I got a dowel, put 1/2" markers on it and have been putting it into the black tank via toilet (water off) to figure out how much is in there and when I need to dump.

Anyone know for a Kingsley what the top would be? I'm at 3" now. This is the only gauge that doesn't work. When I move the switch, it moves from E to less than E (i did swap modules to make sure the readout wasn't the issue). I guess my LP gauge might not be right either, at E on the tank, it read 1/2 full. I had 10 gallons put in now both the LP tank and gauge says F

kelly

i have a cheap multimeter. Can I run a new ground and see if it works?

I'm actually OK with the gauge not working. I feel like I did this test once with the stick and the first 3" was slow going then it shot up; these tanks have caved in tops, right?

kstockwell wrote on Sat, 26 May 2018 15:09

i have a cheap multimeter. Can I run a new ground and see if it works?

I'm actually OK with the gauge not working. I feel like I did this test once with the stick and the first 3" was slow going then it shot up; these tanks have caved in tops, right?

Kelly,

I do not believe that the problem you are seeing is the result of a bad ground. (I can tell you that this is only about the second time I have said there - Ever.)
I cannot tell you about your black tank, yours is much newer and likely to be different than mine. Mine is as close to flat on top as an old plastic tank could hope to be. The entire tank is only 6-3/4 inches tall (or there abouts - iirc)

There is a test you could try....
You will have to disconnect the monitor panel and look into the connector.
There should be 6 connections, a space and two more connections.
counting from the outside end of the six connections (one diagram has the last of the six omitted) use your meter to measure resistance between pins 4 and 5.
That should be between 3 and 90 ohms. If the tank is half full, it should be close to 45 ohms.
If that works out, the tank sender is good. That means that the instrument is bad.

*** Don't bother doing this now ****
While you have that panel out, look at the back. The instruments are connected by nuts on copper studs. Just for giggles, get out a decent tool, like a 1/4 drive socket, and looses each just a little and tighten it back up. If the connection has gotten bad, this could restore it.

Actually, now that I wrote all that, take the chance if you dare, but it is not likely to fix anything. When the connection to the sender is lost, the pointer will go to full. So, that has little chance to be the problem.

Matt

Matt, how difficult is it to replace a black tank? I found mine was damaged
to the drivers side of the sender. Looks like it was patched twice, but has
a fun smelly drip.

I may drain and try to repair vs a full swap out.

I have no desire to do this =)

Flex seal to the rescue

After reading this thread - I'm really glad I've been able to keep my gauges functioning. I don't really want a poo dipstick...

Rob
Victoria, BC
76 Royale - Rear Twins/Dry Bath

> On May 27, 2018, at 6:01 AM, Will wrote:
>
> I have no desire to do this =)
>
> Flex seal to the rescue
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kstockwell wrote on Sat, 26 May 2018 15:09

i have a cheap multimeter. Can I run a new ground and see if it works?

I'm actually OK with the gauge not working. I feel like I did this test once with the stick and the first 3" was slow going then it shot up; these tanks have caved in tops, right?

Kelly,

I do not believe that the problem you are seeing is the result of a bad ground. (I can tell you that this is only about the second time I have said there - Ever.)
I cannot tell you about your black tank, yours is much newer and likely to be different than mine. Mine is as close to flat on top as an old plastic tank could hope to be. The entire tank is only 6-3/4 inches tall (or there abouts - iirc)

There is a test you could try....
You will have to disconnect the monitor panel and look into the connector.
There should be 6 connections, a space and two more connections.
counting from the outside end of the six connections (one diagram has the last of the six omitted) use your meter to measure resistance between pins 4 and 5.
That should be between 3 and 90 ohms. If the tank is half full, it should be close to 45 ohms.
If that works out, the tank sender is good. That means that the instrument is bad.

*** Don't bother doing this now ****
While you have that panel out, look at the back. The instruments are connected by nuts on copper studs. Just for giggles, get out a decent tool, like a 1/4 drive socket, and looses each just a little and tighten it back up. If the connection has gotten bad, this could restore it.

Actually, now that I wrote all that, take the chance if you dare, but it is not likely to fix anything. When the connection to the sender is lost, the pointer will go to full. So, that has little chance to be the problem.

Matt

I have 5 wires going to the sending unit.
White yellow on top, empty soace, black red, 2 empty spaces, purple

I get the same thing switching fresh water with holding tank.

I posted a video and pics to the facebook site because it's easy

Shoot. I didn't know. I posted in classic. There are too many groups

https://www.facebook.com/groups/classicgmcmotorhomes/permalink/974669075990963/