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Isolation pads [message #312570] Sat, 28 January 2017 21:24 Go to next message
Atom Ant is currently offline  Atom Ant   United States
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I've read a number of articles on replacing body pads.

One question-do I need to undo the u bolts or no? I tried to lift the body with a bottle jack and it simply lifted the coach. What am I missing?


1976 Palm Beach Austin, TX

[Updated on: Sat, 28 January 2017 21:51]

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Re: Isolation pads [message #312571 is a reply to message #312570] Sat, 28 January 2017 22:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
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I have done it both ways. On the one that I had to loosen the bolts, I loosened and removed only one of the horizontal bolts holding the bracket on the frame. I left the second one loosened but still installed. Then after replacing the pads. I use a long locating pin as a pry bar to force bracket back into position so the holes lined up. I tightened the already installed bolt. Then we inserted the removed bolt back into the hole where the tool was.

The only reason that I had to do all of the above was I removed a thin strip and was installing thick pads. On my own coach I already had thick pads so it was not necessary to loosen the hold downs bolts.


Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Re: [GMCnet] Isolation pads [message #312572 is a reply to message #312570] Sat, 28 January 2017 22:47 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Henderson is currently offline  Ken Henderson   United States
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Adam,

I'm not sure what you mean by "i bolts", but I assume you're talking about
those "carriage bolts" holding the clamps around the rubber bushings at the
sides of the frame. When I replaced the pads on my '76 Birchaven, I did as
you state you did: Lifted the body, which in turn lifted the chassis.
Since I'd well-soaked the bolts with penetrating oil, they their nuts then
came off easily. The purpose of lifting the body was a successful attempt
to inhibit turning of the carriage bolts -- I had no trouble with any of
them. And IIRC, I didn't even use an impact wrench, as would probably have
been best.

Good luck. Let us know how it works out.

Oh yeah: If I'd had trouble with any of the bolts and their heads had been
in inaccessible locations, I'd have either gripped their bottom ends with
lock-grips, slotted them with a grinding wheel for a screwdriver, or cut
the nuts off with a nut-cracker (which I think I'd bought for that purpose
but have never used).

Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, etc., etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com


On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 10:24 PM, Adam Metzger
wrote:

> I've read a number of articles on replacing body pads.
>
> One question-do I need to undo the i bolts or no? I tried to lift the
> body with a bottle jack and it simply lifted the coach. What am I missing?
> --
> 1976 Palm Beach
> Austin, TX
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
Re: Isolation pads [message #312576 is a reply to message #312570] Sun, 29 January 2017 10:05 Go to previous messageGo to next message
RF_Burns is currently offline  RF_Burns   Canada
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Adam,
I experienced the "frame lifting" even after removing all the nuts but one of the hold-down brackets. The trick I found was to raise the frame and set it on stands and let the air out of the rear air bags. This removed the upward push of the suspension against the body.

I was going from thin (and in some cases no pads) to thick pads so this likely exacerbated the frame lifting issue.

Here is my text instructions:
http://www.bdub.net/curtis-unlimited/Pad_Installation_Instructions_BruceHislop.txt

Here is some photos:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5800-isolation-pad-installation.html

Initially I wasn't able to loosen the large bolts holding the donut pads at the front and back so I loosened the 4 smaller bolts holding the plate that held the bolts. I then slid in sloted washers to make up the height difference. After several years of occasionally spraying them with Mr Wrench, I was able to loosen the main bolts. So I removed the sloted washers and installed several large washers under the donut on the main bolt.

Just my experience.


Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
Re: Isolation pads [message #312577 is a reply to message #312570] Sun, 29 January 2017 11:42 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Scott Nutter is currently offline  Scott Nutter   United States
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Would anyone have a time estimate for replacing all pads with average tools and average experience? One man job?
Thanks.


Scott Nutter 1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final drive, Quad bags, Dave Lenzi super duty mid axle disc brakes, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi. Alex Ferrera installed MSD Atomic EFI Houston, Texas
Re: [GMCnet] Isolation pads [message #312580 is a reply to message #312577] Sun, 29 January 2017 12:00 Go to previous messageGo to next message
bdub is currently offline  bdub   United States
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Registered: February 2004
Location: Central Texas
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Senior Member

It's about a day's job, depending on if all the nuts turn on the threads or
not. And if you have to run to the store for washers or spacers of some
sort.

bdub


-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist On Behalf Of Scott Nutter
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 11:43 AM

Would anyone have a time estimate for replacing all pads with average tools
and average experience? One man job?
Thanks.


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bdub
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Re: Isolation pads [message #312590 is a reply to message #312577] Sun, 29 January 2017 14:00 Go to previous message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
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Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
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On mine where I did not disconnect or loosen the hold downs I spent about 5 hours on the right side with the exhaust pipe. On the other side I spent about 2.5 hours the next day. If you get the jack placed correctly on the aluminum cross piece, you can jack up the body and simply replace it. Sometimes jacking on one will actually lift enough area to do two or three of them at a time.

Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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