flaring any type of tube, either requires luck for it to work and hold the tube, or requires a really good flare tool as you found out.

for metal, I have used an eastwood flaring tube, and it will be really difficult to use anything less in the future.


http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html


I am not sure what you are asking as for the compression. You would want an all brass compression connectors, but the barrier rubber fuel lines should just go over the fuel tank senders or other lines, and secure it with a good hose clamp(stainless preferred).


I originally restrung my fuel lines with all rubber. I plan on doing another coach this spring, and my plan is to use metal lines on top of the tanks. Some people claim you will not ever have to go up there if you use metal, but I am more planning on using the metal lines, because I feel the metal lines will stay put when you raise and lower the tanks. The hard part on my last job, was making sure the fuel lines on top of the tanks did not fall out of place, or get pinched anywhere.

The hard part on my last job, was making sure the fuel lines on top of the tanks did not fall out of place, or get pinched anywhere.

I know, I know...another gas tank thread.

I bought a coil of 3/8 poly for the tank lines. I tried to flare it and...Nope. cant get the flaring tool to grip the line. I'll be cutting off two inches and returning to the store. (I kept it in the coil because I had a feeling...)

after reading what I thought was every thread on this forum about gas tanks, I came across one for hard lines. Of course.

what length pre-made poly lines are used? I'd like to buy supplies before doing the job. I know I'll end up in town for some stupid thing, probably more than once. but the fewer the better.

also, I have NO experience with compression fittings. I don't need the latest and greatest, just what will work well.

do I really NEED to use compression fittings to the senders? I was planning on using hose, but if the lines already come with half the fitting...

i am not doing the whole system in hard line. I'm anxious to get a trip under my belt, and if I get a few years out of these lines (using barrier greenshield) that will suffice.
Plus, doing it again in a few years will be a great lesson for my son.

I'm not gonna pay 300.00 for a flaring tool. that could get a few other projects done. So it's either all rubber, or mostly rubber.

I'd like to use poly armour for the tank tops, that's why I asked the length needed. If I can avoid dropping the tanks in the future, I'd like to do it, but not at the cost of 300.00 before I even buy supplies.

just does not compute.

Atom Ant wrote on Fri, 16 December 2016 19:39

I'm not gonna pay 300.00 for a flaring tool. that could get a few other projects done. So it's either all rubber, or mostly rubber.

I'd like to use poly armour for the tank tops, that's why I asked the length needed. If I can avoid dropping the tanks in the future, I'd like to do it, but not at the cost of 300.00 before I even buy supplies.

just does not compute.

I used poly armor lines on the tank tops with compression fittings. Cannot find my records for the compression fittings that I used, but I did go to MC Mastercarr and searched "compression fittings", and ended up buying some steel compression fittings that were designed to withstand something over 1000lbs of pressure. I did that because I felt that the standard 3/8" brass fittings that you can get at...say "Ace Hardware"... might work harden over time and leak. I also did it because, at the same time that I replaced the lines, I put the fuel pumps in the tanks. The FI that I am running requires 52lbs running pressure...more than the average pressure that most are running, and the security of having fittings that would hold up to that pressure over a long period of time was worth the extra couple of bucks I spent for the steel fittings. JWID

I used pre-made lengths that were (I believe) 48" long. I cut the flared end off at the tank side and used brass compression fittings. I slid the rubber hose over the flared end (it was not hard) and used injection hose clamps.

I finally got a chance to get my coach jacked up to get a good look at the fuel line mess under there.

At least one tank vent blocked off. Some hoses look new, others have moss on them.
=> Not uncommon. A lot of people are good with doing half the job half fast.

I found a wire harness zip tied to the fuel lines, is this the wires for the senders? Runs through the frame and up into the coach at the side?
=> That is for the senders and the tank selector valve.

If I were to remove the filler pipe, do I need to access it from the inside drivers side wall? Or can I get it out through the wheel well?
=> No, but removing the wheel well liner will get you a lot more access.
=> You can disconnect the fill pipe at the rubber joint where it turns up and move the vent T to under the cab floor.

What is the foam grommet material that the filler pipe and vent run through?
=> My 73 doesn't seem to have that.

Has anyone seen or made a list of what size fuel lines go where in the system? (3/8 from sender to T, 1/2 to engine, etc)
=> The only 1/2 is from the fill vent T to the fill neck.
=> The draw lines and fill vent are both 3/8.
=> The vapor vent lines to the vapor separator valve are 5/16.
=> The run from the valve to the carbon canister and the fuel for the generator are both 1/4.

I also discovered a hole in the exhaust system under the step. Oh boy!