Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Newby Question - Grease points - '73 - 26" (How to Grease - '73 - 26")
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Re: [GMCnet] Newby Question - Grease points - '73 - 26" [message #320144 is a reply to message #320142] |
Sat, 08 July 2017 07:53 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912 Registered: July 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Wally,
X-7428?
Or is that a typo for X-7425?
Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@list.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Wally Anderson
Sent: Saturday, July 8, 2017 9:33 PM
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Newby Question - Grease points - '73 - 26"
73melloyello wrote on Fri, 07 July 2017 21:02
> Hi Guys, looking for some information regarding how to grease my Mello Yello. I found some info @ GMC Net. just want to make sure
that these are
> all the points. Some mentioned it's a good idea to keep these greased up, since we going on a road trip from LA - Bend, OR. I
would like to get this
> done before.
>
> Any help / input / tricks are welcome :)
>
> This is what I found in 2 manuals ..
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7041/medium/X-7428_GMC_Motorhome_Planned_Maintenance_-_Grease_Points.png
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7041/GMC_P30-Chassis-Manual_-_Grease_Joint.png
>
> Thanks in advance ..
The X-7428 manual is the one to use.
Welcome aboard!
--
Wally Anderson
Omaha NE
75 Glenbrook
Megasquirt III injection
Bob Stone hydroBOOOOST
Manny reaction arm system
Branscombe Kelsey Hayes park brake
http://wallyandsue.blogspot.com/
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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Re: Newby Question - Grease points - '73 - 26" [message #320147 is a reply to message #320134] |
Sat, 08 July 2017 08:35 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547 Registered: March 2007 Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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73melloyello wrote on Fri, 07 July 2017 22:02Hi Guys, looking for some information regarding how to grease my Mello Yello. I found some info @ GMC Net. just want to make sure that these are all the points. Some mentioned it's a good idea to keep these greased up, since we going on a road trip from LA - Bend, OR. I would like to get this done before.
Any help / input / tricks are welcome
This is what I found in 2 manuals .. (Only use the TZE)
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7041/medium/X-7428_GMC_Motorhome_Planned_Maintenance_-_Grease_Points.png
Thanks in advance ..
Marc,
My coach has a grease fitting where the relay lever pivots on the relay bar. All together there are 14 in the front and the 4 at the bogies.
Note 1 - Get a good grease gun. I own 6 of them and two are just for the coach - pretty much. One is for marine things and so has a special grease for those. I struggled for a long time until I settled on a Lincoln 1133 or 1134 grease gun. These are a pistol grip gun that leaves one hand free to hold the coupler on the grease fitting and has a flexible whip so you can get it all the places it needs to get to do the job right. The other coach grease gun is also a Lincoln, but decades old and has a straight pipe and I find that easier for greasing the bogies. I always carry that one in the coach wrapped in rags in a plastic bag because it does bleed and that is messy. It does not bleed much anymore, but I have a 23 with no storage that I can afford to get greasy.
Note 2 - These days the all others are all loaded with Valvoline SynPower. This is a synthetic grease with molybdenum sulfide. It is an extreme pressure lubricant and I have proven its value in my own machinery. It is not cheap, but it is still cheaper than replacing parts. (No Dutch jokes here, I'm married to one.)
Note 3 - I grease everything every 3000 miles as was recommended in original owner's manual and was typical of vehicles of the period. One thing I try to over grease is the bogie pins. Older coaches have smaller pins that are less well lubricated, so I hit them about every 1000 miles - even if we are on the road. It may end up longer some times, like the 1500 miles to Shawnee, I just hit them before we departed for home.
Note 4 - Do Not buy a power grease gun. (This is a lesson learned from another owner.) A powered grease gun will not let you feel the grease going in and if it is not (there can be several reasons), you may not know until there is a critical failure.
Last Note: All ways do the complete walk around. Pull the dipstick. (Transmissions don't consume lubricant, just leak, but should be checked regularly.) Look inside everything and check the latches and locks. Be sure everything that is there is secure and where it belongs. Then, start the engine an listen for new noises. Coaches may not have a soul, but they will talk to you and it is very much worth your while to listen. It may be a complaint, a warning or just saying thank you for taking care of me.
There is an old saying in my world... Watermen and their boats, they take good care of each other.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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Re: [GMCnet] Newby Question - Grease points - '73 - 26" [message #320150 is a reply to message #320147] |
Sat, 08 July 2017 09:24 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912 Registered: July 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Matt,
Sorry Mate, I'm going to disagree with you on the power grease gun. I would make the following statement; if you buy a power grease
gun don't be fooled into thinking that the noise of the pneumatically powered piston means you are injecting grease; make sure you
see grease flowing out of whatever you are greasing.
I have two power grease guns from Harbor Freight and they both work well.
One of them is for Mobil 1 the other Valvoline Synpower.
Dave Lenzi supplied the hubs and knuckles on Double Trouble serviced with Mobil 1 and I followed his lead. It is easy to tell when
you've got clean fresh grease in the bearings as the color of the Mobil 1 changes from a dark to a bright red.
I have a set of Dave's hubs and knuckles to install on my new Kingsley and I'll service them with Valvoline Synpower and see if
there is a change in the color of the grease when you've got fresh grease coming out.
Something else I've noted; if you store the grease in the guns with spring pressure on it you will cause the grease to separate.
Both Mobil 1 and Valvoline Synpower do it.
I take the cartridges out, put the plastic cover that comes with the cartridge on one end and fold up some aluminum foil, wrap it
around the other end and put a rubber band around it to keep it in place.
Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@list.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Matt Colie
Sent: Saturday, July 8, 2017 11:35 PM
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Newby Question - Grease points - '73 - 26"
Marc,
My coach has a grease fitting where the relay lever pivots on the relay bar. All together there are 14 in the front and the 4 at
the bogies.
Note 1 - Get a good grease gun. I own 6 of them and two are just for the coach - pretty much. One is for marine things and so has
a special grease for those. I struggled for a long time until I settled on a Lincoln 1133 or 1134 grease gun. These are a pistol
grip gun that leaves one hand free to hold the coupler on the grease fitting and has a flexible whip so you can get it all the
places it needs to get to do the job right. The other
coach grease gun is also a Lincoln, but decades old and has a straight pipe and I find that easier for greasing the bogies. I
always carry that one in the coach wrapped in rags in a plastic bag because it does bleed and that is messy. It does not bleed much
anymore, but I have a 23 with no storage that I can afford to get greasy.
Note 2 - These days the all others are all loaded with Valvoline SynPower. This is a synthetic grease with molybdenum sulfide. It
is an extreme pressure lubricant and I have proven its value in my own machinery. It is not cheap, but it is still cheaper than
replacing parts. (No Dutch jokes here, I'm married to one.)
Note 3 - I grease everything every 3000 miles as was recommended in original owner's manual and was typical of vehicles of the
period. One thing I try to over grease is the bogie pins. Older coaches have smaller pins that are less well lubricated, so I hit
them about every 1000 miles - even if we are on the road. It may end up longer some times, like the 1500 miles to Shawnee, I just
hit them before we departed for home.
Note 4 - Do Not buy a power grease gun. (This is a lesson learned from another owner.) A powered grease gun will not let you feel
the grease going in and if it is not (there can be several reasons), you may not know until there is a critical failure.
Last Note: All ways do the complete walk around. Pull the dipstick. (Transmissions don't consume lubricant, just leak, but should
be checked regularly.) Look inside everything and check the latches and locks. Be sure everything that is there is secure and where
it belongs. Then, start the engine an listen for new noises. Coaches may not have a soul, but they will talk to you and it is very
much worth your while to listen. It may be a
complaint, a warning or just saying thank you for taking care of me.
There is an old saying in my world... Watermen and their boats, they take good care of each other.
Matt
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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Re: [GMCnet] Newby Question - Grease points - '73 - 26" [message #320175 is a reply to message #320157] |
Sat, 08 July 2017 18:39 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912 Registered: July 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Wally,
Thanks for clarifying that, I found it on the GMCMI website and downloaded it.
Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@list.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Wally Anderson
Sent: Sunday, July 9, 2017 3:50 AM
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Newby Question - Grease points - '73 - 26"
This
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7041/medium/X-7428_GMC_Motorhome_Planned_Maintenance_-_Grease_Points.png
or
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7041/medium/X-7428_GMC_Motorhome_Planned_Maintenance_-_Grease_Points.png
--
Wally
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GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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Re: Newby Question - Grease points - '73 - 26" [message #320180 is a reply to message #320134] |
Sat, 08 July 2017 19:46 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447 Registered: October 2006 Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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Depending on your PO and if they did some replacement of parts you may have up front 2 more fittings than when they left the factory in Pontiac. That would be the base of the idler arm and where the relay connects to the center link. In the back you could have 8 fittings instead of the factory 4 if someone added boggie greasers which are supposed get the grease in the pin closer to where it is needed. Be sure your engine is running in Park when you check the trans level or it will appear too high when it is not and if on Full line will be Under filled. Running and warm it should be at full mark.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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Re: Newby Question - Grease points - '73 - 26" [message #320190 is a reply to message #320147] |
Sun, 09 July 2017 00:15 |
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Dutch Marc
Messages: 101 Registered: March 2017 Location: Full TIme Nomad
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Hi matt, thanks so much for your info.. Went online & ordered the lincoln 1134 @ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYDZ8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Got 3 tubes of grease, Since I have to wait for the gun to get here, I decided to get a grease gun from Harbor Frieght for $16 just to start the job tomorrow.
Thinking about trying to get on the same plan @ 3000 & 1000 miles... Have to see how well it goes tomorrow and go from there :-/
Great tip on keeping grease gun + grease inside while on trips...
Grtx Marc
Matt Colie wrote on Sat, 08 July 2017 06:3573melloyello wrote on Fri, 07 July 2017 22:02Hi Guys, looking for some information regarding how to grease my Mello Yello. I found some info @ GMC Net. just want to make sure that these are all the points. Some mentioned it's a good idea to keep these greased up, since we going on a road trip from LA - Bend, OR. I would like to get this done before.
Any help / input / tricks are welcome
This is what I found in 2 manuals .. (Only use the TZE)
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7041/medium/X-7428_GMC_Motorhome_Planned_Maintenance_-_Grease_Points.png
Thanks in advance ..
Marc,
My coach has a grease fitting where the relay lever pivots on the relay bar. All together there are 14 in the front and the 4 at the bogies.
Note 1 - Get a good grease gun. I own 6 of them and two are just for the coach - pretty much. One is for marine things and so has a special grease for those. I struggled for a long time until I settled on a Lincoln 1133 or 1134 grease gun. These are a pistol grip gun that leaves one hand free to hold the coupler on the grease fitting and has a flexible whip so you can get it all the places it needs to get to do the job right. The other coach grease gun is also a Lincoln, but decades old and has a straight pipe and I find that easier for greasing the bogies. I always carry that one in the coach wrapped in rags in a plastic bag because it does bleed and that is messy. It does not bleed much anymore, but I have a 23 with no storage that I can afford to get greasy.
Note 2 - These days the all others are all loaded with Valvoline SynPower. This is a synthetic grease with molybdenum sulfide. It is an extreme pressure lubricant and I have proven its value in my own machinery. It is not cheap, but it is still cheaper than replacing parts. (No Dutch jokes here, I'm married to one.)
Note 3 - I grease everything every 3000 miles as was recommended in original owner's manual and was typical of vehicles of the period. One thing I try to over grease is the bogie pins. Older coaches have smaller pins that are less well lubricated, so I hit them about every 1000 miles - even if we are on the road. It may end up longer some times, like the 1500 miles to Shawnee, I just hit them before we departed for home.
Note 4 - Do Not buy a power grease gun. (This is a lesson learned from another owner.) A powered grease gun will not let you feel the grease going in and if it is not (there can be several reasons), you may not know until there is a critical failure.
Last Note: All ways do the complete walk around. Pull the dipstick. (Transmissions don't consume lubricant, just leak, but should be checked regularly.) Look inside everything and check the latches and locks. Be sure everything that is there is secure and where it belongs. Then, start the engine an listen for new noises. Coaches may not have a soul, but they will talk to you and it is very much worth your while to listen. It may be a complaint, a warning or just saying thank you for taking care of me.
There is an old saying in my world... Watermen and their boats, they take good care of each other.
Matt
1973 26' Canyon Land (Mello Yello) (TZE063v101302)
Full Time GMC Nomad ('98 NL 2 USA)
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Re: Newby Question - Grease points - '73 - 26" [message #320195 is a reply to message #320192] |
Sun, 09 July 2017 06:02 |
tphipps
Messages: 3005 Registered: August 2004 Location: Spanish Fort, AL
Karma: 9
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Locking the air bag line at the bag, removes that piece of the rear suspension from any input or output from the air system.
Spray your air bag with soapy water and look for bubbles.
Correct rear height is measured by the top of the slot in the frame located behind the rearmost wheel. Measurement is 11 3/4 inches to the ground. Yes, the properly set ride height has the coach sloping to the rear.
Tom, MS II
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
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Re: Newby Question - Grease points - '73 - 26" [message #320199 is a reply to message #320134] |
Sun, 09 July 2017 09:07 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447 Registered: October 2006 Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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Cut a 1"x1" stick or dowel rod to the 11 3/4 or 11 7/8 (I think that is book spec) and keep it in the compartment under the drivers seat. That way you can check height each time you do your walk around inspection.
On the transmission fliud level on GM vehicles. Drive the vehicle a couple miles, pull over and leave running in park on level surface. Open hatch and pull and wipe trans dipstick on left side of engine. Reinsert and pull and read stick. Should be at Full Hot mark. Reinsert stick and shut off and secure hatch if level ok. If low add Dexron through dipstick tube using long transmission funnel and recheck by above procedure. Don't add more than 1/3 qt at a time without rechecking to prevent overfilling.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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Re: Newby Question - Grease points - '73 - 26" [message #320209 is a reply to message #320192] |
Sun, 09 July 2017 11:14 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547 Registered: March 2007 Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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[quote title=73melloyello wrote on Sun, 09 July 2017 01:36]Hi Matt, thanks for all this info. As a newby and non mechanic I am a bit confused and worried now.
Not sure what you mean with some terms & info in your post. Could you or some1 please explain ...
>>>> Be sure your engine is running in Park when you check the trans level or it will appear too high when it is not and if on Full line will be Under filled. Running and warm it should be at full mark <<<
Running & in park I get /// Trans level = to level the MH correct? I just found out the other day that I have a leak in my system, My left side air?? seems to be losing air ... but I have the manual shut off valves installed when I got new airbag.. So I pump them up and lock them while driving.. Not sure if this is the correct way? Do they need to be open to auto adjust during the drive? Maybe this should for another post ?
So how do I find out what height to set it to?
Many thanks ...
Marc,
First off, just ask here and someone will be glad to explain. Nobody here was born knowing what we know and we all agree with the Einstien version of "If you can't explain it to your grandmother, you don't understand it."
So, About checking the transmission fluid.
Problem: A sitting still transmission drains some of the working fluid back to the pan. That means that checking the level indicator (stick) at this time may give a high report that is false and even can be dangerously so.
Those that understand this, start the main engine and move through all (or at least most) of the gear positions while the main engine is at idle and even cold (that does have some effect, but it is not huge) . I have not found that the vehicle attitude makes little difference here.
You have a '73... Let's just say that I have some experience with this air system....
Before you get frustrated, pull the control valves out of the dash (4 screws) to where you can see them. With the air system at full pressure, do the soap bubble test there and be sure to cover the valve body joint. If (when) this blows bubbles, order the rebuild kit from JimK (30$us). While you are waiting for that, hunt up some Loctite 567 and some 400 Wet and Dry sandpaper (may have to find an auto paint store). The 567 will cost 10$us for a 6ml tube, but it is worth it.
When you open the valves, the gaskets usually tear, so clean off the castings and disassemble the valves. Tape the 400 paper to a hard flat surface (I use my saw table) and clean the casting surfaces by scrubbing them gently on the 400 paper until the show the same finish all over. This has to be done because the valve bodies are a cheap die cast material that has terrible creep. (The same thing often happens to old carburetors.) This may take a while, but be patient as the result is worth the effort.
When you are ready to reassemble the valves, get all the springs and O-rings in place and then put just the thinnest bead of 567 on your newly polished edge. It has to go inside the screw holes. Watch for the orientation lumps and drop the gasket in place and try to juggle the body halves together. A little sliding here will not matter and may help.
Here comes the only warning:
When you get the body fasteners tight, there should be some of the excess 567 around the body joint. Wipe it clean now. That stuff gets all over everything.
The 567 is needed because bonded cork is just not a good air gasket for this design. The cut cork surface allows too much micro-seal level leakage across the open cells of the cork. This and the low fastener load (we can't fix) and the joint distortion you did fix will make this a good joint.
Does he know what he is rambling about?
My coach can sit for weeks on the air alone and not squat. I do have a leak in the air system some place because the compressor always starts when she has been sitting a while. I haven't bothered with stop valves at the airsprings. (I do carry schrader valves and a back up pump.)
As to what height to set to, I like KenH's blocks a lot. You can cut a pair and carry them as part of your parking dunage (that keeps our coach from shaking when when the dogs move at night). I'm planning to cut up a set real soon here. I like his better than what I have.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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Re: Newby Question - Grease points - '73 - 26" [message #320232 is a reply to message #320209] |
Sun, 09 July 2017 16:38 |
Hal StClair
Messages: 971 Registered: March 2013 Location: Rio Rancho NM
Karma: -12
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I do as Ken except not near as 'purdy' as his. I just take a 1"x2" and cut it the same as his and it's small enough to fit most anywhere. I have 4"x4" blocks cut as his for setting ride heights in the rear but leave them at home where they can be easily 'lost' in my junk and have to be replaced.
Hal
"I enjoy talking to you. Your mind appeals to me. It resembles my own mind, except you happen to be insane."
1977 Royale 101348,
1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,
1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout,
Rio Rancho, NM
[Updated on: Sun, 09 July 2017 16:38] Report message to a moderator
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Re: Newby Question - Grease points - '73 - 26" [message #320237 is a reply to message #320134] |
Sun, 09 July 2017 18:50 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447 Registered: October 2006 Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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I just check right side, eyeball from the rear for level, I also compare R / L by fingers count that fit above tire to body and how tight. That should be good for + or - an 1/8".
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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