Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Roof paint
| [GMCnet] Roof paint [message #295543] |
Mon, 15 February 2016 06:19  |
TnS.GMC
Messages: 18
Registered: November 2015
Karma: 0
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Junior Member |
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Looking for suggestions for a roof paint or coating. I need to reseal and
replace all the vents and fans, and the roof paint is thin. Not ready to
paint the whole coach, but I'd like to shore it up for a few years in the
Florida sun until I'm ready to paint it all.
Locals always recommend tinting elastomeric (Kool Seal) to color and rolling
it on in thin layers. Don't think that's very GMC, but even a topcoat from
MAACO in nuthin' special paint is $600+ and I'd prefer to save for a total
paint job.
Suggestions? Anyone used Kool Seal as a roof paint?
--
Todd and Susan
\'76 23\' Birchaven
Alleged Mystery Machine
Melbourne, FL
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| Re: [GMCnet] Roof paint [message #295544 is a reply to message #295543] |
Mon, 15 February 2016 07:27  |
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SeanKidd
Messages: 747
Registered: June 2012
Location: Northern Neck Virginia
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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Todd and Susan, unlike many of the shoebox motor homes, your GMC was engineered with a single sheet of aluminum on the roof, other than the front and rear caps, that are SMC, the only real sealing that may be required are at the protrusions, such as running lights and vents. This can easily be done with butyl tape. The ac units are sealed with a foam compression ring (square). The running lights are a typical leak location, and due to the one piece interior caps, the water will only appear around the front or rear windows. Aside from redoing seals around vents, you could paint the roof with any paint. But be sure to adequately prep the surface to remove any wax, tree sap, existing sealant (nothing will stick to silicone) and many of us avoid its use) since you live in Florida, I would consider a bright color, or white.
Sean and Stephanie
73 Ex-CanyonLands 26' #317 "Oliver"
Hubler 1-Ton, Quad-Bags, Rear Disc, Reaction Arms, P.Huber TBs, 3.70:1 LSD Honda 6500 inverter gen.
Colonial Travelers
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| Re: [GMCnet] Roof paint [message #295548 is a reply to message #295543] |
Mon, 15 February 2016 08:31 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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Something as simple as dupont Centauri enamel works well. If you have OEM paint just have them mix your original code. The beige matched my EII Imron perfectly once the Imron was buffed of oxidation and the original color came through.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Roof paint [message #295549 is a reply to message #295543] |
Mon, 15 February 2016 09:03 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Todd,
What the others are avoiding saying is, "Don't put that asphalt-based ugly
stuff, which will probably have brush marks all over and can never really
be removed or painted over, on one of our beautiful GMC's!
That stuff's meant for the tops of ugly SOB's, chicken coops, and outhouses.
That said, it's worked great on the seams of the corrugated tin over-roof
on my sea-land container -- where it can't be seen -- for 20+ years now.
JMHO,
Ken H.
On Mon, Feb 15, 2016 at 7:19 AM, TnS.GMC
wrote:
> Looking for suggestions for a roof paint or coating. I need to reseal and
> replace all the vents and fans, and the roof paint is thin. Not ready to
> paint the whole coach, but I'd like to shore it up for a few years in the
> Florida sun until I'm ready to paint it all.
>
> Locals always recommend tinting elastomeric (Kool Seal) to color and
> rolling
> it on in thin layers. Don't think that's very GMC, but even a topcoat from
> MAACO in nuthin' special paint is $600+ and I'd prefer to save for a total
> paint job.
>
> Suggestions? Anyone used Kool Seal as a roof paint?
>
> --
> Todd and Susan
> \'76 23\' Birchaven
> Alleged Mystery Machine
> Melbourne, FL
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________
> Message sent using UebiMiau 2.7.9
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Roof paint [message #295553 is a reply to message #295543] |
Mon, 15 February 2016 11:14 |
roy1
Messages: 2126
Registered: July 2004
Location: Minden nevada
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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A good quality automotive or industrial paint is what I would use. I painted mine a number of years ago with DuPont imeron. If you are in a location that is warm and has a lot of bright sunshine you should use as white a paint as you can find it will not only hold up better then a darker color but it will make it cooler in the coach . The a/c unit will also be more efficient with the bright white roof and it won't take away from your body paint when you do it. My roof used to be silver and it made the coach hot inside while camped in the desert with 2 roof airs running painting it white made a big difference .
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook
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| Re: [GMCnet] Roof paint [message #295559 is a reply to message #295543] |
Mon, 15 February 2016 13:13 |
77Royale
Messages: 461
Registered: June 2014
Location: Mid Michigan
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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David, your posting somehow got cross posted to a different topic.
Eitherway, your about 2 hours drive from both Manny of Mannys Transmissions, and Applied GMC. Id give either or both a call. With no brakes, and a questionable transmission I would not continue to drive the coach at this point until both get resolved.
http://www.appliedgmc.com
http://www.mannystransmission.biz/
77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies, Patterson carb and dizzy.
Mid Michigan
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake and Transmission troubles [message #295560 is a reply to message #295557] |
Mon, 15 February 2016 13:24 |
Hal StClair
Messages: 971
Registered: March 2013
Location: Rio Rancho NM
Karma: -12
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Senior Member |
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It's probably time to give Manny a call. Sounds like you are pushing the trans fluid out of the vent line. Not a good thing.
As for the brakes, you may be pulling / loosing brake fluid into the power brake booster and the motor is enjesting it so you see no tell tale signs of brake fluid loss. The seal on the master cylinder must be leaking.
Both issues need to be addressed right away though.
Hal
"I enjoy talking to you. Your mind appeals to me. It resembles my own mind, except you happen to be insane."
1977 Royale 101348,
1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,
1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout,
Rio Rancho, NM
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake and Transmission troubles [message #295562 is a reply to message #295557] |
Mon, 15 February 2016 13:45 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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If you climbed a significant grade and blew out as much transmission fluid
a you have stated, you more likely than not have a toasted transmission.
Call Manny.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403
On Feb 15, 2016 11:42 AM, "Robert Mueller" wrote:
> David,
>
> 1. There are two places the transmission vents internal transmission
> pressure to the atmosphere; the dipstick tube and the vent at
> the top of the chain case. The photo below shows the latter (small
> mushroom shaped item in the middle of the photo above the chain).
>
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/transmission-photos/p59585-th-425-drive-chain.html
>
> Fluid venting from either point is VERY dangerous as it can spew on to the
> exhaust system and catch fire.
>
> 2. The master cylinder has failed, replace it.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> The Pedantic Mechanic
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mr.green@twc.com
>
> Gentlemen:
> I recently traveled from Florida to California going 4000 miles with
> minimal problems, but my trip from Southern California to
> Sacramento has been a bit different. I could use some suggestions on 2
> issues:
>
> 1. I've developed a leak of the transmission fluid that seems to be
> greater when I am driving than when sitting still, but of
> greater concern it appears that when I downshift into 2nd going up or down
> a steep grade, all the transmission fluid is blown out
> somewhere. The transmission then (of course) won't stay in gear. On my
> trip I've gone over 2 steep grades, and both times at the
> bottom of the grade I have no fluid and have to put in 4 quarts to get
> going again. The bottom of the coach is now dripping with
> transmission fluid. On visual inspection We can't see where the leak is
> coming from.
>
> 2. I've almost completely lost my brakes. Checking the reservoirs, my rear
> reservoir is empty and front is full, no immediate sign
> of leakage in brake lines. Pedal resistance is fine until I start the
> engine, and then the pedal goes its full travel length to
> just an inch from the floor. The master cylinder appears to be leaking
> ever so slowly out of where it connects to the booster.
>
> Thanking you all in advance for all suggestions.
>
> David
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake and Transmission troubles [message #295563 is a reply to message #295557] |
Mon, 15 February 2016 13:41 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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David,
1. There are two places the transmission vents internal transmission pressure to the atmosphere; the dipstick tube and the vent at
the top of the chain case. The photo below shows the latter (small mushroom shaped item in the middle of the photo above the chain).
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/transmission-photos/p59585-th-425-drive-chain.html
Fluid venting from either point is VERY dangerous as it can spew on to the exhaust system and catch fire.
2. The master cylinder has failed, replace it.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
-----Original Message-----
From: mr.green@twc.com
Gentlemen:
I recently traveled from Florida to California going 4000 miles with minimal problems, but my trip from Southern California to
Sacramento has been a bit different. I could use some suggestions on 2 issues:
1. I've developed a leak of the transmission fluid that seems to be greater when I am driving than when sitting still, but of
greater concern it appears that when I downshift into 2nd going up or down a steep grade, all the transmission fluid is blown out
somewhere. The transmission then (of course) won't stay in gear. On my trip I've gone over 2 steep grades, and both times at the
bottom of the grade I have no fluid and have to put in 4 quarts to get going again. The bottom of the coach is now dripping with
transmission fluid. On visual inspection We can't see where the leak is coming from.
2. I've almost completely lost my brakes. Checking the reservoirs, my rear reservoir is empty and front is full, no immediate sign
of leakage in brake lines. Pedal resistance is fine until I start the engine, and then the pedal goes its full travel length to
just an inch from the floor. The master cylinder appears to be leaking ever so slowly out of where it connects to the booster.
Thanking you all in advance for all suggestions.
David
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Roof paint [message #295582 is a reply to message #295543] |
Mon, 15 February 2016 21:14 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Todd
Consider using ZEP floor polish -- google using it on rv's. Also some info in the GMCnet archives.
Dennis
TnS.GMC wrote on Mon, 15 February 2016 06:19Looking for suggestions for a roof paint or coating. I need to reseal and
replace all the vents and fans, and the roof paint is thin. Not ready to
paint the whole coach, but I'd like to shore it up for a few years in the
Florida sun until I'm ready to paint it all.
Locals always recommend tinting elastomeric (Kool Seal) to color and rolling
it on in thin layers. Don't think that's very GMC, but even a topcoat from
MAACO in nuthin' special paint is $600+ and I'd prefer to save for a total
paint job.
Suggestions? Anyone used Kool Seal as a roof paint?
--
Todd and Susan
\'76 23\' Birchaven
Alleged Mystery Machine
Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________
Message sent using UebiMiau 2.7.9
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Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: [GMCnet] Roof paint [message #295677 is a reply to message #295543] |
Thu, 18 February 2016 00:31 |
kelvin
Messages: 608
Registered: February 2004
Location: Eugene, OR
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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On 2/15/2016 4:19 AM, TnS.GMC wrote:
> Looking for suggestions for a roof paint or coating. I need to reseal and
> replace all the vents and fans, and the roof paint is thin. Not ready to
> paint the whole coach, but I'd like to shore it up for a few years in the
> Florida sun until I'm ready to paint it all.
>
> Locals always recommend tinting elastomeric (Kool Seal) to color and rolling
> it on in thin layers. Don't think that's very GMC, but even a topcoat from
> MAACO in nuthin' special paint is $600+ and I'd prefer to save for a total
> paint job.
As you have read already, a big "NO" on the sealant. What a pain to
remove later.
And you know that $600 is a drop in the bucket when it comes to a
complete paint job, right? If you can actually get MAACO to prep the
surface well before they paint, $600 would be a great deal. That said,
they're going to Scotch-Brite it, blow it off, wipe it a bit and spray
it. Then you'll be removing THAT flaky paint when it comes time for the
real paint.
Why not have the a quality paint job done on the roof? If you know what
color you intend to go with they can blend it later.
There is almost never a reason to cut corners. What you save now you
will pay for later. Do it right the first time even if it stings the
wallet a little.
I'm just sayin'...
Kelvin
'73 23' in Eugene, OR
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| Re: [GMCnet] Roof paint [message #295680 is a reply to message #295677] |
Thu, 18 February 2016 04:31 |
Bruce Hart
Messages: 1501
Registered: October 2011
Location: La Grange, Wyoming
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Restoring the finish of an older RV using ZWLFF: Materials: -Zep Wet Look
Floor finish (Step 3) (available at Home Depot) -Bar Keeper’s Friend
(powdered) -TSP (Trisodium Phosphate, powdered) -3M scrubbies (white, fine)
-Microfiber rags (white or laundered) -Latex gloves Preparing the surface
is the most important part, since anything left on the surface will be
sealed under the ZWLFF acrylic coating, and improper prep can result in
peeling/flaking later. I repeat: The prep-work is the most important part!
Do not try to cut corners here. The cleaner your RV is, the better your
final results will be. Step 1: Start by washing your RV well as you
normally would, making sure to include the roof, and rinsing well from the
top down. Step 2: You now want to remove any and all stains, soiling,
oxidation, and chalkiness from the surface. Dip a white 3M scrubbie into
water and then liberally sprinkle Bar Keeper’s Friend (BKF) on it. Scrub
the surface of the motorhome, rinsing the scrubbie and re-applying the BKF
often. Do small areas at a time, rinsing well with water and a sponge as
you go (Rinsing well is important to remove all BKF residue. I used a
"flow-thru" brush attached to a hose to rinse the BKF residue thoroughly).
Step 3: Next you want to make sure that there is absolutely no remaining
wax on the RV, since any residual wax can cause the ZWLFF to peel and
flake. Mix up a bucket of TSP (1/2 cup) in water (2 gal), and use it to
wash the entire RV again. You can use it with a carwash brush, a sponge, a
pressure washer…anything you would normally use to wash your RV. Rinse well
as you go, then rinse again and let it dry completely (again, rinsing well
is important to remove all TSP residue). You should now be left with a
clean and smooth (although dull) wax-free surface. Congrats, the hard part
is done! Step 4: Now comes the easy part. Shake the ZWLFF well, and pour
some into a shallow container (a pie pan works well). Fold a microfiber rag
to about hand-sized, dip it into the ZWLFF (trust me, use gloves!), and
squeeze out the excess. How much/how wet? You want it more than damp, but
less than dripping. Now simply wipe down the surface of the RV with the wet
microfiber rag. Don’t try to apply a heavy coat or try to “rub it in”; just
wet the surface (imagine wiping off a layer of dust with a damp rag). It
really doesn’t matter whether you wipe horizontally, vertically, or in
circles, and don’t worry about overlaps; ZWLFF is very thin/watery and you
are just trying to “moisten” the surface. Work your way all the way around
the RV. The thin coat of ZWLFF will dry very quickly; long before you’ve
gone all the way around it will be dry and you can immediately start on the
next coat. That first coat will likely look really bad; streaky, blotchy,
shiny in some places, dull in others…don’t panic. Each additional coat will
start to even it out and build up a deep layer of shine. By coat 3, you
will be grinning ear to ear. And coat 4 (or 5?) will be the icing on the
cake. Not only will your RV shine like it hasn’t shined in years, it will
be a deeper color as well*. Even old, faded graphics will have a new lease
on life! All for less than $30 total! *Note: This procedure will slightly
change/darken the color/shade of your RV. Things (I learned) to keep in
mind: -Don’t use new colored microfiber rags until they have been
laundered, as the color may bleed. -Don’t try to “over-apply”, or try for a
heavy coat, or you will get runs. The thinner, the better. Remember, you’re
just trying to “moisten” the surface with each thin coat, nothing more. If
you are getting a lot of runs, you’re applying it too heavily. -Be careful
around window frames, locks, latches, etc., as the ZWLFF is very watery and
will have a tendency to gather and cause runs. ZWLFF dries fast, so keep an
eye out for any runs and give them a quick wipe before they start to “set
up”. -Some older, deteriorated graphics may “bleed” color onto the rag and
surrounding areas. If you notice any bleeding during the BKF or TSP stage
(steps 2 and 3), then give a quick wipe of ZWLFF across the graphics prior
to step 4, which will seal them up. Then go ahead and apply the ZWLFF to
the entire RV (including the now sealed graphics) as per step 4 of the
tutorial.
On Wed, Feb 17, 2016 at 11:31 PM, Kelvin Dietz wrote:
> On 2/15/2016 4:19 AM, TnS.GMC wrote:
>
>> Looking for suggestions for a roof paint or coating. I need to reseal and
>> replace all the vents and fans, and the roof paint is thin. Not ready to
>> paint the whole coach, but I'd like to shore it up for a few years in the
>> Florida sun until I'm ready to paint it all.
>>
>> Locals always recommend tinting elastomeric (Kool Seal) to color and
>> rolling
>> it on in thin layers. Don't think that's very GMC, but even a topcoat from
>> MAACO in nuthin' special paint is $600+ and I'd prefer to save for a total
>> paint job.
>>
>
> As you have read already, a big "NO" on the sealant. What a pain to
> remove later.
>
> And you know that $600 is a drop in the bucket when it comes to a complete
> paint job, right? If you can actually get MAACO to prep the surface well
> before they paint, $600 would be a great deal. That said, they're going to
> Scotch-Brite it, blow it off, wipe it a bit and spray it. Then you'll be
> removing THAT flaky paint when it comes time for the real paint.
>
> Why not have the a quality paint job done on the roof? If you know what
> color you intend to go with they can blend it later.
>
> There is almost never a reason to cut corners. What you save now you will
> pay for later. Do it right the first time even if it stings the wallet a
> little.
>
> I'm just sayin'...
>
> Kelvin
> '73 23' in Eugene, OR
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
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Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
1977 28' Kingsley
La Grange, Wyoming
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| Re: [GMCnet] Roof paint [message #295681 is a reply to message #295680] |
Thu, 18 February 2016 05:07 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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This might be an easier read
http://gmcmotorhome.info/skin.html
On Thursday, February 18, 2016, Bruce Hart wrote:
> Restoring the finish of an older RV using ZWLFF: Materials: -Zep Wet Look
> Floor finish (Step 3) (available at Home Depot) -Bar Keeper’s Friend
> (powdered) -TSP (Trisodium Phosphate, powdered) -3M scrubbies (white, fine)
> -Microfiber rags (white or laundered) -Latex gloves Preparing the surface
> is the most important part, since anything left on the surface will be
> sealed under the ZWLFF acrylic coating, and improper prep can result in
> peeling/flaking later. I repeat: The prep-work is the most important part!
> Do not try to cut corners here. The cleaner your RV is, the better your
> final results will be. Step 1: Start by washing your RV well as you
> normally would, making sure to include the roof, and rinsing well from the
> top down. Step 2: You now want to remove any and all stains, soiling,
> oxidation, and chalkiness from the surface. Dip a white 3M scrubbie into
> water and then liberally sprinkle Bar Keeper’s Friend (BKF) on it. Scrub
> the surface of the motorhome, rinsing the scrubbie and re-applying the BKF
> often. Do small areas at a time, rinsing well with water and a sponge as
> you go (Rinsing well is important to remove all BKF residue. I used a
> "flow-thru" brush attached to a hose to rinse the BKF residue thoroughly).
> Step 3: Next you want to make sure that there is absolutely no remaining
> wax on the RV, since any residual wax can cause the ZWLFF to peel and
> flake. Mix up a bucket of TSP (1/2 cup) in water (2 gal), and use it to
> wash the entire RV again. You can use it with a carwash brush, a sponge, a
> pressure washer…anything you would normally use to wash your RV. Rinse well
> as you go, then rinse again and let it dry completely (again, rinsing well
> is important to remove all TSP residue). You should now be left with a
> clean and smooth (although dull) wax-free surface. Congrats, the hard part
> is done! Step 4: Now comes the easy part. Shake the ZWLFF well, and pour
> some into a shallow container (a pie pan works well). Fold a microfiber rag
> to about hand-sized, dip it into the ZWLFF (trust me, use gloves!), and
> squeeze out the excess. How much/how wet? You want it more than damp, but
> less than dripping. Now simply wipe down the surface of the RV with the wet
> microfiber rag. Don’t try to apply a heavy coat or try to “rub it in”; just
> wet the surface (imagine wiping off a layer of dust with a damp rag). It
> really doesn’t matter whether you wipe horizontally, vertically, or in
> circles, and don’t worry about overlaps; ZWLFF is very thin/watery and you
> are just trying to “moisten” the surface. Work your way all the way around
> the RV. The thin coat of ZWLFF will dry very quickly; long before you’ve
> gone all the way around it will be dry and you can immediately start on the
> next coat. That first coat will likely look really bad; streaky, blotchy,
> shiny in some places, dull in others…don’t panic. Each additional coat will
> start to even it out and build up a deep layer of shine. By coat 3, you
> will be grinning ear to ear. And coat 4 (or 5?) will be the icing on the
> cake. Not only will your RV shine like it hasn’t shined in years, it will
> be a deeper color as well*. Even old, faded graphics will have a new lease
> on life! All for less than $30 total! *Note: This procedure will slightly
> change/darken the color/shade of your RV. Things (I learned) to keep in
> mind: -Don’t use new colored microfiber rags until they have been
> laundered, as the color may bleed. -Don’t try to “over-apply”, or try for a
> heavy coat, or you will get runs. The thinner, the better. Remember, you’re
> just trying to “moisten” the surface with each thin coat, nothing more. If
> you are getting a lot of runs, you’re applying it too heavily. -Be careful
> around window frames, locks, latches, etc., as the ZWLFF is very watery and
> will have a tendency to gather and cause runs. ZWLFF dries fast, so keep an
> eye out for any runs and give them a quick wipe before they start to “set
> up”. -Some older, deteriorated graphics may “bleed” color onto the rag and
> surrounding areas. If you notice any bleeding during the BKF or TSP stage
> (steps 2 and 3), then give a quick wipe of ZWLFF across the graphics prior
> to step 4, which will seal them up. Then go ahead and apply the ZWLFF to
> the entire RV (including the now sealed graphics) as per step 4 of the
> tutorial.
>
> On Wed, Feb 17, 2016 at 11:31 PM, Kelvin Dietz > wrote:
>
>> On 2/15/2016 4:19 AM, TnS.GMC wrote:
>>
>>> Looking for suggestions for a roof paint or coating. I need to reseal
> and
>>> replace all the vents and fans, and the roof paint is thin. Not ready to
>>> paint the whole coach, but I'd like to shore it up for a few years in
> the
>>> Florida sun until I'm ready to paint it all.
>>>
>>> Locals always recommend tinting elastomeric (Kool Seal) to color and
>>> rolling
>>> it on in thin layers. Don't think that's very GMC, but even a topcoat
> from
>>> MAACO in nuthin' special paint is $600+ and I'd prefer to save for a
> total
>>> paint job.
>>>
>>
>> As you have read already, a big "NO" on the sealant. What a pain to
>> remove later.
>>
>> And you know that $600 is a drop in the bucket when it comes to a
> complete
>> paint job, right? If you can actually get MAACO to prep the surface well
>> before they paint, $600 would be a great deal. That said, they're going
> to
>> Scotch-Brite it, blow it off, wipe it a bit and spray it. Then you'll be
>> removing THAT flaky paint when it comes time for the real paint.
>>
>> Why not have the a quality paint job done on the roof? If you know what
>> color you intend to go with they can blend it later.
>>
>> There is almost never a reason to cut corners. What you save now you
> will
>> pay for later. Do it right the first time even if it stings the wallet a
>> little.
>>
>> I'm just sayin'...
>>
>> Kelvin
>> '73 23' in Eugene, OR
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
>
>
>
> --
> Bruce Hart
> 1976 Palm Beach
> Milliken, Co
> GMC=Got More Class
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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| Re: [GMCnet] Roof paint [message #295709 is a reply to message #295543] |
Thu, 18 February 2016 18:43 |
Hiwaystar
Messages: 12
Registered: January 2016
Location: Savannah Georgia
Karma: 0
|
Junior Member |
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You and I are in the same boat, leaky boat that is.
I have removed my vents and covered the holes with .063 6061 T-6 sheet slightly rolled in an English wheel to prevent oil canning.
Clearance lights are another mess, they have been removed and a proper glass and epoxy resin repair is in process there.
The pod was removed and the mounting holes patched with more 6061 plates.
Call me crazy but when I get it prepped and ready to paint I'm considering bedliner coating.
Thick, resilient, textured and long lasting it is available in a matching beige for my coach.
76 Eleganza mostly stock, Sully bags, needs one of everything.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Roof paint [message #295785 is a reply to message #295711] |
Fri, 19 February 2016 19:43 |
Jim Galbavy
Messages: 1443
Registered: August 2007
Karma: 7
|
Senior Member |
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Today was day 4 (I think). Front clearance lights removed and scraped sillycone.
Hate the stuff. Found more dumb stuff. Monday the two side awnings come off. We'll
see how the underskilled laborer (me) did this week (check back next week to see if
Kevin fires me). Then the sanding and real prep will start. Paint and reassemble
maybe by the end of next week or into the week after that. I have no clue, this is
taking way more time than I thought. ...... should be right.
jim galbavy
'73 x-CL ANNIE
Lake Mary, Fl
[Updated on: Fri, 19 February 2016 19:44] Report message to a moderator |
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