Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » front spacer socket size?
| front spacer socket size? [message #301673] |
Mon, 06 June 2016 10:36  |
Tilerpep
Messages: 404
Registered: June 2013
Location: Raleigh, NC
Karma: 7
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In tracking down a persistent, minor vibration, it was suggested at Bean Station I remove my front spacers and see if anything changes.
They were put on by a previous owner, and require a thin wall socket. Anyone know/venture a size so I don't have to buy a full set? And, suggestions where to buy the sockets are welcome. The usual car parts places don't carry them in stock, can't find at HF, Northern or Sears.
1975 Glenbrook, 1978 Royale rear bath
Raleigh, NC
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| Re: front spacer socket size? [message #301694 is a reply to message #301673] |
Mon, 06 June 2016 14:29  |
Bullitthead
Messages: 1411
Registered: November 2013
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Probably not the spacer if the vibration is "minor". If that spacer is off center, untrue, or damaged, the "vibration" is NOT going to be minor. You will feel it in the steering wheel and the body of the coach if the spacer, the wheel, and the tire are not round and concentric. Any speed over 50 would probably be a white-knuckle ride. My spacers came with their own conical lug nuts to fasten them to the studs. I don't think they are 7/8" like the originals. They are behind the wheel now and I can't get to them to check them for you, but they just about have to be 3/4 or 13/16 to fit in the bore and give room for a socket.
Terry Kelpien
ASE Master Technician
73 Glacier 260
Smithfield, Va.
[Updated on: Mon, 06 June 2016 14:30] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: front spacer socket size? [message #301805 is a reply to message #301673] |
Tue, 07 June 2016 19:52 |
Tilerpep
Messages: 404
Registered: June 2013
Location: Raleigh, NC
Karma: 7
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Got in there today, progress but not success...
7/8 is the size. I had tried a long time ago with an impact and it wouldn't fit. Breaker bar, cheater, standard socket with extension to clear lugs - wife held brake and no problem getting nuts.
But then, nothing. Rusted on to the hub. I banged, put the wheel on the spacer for some leverage, nothing. soaked with PB Blaster. ended up putting all the spacer nuts back on three turns loose, put wheel back on, dropped it off the jack and tried rocking/brake/power to jerk it loose. nope. sheesh. now where is that dumb emoticon where the circle face bangs his head against a wall...
Edit- just talked with bdub, and he suggested using my no good spare wheel, bolt it on, and give it the sledgehammer treatment. methinks I shall in the morning
1975 Glenbrook, 1978 Royale rear bath
Raleigh, NC
[Updated on: Tue, 07 June 2016 20:24] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] front spacer socket size? [message #301807 is a reply to message #301805] |
Tue, 07 June 2016 20:36 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Tyler,
An idea that MIGHT work: Get a steel cylinder made which will fit through
the center hole (4.567" ID - 0.005") of the spacer, rest on the hub, and
protrude 1/4" or so from the spacer. Insert that device before mounting a
wheel on the lug bolts. Tighten the lug nuts symmetrically until the
spacer is pulled off of the hub.
If the cylinder is too expensive, a few pieces of bar stock, held in place
with rags or paper or wood cylinder stuffed into the center of a circle of
them might work.
'Of course, if you've got a slide hammer to mount to the lugs, you may not
need to get so fancy. :-)
JWIT (Just What I'd Try)
Ken H.
On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 8:52 PM, Tyler wrote:
> Got in there today, progress but not success...
> 7/8 is the size. I had tried a long time ago with an impact and it
> wouldn't fit. Breaker bar, cheater, standard socket with extension to clear
> lugs -
> wife held brake and no problem getting nuts.
>
> But then, nothing. Rusted on to the hub. I banged, put the wheel on the
> spacer for some leverage, nothing. soaked with PB Blaster. ended up putting
> all the spacer nuts back on three turns loose, put wheel back on, dropped
> it off the jack and tried rocking/brake/power to jerk it loose. nope.
> sheesh. now where is that dumb emoticon where the circle face bangs his
> head against a wall...
> --
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: front spacer socket size? [message #301813 is a reply to message #301673] |
Tue, 07 June 2016 23:06 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
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I learned that lesson years ago on an Olds Toronado. Bi-metal corrosion between aluminum wheels and the steel hubs were holding the wheels tight and every thing I tried including heat and various penetrating oils were no help. I finally took an 8 foot 2x4 and a sledge hammer and drove the wheels off from the other side.
I suggest doing something similar on the GMC. Remove all of the spacer nuts. Soak the joint between the wheel and spacer with Kroil. Reinstall any wheel on the spacer. Place an 8 or 9 foot 2x4 across underneath the coach and drive the wheel off from the other side with a sledge. If you can not get it loose, soak it again with Kroil and let it sit overnight. Then sledge it off in the morning.
On every vehicle I have owned with aluminum wheels since the Toronado, I anti-seize the back side of the wheels to prevent bi-metal corrosion. One coating is good for the life of the car or wheel. I have never had a stuck wheel on any anti-seized wheel since then. I even do this on steel wheels even though I have never had a steel wheel stick.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] front spacer socket size? [message #301845 is a reply to message #301844] |
Wed, 08 June 2016 12:08 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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I frequently run into spacers on GMC coaches that are a bugger to remove.
Some fit very tightly on the hubs. I have never been unsuccessful removing
them with my 5# slide hammer bolted onto the wheel studs. You just have to
out stubborn them. Your results may vary.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403
On Jun 8, 2016 9:53 AM, "Mark Sawyer" wrote:
> I've never personally tried either, but I've read that pure ammonia or
> caustic soda (Drano) will dissolve aluminum oxide... Both are old tricks
> used
> to remove stuck aluminum seatposts from steel bicycles... Neither will
> probably do the finish of the wheels any good, so try and keep it on the
> back-side...
>
> Also, using penetrating oil will have almost no effect on aluminum oxide.
> But a big hammer will have an effect on just about anything you use it on
> ;)
> --
> Mark S. '73 Painted Desert,
> Manny 1 Ton Front End,
> Howell Injection,
> Leigh Harrison 4bag and Rear Brakes,
> Fort Worth, TX
>
> _______________________________________________
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| Re: front spacer socket size? [message #301881 is a reply to message #301673] |
Wed, 08 June 2016 22:22 |
Tilerpep
Messages: 404
Registered: June 2013
Location: Raleigh, NC
Karma: 7
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Last night I sprayed PB, left the spacer lugs three turns loose and put the wheel back on with full coach weight. Tonight I took wheel off, and it had popped the surfaces free. Still had to mount the bad spare steel wheel inverse and work it around with the sledgehammer to free from hub center.
Around to the second side, didn't want to wait overnight, so just sprayed a bunch, four foot cheater to get spacer nuts off, mount steel wheel and gave it some sledgehammer roundabouts to pop, then walk it off.
Thanks as usual for the tips. If I had an 8 foot 2x4, and didn't have a spare wheel rim, I would have had a backup plan.
Next interesting part was that I pulled the axle nut pins, and driver side my cheap impact hammered at the nut and it freed up. Passenger side just zipped off. Everyone was saying 250 pounds of torque would be tough to undo. Thinking about re-assembly after a planned bearing check, I don't see how you can get the castle pin to line up if it doesn't just happen to line up. Only six sides on that nut, so if you got it tight, seems too far to get to another notch. I will have to back it off to align pin. As in, I will let my air wrench hammer it, and then back it by hand to get pin in.
1975 Glenbrook, 1978 Royale rear bath
Raleigh, NC
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| Re: [GMCnet] front spacer socket size? [message #301883 is a reply to message #301881] |
Wed, 08 June 2016 22:45 |
bdub
Messages: 1578
Registered: February 2004
Location: Central Texas
Karma: 5
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Congratulations! Glad the already bent spare wheel and a shelaylee did the
trick.
Don't back off the nut to pin it. It will go to the next slot. Just try
harder!
:-)
bdub
On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 10:22 PM, Tyler wrote:
> Last night I sprayed PB, left the spacer lugs three turns loose and put
> the wheel back on with full coach weight. Tonight I took wheel off, and it
> had
> popped the surfaces free. Still had to mount the bad spare steel wheel
> inverse and work it around with the sledgehammer to free from hub center.
>
> Around to the second side, didn't want to wait overnight, so just sprayed
> a bunch, four foot cheater to get spacer nuts off, mount steel wheel and
> gave it some sledgehammer roundabouts to pop, then walk it off.
>
> Thanks as usual for the tips. If I had an 8 foot 2x4, and didn't have a
> spare wheel rim, I would have had a backup plan.
>
> Next interesting part was that I pulled the axle nut pins, and driver side
> my cheap impact hammered at the nut and it freed up. Passenger side just
> zipped off. Everyone was saying 250 pounds of torque would be tough to
> undo. Thinking about re-assembly after a planned bearing check, I don't see
> how
> you can get the castle pin to line up if it doesn't just happen to line
> up. Only six sides on that nut, so if you got it tight, seems too far to get
> to another notch. I will have to back it off to align pin. As in, I will
> let my air wrench hammer it, and then back it by hand to get pin in.
>
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bdub
'76 Palm Beach/Central Texas
www.bdub.net
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| Re: front spacer socket size? [message #301889 is a reply to message #301888] |
Thu, 09 June 2016 06:25 |
Tilerpep
Messages: 404
Registered: June 2013
Location: Raleigh, NC
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The starting at 140 better matches what my eyes and fingers said must happen.
I had/have a slight ticking noise on pass side that was tied to wheel speed and did not go away with brakes applied. Slight enough I only heard it while running alongside a curb or guardrail to reflect sound. May be in cv joint, but if that nut was a fraction loose, could it click? While up on stands with no wheels on I ran engine and put it in gear, up to an indicated 20 mph but no tick. Other things to check? Hoping this tear down includes a bearing look see (watched Ken Thoma video last night). Anyone with hub experience and bearing puller able to join me? Or I can journey a few hours to you. Central NC.
1975 Glenbrook, 1978 Royale rear bath
Raleigh, NC
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| Re: front spacer socket size? [message #301918 is a reply to message #301889] |
Thu, 09 June 2016 15:24 |
Bullitthead
Messages: 1411
Registered: November 2013
Karma: 5
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If the axle nut is loose the bearing will spread apart. It should be pinned. If the nut comes off or the axle tip breaks off, the bearing will come apart and you will run aground. Hopefully not at speed. Hairy enough at 30 mph. BTDT...Heard the nut with the axle end dingling around inside the hub on the turn before. Bad day for the GMC, but close to home at less than 30 mph. Axle tip still pinned in the nut.
Terry Kelpien
ASE Master Technician
73 Glacier 260
Smithfield, Va.
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| Re: [GMCnet] front spacer socket size? [message #301952 is a reply to message #301943] |
Fri, 10 June 2016 08:17 |
bdub
Messages: 1578
Registered: February 2004
Location: Central Texas
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btw, her Black List entry shares a common problem with yours also. It came
out as Bessler, which is the name of another Blacklister.
Thanks a lot, MS Excel!
bdub ... gotta turn off that predictive spell thing
On Fri, Jun 10, 2016 at 12:20 AM, Terry wrote:
> "Barbara Beiser has been there, done that as well. In Downtown Denver."
>
>
> Maybe we should start a club! :lol:
>
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bdub
'76 Palm Beach/Central Texas
www.bdub.net
www.gmcmhphotos.com
www.gmcmotorhomemarketplace.com
www.gmcmhregistry.com
www.facebook.com/groups/classicgmcmotorhomes
www.facebook.com/groups/gmcmm
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