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Re: [GMCnet] Restoration. Anyone need some body panel pieces? [message #293997 is a reply to message #293984] |
Sun, 17 January 2016 21:28 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797 Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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Do you have a link to exterior photos after the burn?
Sully
77 royale
Seattle
On Sunday, January 17, 2016, Bob Dunahugh wrote:
> Since I'm moving my water, water tank fill, and electrical inputs to
> behind the license plate. I'm cutting some pieces of body material from the
> burned GMC. To fill in where I removed the boxes in the rear corners of
> the GMC I'm building. Having someone that has this material on hand is
> rare. If you're in need. Contact me.Bob Dunahugh
> _______________________________________________
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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[GMCnet] Restoration. How to move the utilities behind the license plate [message #294029 is a reply to message #293984] |
Mon, 18 January 2016 12:43 |
BobDunahugh
Messages: 2465 Registered: October 2010 Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Karma: 11
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As to Todd, and Pete's questions about moving the utilities to be behind the plate. Several reasons. 1 I just don't like the looks of these little doors. 2 And there old. Thus you have to be careful not to break them. 3 Everything in one place. 4 I want to clean up the entire outside with modern frig, and LP tank doors, Ramco mirrors, and all new modern clearance lights. 5 I'm changing everything else. So why not. So to get everything behind the plate. There will be just one water fill for the tank, and coach. The tank will be filled off the city water line. With sensors in the water tank for automatic fill. Or use the manual override switch behind the plate. A 12 volt solenoid valve will be used to control the water to the tank. Jim at Applied has a city hose connection with a pressure regulator in it. I'm using my original Royale electrical door for the 110 volt cord. That cord will coil itself into a box that will be inside the GMC. I've made a trial run. Worked great. I'm installing an automatic transfer switch for the 110 volt. The coax cable will also have it's own box to coil up in. The plate will be mounted on a 64 Chevelle plate mounting bracket that is spring loaded. Thus behind the plate will be the water inlet, 110 volt cover, coax cable port, and a double throw toggle switch. I'll take photo's.Bob Dunahugh78 Royale
Since I'm moving my water, water tank fill, and electrical inputs to behind the license plate. I'm cutting some pieces of body material from the burned GMC. To fill in where I removed the boxes in the rear corners of the GMC I'm building. Having someone that has this material on hand is rare. If you're in need. Contact me.Bob Dunahugh
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Re: [GMCnet] Restoration. Anyone need some body panel pieces? [message #294035 is a reply to message #294018] |
Mon, 18 January 2016 14:08 |
Bruce Hart
Messages: 1501 Registered: October 2011 Location: La Grange, Wyoming
Karma: 5
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Bob,
Have you been able to check out the electrical system on the hot water tank
on the convertible yet?
On Mon, Jan 18, 2016 at 9:24 AM, Pete Smith wrote:
> Bob, Is there a practical advantage in doing this or is it more for looks?
>
>
> Pete
>
>
> BobDunahugh wrote on Sun, 17 January 2016 16:34
>> Since I'm moving my water, water tank fill, and electrical inputs to
> behind the license plate. I'm cutting some pieces of body material from the
>> burned GMC. To fill in where I removed the boxes in the rear corners
> of the GMC I'm building. Having someone that has this material on hand is
>> rare. If you're in need. Contact me.Bob Dunahugh
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> --
> Cary, NC
>
> No Coach yet but decided it will be wet bath with Sully or 4 bag system.
> perhaps a 1978 Kingsley....
>
>
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--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
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Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
1977 28' Kingsley
La Grange, Wyoming
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Re: [GMCnet] Restoration. How to move the utilities behind the license plate [message #294039 is a reply to message #294036] |
Mon, 18 January 2016 15:50 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726 Registered: March 2004 Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Guy,
My installation is a little more complex than just the macerator switch:
I've got two macerators so each has a switch. Also, since I like to lower
the rear of the coach during dumping, I've added 12VDC dump valves ahead
(on the bag side) of the Hold valves for the air bags; those are controlled
by momentary toggle switches below the macerator switches. After dumping,
I need to jack the rear end back up, so there's a momentary push button
which activates the 120vac compressor to bring the ride height from full
down to full up in 30 seconds (IF...I remembered to turn on the inverter as
I came out of the coach).
If Bob adds all that to his already planned fittings, he'll probably need
to double the tag size! :-)
Ken H.
On Mon, Jan 18, 2016 at 4:05 PM, Guy Lopes wrote:
> Bob,
>
> I remember that Ken Henderson also has his Macerator switch behind his
> license plate. Have you considered that too, or do you not have enough
> space
> left?
>
> Guy Lopes
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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[GMCnet] 120 v Ac air pump [message #294057 is a reply to message #294039] |
Mon, 18 January 2016 22:19 |
Brian Waddell
Messages: 409 Registered: March 2010
Karma: -4
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Are you running a 120 v AC pump from a 12 volt DC wire through a inverter for air bag air? If so, I assume this oi operating as necessary going down the road.. What are the specs on the air pump...Brian 77 ele 455 winterpeg
> From: hend4800@bellsouth.net
> Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2016 16:50:40 -0500
> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Restoration. How to move the utilities behind the license plate
>
> Guy,
>
> My installation is a little more complex than just the macerator switch:
> I've got two macerators so each has a switch. Also, since I like to lower
> the rear of the coach during dumping, I've added 12VDC dump valves ahead
> (on the bag side) of the Hold valves for the air bags; those are controlled
> by momentary toggle switches below the macerator switches. After dumping,
> I need to jack the rear end back up, so there's a momentary push button
> which activates the 120vac compressor to bring the ride height from full
> down to full up in 30 seconds (IF...I remembered to turn on the inverter as
> I came out of the coach).
>
> If Bob adds all that to his already planned fittings, he'll probably need
> to double the tag size! :-)
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 18, 2016 at 4:05 PM, Guy Lopes wrote:
>
>> Bob,
>>
>> I remember that Ken Henderson also has his Macerator switch behind his
>> license plate. Have you considered that too, or do you not have enough
>> space
>> left?
>>
>> Guy Lopes
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
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Re: [GMCnet] 120 v Ac air pump [message #294059 is a reply to message #294057] |
Mon, 18 January 2016 23:05 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726 Registered: March 2004 Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Brian,
My 120vac pump is an OLD 1-1/2hp Craftsman "football" -- one of those
things that comes in a rounded off rectangular housing of plastic. I had
it for occasional use for many years. It didn't even have a tank, just a
"regulator" in the output line. For some reason, one day I opened the case
and found to my surprise that there was a nice little PISTON pump in it
rather than the diaphragm I'd expected.
I remounted that pump in a smaller Lexan housing which fits nicely between
the back of the refrigerator and the outer wall of the GMC. It's
controlled by a 120psi pressure switch and a 12VDC relay which is in turn
controlled from the license plate hidden switch. It also has an override
switch on its housing and a QD for tire inflation, etc. Power comes from
the 1500W "house inverter". I don't know the output volume, but it's
considerable -- empty 4-bags to compressor shutdown in about 30 seconds.
This compressor is not used at all during travel; a high quality 12VDC
compressor is still installed for that purpose, along with all the normal
control components. The 120vac unit COULD handle the job very nicely, but
I saw no reason to always run the inverter to support it. I haven't even
included a simple interconnect to allow emergency backup -- probably a 1/2
hour job. But not even on my to-do list.
I've never been inside any other "football" compressor, so I don't know
whether they're as amenable to compaction as mine was.
Ken H.
On Mon, Jan 18, 2016 at 11:19 PM, Brian Waddell
wrote:
> Are you running a 120 v AC pump from a 12 volt DC wire through a inverter
> for air bag air? If so, I assume this oi operating as necessary going down
> the road.. What are the specs on the air pump...Brian 77 ele 455 winterpeg
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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Re: [GMCnet] Restoration. Anyone need some body panel pieces? [message #294070 is a reply to message #293984] |
Tue, 19 January 2016 08:23 |
bpimm
Messages: 211 Registered: June 2013 Location: Washougal Washington
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Hi Bob, how is the right front corner of the convertible? from the windshield down, need from about the center of the passenger side wheel well across the nose to at least the center line between the hoods.
Brian & RaeDean
1973 26' #383
Washougal WA
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Re: [GMCnet] 120 v Ac air pump [message #294084 is a reply to message #294059] |
Tue, 19 January 2016 17:00 |
Brian Waddell
Messages: 409 Registered: March 2010
Karma: -4
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Senior Member |
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OK... thanks for the explanation......you still have a revamped original type system with a 12vdc air pump...I am in terested in the speed at which the 120 ac sydtem works..So...Could a person use a 120 ac compressor connected to a converter. In my explanation the convertor conversst 12 volt to 120 volts.. So could this be done all the time to speed up the raising and lowering process and for that matter....make the raising and lowering more instantaneous......thanks brian 77 ele 455 winterpeg
> From: hend4800@bellsouth.net
> Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2016 00:05:05 -0500
> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] 120 v Ac air pump
>
> Brian,
>
> My 120vac pump is an OLD 1-1/2hp Craftsman "football" -- one of those
> things that comes in a rounded off rectangular housing of plastic. I had
> it for occasional use for many years. It didn't even have a tank, just a
> "regulator" in the output line. For some reason, one day I opened the case
> and found to my surprise that there was a nice little PISTON pump in it
> rather than the diaphragm I'd expected.
>
> I remounted that pump in a smaller Lexan housing which fits nicely between
> the back of the refrigerator and the outer wall of the GMC. It's
> controlled by a 120psi pressure switch and a 12VDC relay which is in turn
> controlled from the license plate hidden switch. It also has an override
> switch on its housing and a QD for tire inflation, etc. Power comes from
> the 1500W "house inverter". I don't know the output volume, but it's
> considerable -- empty 4-bags to compressor shutdown in about 30 seconds.
>
> This compressor is not used at all during travel; a high quality 12VDC
> compressor is still installed for that purpose, along with all the normal
> control components. The 120vac unit COULD handle the job very nicely, but
> I saw no reason to always run the inverter to support it. I haven't even
> included a simple interconnect to allow emergency backup -- probably a 1/2
> hour job. But not even on my to-do list.
>
> I've never been inside any other "football" compressor, so I don't know
> whether they're as amenable to compaction as mine was.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 18, 2016 at 11:19 PM, Brian Waddell
> wrote:
>
>> Are you running a 120 v AC pump from a 12 volt DC wire through a inverter
>> for air bag air? If so, I assume this oi operating as necessary going down
>> the road.. What are the specs on the air pump...Brian 77 ele 455 winterpeg
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
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Re: [GMCnet] 120 v Ac air pump [message #294085 is a reply to message #294084] |
Tue, 19 January 2016 17:48 |
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Loffen
Messages: 1087 Registered: August 2013 Location: Norway
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Bob is the furnace vent and left rear lamp bezel for sale ?
1973 23' # 1848 Sky Blue Glacier called Baby Blue and a 1973 26'-3 # 1460 Parrot green Seqouia Known as the Big Green,
And sold my 1973 26'-2 # 581 White Canyon lands under the name Dobbelt trøbbel
in Norway
[Updated on: Tue, 19 January 2016 17:49] Report message to a moderator
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Re: [GMCnet] 120 v Ac air pump [message #294086 is a reply to message #294084] |
Tue, 19 January 2016 18:47 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726 Registered: March 2004 Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Brian,
Just so we talk the same language, the common useage is Inverter for 12VDC
to 120vac, Converter for 120vac to 12VDC. :-)
There's no reason whatsoever that a 120vac compressor w/Inverter
combination cannot be used to replace the 12VDC compressor. Except cost
and wiring changes.
Now whether it's worthwhile, performance-wise, is another question. While
part of the speed of operation I attain with my setup is partially due to
the capacity of the compressor, it's not the only reason. I feed the
output of the compressor through check valves directly into the inlets of
the airbags, one to each side.
That plumbing arrangement bypasses a lot of restrictions in the standard
Electrolevel system: Three valves, Raise, Lower, and Hold, each with
orifices of, IIRC, 0.032" constrain the flow of air. Those are then
followed by the height control valve, whose orifice size I don't know,
which imposes a several second (in the manual) delay before every height
change correction. Getting air through all those obstructions can't
possibly happen as quickly as through my direct plumbing.
To overcome the delays mentioned above, you'd have to use a compressor with
much higher output pressure than is likely available from one driven by a
reasonably sized inverter = $$$. And of course, we're discussing only
Raising -- the compressor has nothing to do with Lowering.
It would probably be a lot easier and more economical to change to more
modern, larger orifice, control valves, which are available through the
various hot rod/custom shops which deal in "hopping cars". :-)
Ken H.
On Tue, Jan 19, 2016 at 6:00 PM, Brian Waddell
wrote:
> OK... thanks for the explanation......you still have a revamped original
> type system with a 12vdc air pump...I am in terested in the speed at which
> the 120 ac sydtem works..So...Could a person use a 120 ac compressor
> connected to a converter. In my explanation the convertor conversst 12 volt
> to 120 volts.. So could this be done all the time to speed up the raising
> and lowering process and for that matter....make the raising and lowering
> more instantaneous......thanks brian 77 ele 455 winterpeg
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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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Re: [GMCnet] 120 v Ac air pump [message #294185 is a reply to message #294086] |
Fri, 22 January 2016 19:04 |
Brian Waddell
Messages: 409 Registered: March 2010
Karma: -4
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Senior Member |
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OK...good advice Ken...good explanation...thanks....brian 77 ele 455 winterpeg
> From: hend4800@bellsouth.net
> Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2016 19:47:05 -0500
> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] 120 v Ac air pump
>
> Brian,
>
> Just so we talk the same language, the common useage is Inverter for 12VDC
> to 120vac, Converter for 120vac to 12VDC. :-)
>
> There's no reason whatsoever that a 120vac compressor w/Inverter
> combination cannot be used to replace the 12VDC compressor. Except cost
> and wiring changes.
>
> Now whether it's worthwhile, performance-wise, is another question. While
> part of the speed of operation I attain with my setup is partially due to
> the capacity of the compressor, it's not the only reason. I feed the
> output of the compressor through check valves directly into the inlets of
> the airbags, one to each side.
>
> That plumbing arrangement bypasses a lot of restrictions in the standard
> Electrolevel system: Three valves, Raise, Lower, and Hold, each with
> orifices of, IIRC, 0.032" constrain the flow of air. Those are then
> followed by the height control valve, whose orifice size I don't know,
> which imposes a several second (in the manual) delay before every height
> change correction. Getting air through all those obstructions can't
> possibly happen as quickly as through my direct plumbing.
>
> To overcome the delays mentioned above, you'd have to use a compressor with
> much higher output pressure than is likely available from one driven by a
> reasonably sized inverter = $$$. And of course, we're discussing only
> Raising -- the compressor has nothing to do with Lowering.
>
> It would probably be a lot easier and more economical to change to more
> modern, larger orifice, control valves, which are available through the
> various hot rod/custom shops which deal in "hopping cars". :-)
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 19, 2016 at 6:00 PM, Brian Waddell
> wrote:
>
>> OK... thanks for the explanation......you still have a revamped original
>> type system with a 12vdc air pump...I am in terested in the speed at which
>> the 120 ac sydtem works..So...Could a person use a 120 ac compressor
>> connected to a converter. In my explanation the convertor conversst 12 volt
>> to 120 volts.. So could this be done all the time to speed up the raising
>> and lowering process and for that matter....make the raising and lowering
>> more instantaneous......thanks brian 77 ele 455 winterpeg
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
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