VERY carefully try to unscrew
them. Should the rivnuts spin you can get these to replace them:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#blind-rivet-nuts/=1d0urn0

Be careful when you remove the wires, if the bullet connectors come loose the wire will disappear under the roof and you'll have a
hell of a time fishing it back out!

As far as sealing them goes the Grote lights I sent you the link for have THICK sponge rubber seals, I put a set on Double Trouble
in 2008 and they haven't leaked yet. BTW you don't have to squash the seal FLAT.

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808



-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@list.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Thomas Phipps
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2018 8:00 AM
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] roof lights

DOT requires the lights. If your State has vehicle inspections, it will not pass without functioning clearance lights. Disclaimer:
Alabama does not inspect privately owned vehicles.

The LED replacements work well, but the color coded wires on the lights are reversed. Install them once and seal them down with your
favorite gasket material that is not silicon.

JmK and others have complete sets of proper LED clearance lights. If your rivnuts are not destroyed by rust, the screw holes match
up. Otherwise, it is PITA.

Tom


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are these the same ones that are on the roof now?
<snip>
I think the leak I have at the windshield when it's raining and I go downhill is actually water dripping though a light and pooling on the back of the headliner.

thank you
kelly

I think the leak I have at the windshield when it's raining and I go downhill is actually water dripping though a light and pooling on the back of the headliner.

thank you
kelly

Where above your windshield is the water showing up? If it's showing up at the rearview mirror, or at the driver's or passenger's knees, the leak may not be from the clearance lights.

I replaced my clearance lights and still had a leak. Bill Bryant referred me to an early Service Bulletin, 75-TM-10, that describes a potential point of water entry - the roof cap to windshield frame joint. The two pieces are bonded together and the joint is partially concealed by a bead in the SMC running along the bottom edge of the roof cap. My coach had been repainted and the gap in the joint was barely visible even close up, but it was enough to let water enter and capillary action kept sucking water into the gap.

The windshield frame to roof cap is a built up box section. It holds water, and sometimes days after a rain, I'd start driving and water would start leaking from above when I turned a corner or the coach was on an incline.

As a test, tape up that joint well and hose down the roof to see if you can recreate the leak. Odd thing about that leak, I'd pressurized and tested the coach seams with soapy water twice and there were never any bubbles at the roof cap/windshield frame joint.

If the leak does turn out to be coming from that gap...don't use silicone caulk!

Richard


kstockwell wrote:

I think the leak I have at the windshield when it's raining and I go downhill is actually water dripping though a light and pooling on the back of the headliner.

thank you
kelly

Where above your windshield is the water showing up? If it's showing up at the rearview mirror, or at the driver's or passenger's knees, the leak may not be from the clearance lights.

I replaced my clearance lights and still had a leak. Bill Bryant referred me to an early Service Bulletin, 75-TM-10, that describes a potential point of water entry - the roof cap to windshield frame joint. The two pieces are bonded together and the joint is partially concealed by a bead in the SMC running along the bottom edge of the roof cap. My coach had been repainted and the gap in the joint was barely visible even close up, but it was enough to let water enter and capillary action kept sucking water into the gap.

The windshield frame to roof cap is a built up box section. It holds water, and sometimes days after a rain, I'd start driving and water would start leaking from above when I turned a corner or the coach was on an incline.

As a test, tape up that joint well and hose down the roof to see if you can recreate the leak. Odd thing about that leak, I'd pressurized and tested the coach seams with soapy water twice and there were never any bubbles at the roof cap/windshield frame joint.

If the leak does turn out to be coming from that gap...don't use silicone caulk!

Richard


kstockwell wrote:

I think the leak I have at the windshield when it's raining and I go downhill is actually water dripping though a light and pooling on the back of the headliner.

thank you
kelly