Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Restoration. Rear brake line removal problem.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Restoration. Rear brake line removal problem. [message #294416 is a reply to message #294413] |
Mon, 25 January 2016 20:09   |
GMC.LES
Messages: 505
Registered: April 2014
Karma: -2
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Senior Member |
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I have had reasonable success by using my oxy/acetylene torch with a small brazing tip to heat rusted brakeline nuts. It helps with loosening the nut from the component as well as from a rusted line. Be sure to carefully inspect the tubing afterwards for damage from the torch. If the line is jammed in a brake hose, this method works equally well, but the hose will be unsafe for re-use even if it looks undamaged.
Here in Quebec, salted roads guarantee your brake line fittings will seize up due to rust. I've seen it happen on cars less than 5 years old. It is a fact that most local mechanics accept as part of their sometimes crappy job.
Les Burt
Montreal
'75 Eleganza 26'
The EWIP (Eternal Work In Progress)
> On Jan 25, 2016, at 8:03 PM, Robert Mueller wrote:
>
> Bob,
>
> I've found that quite often even if one gets the nut to turn the line will be rusted to the nut and it will twist.
>
> I suggest that if this GMC is going to be a keeper bite the bullet and buy stainless steel brake lines!
>
> That's what I did with Double Trouble and The Blue Streak.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> The Pedantic Mechanic
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Dunahugh
>
> I've tried all my tricks. Two came off. Two not. I'm putting in new wheel cylinders for now. ( Put the disc in later. ) I've used a
> fitting wrench, penetrant, and a flat punch to shock it. So I'm looking another idea.Bob Dunahugh
>
>
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] Restoration. Rear brake line removal problem. [message #294435 is a reply to message #294405] |
Tue, 26 January 2016 08:53 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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I've gotten them off with both the special vicegrips (Thanks, George!) and a small pipe wrench. Both ways they were reusable, but the pipe wrench did more damage to the flare nut. I note, >after< a treatment with acetone/atf daily for a week. The same treatment wasn't sufficient for one of the trans cooler lines, it twisted off and I had to cut and splice it. Go figure.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: [GMCnet] Restoration. Rear brake line removal problem. [message #294439 is a reply to message #294431] |
Tue, 26 January 2016 09:31 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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Bob,
Three things:
Those ViceGrip LWs are the cat's ass for brake lines and times you have to work alone. They will lock on a hex and wait while you work on the other side. Buy the set of three and you will never regret it.
If you heat a part that is seized into another really hot (500°+) and cool it with ATF, the expansion of the inside part will crush the scale and the cooling will suck the AFT into the threads. ATF won't burn easily so it does not coke in the joint, but the smoke may bring indians for miles around. (Remember that I grew up on salt water, I know corrosion.)
When you are putting it back together do two things:
Put new rubber caps on all the bleeders.
Wrap the threads of the bleed screws with teflon tape. This will keep the threads from corroding and it makes vacuum bleeding work better. (I used to use pipe dope, but Chuck Boyd suggested the tape a few years back, and it works better.)
Oh, and if none of that works, rear wheel cylinders are cheap from Rock Auto.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] Restoration. Rear brake line removal problem. [message #294562 is a reply to message #294541] |
Wed, 27 January 2016 16:13 |
Keith V
Messages: 2337
Registered: March 2008
Location: Mounds View,MN
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Ha ha ha,
I did that test on my older brothers 65 Corvair, It failed.
Boy was he pissed at me for breaking his car.
I was maybe 16 at the time, not very strong, that line was weak.
Dad explained that I did him a huge favor...
BobDunahugh wrote on Wed, 27 January 2016 09:23Rob. Good point. Most brake line rust problems come from the outside in. And that's at the brake line mounting clips toward the rear of the coach. The first clip to look at is holding the brake line that goes across the frame rail at the rear from side to side. There's a way to test the integrity of a brake system. At the road race track events that I participate in. The cars are checked over very closely for safety issues. One of the brake test is called the Hard, Hard, Hardest test. A real strong guy gets in. And literally stomps on the brake pedal as hard as he can. Then grabs the steering wheel. And pushes down as hard as he can. It comes down too. It's best to have a failure at 0 MPH. Rather then at 140 MPH in a curve. I did that test on this GMC. As a side note. I use Ford's DOT 3 high performance brake fluid in competition cars, and the GMC. As that brake fluid has an extreemly high boiling point.
Bob Dunahugh78 Royale
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Keith Vasilakes
Mounds View. MN
75 ex Royale GMC
ask me about MicroLevel
Cell, 763-732-3419
My427v8@hotmail.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] Restoration. Rear brake line removal problem. [message #294569 is a reply to message #294541] |
Wed, 27 January 2016 19:20 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Bob,
Well I might as well let everyone know that I bought the Kingsley with rear twin beds from Kerry Pinkerton. I bought it because the
beds are 2 inches longer and 2 inches wider than the ones in the Avion.
It is now in Chuck Boyd's barn in Knoxville and I'll be working on it with him starting on the 23rd of March. We will follow this
plan:
Bring the brakes to the highest OEM standard possible which includes installing:
1) Install new Dave Lenzi sensitized booster
2) Install new Dave Lenzi OEM master cylinder (mounting flanges machined to correct height)
3) Install new stainless steel brake lines
4) Install new brass combination valve
5) Install new braided stainless steel brake hoses
6) Install new middle and rear wheel cylinders
7) Install new drum brake spring kit (if necessary)
8) Install new 80mm front calipers (if necessary)
9) Install new carbon metallic brake shoes (if necessary)
10) Install new carbon metallic brake pads (if necessary)
11) Service brake system with ATE DOT 4 brake fluid - highest dry and wet boiling points available
When we're finished the brakes are DONE and in theory all I'll have to do is R&R pads and shoes as required, and flush the brake
fluid every three years.
We'll move on to the steering, followed by the front and rear suspension.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@list.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Bob Dunahugh
Rob. Good point. Most brake line rust problems come from the outside in. And that's at the brake line mounting clips toward the
rear of the coach. The first clip to look at is holding the brake line that goes across the frame rail at the rear from side to
side. There's a way to test the integrity of a brake system. At the road race track events that I participate in. The cars are
checked over very closely for safety issues. One of the brake test is called the Hard, Hard, Hardest test. A real strong guy gets
in. And literally stomps on the brake pedal as hard as he can. Then grabs the steering wheel. And pushes down as hard as he can. It
comes down too. It's best to have a failure at 0 MPH. Rather then at 140 MPH in a curve. I did that test on this GMC. As a side
note. I use Ford's DOT 3 high performance brake fluid in competition cars, and the GMC. As that brake fluid has an extreemly high
boiling point.
Bob Dunahugh78 Royale
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Restoration. Rear brake line removal problem. [message #294590 is a reply to message #294587] |
Thu, 28 January 2016 03:40 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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G'day,
For the record Jerry was a big help the last time I was at Chuck's place and it wasn't because he bought lunch and shagged tools!
However, I would appreciate if you would bring those hex Vise Grips! :-)
We're on a tight schedule, I fly into Knoxville from Houston on March 23rd and I want to drive the Kingsley to the GMCMI Convention
in Dothan, AL on April 8th.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Sitzlar.
Since new brakes and all of the components are on my agenda for this spring, I ordered and received my set of 3 hex Vise Grips
yesterday (thanks everyone for the "heads up"). Guess I'll wander over to Chuck's place when Rob gets there for some real-time OJT
on GMC brakes. They let me buy lunch and shag tools for the privilege of watching. :roll:
Jerry
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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