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Radiator change [message #329906] Sun, 11 March 2018 21:13 Go to next message
Jimmy_Bonez is currently offline  Jimmy_Bonez   United States
Messages: 105
Registered: September 2017
Location: NH
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Senior Member
So I've been putting off changing the radiator for a bit now but we were leaving the Hoover Dam and coming out of the canyon the rig started to overheat and leak coolant from somewhere. We stopped at a gas station and let the everything cool down a bit. I threw the rest of the bars leak I had in the top of radiator after I let it cool down and could take the radiator cap off. When I started it back up and got it back to the campground the leaking had pretty much subsided. The stop leak could last a week or we could end up taking another rock or spring another leak in the middle of nowhere and I don't really want that headache. We're currently in Vegas and we're supposed to head towards the Grand Canyon from here tomorrow. I figured I'd reach out here before I started looking for somewhere to get the radiator changed. I know the aluminum radiator is the way to go but it's not in the budget for such an upgrade so a heavy rad it is. Any help would be great guys thank you all again.

Jim DeMellia and Jen Radefeld and our cat Ickis NH natives 1975 GMC “Palm Beach” ,455, her names Linda Full time RVers exploring the beautiful and unusual parts of the country.
Re: Radiator change [message #329907 is a reply to message #329906] Sun, 11 March 2018 21:40 Go to previous messageGo to next message
lqqkatjon is currently offline  lqqkatjon   United States
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Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
Senior Member
Aluminum is not that much more then a properly re-cored radiator. Most old school radiator shops can re-core easily, but it is still 600-800 depending on where in country you go.


If you look in the swap meet, someone has good used re-core for sale, but it is in florida.


A radiator in good shape is a key item for our coaches. Money spent now to make sure it has ability to cool will save many thousands later.



Jon Roche 75 palm beach EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now. St. Cloud, MN http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
Re: [GMCnet] Radiator change [message #329908 is a reply to message #329907] Sun, 11 March 2018 21:48 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jimk is currently offline  jimk   United States
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
Senior Member
Is your Fan Clutch working???

On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 7:40 PM, Jon Roche wrote:

> Aluminum is not that much more then a properly re-cored radiator. Most
> old school radiator shops can re-core easily, but it is still 600-800
> depending on where in country you go.
>
>
> If you look in the swap meet, someone has good used re-core for sale,
> but it is in florida.
>
>
> A radiator in good shape is a key item for our coaches. Money spent now
> to make sure it has ability to cool will save many thousands later.
>
>
> --
> Jon Roche
> 75 palm beach
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>



--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
Re: [GMCnet] Radiator change [message #329909 is a reply to message #329908] Sun, 11 March 2018 22:18 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jimmy_Bonez is currently offline  Jimmy_Bonez   United States
Messages: 105
Registered: September 2017
Location: NH
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Jim to be honest I didn’t check or listen for it when we pulled over. All I could hear was boiling coolant. We were climbing a hill and I haven’t had a car overheat on me in quite some time so momentary panic kicked in. It didn’t help I had 2 backseat drivers in my ear. It’s my birthday and I didn’t want it to be a buzzkill so I’m trying to put it off until the morning.
JimD

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 11, 2018, at 7:48 PM, Jim Kanomata wrote:
>
> Is your Fan Clutch working???
>
>> On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 7:40 PM, Jon Roche wrote:
>>
>> Aluminum is not that much more then a properly re-cored radiator. Most
>> old school radiator shops can re-core easily, but it is still 600-800
>> depending on where in country you go.
>>
>>
>> If you look in the swap meet, someone has good used re-core for sale,
>> but it is in florida.
>>
>>
>> A radiator in good shape is a key item for our coaches. Money spent now
>> to make sure it has ability to cool will save many thousands later.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jon Roche
>> 75 palm beach
>> St. Cloud, MN
>> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Jim Kanomata
> Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
> jimk@appliedairfilters.com
> http://www.appliedgmc.com
> 1-800-752-7502
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

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Jim DeMellia and Jen Radefeld and our cat Ickis NH natives 1975 GMC “Palm Beach” ,455, her names Linda Full time RVers exploring the beautiful and unusual parts of the country.
Re: [GMCnet] Radiator change [message #329910 is a reply to message #329909] Sun, 11 March 2018 22:54 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jimk is currently offline  jimk   United States
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
Senior Member
It can be a thermostate as well.
You should get a Lazor temp gun at the automotive parts and see what is
happening. They cost around $ 30.

On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 8:18 PM, Jim DeMellia
wrote:

> Jim to be honest I didn’t check or listen for it when we pulled over. All
> I could hear was boiling coolant. We were climbing a hill and I haven’t
> had a car overheat on me in quite some time so momentary panic kicked in.
> It didn’t help I had 2 backseat drivers in my ear. It’s my birthday and I
> didn’t want it to be a buzzkill so I’m trying to put it off until the
> morning.
> JimD
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Mar 11, 2018, at 7:48 PM, Jim Kanomata wrote:
>>
>> Is your Fan Clutch working???
>>
>>> On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 7:40 PM, Jon Roche wrote:
>>>
>>> Aluminum is not that much more then a properly re-cored radiator. Most
>>> old school radiator shops can re-core easily, but it is still 600-800
>>> depending on where in country you go.
>>>
>>>
>>> If you look in the swap meet, someone has good used re-core for sale,
>>> but it is in florida.
>>>
>>>
>>> A radiator in good shape is a key item for our coaches. Money spent now
>>> to make sure it has ability to cool will save many thousands later.
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Jon Roche
>>> 75 palm beach
>>> St. Cloud, MN
>>> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Kanomata
>> Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
>> jimk@appliedairfilters.com
>> http://www.appliedgmc.com
>> 1-800-752-7502
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>



--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
Re: Radiator change [message #329912 is a reply to message #329906] Mon, 12 March 2018 11:16 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
Senior Member
I think where Jim K. is headed is you need to find the source or cause of the leak. He is pursuing the idea, or trying to eliminate the idea, that it overheated and boiled out the coolant rather than leaked out on it's own through a hole.

You need to determine if there is a real leak or if it is an over temperature situation. On a cold engine, you can fill the radiator with coolant / water, put the cap back on and start it up. Run the engine for a few minutes and shut it down. Then go look for the leak. Look all over the radiator, all hoses, and also at the bottom of the pump shaft. If that fails to find a leak you can attach a radiator pressure tester to the place where the cap goes on the radiator and pump up the pressure manually. Harbor freight sells these but also any radiator repair shop can do this in a matter of a few minutes.

If all of that fails to find a leak, then Jim K's diagnosis questions about overheating should be followed. Learn where he normal range is on your temperature gauge. If the temp climbs past that range then a look for listen for the fan clutch and observe the temps as suggested with a temp gun.

It comes down to is this a leak or is this an over heating problem?


Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Re: [GMCnet] Radiator change [message #329915 is a reply to message #329912] Mon, 12 March 2018 20:17 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jimmy_Bonez is currently offline  Jimmy_Bonez   United States
Messages: 105
Registered: September 2017
Location: NH
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Senior Member
So I think we have diagnosed the problem and repaired what I could in the parking lot of O’Rileys. I got on the phone with Mike over at the Sirums shop and we talked it thru and the clutch fan was spinning freely and probably not doing a whole lot. Fortunately for us the store had everything we needed. I picked up a fan clutch, thermostat and gasket. 2hrs later after snapping one of the thermostat bolts off and then retapping the hole I think we’re in business. The temp gauge hovers just below the middle line now and stayed there for about an hour of stop and go driving. Couple questions tho. I replaced the thermostat with an OE spec one per O’Rileys computer system. I want to say it was a 195degree unit. Is it normally that high? I’m used to 160-180degress but never that high.
And lastly. My tranny is still not engaging when first starting up. Regardless of its first thing in the morning or after a run to the store. It’s only first gear that does it. The fluids all look to be in order but I’m lost at this point. I did notice that my oil pressure gauge will read higher than normal for a few minutes of driving then when the rig is shifting properly the gauge again stays right around the halfway mark.
Thanks again from the nomads from the northeast trying to stay cool in the deserts of the south west.
JimD and Jen

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 12, 2018, at 9:16 AM, Ken Burton wrote:
>
> I think where Jim K. is headed is you need to find the source or cause of the leak. He is pursuing the idea, or trying to eliminate the idea, that
> it overheated and boiled out the coolant rather than leaked out on it's own through a hole.
>
> You need to determine if there is a real leak or if it is an over temperature situation. On a cold engine, you can fill the radiator with coolant /
> water, put the cap back on and start it up. Run the engine for a few minutes and shut it down. Then go look for the leak. Look all over the
> radiator, all hoses, and also at the bottom of the pump shaft. If that fails to find a leak you can attach a radiator pressure tester to the place
> where the cap goes on the radiator and pump up the pressure manually. Harbor freight sells these but also any radiator repair shop can do this in a
> matter of a few minutes.
>
> If all of that fails to find a leak, then Jim K's diagnosis questions about overheating should be followed. Learn where he normal range is on your
> temperature gauge. If the temp climbs past that range then a look for listen for the fan clutch and observe the temps as suggested with a temp gun.
>
>
> It comes down to is this a leak or is this an over heating problem?
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

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Jim DeMellia and Jen Radefeld and our cat Ickis NH natives 1975 GMC “Palm Beach” ,455, her names Linda Full time RVers exploring the beautiful and unusual parts of the country.
Re: Radiator change [message #329916 is a reply to message #329906] Mon, 12 March 2018 21:00 Go to previous messageGo to next message
lqqkatjon is currently offline  lqqkatjon   United States
Messages: 2324
Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
Senior Member
1st thing to diagnose any tranny issue is to be 100% certain of fluid level. There are instructions on the web somewhere of how to calibrate the dipstick.

2nd is to verify the vacuum line to the transmission modulator is perfect working shape. That is also on web somewhere.



As for thermostat, 195 should be stock. I run a 185 and prefer that. Many opinions on thermostats. An ir gun is a very helpful tool to have to verify how things are working.


Jon Roche 75 palm beach EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now. St. Cloud, MN http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
Re: [GMCnet] Radiator change [message #329923 is a reply to message #329916] Tue, 13 March 2018 00:31 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jimmy_Bonez is currently offline  Jimmy_Bonez   United States
Messages: 105
Registered: September 2017
Location: NH
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Is the vacuum modulator something I could easily? I’m reading over the testing of it now and I’ll try the soapy water test tomorrow. Again on the road so if the part is easily accessible both to buy and change I’ll give it a go.
JimD

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 12, 2018, at 7:00 PM, Jon Roche wrote:
>
> 1st thing to diagnose any tranny issue is to be 100% certain of fluid level. There are instructions on the web somewhere of how to calibrate the
> dipstick.
>
> 2nd is to verify the vacuum line to the transmission modulator is perfect working shape. That is also on web somewhere.
>
>
>
> As for thermostat, 195 should be stock. I run a 185 and prefer that. Many opinions on thermostats. An ir gun is a very helpful tool to have to
> verify how things are working.
> --
> Jon Roche
> 75 palm beach
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

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Jim DeMellia and Jen Radefeld and our cat Ickis NH natives 1975 GMC “Palm Beach” ,455, her names Linda Full time RVers exploring the beautiful and unusual parts of the country.
Re: [GMCnet] Radiator change [message #329924 is a reply to message #329923] Tue, 13 March 2018 00:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jimk is currently offline  jimk   United States
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
Senior Member
Jim,
Your not going to get any result on the Vac. Mod using bubble detector.
Use a cheap plastic vaccume pump, or just use your mouth with a tubing and
suck on it.

On Mon, Mar 12, 2018 at 10:31 PM, Jim DeMellia
wrote:

> Is the vacuum modulator something I could easily? I’m reading over the
> testing of it now and I’ll try the soapy water test tomorrow. Again on the
> road so if the part is easily accessible both to buy and change I’ll give
> it a go.
> JimD
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Mar 12, 2018, at 7:00 PM, Jon Roche wrote:
>>
>> 1st thing to diagnose any tranny issue is to be 100% certain of fluid
> level. There are instructions on the web somewhere of how to calibrate the
>> dipstick.
>>
>> 2nd is to verify the vacuum line to the transmission modulator is
> perfect working shape. That is also on web somewhere.
>>
>>
>>
>> As for thermostat, 195 should be stock. I run a 185 and prefer that.
> Many opinions on thermostats. An ir gun is a very helpful tool to have
> to
>> verify how things are working.
>> --
>> Jon Roche
>> 75 palm beach
>> St. Cloud, MN
>> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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>



--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
Re: [GMCnet] Radiator change [message #329927 is a reply to message #329924] Tue, 13 March 2018 05:55 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
Senior Member
On the thermostat temp, that is always an argument here. I believe 195 was the original, but I run a 180. Replacing one tomorrow and it will be a 180. I asked Dick Paterson this question years ago and he said 180 because anything you can do to keep the engine and trans a little cooler is a good thing.

The thermostat sets the normal running temp but does not prevent overheating from other causes.

On the engine I am working on the engine would not come up to normal temps. The highest temp I could get was 98 F. read at the thermostat housing and intake manifold. I picked up another Robert Shaw type 180 thermostat from NAPA. My daughter pulled the housing yesterday and she found the 180 thermostat that was installed had fallen into the intake manifold. This coach is always full of surprises. Some previous PO had installed a thermostat that was the wrong diameter. I have never seen that before.

I wire brushed the housing to remove all the rust, then bead blasted it and gave it a coat of paint. It looks brand new now except I could not find my blue GM engine paint so it is now gray. I'll install it tomorrow after I test the replacement in a pan of hot water. I have run into too many bad new thermostats.


Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Re: [GMCnet] Radiator change [message #329952 is a reply to message #329927] Tue, 13 March 2018 19:01 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jimmy_Bonez is currently offline  Jimmy_Bonez   United States
Messages: 105
Registered: September 2017
Location: NH
Karma: 0
Senior Member
A little update. We left Las Vegas and drove out to the Valley of Fire state park. The rig did go until we climbed a bit of hill then the gauge jumped up to about 3/4temp. Didn’t get any further than that. Coolant boiled for a minute but there is water in the system as well as coolant from when we overheated the other day. The temp reading on the thermostat housing was 220. The hose to the radiator was 185. I checked the new clutch fan with the motor off and it’ll only spin maybe an 1/8 of a turn compared to the free spinning it was doing the other day. Not sure what the readings should be on the IR gun but that’s what it was when we stopped at our campsite. Thanks again guys
JimD

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 13, 2018, at 3:55 AM, Ken Burton wrote:
>
> On the thermostat temp, that is always an argument here. I believe 195 was the original, but I run a 180. Replacing one tomorrow and it will be a
> 180. I asked Dick Paterson this question years ago and he said 180 because anything you can do to keep the engine and trans a little cooler is a
> good thing.
>
> The thermostat sets the normal running temp but does not prevent overheating from other causes.
>
> On the engine I am working on the engine would not come up to normal temps. The highest temp I could get was 98 F. read at the thermostat housing and
> intake manifold. I picked up another Robert Shaw type 180 thermostat from NAPA. My daughter pulled the housing yesterday and she found the 180
> thermostat that was installed had fallen into the intake manifold. This coach is always full of surprises. Some previous PO had installed a
> thermostat that was the wrong diameter. I have never seen that before.
>
> I wire brushed the housing to remove all the rust, then bead blasted it and gave it a coat of paint. It looks brand new now except I could not find
> my blue GM engine paint so it is now gray. I'll install it tomorrow after I test the replacement in a pan of hot water. I have run into too many bad
> new thermostats.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

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Jim DeMellia and Jen Radefeld and our cat Ickis NH natives 1975 GMC “Palm Beach” ,455, her names Linda Full time RVers exploring the beautiful and unusual parts of the country.
Re: [GMCnet] Radiator change [message #329966 is a reply to message #329952] Wed, 14 March 2018 07:52 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
Senior Member
Jimmy_Bonez wrote on Tue, 13 March 2018 20:01
A little update. We left Las Vegas and drove out to the Valley of Fire state park. The rig did go until we climbed a bit of hill then the gauge jumped up to about 3/4temp. Didn't get any further than that. Coolant boiled for a minute but there is water in the system as well as coolant from when we overheated the other day. The temp reading on the thermostat housing was 220. The hose to the radiator was 185. I checked the new clutch fan with the motor off and it'll only spin maybe an 1/8 of a turn compared to the free spinning it was doing the other day. Not sure what the readings should be on the IR gun but that's what it was when we stopped at our campsite. Thanks again guys
JimD

Jim,

That is way too much disparity between the T'stat housing and the radiator tank. This has three possible causes:
1 - The thermostat has failed closed
2 - The coolant pump is non-functional
3 - There is some blockage in the radiator circuit.

While all three are real possibilities, only number one is something you can tackle outside of a shop. I suggest that at the start of the day and while it is still cool, you drop some of the coolant into a clean container and remove the thermostat altogether. While it is not advised to run this way (long story, but believe it), for the short term you should be OK.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: [GMCnet] Radiator change [message #329976 is a reply to message #329966] Wed, 14 March 2018 11:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jimmy_Bonez is currently offline  Jimmy_Bonez   United States
Messages: 105
Registered: September 2017
Location: NH
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Matt when you say the short term how long are we talking. We’re just outside Las Vegas and we’re supposed to head to the Grand Canyon, but weather isn’t going to be on our side for the next couple weeks going that way. So the plan now is to just B-line it to San Jose/San Fran area 568 miles from where we are. The accessibility of service shops that way is in our favor as well. So I’m sure I’ll be calling JimK or Manny in our travel to check there schedules.
Thanks JimD
Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 14, 2018, at 5:52 AM, Matt Colie wrote:
>
> Jimmy_Bonez wrote on Tue, 13 March 2018 20:01
>> A little update. We left Las Vegas and drove out to the Valley of Fire state park. The rig did go until we climbed a bit of hill then the gauge
>> jumped up to about 3/4temp. Didn't get any further than that. Coolant boiled for a minute but there is water in the system as well as coolant from
>> when we overheated the other day. The temp reading on the thermostat housing was 220. The hose to the radiator was 185. I checked the new clutch fan
>> with the motor off and it'll only spin maybe an 1/8 of a turn compared to the free spinning it was doing the other day. Not sure what the readings
>> should be on the IR gun but that's what it was when we stopped at our campsite. Thanks again guys
>> JimD
>
> Jim,
>
> That is way too much disparity between the T'stat housing and the radiator tank. This has three possible causes:
> 1 - The thermostat has failed closed
> 2 - The coolant pump is non-functional
> 3 - There is some blockage in the radiator circuit.
>
> While all three are real possibilities, only number one is something you can tackle outside of a shop. I suggest that at the start of the day and
> while it is still cool, you drop some of the coolant into a clean container and remove the thermostat altogether. While it is not advised to run this
> way (long story, but believe it), for the short term you should be OK.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

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Jim DeMellia and Jen Radefeld and our cat Ickis NH natives 1975 GMC “Palm Beach” ,455, her names Linda Full time RVers exploring the beautiful and unusual parts of the country.
Re: [GMCnet] Radiator change [message #329993 is a reply to message #329976] Wed, 14 March 2018 19:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
Senior Member
Thread preserved - sorry

Jimmy,

The problem is that the engine without any restriction to flow may do something called "channeling". This is a situation well understood by hydorlosists and just about nobody else. What it means is the the coolant flow might get to a flow with a high enough Reynolds number (kind of like flow rate) that causes it to not mix with the laminar boundary layer near the surfaces you are trying to cool. It just goes right on by...

This is why the late Joe Mondello used to ship the engines he built with just a restrictor plate.

If you remove the t'stat and run that way, just use the thinking thing that is so common among GMC owners and so rare in the general population.

When you get the t'stat out, you can do the old Pot on a Stove test. Then you will know if it is opening when it should. This is all stuff that you can handle. You would seem to have an IQ over 80 and be literate, that puts you two ahead of most of those people that you might end up paying to do this.

Can you do a 600 mile run this way? With care, yes. If you think you have trouble, turn on the cab heater. That is a by-pass circuit, but it is only open when heating.

Matt


Jimmy_Bonez wrote on Wed, 14 March 2018 12:26
Matt when you say the short term how long are we talking. We're just outside Las Vegas and we're supposed to head to the Grand Canyon, but weather isn't going to be on our side for the next couple weeks going that way. So the plan now is to just B-line it to San Jose/San Fran area 568 miles from where we are. The accessibility of service shops that way is in our favor as well. So I'm sure I'll be calling JimK or Manny in our travel to check there schedules.
Thanks JimD
Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 14, 2018, at 5:52 AM, Matt Colie wrote:
>
> Jimmy_Bonez wrote on Tue, 13 March 2018 20:01
>> A little update. We left Las Vegas and drove out to the Valley of Fire state park. The rig did go until we climbed a bit of hill then the gauge
>> jumped up to about 3/4temp. Didn't get any further than that. Coolant boiled for a minute but there is water in the system as well as coolant from
>> when we overheated the other day. The temp reading on the thermostat housing was 220. The hose to the radiator was 185. I checked the new clutch fan
>> with the motor off and it'll only spin maybe an 1/8 of a turn compared to the free spinning it was doing the other day. Not sure what the readings
>> should be on the IR gun but that's what it was when we stopped at our campsite. Thanks again guys
>> JimD
>
> Jim,
>
> That is way too much disparity between the T'stat housing and the radiator tank. This has three possible causes:
> 1 - The thermostat has failed closed
> 2 - The coolant pump is non-functional
> 3 - There is some blockage in the radiator circuit.
>
> While all three are real possibilities, only number one is something you can tackle outside of a shop. I suggest that at the start of the day and
> while it is still cool, you drop some of the coolant into a clean container and remove the thermostat altogether. While it is not advised to run this
> way (long story, but believe it), for the short term you should be OK.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

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Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: [GMCnet] Radiator change [message #329997 is a reply to message #329993] Wed, 14 March 2018 20:47 Go to previous message
Jimmy_Bonez is currently offline  Jimmy_Bonez   United States
Messages: 105
Registered: September 2017
Location: NH
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Matt thanks for getting back to me. Here’s how the day went. I left the thermostat in when we left the campground thinking maybe it was fluke the first time since I drove it for a few hours without issue and then started to overheat. Well I was very wrong. We got 15mins down the highway and I could smell coolant no sooner did I pull over the engine shutdown. Let it cool down. Pulled the thermostat, topped of the fluid and started back down the road. Drove 55mph 300 miles with zero issue. We stopped a handful of times just to make sure we weren’t overheating anything and everything seemed normal. I figured it was a fairly mild day temp wise and we weren’t going to be sitting in any traffic(hopefully) so there was going be a decent amount of cool air all day and she ran fine all day. Funny you said that about the heater. We were driving and Jen asked me why it was warm in the cab felt like the heat was on. I told her it was. Gotta keep the motor cool. She wasn’t thrilled but we managed. Haha. We’re going to keep chugging along tomorrow till we hit the coast and get to a shop to do the radiator. Hopefully the rest will keep going smoothly.
JimD

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 14, 2018, at 5:45 PM, Matt Colie wrote:
>
> Thread preserved - sorry
>
> Jimmy,
>
> The problem is that the engine without any restriction to flow may do something called "channeling". This is a situation well understood by
> hydorlosists and just about nobody else. What it means is the the coolant flow might get to a flow with a high enough Reynolds number (kind of like
> flow rate) that causes it to not mix with the laminar boundary layer near the surfaces you are trying to cool. It just goes right on by...
>
> This is why the late Joe Mondello used to ship the engines he built with just a restrictor plate.
>
> If you remove the t'stat and run that way, just use the thinking thing that is so common among GMC owners and so rare in the general population.
>
> When you get the t'stat out, you can do the old Pot on a Stove test. Then you will know if it is opening when it should. This is all stuff that you
> can handle. You would seem to have an IQ over 80 and be literate, that puts you two ahead of most of those people that you might end up paying to do
> this.
>
> Can you do a 600 mile run this way? With care, yes. If you think you have trouble, turn on the cab heater. That is a by-pass circuit, but it is
> only open when heating.
>
> Matt
>
>
> Jimmy_Bonez wrote on Wed, 14 March 2018 12:26
>> Matt when you say the short term how long are we talking. We're just outside Las Vegas and we're supposed to head to the Grand Canyon, but weather
>> isn't going to be on our side for the next couple weeks going that way. So the plan now is to just B-line it to San Jose/San Fran area 568 miles
>> from where we are. The accessibility of service shops that way is in our favor as well. So I'm sure I'll be calling JimK or Manny in our travel to
>> check there schedules.
>> Thanks JimD
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Mar 14, 2018, at 5:52 AM, Matt Colie wrote:
>>>
>>> Jimmy_Bonez wrote on Tue, 13 March 2018 20:01
>>>> A little update. We left Las Vegas and drove out to the Valley of Fire state park. The rig did go until we climbed a bit of hill then the
>> gauge
>>>> jumped up to about 3/4temp. Didn't get any further than that. Coolant boiled for a minute but there is water in the system as well as coolant
>> from
>>>> when we overheated the other day. The temp reading on the thermostat housing was 220. The hose to the radiator was 185. I checked the new
>> clutch fan
>>>> with the motor off and it'll only spin maybe an 1/8 of a turn compared to the free spinning it was doing the other day. Not sure what the
>> readings
>>>> should be on the IR gun but that's what it was when we stopped at our campsite. Thanks again guys
>>>> JimD
>>>
>>> Jim,
>>>
>>> That is way too much disparity between the T'stat housing and the radiator tank. This has three possible causes:
>>> 1 - The thermostat has failed closed
>>> 2 - The coolant pump is non-functional
>>> 3 - There is some blockage in the radiator circuit.
>>>
>>> While all three are real possibilities, only number one is something you can tackle outside of a shop. I suggest that at the start of the
>>> day and
>>> while it is still cool, you drop some of the coolant into a clean container and remove the thermostat altogether. While it is not advised to
>>> run this
>>> way (long story, but believe it), for the short term you should be OK.
>>>
>>> Matt
>>> --
>>> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
>>> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
>>> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
>>> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

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Jim DeMellia and Jen Radefeld and our cat Ickis NH natives 1975 GMC “Palm Beach” ,455, her names Linda Full time RVers exploring the beautiful and unusual parts of the country.
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