Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Speedbleeders and bleeding brakes
| Speedbleeders and bleeding brakes [message #298611] |
Mon, 04 April 2016 14:43  |
McCohens
Messages: 22
Registered: March 2016
Location: Chalfont, PA
Karma: 0
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Junior Member |
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After a 6 year hibernation we are getting the 76 Eleganza II back on the road.
Put in a new master and prop valve, all the lines and hoses look good.
I have had success with the speedbleeders in the past and got a set for the GMC.
I know not to overstroke the pedal, my wife is well trained in that!
The initial bleed went well, had no bubbles in a minute on each wheel. Went through
about three refils of the master.
On the round the block road test the brakes felt great at first but at the end were soft
again. Do I need to pump more fluid through?
Next problem will be the cooling system. In 5 minutes of running it was overheating.
What fun!
Randy Cohen
Chalfont, PA
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| Re: Speedbleeders and bleeding brakes [message #298612 is a reply to message #298611] |
Mon, 04 April 2016 14:58  |
77Royale
Messages: 461
Registered: June 2014
Location: Mid Michigan
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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In speaking with several respected GMCers I have done the following. Your mileage may vary and Im sure there are many different schools of thought. That being said. I put a few careful wraps of teflon tape around the bleeder screw threads. This helps down the road in cracking them open and not cracking them off...
I have also gravity bled my system a few different times. No real pumping needed, just patience as the master is high up enough to let gravity do the work. Put the bleeder hose in a plastic bottle. Mark the level of old fluid with a sharpie, Come back a few mins later and make sure the level is going up from your original mark. Refill res, repeat.
Last go around I probably filled the front and rear res 5-6 times each at minimum..
Folks will also say, rubber hoses can look great and still break down internally and collapse. You may want to check the date stamps on the rubber parts and replace as necessary. 6 year old fluid can have water as well. I would consider flushing the entire system with new fresh fluid.
77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies, Patterson carb and dizzy.
Mid Michigan
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| Re: [GMCnet] Speedbleeders and bleeding brakes [message #298615 is a reply to message #298612] |
Mon, 04 April 2016 15:01 |
Dolph Santorine
Messages: 1236
Registered: April 2011
Location: Wheeling, WV
Karma: -41
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Senior Member |
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Funny, I didn’t even think to use SpeedBleeders. They are on the Miata, and makes a tedious job easy.
What size for our calipers?
Dolph
DE N8JPC
Wheeling, West Virginia
1977 26’ ex-PalmBeach
1-Ton, Sullybilt Bags, Reaction Arms, 3.70 LSD, Manny Transmission, EV-6010
“The Aluminum and Fiberglass Mistress"
> On Apr 4, 2016, at 3:58 PM, Wayne Rogewski wrote:
>
> In speaking with several respected GMCers I have done the following. Your mileage may vary and Im sure there are many different schools of thought.
> That being said. I put a few careful wraps of teflon tape around the bleeder screw threads. This helps down the road in cracking them open and not
> cracking them off...
>
> I have also gravity bled my system a few different times. No real pumping needed, just patience as the master is high up enough to let gravity do the
> work. Put the bleeder hose in a plastic bottle. Mark the level of old fluid with a sharpie, Come back a few mins later and make sure the level is
> going up from your original mark. Refill res, repeat.
>
> Last go around I probably filled the front and rear res 5-6 times each at minimum..
>
> Folks will also say, rubber hoses can look great and still break down internally and collapse. You may want to check the date stamps on the rubber
> parts and replace as necessary. 6 year old fluid can have water as well. I would consider flushing the entire system with new fresh fluid.
> --
> 77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies.
> Mid Michigan
>
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| Re: Speedbleeders and bleeding brakes [message #298617 is a reply to message #298611] |
Mon, 04 April 2016 15:15 |
lqqkatjon
Messages: 2324
Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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pump some more fluid through. all that you replaced, especially the valve, and how that operates, the way the lines come off,and how you are supposed to "press the button" when bleeding, and air could be trapped about anywhere and needs to work loose.
I am a super fan on Jim Hupy's pressure bleeder. of about 8-10 times using it to bleed brakes(mostly my GMC as I pieced mealed my brakes, and 3 non-GMC's). Never had a question about if I "may or may not" have air in the system.
http://www.bdub.net/jhupy/
FWIW, all times I have bled the brakes on my gmc with the pressure bleeder, I never pressed the button on the proportioning valve, because I never had the right tool to do so, and never had any problems.
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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| Re: [GMCnet] Speedbleeders and bleeding brakes [message #298624 is a reply to message #298611] |
Mon, 04 April 2016 17:19 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Randy,
In my opinion here's the best bleeder available:
http://bdub.net/jhupy/
I have one in Houston and one in Sydney.
ChuckB just used his to bleed the brakes on the Kingsley and they are rock hard!
Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@list.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Randy Cohen/Catherine McGinley
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2016 3:43 PM
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: [GMCnet] Speedbleeders and bleeding brakes
After a 6 year hibernation we are getting the 76 Eleganza II back on the road.
Put in a new master and prop valve, all the lines and hoses look good.
I have had success with the speedbleeders in the past and got a set for the GMC.
I know not to overstroke the pedal, my wife is well trained in that!
The initial bleed went well, had no bubbles in a minute on each wheel. Went through
about three refils of the master.
On the round the block road test the brakes felt great at first but at the end were soft
again. Do I need to pump more fluid through?
Next problem will be the cooling system. In 5 minutes of running it was overheating.
What fun!
Randy Cohen
Chalfont, PA
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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| [GMCnet] OT Re: Speedbleeders and bleeding brakes [message #298650 is a reply to message #298615] |
Tue, 05 April 2016 02:16 |
Olly Schmidt
Messages: 1265
Registered: February 2014
Location: Germany and Scottsville, ...
Karma: 8
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Senior Member |
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Hey Dolph,
> Funny, I didn’t even think to use SpeedBleeders. They are on the Miata, and makes a tedious job easy.
> [.]1977 26’ ex-PalmBeach
interesting to see someone else with a similar combination of cars. I
bought my '91 NA Miata in 1993 in PA, and have driven it ever since. 25k
mls in the US, 125k mls in Europe :)
--
Best regards
Peer Oliver Schmidt
PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA
'76a Eleganza II, VA
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Best regards
Olly Schmidt
PGP Key ID: 0x18a9 3a1f 4196 bf22
'76a Eleganza II, VA
'73 Sequoia, SH, Germany
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| Re: Speedbleeders and bleeding brakes [message #298671 is a reply to message #298611] |
Tue, 05 April 2016 10:40 |
TR 1
Messages: 348
Registered: August 2015
Location: DFW
Karma: -7
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Senior Member |
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Speed Bleeders use a special thread sealant which can wear off or become damaged on installation and create a slow leak. You can get a tube of the sealant direct from speedbleeder. You may want to check that to see if it's causing your soft pedal.
On a general bleeding note, I'm a big fan of reverse bleeding to remove air.. Air bubbles float, and with conventional bleeding, you are sort of working against this by trying to force the bubbles down.
When flushing a brake system, I generally start with conventional bleeding to remove old fluid, contaminants, water, etc. I just use one of those cheapy $3.99 one man bleeders. Once fluid is running clear, I switch to a reverse bleeder (bleeder forces fluid to be drawn or pushed from the caliper and it comes out the reservoir) to remove the air.
I used to use a vacuum bleeder that drew fluid into the reservoir. It worked, but it's a slow method. Recently, I've had a lot of luck with this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Phoenix-Systems-2104-B-Reverse-Bleeder/dp/B00GRV800S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459870163&sr=8-1&keywords=Reverse+bleed er
It forces fluid into the bleeder and it comes out the M/C reservoir.
This is the cheaper, plastic model, (though it seems to be good, strong plastic) and if you use it correctly, it holds up fine They also have an expensive, heavy-duty metal version. I bought the plastic one to try it out, and planned to upgrade to the metal one when this one goes, but I've done a half dozen or so full system bleeds with the cheap one, and it still works great.
Mark S. '73 Painted Desert,
Manny 1 Ton Front End,
Howell Injection,
Leigh Harrison 4bag and Rear Brakes,
Fort Worth, TX
[Updated on: Tue, 05 April 2016 10:44] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Speedbleeders and bleeding brakes [message #298682 is a reply to message #298611] |
Tue, 05 April 2016 12:32 |
TR 1
Messages: 348
Registered: August 2015
Location: DFW
Karma: -7
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Senior Member |
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I just looked at Jim Huppy's bleeder, and I agree, it should work the same way if hooked up to the bleeder end... I don't know what kind of pressures the Phoenix bleeder generates, nor do I know the pressure in the garden sprayer, but I would think if it can force fluid one way, it should work going the other...
I used to do something similar for filling transmissions and gear oil.. I took an old propane tank and drilled a hole for a shraeder valve. I could fill the tank part way with fluid, and pressurize it with compressed air using the shreader valve... Attach a hose to the propane outlet, flip it over, open the valve and you'd end up with tool that supplied gear oil/tranny fluid "on tap" 
Only thing was I'd get some aeration in the tranny fluid sometimes... Is that a problem with the garden sprayer?
Mark S. '73 Painted Desert,
Manny 1 Ton Front End,
Howell Injection,
Leigh Harrison 4bag and Rear Brakes,
Fort Worth, TX
[Updated on: Tue, 05 April 2016 12:33] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Speedbleeders and bleeding brakes [message #298683 is a reply to message #298682] |
Tue, 05 April 2016 12:43 |
lqqkatjon
Messages: 2324
Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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never had any aeration problem with the garden sprayer style. (I have a motive brand brake bleeder, with a hupy plate for the master).
pressure is minimal, usually 8-15 psi. I think I pressurize it up to nor more then 15 psi, and just pump it a couple times during the bleeding to keep the pressure around between 8-15 psi. Does not take long at all. More time spent hooking up the brake bleeder and taking it off, then actual bleeding time.
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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