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Dash heat and exhaust fumes [message #312649] |
Mon, 30 January 2017 18:37 |
AnnapolisGMC
Messages: 21 Registered: January 2017 Location: Annapolis, MD
Karma: 0
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Junior Member |
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Hey y'all. You all have been so helpful. Thank you so much.
This will be a bit if a shotgun post here. Please tell me if I should delete this and make a separate post for each problem found to keep things organized.
Got my eye on a 77 era coach that's local here and did my first test drive on it. Found the following possible problems that I'd like your opinions on.
Dash heat. We ran the coach for over an hour and the heater never blew warm. It was 45 degrees outside. Owner didn't think it was broke just "inefficient". Something about the long distance the water had to travel around (to the house water heater and back he said). Total bs or is that normal for these coaches. (Sure hope not. Wife will definitely murder me if we can't have cabin heat) What things could cause that and how much to fix? Ballpark.
Exhaust fumes. When we drove around the coach smelled of gas and fumes. He explained it away as the tank being "too full". True or bs. What could cause this? How much to fix. Ballpark. This is also a non starter for the wife. She gets migraines pretty easy if she's trapped in a room that has bad chemical smells. Pretty sure carbon monoxide would make that list of triggers.
Some Road drift and loose steering - I think. The rig has just shy of 120k. Suspension never rebuilt. He's Running Alcoas and firestones. Owner said it drifted a lot more when he had Michelins and he feels it rides fine. Im sure I do need to drive more GMCs to see if it's just me or if they all drive like this. Assuming I need a rebuilt front end - what would this cost. Ballpark of course.
he didn't demonstrate the dash or roof ac - said it was "too cold" to show the AC works but he said they both worked.
he didn't have the refrigerator lit off. What's a worst case scenario (parts and labor) on a replacement refrigerator in case it turns out to be beyond repair.
It's never been converted for ethanol tainted gas. Conversion estimate?
He keeps the airbags in "auto" and not "lock" contrary to the instructions stated on the advisory plate. Is this bad. I seemed a tad suspicious especially since I found a post he did on here asking about a problem with the level system several years ago. He says it is working to spec. I don't know enough about it to know if his demo Of it showed it worked after all. It seemed to slowly go up and down as he hit the controls while I watched outside.
Last, the seats wouldn't slide forward. What do new or restored seats cost if it can't be repaired or just operator error.
Trying to get a rough idea of what I'd be into $$ wise - worst case scenario - if all these things require repair/replacement (assuming I had it all done for me at a shop).
I understand this is asking a lot not knowing what actually is wrong in each case. Just trying to
Get a sense.
Other than these things I liked the coach based on my shallow knowledge of these so far and with nothing to compare it to.
He was an otherwise really nice, older gentleman who said he was selling it because they are headed to the "old folks storage facility". his words. To be fair he knew a lot about the coach and could be spot on with all of his assessments. He seems motivated to sell and I may make an offer (it has a rear bath and was maintained by Ken Frey and has all records since new and a new galvanized frame which like) especially if he concedes these costs and adjusts the price accordingly. (He listed the price based on "everything works" and was surprised I brought up these issues) so I think an adjustment would be fair if they turn out to be real issues. Naturally I'll pay to have a shop draw up estimates to get a more exact idea of what to offer him if we get that far. Mostly just want to know if you all think this coach would be worth the time and expense to take this next step or is this sounding like a lemon and I should just move on.
Thank you in advance.
Jason
WTB a 77 or 78 with dry bath config.
[Updated on: Mon, 30 January 2017 19:00] Report message to a moderator
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Re: Dash heat and exhaust fumes 77my [message #312654 is a reply to message #312649] |
Mon, 30 January 2017 19:52 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547 Registered: March 2007 Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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Jason,
A separate post is not required, we can answer in-line starting with =>
AnnapolisGMC wrote on Mon, 30 January 2017 19:37Hey y'all. You all have been so helpful. Thank you so much.
This will be a bit if a shotgun post here. Please tell me if I should delete this and make a separate post for each problem found to keep things organized.
Got my eye on a 77 era coach that's local here and did my first test drive on it. Found the following possible problems that I'd like your opinions on.
Dash heat. We ran the coach for over an hour and the heater never blew warm. It was 45 degrees outside. Owner didn't think it was broke just "inefficient". Something about the long distance the water had to travel around (to the house water heater and back he said). Total bs or is that normal for these coaches. (Sure hope not. Wife will definitely murder me if we can't have cabin heat) What things could cause that and how much to fix? Ballpark.
=> The heat should work. It is more effective than you have experienced. It could be a 20$ valve or it could be something else. Another reasonable be is that the control needs work. This can be anywhere from a few dollars for a new pin up. The fan worked? That is a good sign.
Exhaust fumes. When we drove around the coach smelled of gas and fumes. He explained it away as the tank being "too full". True or bs. What could cause this? How much to fix. Ballpark. This is also a non starter for the wife. She gets migraines pretty easy if she's trapped in a room that has bad chemical smells. Pretty sure carbon monoxide would make that list of triggers.
=> There is no reason at all for this. There are exhaust leaks somewhere and if you could not hear them, I would not know where to start.
Some Road drift and loose steering - I think. The rig has just shy of 120k. Suspension never rebuilt. He's Running Alcoas and firestones. Owner said it drifted a lot more when he had Michelins and he feels it rides fine. Im sure I do need to drive more GMCs to see if it's just me or if they all drive like this. Assuming I need a rebuilt front end - what would this cost. Ballpark of course.
=> Either the steer box is mis-set (an incredibly common issue) or some parts are worn and loose. Nothing is all that expensive, but the work is involved.
he didn't demonstrate the dash or roof ac - said it was "too cold" to show the AC works but he said they both worked.
=> This is possible as most A/C will not function at all at low temperatures.
he didn't have the refrigerator lit off. What's a worst case scenario (parts and labor) on a replacement refrigerator in case it turns out to be beyond repair.
=> See if it works on AC. If it does, the gas part can be fixed. Worst case is about 300$ for a board and a burner. Burners can usually be cleaned and then they are good for a while. If it is really dead, a rebuild cooling unit is a big hole in a kilobuck, but a replacement is ~1.5. Or you can get an inverter and a dorm reefer to put in there. (mine was <200$ but very battery dependent)
It's never been converted for ethanol tainted gas. Conversion estimate?
=> All the rubber has to be replaced in the fuel system. This includes the selector valve and engine pump. The tanks have to come down. This is all something you can do in a hard weekend and cash out of pocket is less than 100$.
He keeps the airbags in "auto" and not "lock" contrary to the instructions stated on the advisory plate. Is this bad. I seemed a tad suspicious especially since I found a post he did on here asking about a problem with the level system several years ago. He says it is working to spec. I don't know enough about it to know if his demo Of it showed it worked after all. It seemed to slowly go up and down as he hit the controls while I watched outside.
=> If he has the switches in "Auto" (Mine says "Travel" but it is older) and it is holding ride height, there can't be anything wrong that amounts to anything.
Last, the seats wouldn't slide forward. What do new or restored seats cost if it can't be repaired or just operator error.
=> Most likely the later. Even if they were seized up, the can be cleaned and greased.
Trying to get a rough idea of what I'd be into $$ wise - worst case scenario - if all these things require repair/replacement (assuming I had it all done for me at a shop).
I understand this is asking a lot not knowing what actually is wrong in each case. Just trying to Get a sense.
Other than these things I liked the coach based on my shallow knowledge of these so far and with nothing to compare it to.
He was an otherwise really nice, older gentleman who said he was selling it because they are headed to the "old folks storage facility". his words. To be fair he knew a lot about the coach and could be spot on with all of his assessments. He seems motivated to sell and I may make an offer (it has a rear bath and was maintained by Ken Frey and has all records since new and a new galvanized frame which like) especially if he concedes these costs and adjusts the price accordingly. (He listed the price based on "everything works" and was surprised I brought up these issues) so I think an adjustment would be fair if they turn out to be real issues. Naturally I'll pay to have a shop draw up estimates to get a more exact idea of what to offer him if we get that far. Mostly just want to know if you all think this coach would be worth the time and expense to take this next step or is this sounding like a lemon and I should just move on.
Thank you in advance.
Jason
I would suggest you get Ken on the horn, he is a neat guy even when he isn't talking about GMCs (I heard it happened once).
If he knows the coach, he can give you much better answers that we can.
Matt
If you can swing it
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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Re: [GMCnet] Dash heat and exhaust fumes [message #312664 is a reply to message #312649] |
Tue, 31 January 2017 00:51 |
jimk
Messages: 6734 Registered: July 2006 Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Have him drop the price few thousand as he is blowing smoke.
Heater should work fine, you should not smell gas.
We get coaches in our shop with these complaits and we fix them.
Unless you find one that has been taken care of, these are typical of the
ones people are trying to dump.
On Mon, Jan 30, 2017 at 4:37 PM, Jason Lawrence
wrote:
> Hey y'all. You all have been so helpful. Thank you so much. On to my next
> post here:
>
> Got my eye on a 77 era coach that's local here and did my first test drive
> on it. Found the following possible problems that I'd like your opinions
> on.
>
> Dash heat. We ran the coach for over an hour and the heater never blew
> warm. It was 45 degrees outside. Owner didn't think it was broke just
> "inefficient". Something about the long distance the water had to travel
> around (to the house water heater and back he said). Total bs or is that
> normal for these coaches. (Sure hope not. Wife will definitely murder me
> if we can't have cabin heat) What things could cause that and how much to
> fix? Ballpark.
>
> Exhaust fumes. When we drove around the coach smelled of gas and fumes. He
> explained it away as the tank being "too full". True or bs. What could
> cause this? How much to fix. Ballpark. This is also a non starter for the
> wife. She gets migraines pretty easy if she's trapped in a room that has
> bad chemical smells. Pretty sure carbon monoxide would make that list of
> triggers.
>
> Some Road drift and loose steering - I think. The rig has just shy of
> 120k. Suspension never rebuilt. He's Running Alcoas and firestones. Owner
> said
> it drifted a lot more when he had Michelins and he feels it rides fine. Im
> sure I do need to drive more GMCs to see if it's just me or if they all
> drive like this. Assuming I need a rebuilt front end - what would this
> cost. Ballpark of course.
>
> he didn't demonstrate the dash or roof ac - said it was "too cold" to show
> the AC works but he said they both worked.
>
> he didn't have the refrigerator lit off. What's a worst case scenario
> (parts and labor) on a replacement refrigerator in case it turns out to be
> beyond repair.
>
> It's never been converted for ethanol tainted gas. Conversion estimate?
>
> He keeps the airbags in "auto" and not "lock" contrary to the instructions
> stated on the advisory plate. Is this bad. I seemed a tad suspicious
> especially since I found a post he did on here asking about a problem with
> the level system several years ago. He says it is working to spec. I don't
> know enough about it to know if his demo Of it showed it worked after all.
> It seemed to slowly go up and down as he hit the controls while I watched
> outside.
>
> Last, the seats wouldn't slide forward. What do new or restored seats cost
> if it can't be repaired or just operator error.
>
> Trying to get a rough idea of what I'd be into $$ wise - worst case
> scenario - if all these things require repair/replacement (assuming I had
> it all
> done for me at a shop).
>
> I understand this is asking a lot not knowing what actually is wrong in
> each case. Just trying to
> Get a sense.
>
> Other than these things I liked the coach based on my shallow knowledge of
> these so far and with nothing to compare it to.
>
> He was an otherwise really nice, older gentleman who said he was selling
> it because they are headed to the "old folks storage facility". his words.
> To
> be fair he knew a lot about the coach and could be spot on with all of his
> assessments. He seems motivated to sell and I may make an offer (it has a
> rear bath and was maintained by Ken Frey and has all records since new and
> a new galvanized frame which like) especially if he concedes these costs
> and adjusts the price accordingly. (He listed the price based on
> "everything works" and was surprised I brought up these issues) so I think
> an
> adjustment would be fair if they turn out to be real issues. Naturally
> I'll pay to have a shop draw up estimates to get a more exact idea of what
> to
> offer him if we get that far. Mostly just want to know if you all think
> this coach would be worth the time and expense to take this next step or is
> this sounding like a lemon and I should just move on.
>
> Thank you in advance.
>
> Jason
>
> --
> WTB a 77 or 78 with dry bath config.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Re: Dash heat and exhaust fumes [message #312736 is a reply to message #312649] |
Wed, 01 February 2017 19:43 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186 Registered: January 2009 Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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Our dash heat decided to quit working on a cold, rainy trip between Las Vegas and Parker, AZ a few weeks ago. I have diagnosed it to either a bad heater control valve or a plugged heater core. It should blow nice and hot, warm anyway.
The gas/exhaust smell could be due to a leaky hatch cover gasket and/or exhaust leaks as Matt suggested. These are easily remedied.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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Re: Dash heat and exhaust fumes [message #312751 is a reply to message #312649] |
Thu, 02 February 2017 02:13 |
GatsbysCruise
Messages: 261 Registered: January 2017 Location: Waukegan, Illinois
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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I was without heat for a long time until I found it. It was a simple fix but I didn't know it.
You can lose heat if....
the coolant level is low
If the vent door do not open (vaccum operated). You can identify this if there is little or no air blowing from the vents in the dash.... They are Located inside the vent and I think there are two of them. If the vents do not open and you cannot find the problem with the controls, prop the vents open manually. I did this inside the vents on mine.
If the control cable broke off the tab for fastening, either at the heater control in the dash or on the door control at the heater vent control under the hood.
..... I had to replace the control cable, the tab broke off and the whole assembly moved when the heater lever was moved, so no heater door action under the hood. Replaced and the heat is great.
Just my thoughts.
GatsbysCruise. \
74GMC260 Former Glacier Model style. \
Waukegan, Illinois \ Keep those MiniDiscs Spinning \ MY GREYHOUND IS FASTER THAN YOUR HONOR ROLL STUDENT \ WindowsXP-Win7-Win8.1-UBUNTU STUDIO - UBUNTU VOYAGER - Berzin Auto Center
[Updated on: Thu, 02 February 2017 02:15] Report message to a moderator
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Re: [GMCnet] Dash heat and exhaust fumes [message #312758 is a reply to message #312751] |
Thu, 02 February 2017 09:36 |
Keith V
Messages: 2337 Registered: March 2008 Location: Mounds View,MN
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Dash heat. Make sure all the seals and connections are good. everything was leaking on mine, the heater box was leaky, the plenums were mostly disconnected. heat/AC was going everywhere but into the cockpit.
Take the glove box out and check the connections to the dash vents, mine were completely disconnected. Open the heater box, make sure it's all clean and tight. Rig the recirc system, if you have it, to recirc 100%. Remember recirc only happens when the dash control is at max.
Gas fumes. make sure the cockpit is sealed, the engine hatch needs to have a complete rubber seal, the sides to the floor, firewall should be all air tight. Fix all those and it will be way better.
________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of slc
Sent: Thursday, February 2, 2017 2:13:07 AM
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Dash heat and exhaust fumes
I was without heat for a long time until I found it. It was a simple fix but I didn't know it.
You can lose heat if....
the coolant level is low
If the vent door do not open (vaccum operated). Located inside the vent. If the vents do not open and you cannot find the problem, prop the vents
open.
If the control cable broke off the tab for fastening, either at the heater control in the dash or on the door control at the heater vent control under
the hood.
..... I had to replace the control cable, the tab broke off and the whole assembly moved when the heater lever was moved, so no heater door action
under the hood. Replaced and the heat is great.
Just my thoughts.
--
GatsbysCruise. 74GMC Glacier Model.
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Keith Vasilakes
Mounds View. MN
75 ex Royale GMC
ask me about MicroLevel
Cell, 763-732-3419
My427v8@hotmail.com
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Re: Dash heat and exhaust fumes [message #312786 is a reply to message #312649] |
Fri, 03 February 2017 13:11 |
Adrien G.
Messages: 474 Registered: May 2008 Location: Burns Flat, OK 73624
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Have not read in this thread about fumes possibly coming in due to
chipmunk cheeks (the separation of the front cap and floor at the front wheels),
the body will have a bulge out at the front wheel area.
Just something to check.
Adrien & Jenny Genesoto
75 Glenbrook (26-3) Mods LS3.70 FD / Reaction Sys / 80mm Front&Intermidiate / Hydroboost / 16" Tires / Frame Rebuild / Interior Rebuild
Yuba City,Ca. Text 530-nine-3-three-3-nine-nine-6
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Re: Dash heat and exhaust fumes [message #312791 is a reply to message #312649] |
Fri, 03 February 2017 15:23 |
A Hamilto
Messages: 4508 Registered: April 2011
Karma: 39
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Senior Member |
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Adrien G. wrote on Fri, 03 February 2017 13:11Have not read in this thread about fumes possibly coming in due to chipmunk cheeks (the separation of the front cap and floor at the front wheels), the body will have a bulge out at the front wheel area.
Just something to check. We didn't mention the possibility of some rotted wood in the floor either. The fixes to the rotten floor or the chipmunk cheeks are not expensive if you DIY. As usual, add $80 - $100 per hour for someone else to fix it for you ($10 - $100 to DIY, a couple hundred to a grand additional for someone else to do it).
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