Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Removing Side Molding (How to remove side molding)
Removing Side Molding [message #313736] |
Fri, 24 February 2017 13:28 |
Paul
Messages: 12 Registered: December 2014 Location: Lynnwood WA
Karma: 1
|
Junior Member |
|
|
I have some small leaks coming in at the waste-line side molding. This is a '73 23'. I have gutted the interior, so am pretty sure I've traced the moisture to this seam, where aluminum meets fiberglass. It came to me with the rubber molding already removed, exposing just the bare metal backing (so apparently PO knew there were leaks here and thought about digging into it).
It appears to me that some renovations have removed this molding altogether? I can see where this would make repainting go smoother. Some have replaced with a more refined molding?
So my question is, do I just start drilling out the rivets (after unscrewing side lights, endcaps, etc) until the molding comes off? Then start bondo-ing the seam?
Then, any recommendations on replacing the molding with something more refined, or leaving it smooth? (I lean toward smooth).
Paul
Paul & Carolynn Lynnwood WA
'73 23' I don't know the model. Mid-bath.
Presently gutted. Installed One-Ton FrontEnd.
|
|
|
Re: [GMCnet] Removing Side Molding [message #313738 is a reply to message #313736] |
Fri, 24 February 2017 15:11 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797 Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
|
Senior Member |
|
|
There is no way to french that seam away to where it will not reveal itself
later with a crack. Which you will then have to fix again or cover with a
molding. The simplest permanent fix would be to clean the seam, apply new
flexible seam sealant and re install some type of molding to cover it.
Sully
77 eleganza 2
Seattle
On Fri, Feb 24, 2017 at 11:29 AM Paul Sager wrote:
> I have some small leaks coming in at the waste-line side molding. This is
> a '73 23'. I have gutted the interior, so am pretty sure I've traced the
> moisture to this seam, where aluminum meets fiberglass. It came to me with
> the rubber molding already removed, exposing just the bare metal backing
> (so apparently PO knew there were leaks here and thought about digging
> into it).
>
> It appears to me that some renovations have removed this molding
> altogether? I can see where this would make repainting go smoother. Some
> have
> replaced with a more refined molding?
>
> So my question is, do I just start drilling out the rivets (after
> unscrewing side lights, endcaps, etc) until the molding comes off? Then
> start
> bondo-ing the seam?
>
> Then, any recommendations on replacing the molding with something more
> refined, or leaving it smooth? (I lean toward smooth).
>
> Paul
>
> --
> Paul & Carolynn Lynnwood WA
> '73 23' I don't know the model. Mid-bath.
> Presently gutted. Installed One-Ton FrontEnd.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
|
|
|
Re: [GMCnet] Removing Side Molding [message #313760 is a reply to message #313738] |
Fri, 24 February 2017 23:11 |
powwerjon
Messages: 849 Registered: March 2013
Karma: -2
|
Senior Member |
|
|
The best way to redo the seam on the early coaches up to mid to late 76 models is the use 2” by 1/8” thick aluminum strips to make it look like the later coaches. The molding has no practical purpose other than to cover the seam. Without the molding the coach IMHO looks much better.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/77-gmc-exterior/p37090-mvc-014s1.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/77-gmc-exterior/p37089-mvc-013s2.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/77-gmc-exterior/p37083-mvc-007s1.html
J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
Newsletter Editor/Publisher
Tech Editor
78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
> On Feb 24, 2017, at 2:11 PM, Todd Sullivan wrote:
>
> There is no way to french that seam away to where it will not reveal itself
> later with a crack. Which you will then have to fix again or cover with a
> molding. The simplest permanent fix would be to clean the seam, apply new
> flexible seam sealant and re install some type of molding to cover it.
>
> Sully
> 77 eleganza 2
> Seattle
> On Fri, Feb 24, 2017 at 11:29 AM Paul Sager wrote:
>
>> I have some small leaks coming in at the waste-line side molding. This is
>> a '73 23'. I have gutted the interior, so am pretty sure I've traced the
>> moisture to this seam, where aluminum meets fiberglass. It came to me with
>> the rubber molding already removed, exposing just the bare metal backing
>> (so apparently PO knew there were leaks here and thought about digging
>> into it).
>>
>> It appears to me that some renovations have removed this molding
>> altogether? I can see where this would make repainting go smoother. Some
>> have
>> replaced with a more refined molding?
>>
>> So my question is, do I just start drilling out the rivets (after
>> unscrewing side lights, endcaps, etc) until the molding comes off? Then
>> start
>> bondo-ing the seam?
>>
>> Then, any recommendations on replacing the molding with something more
>> refined, or leaving it smooth? (I lean toward smooth).
>>
>> Paul
>>
>> --
>> Paul & Carolynn Lynnwood WA
>> '73 23' I don't know the model. Mid-bath.
>> Presently gutted. Installed One-Ton FrontEnd.
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
|
|
|
Re: [GMCnet] Removing Side Molding [message #313834 is a reply to message #313760] |
Sun, 26 February 2017 17:18 |
RicksGMC
Messages: 145 Registered: May 2012
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
J.R.
How did you attach the new aluminum strips to the coach?
Rick
Rick&Tammy Drummond
Prior Lake MN
'74 (re)Painted Desert
> On Feb 24, 2017, at 11:11 PM, powerjon@chartermi.net wrote:
>
> The best way to redo the seam on the early coaches up to mid to late 76 models is the use 2” by 1/8” thick aluminum strips to make it look like the later coaches. The molding has no practical purpose other than to cover the seam. Without the molding the coach IMHO looks much better.
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/77-gmc-exterior/p37090-mvc-014s1.html
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/77-gmc-exterior/p37089-mvc-013s2.html
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/77-gmc-exterior/p37083-mvc-007s1.html
>
> J.R. Wright
> GMC GreatLaker
> Newsletter Editor/Publisher
> Tech Editor
> 78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
> 75 Avion Under Reconstruction
> Michigan
>
>> On Feb 24, 2017, at 2:11 PM, Todd Sullivan wrote:
>>
>> There is no way to french that seam away to where it will not reveal itself
>> later with a crack. Which you will then have to fix again or cover with a
>> molding. The simplest permanent fix would be to clean the seam, apply new
>> flexible seam sealant and re install some type of molding to cover it.
>>
>> Sully
>> 77 eleganza 2
>> Seattle
>>> On Fri, Feb 24, 2017 at 11:29 AM Paul Sager wrote:
>>>
>>> I have some small leaks coming in at the waste-line side molding. This is
>>> a '73 23'. I have gutted the interior, so am pretty sure I've traced the
>>> moisture to this seam, where aluminum meets fiberglass. It came to me with
>>> the rubber molding already removed, exposing just the bare metal backing
>>> (so apparently PO knew there were leaks here and thought about digging
>>> into it).
>>>
>>> It appears to me that some renovations have removed this molding
>>> altogether? I can see where this would make repainting go smoother. Some
>>> have
>>> replaced with a more refined molding?
>>>
>>> So my question is, do I just start drilling out the rivets (after
>>> unscrewing side lights, endcaps, etc) until the molding comes off? Then
>>> start
>>> bondo-ing the seam?
>>>
>>> Then, any recommendations on replacing the molding with something more
>>> refined, or leaving it smooth? (I lean toward smooth).
>>>
>>> Paul
>>>
>>> --
>>> Paul & Carolynn Lynnwood WA
>>> '73 23' I don't know the model. Mid-bath.
>>> Presently gutted. Installed One-Ton FrontEnd.
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Rick
Rick&Tammy Drummond
Prior Lake MN
'74 (re)Painted Desert
|
|
|
Re: [GMCnet] Removing Side Molding [message #313855 is a reply to message #313834] |
Sun, 26 February 2017 22:48 |
powwerjon
Messages: 849 Registered: March 2013
Karma: -2
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Rick,
Do not have any pictures, but will have some this summer when I redo the 75 Avion. The aluminum is fixed over the belt line area with the use of rivets with recessed heads that you fill later and 3M Automix 8219 SMC/panel adhesive and you could use the 8115 adhesive also. You also need the applicator gun. I have been lucky enough to find several at swap meets here in AZ. The ends are not butt ended but they cut so there is a matching overlap and glued.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tes-08115/overview/
http://3mcollision.com/3m-composite-and-metal-bonding-adhesive-08219.html
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tes-08571/overview/
J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
Newsletter Editor/Publisher
Tech Editor
78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
> On Feb 26, 2017, at 4:18 PM, Rick Drummond wrote:
>
> J.R.
> How did you attach the new aluminum strips to the coach?
>
> Rick
>
> Rick&Tammy Drummond
> Prior Lake MN
> '74 (re)Painted Desert
>
>> On Feb 24, 2017, at 11:11 PM, powerjon@chartermi.net wrote:
>>
>> The best way to redo the seam on the early coaches up to mid to late 76 models is the use 2” by 1/8” thick aluminum strips to make it look like the later coaches. The molding has no practical purpose other than to cover the seam. Without the molding the coach IMHO looks much better.
>>
>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/77-gmc-exterior/p37090-mvc-014s1.html
>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/77-gmc-exterior/p37089-mvc-013s2.html
>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/77-gmc-exterior/p37083-mvc-007s1.html
>>
>> J.R. Wright
>> GMC GreatLaker
>> Newsletter Editor/Publisher
>> Tech Editor
>> 78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
>> 75 Avion Under Reconstruction
>> Michigan
>>
>>> On Feb 24, 2017, at 2:11 PM, Todd Sullivan wrote:
>>>
>>> There is no way to french that seam away to where it will not reveal itself
>>> later with a crack. Which you will then have to fix again or cover with a
>>> molding. The simplest permanent fix would be to clean the seam, apply new
>>> flexible seam sealant and re install some type of molding to cover it.
>>>
>>> Sully
>>> 77 eleganza 2
>>> Seattle
>>>> On Fri, Feb 24, 2017 at 11:29 AM Paul Sager wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I have some small leaks coming in at the waste-line side molding. This is
>>>> a '73 23'. I have gutted the interior, so am pretty sure I've traced the
>>>> moisture to this seam, where aluminum meets fiberglass. It came to me with
>>>> the rubber molding already removed, exposing just the bare metal backing
>>>> (so apparently PO knew there were leaks here and thought about digging
>>>> into it).
>>>>
>>>> It appears to me that some renovations have removed this molding
>>>> altogether? I can see where this would make repainting go smoother. Some
>>>> have
>>>> replaced with a more refined molding?
>>>>
>>>> So my question is, do I just start drilling out the rivets (after
>>>> unscrewing side lights, endcaps, etc) until the molding comes off? Then
>>>> start
>>>> bondo-ing the seam?
>>>>
>>>> Then, any recommendations on replacing the molding with something more
>>>> refined, or leaving it smooth? (I lean toward smooth).
>>>>
>>>> Paul
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Paul & Carolynn Lynnwood WA
>>>> '73 23' I don't know the model. Mid-bath.
>>>> Presently gutted. Installed One-Ton FrontEnd.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
|
|
|
|
|
Goto Forum:
Current Time: Wed Nov 13 22:00:31 CST 2024
Total time taken to generate the page: 0.01847 seconds
|