Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Electrical Idiot needs advice (Electrical Idiot needs advice)
Electrical Idiot needs advice [message #298096] |
Sat, 26 March 2016 13:00 |
jknezek
Messages: 1057 Registered: December 2007
Karma: 5
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Let me start this out by saying I am the title. 12 volt? No problem, but 120 AC? Anything beside very, very basic confuses me.
So here's my problem. The backsplash behind our stove (typical 26' GMC floorplan) was rotted. I decided to replace it with a nice piece of aluminum diamond plate. Got everything down and took out the outlet that is to the left of the sink. Hmm... three hots, three negatives, three grounds. Labeled my wires. Finished disassembly and then began reassembly.
After much irritation I reinsulated (tell me that the original insulation looks the way it does because of 40 years of wear and tear and not some stoned h.s. drop out that GM hired to pretend the foam insulating gun was his six shooter while he sprayed it randomly around?), got the diamond plate slid in, riveted it back to get the correct curve, put back the overhead wire runner and window trim.
Now the electrical. I had precut the diamond plate for the box and it was perfect. Forced the wires through with liberal use of words my kids aren't allowed to hear, and thought I hooked it up as per my labels. Test... Nothing. No 120 AC in the whole coach. Checked it was plugged in, checked that I flipped the breakers the right way, checked that I had hooked it up. Nothing.
Is there a specific order to the wires that I missed? I'm using a 20 amp capable outlet and hooking two hots to the brass top screw, one hot to the brass bottom screw and the corresponding negatives in the same spots on the other side. The grounds are twisted up tight and one is attached to the ground screw.
Does it matter if I have the hot/negative from the box on the top screws? Do two sets need to be on the top or the bottom? I really am an electrical idiot and despite several google searches can't seem to find a wiring diagram that discusses this problem.
I did see an interesting diagram that put all three hots into a wire nut with one wire coming out to the plug, all three negatives into a wire nut with one wire coming out to the plug, and all three grounds in one nut coming out to the plug. I've never seen anything wired that way before. Is that the answer?
Thanks,
Jeremy Knezek
1976 Glenbrook
Birmingham, AL
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Re: Electrical Idiot needs advice [message #298097 is a reply to message #298096] |
Sat, 26 March 2016 13:09 |
rcjordan
Messages: 1913 Registered: October 2012 Location: Elizabeth City, North Car...
Karma: 1
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>Does it matter if I have the hot/negative from the box on the top screws?
It could, if the little bridge tab between the top and bottom screws (on the same side of the receptacle) got broken out. Put a voltmeter on the wire ends to see if you have power. If this is very old romex the copper can get brittle and break under the insulation, usually back an inch or so from where the device was made up.
SOLD 77 Royale Coachmen Side Dry Bath
76 Birchaven Coachmen Side Wet Bath
76 Eleganza
Elizabeth City, NC
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Re: Electrical Idiot needs advice [message #298099 is a reply to message #298096] |
Sat, 26 March 2016 13:40 |
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SeanKidd
Messages: 747 Registered: June 2012 Location: Northern Neck Virginia
Karma: 4
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Black (hot) goes under brass screws, white (neutral) goes under the aluminum colored screw, it will work either way but this is the right way (polarized), be sure to bond the device receptacle or switch with a bare or green wire from the box (if metal) and the bare wire in the Romex to the green screw.
Did it work before you started? What did you do with the third romex? Check your house breaker to ensure it didn't trip...
Licensed NJ electrical contractor
Sean and Stephanie
73 Ex-CanyonLands 26' #317 "Oliver"
Hubler 1-Ton, Quad-Bags, Rear Disc, Reaction Arms, P.Huber TBs, 3.70:1 LSD Honda 6500 inverter gen.
Colonial Travelers
[Updated on: Sat, 26 March 2016 13:41] Report message to a moderator
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Re: Electrical Idiot needs advice [message #298100 is a reply to message #298096] |
Sat, 26 March 2016 14:09 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412 Registered: May 2011 Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Jeremy, check the tab RC mentioned carefully. UInplug from the shore, expose all the wires without them touching anything. Power the coach and carefully try each black to each white and see if any show 110. Reoprt back. Or go out to the coach with your meter and cell phone and call me. Or, (Assuming everything worked before you started) simply wire nut all three blacks together and all three whites together and all three grounds together and see if the rest of the coach is powered.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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Re: Electrical Idiot needs advice [message #298102 is a reply to message #298096] |
Sat, 26 March 2016 16:07 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046 Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Jeremy
If you have no 120 at all -- check the shore power source.
Dennis
jknezek wrote on Sat, 26 March 2016 13:00Let me start this out by saying I am the title. 12 volt? No problem, but 120 AC? Anything beside very, very basic confuses me.
So here's my problem. The backsplash behind our stove (typical 26' GMC floorplan) was rotted. I decided to replace it with a nice piece of aluminum diamond plate. Got everything down and took out the outlet that is to the left of the sink. Hmm... three hots, three negatives, three grounds. Labeled my wires. Finished disassembly and then began reassembly.
After much irritation I reinsulated (tell me that the original insulation looks the way it does because of 40 years of wear and tear and not some stoned h.s. drop out that GM hired to pretend the foam insulating gun was his six shooter while he sprayed it randomly around?), got the diamond plate slid in, riveted it back to get the correct curve, put back the overhead wire runner and window trim.
Now the electrical. I had precut the diamond plate for the box and it was perfect. Forced the wires through with liberal use of words my kids aren't allowed to hear, and thought I hooked it up as per my labels. Test... Nothing. No 120 AC in the whole coach. Checked it was plugged in, checked that I flipped the breakers the right way, checked that I had hooked it up. Nothing.
Is there a specific order to the wires that I missed? I'm using a 20 amp capable outlet and hooking two hots to the brass top screw, one hot to the brass bottom screw and the corresponding negatives in the same spots on the other side. The grounds are twisted up tight and one is attached to the ground screw.
Does it matter if I have the hot/negative from the box on the top screws? Do two sets need to be on the top or the bottom? I really am an electrical idiot and despite several google searches can't seem to find a wiring diagram that discusses this problem.
I did see an interesting diagram that put all three hots into a wire nut with one wire coming out to the plug, all three negatives into a wire nut with one wire coming out to the plug, and all three grounds in one nut coming out to the plug. I've never seen anything wired that way before. Is that the answer?
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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Re: [GMCnet] Electrical Idiot needs advice [message #298103 is a reply to message #298101] |
Sat, 26 March 2016 16:08 |
Hal StClair
Messages: 971 Registered: March 2013 Location: Rio Rancho NM
Karma: -12
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emerystora wrote on Sat, 26 March 2016 13:15Jeremy
When Johnny says to try each black to each white he DOES NOT mean to touch each black to each white, he means to put your meter leads to each set of black and white wires.
Emery Stora
Also check from each black to each green. If you've lost the grounded conductor (neutral) you won't have any power either.
Hal
> On Mar 26, 2016, at 1:09 PM, Johnny Bridges via Gmclist wrote:
>
> Jeremy, check the tab RC mentioned carefully. UInplug from the shore, expose all the wires without them touching anything. Power the coach and
> carefully try each black to each white and see if any show 110. Reoprt back. Or go out to the coach with your meter and cell phone and call me. Or,
> (Assuming everything worked before you started) simply wire nut all three blacks together and all three whites together and all three grounds together
> and see if the rest of the coach is powered.
>
> --johnny
> --
> '76 23' transmode Norris upfit
> Braselton, Ga.
>
> "Sometimes I wonder what tomorrow's gonna bring when I think about my dirty life and times" --Warren Zevon
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1977 Royale 101348,
1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,
1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout,
Rio Rancho, NM
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Re: Electrical Idiot needs advice [message #298104 is a reply to message #298096] |
Sat, 26 March 2016 16:13 |
jknezek
Messages: 1057 Registered: December 2007
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Thanks guys. I'll get out there with the multimeter after the kids go to bed. My wife is with her grandfather in FL right now, so I'm single dad to twin 4.5 year old's and a 6.5 year old. I'm amazed they gave me 3 hours this a.m. to work on the GMC, but I'm not getting more until they go down. Appreciate the help and will update.
Yes it all worked beautifully until I put my ambitious clumsy mitts on it!
Thanks,
Jeremy Knezek
1976 Glenbrook
Birmingham, AL
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Re: Electrical Idiot needs advice [message #298106 is a reply to message #298096] |
Sat, 26 March 2016 16:40 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412 Registered: May 2011 Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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If you're solo, does your meter have an alligator clip to go on one lead? Use it to clip that lead to each white wire in turn, with the power off. When you power up to test, put one hand in your pocket and use the other to tough the remaining meter probe to each black wire in turn. Three power downs, each time three blacks touched with one hand pocketed and the other meter lead >clipped< to a white. The idea is to test each white against each black. 110 is dangerous, hence one hand stays in the pocket while testing stuff that's hot. If you don't have the ability to clip one lead onto a wire no - hands, back off, let's regroup and do it the longer but safer way, by measuring resistance WITH THE POWER DISCONNECTED. Gimme a shout, I'll 'splain how.
johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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Re: Electrical Idiot needs advice [message #298110 is a reply to message #298107] |
Sat, 26 March 2016 18:24 |
Don A
Messages: 895 Registered: October 2008 Location: Dallas, TX
Karma: 0
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I would start by checking resistance of each white to the aluminum frame or known ground. I would guess one pair is 110 in and the others are power out to other circuits. And only one black will give 110 to only one white. If the tabs on the outlet are gone the correct pair were probably not matched up.
Don Adams Dallas, TX
'76 26' Glenbrook, '90 Sidekick
rebuilt by R Archer, powered by J Bounds, Koba [IMG]http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6109/G2.jpg[/IMG]
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Re: Electrical Idiot needs advice [message #298111 is a reply to message #298107] |
Sat, 26 March 2016 18:24 |
jknezek
Messages: 1057 Registered: December 2007
Karma: 5
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Harry wrote on Sat, 26 March 2016 18:13Once you get it going again, take it out and put a ground fault receptacle in.
Seeing as how you have aluminum plate, electricity and water all within reach, it's something you should do.
Hahaha. This makes so much sense there is no way I would have thought of it.
Thanks,
Jeremy Knezek
1976 Glenbrook
Birmingham, AL
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Re: Electrical Idiot needs advice [message #298113 is a reply to message #298096] |
Sat, 26 March 2016 18:55 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447 Registered: October 2006 Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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When there are more than 2 wires per color that need to go to a duplex, then they use a short tail wire and join all with a wire nut. You could also troubleshoot by feeding the 50A cord in through the kitchen window and using the Ohm meter to figure things out on continuity setting. No chance of getting shocked working alone. Turn off all the other breakers but main and the kitchen circuit and unplug everything as loads may look like continuity hot to neutral.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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Re: Electrical Idiot needs advice [message #298119 is a reply to message #298096] |
Sat, 26 March 2016 20:13 |
A Hamilto
Messages: 4508 Registered: April 2011
Karma: 39
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jknezek wrote on Sat, 26 March 2016 13:00Let me start this out by saying I am the title. 12 volt? No problem, but 120 AC? Anything beside very, very basic confuses me.
So here's my problem. The backsplash behind our stove (typical 26' GMC floorplan) was rotted. I decided to replace it with a nice piece of aluminum diamond plate. Got everything down and took out the outlet that is to the left of the sink. Hmm... three hots, three negatives, three grounds. Labeled my wires. Finished disassembly and then began reassembly.
After much irritation I reinsulated (tell me that the original insulation looks the way it does because of 40 years of wear and tear and not some stoned h.s. drop out that GM hired to pretend the foam insulating gun was his six shooter while he sprayed it randomly around?), got the diamond plate slid in, riveted it back to get the correct curve, put back the overhead wire runner and window trim.
Now the electrical. I had precut the diamond plate for the box and it was perfect. Forced the wires through with liberal use of words my kids aren't allowed to hear, and thought I hooked it up as per my labels. Test... Nothing. No 120 AC in the whole coach. Checked it was plugged in, checked that I flipped the breakers the right way, checked that I had hooked it up. Nothing.
Is there a specific order to the wires that I missed? I'm using a 20 amp capable outlet and hooking two hots to the brass top screw, one hot to the brass bottom screw and the corresponding negatives in the same spots on the other side. The grounds are twisted up tight and one is attached to the ground screw.
Does it matter if I have the hot/negative from the box on the top screws? Do two sets need to be on the top or the bottom? I really am an electrical idiot and despite several google searches can't seem to find a wiring diagram that discusses this problem.
I did see an interesting diagram that put all three hots into a wire nut with one wire coming out to the plug, all three negatives into a wire nut with one wire coming out to the plug, and all three grounds in one nut coming out to the plug. I've never seen anything wired that way before. Is that the answer? Someone mentioned to check that the tab between the screws on each side are in place. They can be removed if you want to make one plug switchable and the other hardwired.
But I digress. Your explanation of all blacks on brass screws, all whites on silver screws, and all naked/green wires connected to the green screw says you got the outlet wired correctly. It doesn't matter if all of one color wires are wire nutted together with one connected to a screw, or all connected to a screw, or some on one screw and some on the other screw, as long as you got black on brass, white on silver and naked or green on green.
I am guessing something found a short circuit and tripped the breaker that feeds your shore power outlet. That's the only way that everything in the RV would be dead. You seemed to say you checked everything in the RV, but did you check the breaker that feeds what you are using for a shore power outlet? When you where forcing the wires through the diamond plate, did you scrape any insulation off any of the black wires? Scraping insulation off a white wire would create a hazard, but wouldn't trip a breaker.
Some breakers trip and still look to be on. You can wiggle them to tell. If they are tight, Probably not tripped. Some slack when you wiggle them says you have to turn them off and back on to reset them.
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Re: Electrical Idiot needs advice [message #298122 is a reply to message #298096] |
Sat, 26 March 2016 21:41 |
jknezek
Messages: 1057 Registered: December 2007
Karma: 5
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No luck getting out there tonight. Easter eggs and baskets needed doing. Hopefully tomorrow if the kiddos don't end up hopped up on sugar. When Mom is away, Dad is an idiot...
Thanks,
Jeremy Knezek
1976 Glenbrook
Birmingham, AL
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Re: [GMCnet] Electrical Idiot needs advice [message #298123 is a reply to message #298104] |
Sat, 26 March 2016 21:41 |
k2gkk
Messages: 4452 Registered: November 2009
Karma: -8
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Do NOT, repeat, NOT work on live circuits alone!
Whenever possible, keep one hand in your pocket!
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> Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2016 15:13:39 -0600
> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
> From: jtknezek@hotmail.com
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Electrical Idiot needs advice
>
> Thanks guys. I'll get out there with the multimeter after the kids go to bed. My wife is with her grandfather in FL right now, so I'm single dad to
> twin 4.5 year old's and a 6.5 year old. I'm amazed they gave me 3 hours this a.m. to work on the GMC, but I'm not getting more until they go down.
> Appreciate the help and will update.
>
> Yes it all worked beautifully until I put my ambitious clumsy mitts on it!
> --
> Thanks,
> Jeremy Knezek
> 1976 Glenbrook
> Birmingham, AL
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Re: [GMCnet] Electrical Idiot needs advice [message #298132 is a reply to message #298130] |
Sun, 27 March 2016 02:35 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030 Registered: January 2004 Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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I just looked at the wiring diagram for a 76. I am assuming that yours you is the same as my 1976. That is circuit #3 on mine. On mine circuit #3 is the lower left breaker and it is a ground fault breaker. That breaker feeds a whole bunch of 120 volt plugs all over the coach including the plug that you had out.
First try resetting the GFI breaker in your circuit breaker panel. If it is not tripped, then one of the three set of wires going to that plug ought to be hot. If none of the three are hot, then you need to figure out if you have 120 volts leaving circuit breaker #3.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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Re: Electrical Idiot needs advice [message #298156 is a reply to message #298119] |
Sun, 27 March 2016 13:51 |
jknezek
Messages: 1057 Registered: December 2007
Karma: 5
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A Hamilto wrote on Sat, 26 March 2016 21:13
I am guessing something found a short circuit and tripped the breaker that feeds your shore power outlet. That's the only way that everything in the RV would be dead. You seemed to say you checked everything in the RV, but did you check the breaker that feeds what you are using for a shore power outlet? When you where forcing the wires through the diamond plate, did you scrape any insulation off any of the black wires? Scraping insulation off a white wire would create a hazard, but wouldn't trip a breaker.
And we have the winner. Shore power was tripped at my garage breaker. Which explains why I had no 120 AC at all. Why was it tripped? At least one reason is because I'm an idiot. There is very little room in the box. When I wired the plug I had a little bit more copper exposed than I needed on the wires going into the back of the plug. Scrunching everything back in the box allowed those hot/neutral wires to just barely touch, creating at least one short. When I pulled the plug away from the box, no longer touching, no short. I finally just pulled the plug out of the box and it all worked fine. A little help with a flashlight as I was trying to put it back in showed what was happening. On a regular house box this would have been no problem, but that narrow RV box... yikes.
I need to get a GCFI plug to put in anyway, so there is no point in wiring it all back up, but both outlets and the rest of the coach seemed to have 120 AC so long as the plug wasn't scrunched into the box. Will simply have to do a better job with my wiring.
Hopefully it will be that simple, which it appears to be. Unfortunately it means I'm stuck until I can get a GCFI which won't happen today. Oh well.
Happy Easter all and thanks for the help and suggestions.
Thanks,
Jeremy Knezek
1976 Glenbrook
Birmingham, AL
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