Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] headliner replacement help needed
[GMCnet] headliner replacement help needed [message #307251] |
Fri, 16 September 2016 21:34 |
Burt and Faye curtis
Messages: 256 Registered: June 2012
Karma: 4
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I am replacing my headliner as so many of you have done before. My problem
is the fit between the ceiling and the bath mod near the refrig and on the
other side between the ceiling and the dresser/closet mod. There doesn't
seem to be much room to slide the new panel into place. Just trying to
insert a small test piece is difficult to impossible unless it come at
those corners from the center and is pushed towards the outside wall, which
with the full size piece can't be done. I am using a panel of the same
dimensions as the original - or as close as possible using the old one as a
template.
So, has anyone else had this problem and if so what did you do to overcome
it and/or is there maybe a way to temp raise the roof in that area so I can
slide the panel in and then lower the roof on? Or any other ideas?
Really hate to cut the ceiling panel so short that I would need to install
a ceiling fill strip to hide the gap that would result.
Again, thanks in advance for all assistance.
Fay Curtis
'76 Glenbrook
Kneeland, CA
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Re: [GMCnet] headliner replacement help needed [message #307258 is a reply to message #307255] |
Fri, 16 September 2016 23:06 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726 Registered: March 2004 Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Faye,
Rather than a lumber pole on a jack, I'd suggest one of two other
alternatives: There are tall screw jacks that you might be able to rent or
borrow. They're used for beam reinforcement, overhead drywall support
during installation, etc.
More readily available and about as effective:
Lay a 2x4 or 2x6 on the floor for load distribution.
Measure from that to the roof and subtract 1-1/2" for the thickness of a
short load distribution 2x4 there.
Cut a 2x4 to the resulting length plus 1-1/2"-2". Put the top
"distributor" over the rib, and hold it there with the tall 2x4 as you
wedge that piece between the top and bottom distributors by driving the
bottom of the long 2x4 toward vertical.
That wedging action will exert all the force you need to raise the
roof. The post might bow a little, but not enough to be of concern.
Ken H.
On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 11:22 PM, Billy Massey wrote:
> Use a jack with a stiff leg of appropriate length to raise the roof at a
> rib. Use a piece of lumber below the jack to spread the load on the
> floor. It's rather dangerous in that the two pieces will try to scissor on
> you. Adjust placement as required. Good luck!
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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Re: [GMCnet] headliner replacement help needed [message #307259 is a reply to message #307258] |
Fri, 16 September 2016 23:25 |
Burt and Faye curtis
Messages: 256 Registered: June 2012
Karma: 4
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Ken,
I am a bit confused. You say to measure to the roof from the 2 X on the
floor and then subtract 1.5 inches from that length. Then to cut a 2X to
this length plus 1.5 to 2 inches. So would't it just be as good to take the
length measured and add up to .5 inches and cut it to that length?
Fay
On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 9:06 PM, Ken Henderson
wrote:
> Faye,
>
> Rather than a lumber pole on a jack, I'd suggest one of two other
> alternatives: There are tall screw jacks that you might be able to rent or
> borrow. They're used for beam reinforcement, overhead drywall support
> during installation, etc.
>
> More readily available and about as effective:
>
> Lay a 2x4 or 2x6 on the floor for load distribution.
>
> Measure from that to the roof and subtract 1-1/2" for the thickness of a
> short load distribution 2x4 there.
>
> Cut a 2x4 to the resulting length plus 1-1/2"-2". Put the top
> "distributor" over the rib, and hold it there with the tall 2x4 as you
> wedge that piece between the top and bottom distributors by driving the
> bottom of the long 2x4 toward vertical.
>
> That wedging action will exert all the force you need to raise the
> roof. The post might bow a little, but not enough to be of concern.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 11:22 PM, Billy Massey wrote:
>
>> Use a jack with a stiff leg of appropriate length to raise the roof at a
>> rib. Use a piece of lumber below the jack to spread the load on the
>> floor. It's rather dangerous in that the two pieces will try to scissor
> on
>> you. Adjust placement as required. Good luck!
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Re: [GMCnet] headliner replacement help needed [message #307261 is a reply to message #307259] |
Sat, 17 September 2016 00:01 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797 Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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I vote for the bottle Jack and the post.
Sully
77 eleganza 2
Seattle
On Friday, September 16, 2016, Burt and Faye curtis <
curtisunlimitedbandf@gmail.com> wrote:
> Ken,
> I am a bit confused. You say to measure to the roof from the 2 X on the
> floor and then subtract 1.5 inches from that length. Then to cut a 2X to
> this length plus 1.5 to 2 inches. So would't it just be as good to take the
> length measured and add up to .5 inches and cut it to that length?
>
> Fay
>
> On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 9:06 PM, Ken Henderson >
> wrote:
>
>> Faye,
>>
>> Rather than a lumber pole on a jack, I'd suggest one of two other
>> alternatives: There are tall screw jacks that you might be able to rent
> or
>> borrow. They're used for beam reinforcement, overhead drywall support
>> during installation, etc.
>>
>> More readily available and about as effective:
>>
>> Lay a 2x4 or 2x6 on the floor for load distribution.
>>
>> Measure from that to the roof and subtract 1-1/2" for the thickness
> of a
>> short load distribution 2x4 there.
>>
>> Cut a 2x4 to the resulting length plus 1-1/2"-2". Put the top
>> "distributor" over the rib, and hold it there with the tall 2x4 as you
>> wedge that piece between the top and bottom distributors by driving the
>> bottom of the long 2x4 toward vertical.
>>
>> That wedging action will exert all the force you need to raise the
>> roof. The post might bow a little, but not enough to be of concern.
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 11:22 PM, Billy Massey > wrote:
>>
>>> Use a jack with a stiff leg of appropriate length to raise the roof at
> a
>>> rib. Use a piece of lumber below the jack to spread the load on the
>>> floor. It's rather dangerous in that the two pieces will try to
> scissor
>> on
>>> you. Adjust placement as required. Good luck!
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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Re: [GMCnet] headliner replacement help needed [message #307262 is a reply to message #307259] |
Sat, 17 September 2016 00:30 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726 Registered: March 2004 Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Faye,
Yeah, your math is correct. But if I'd left out the reason for it, you
might have not understood the rationale -- you obviously did, so it should
work great for you. Even if you have to add or subtract 1/2". :-)
(Seriously, I didn't really think YOU needed all that, but SOMEONE did) :-)
Ken H.
On Sat, Sep 17, 2016 at 12:25 AM, Burt and Faye curtis <
curtisunlimitedbandf@gmail.com> wrote:
> Ken,
> I am a bit confused. You say to measure to the roof from the 2 X on the
> floor and then subtract 1.5 inches from that length. Then to cut a 2X to
> this length plus 1.5 to 2 inches. So would't it just be as good to take the
> length measured and add up to .5 inches and cut it to that length?
>
> Fay
>
> On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 9:06 PM, Ken Henderson
> wrote:
>
>> Faye,
>>
>> Rather than a lumber pole on a jack, I'd suggest one of two other
>> alternatives: There are tall screw jacks that you might be able to rent
> or
>> borrow. They're used for beam reinforcement, overhead drywall support
>> during installation, etc.
>>
>> More readily available and about as effective:
>>
>> Lay a 2x4 or 2x6 on the floor for load distribution.
>>
>> Measure from that to the roof and subtract 1-1/2" for the thickness
> of a
>> short load distribution 2x4 there.
>>
>> Cut a 2x4 to the resulting length plus 1-1/2"-2". Put the top
>> "distributor" over the rib, and hold it there with the tall 2x4 as you
>> wedge that piece between the top and bottom distributors by driving the
>> bottom of the long 2x4 toward vertical.
>>
>> That wedging action will exert all the force you need to raise the
>> roof. The post might bow a little, but not enough to be of concern.
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 11:22 PM, Billy Massey wrote:
>>
>>> Use a jack with a stiff leg of appropriate length to raise the roof at
> a
>>> rib. Use a piece of lumber below the jack to spread the load on the
>>> floor. It's rather dangerous in that the two pieces will try to
> scissor
>> on
>>> you. Adjust placement as required. Good luck!
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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Re: [GMCnet] headliner replacement help needed [message #307263 is a reply to message #307262] |
Sat, 17 September 2016 01:47 |
Burt and Faye curtis
Messages: 256 Registered: June 2012
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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Ken,
Thanks. Will try it tomorrow. Nice to know that pushing up should work.
Fay
On Friday, September 16, 2016, Ken Henderson wrote:
> Faye,
>
> Yeah, your math is correct. But if I'd left out the reason for it, you
> might have not understood the rationale -- you obviously did, so it should
> work great for you. Even if you have to add or subtract 1/2". :-)
>
> (Seriously, I didn't really think YOU needed all that, but SOMEONE did)
> :-)
>
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Sat, Sep 17, 2016 at 12:25 AM, Burt and Faye curtis curtisunlimitedbandf@gmail.com > wrote:
>
>> Ken,
>> I am a bit confused. You say to measure to the roof from the 2 X on the
>> floor and then subtract 1.5 inches from that length. Then to cut a 2X to
>> this length plus 1.5 to 2 inches. So would't it just be as good to take
> the
>> length measured and add up to .5 inches and cut it to that length?
>>
>> Fay
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 9:06 PM, Ken Henderson >
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Faye,
>>>
>>> Rather than a lumber pole on a jack, I'd suggest one of two other
>>> alternatives: There are tall screw jacks that you might be able to
> rent
>> or
>>> borrow. They're used for beam reinforcement, overhead drywall support
>>> during installation, etc.
>>>
>>> More readily available and about as effective:
>>>
>>> Lay a 2x4 or 2x6 on the floor for load distribution.
>>>
>>> Measure from that to the roof and subtract 1-1/2" for the thickness
>> of a
>>> short load distribution 2x4 there.
>>>
>>> Cut a 2x4 to the resulting length plus 1-1/2"-2". Put the top
>>> "distributor" over the rib, and hold it there with the tall 2x4 as you
>>> wedge that piece between the top and bottom distributors by driving the
>>> bottom of the long 2x4 toward vertical.
>>>
>>> That wedging action will exert all the force you need to raise the
>>> roof. The post might bow a little, but not enough to be of concern.
>>>
>>> Ken H.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 11:22 PM, Billy Massey > wrote:
>>>
>>>> Use a jack with a stiff leg of appropriate length to raise the roof
> at
>> a
>>>> rib. Use a piece of lumber below the jack to spread the load on the
>>>> floor. It's rather dangerous in that the two pieces will try to
>> scissor
>>> on
>>>> you. Adjust placement as required. Good luck!
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Re: [GMCnet] headliner replacement help needed [message #307265 is a reply to message #307251] |
Sat, 17 September 2016 02:54 |
Olly Schmidt
Messages: 1265 Registered: February 2014 Location: Germany and Scottsville, ...
Karma: 8
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Senior Member |
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Morning from Germany,
> I am replacing my headliner as so many of you have done before. My > problem is the fit between the ceiling and the bath mod near the >
refrig and on the other side between the ceiling and the >
dresser/closet mod.
Everybody has that issue it seems. I fixed with standing up in that area
and with my head pushing the ceiling up enough to create an opening.
--
Best regards
Peer Oliver Schmidt
PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA
'76a Eleganza II, VA
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Best regards
Olly Schmidt
PGP Key ID: 0x18a9 3a1f 4196 bf22
'76a Eleganza II, VA
'73 Sequoia, SH, Germany
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Re: [GMCnet] headliner replacement help needed [message #307290 is a reply to message #307267] |
Sat, 17 September 2016 15:58 |
tphipps
Messages: 3005 Registered: August 2004 Location: Spanish Fort, AL
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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I used bottle jack and 4x4. Worked nicely. HF has a suitable device, designed for use in a pickup truck bed, that will easy do the trick. You may have to place something underneath to get the jack high enough, but you can easily control the amount of pressure that you apply. I use this for moving overhead cabinets.
Tom, MS II
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
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