| Propane tank fix and restore [message #293400] |
Mon, 04 January 2016 08:46  |
Tilerpep
Messages: 404
Registered: June 2013
Location: Raleigh, NC
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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Next system to tackle: propane.
My goal is clean, working, and added function.
Pretty example
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/propane/p56160-propane-tank.html
(What is the pink layer under the mounts in this picture?)
Added function example
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/3187/187_p1956.jpg
I want to remove tank, clean and repaint. Then replace shut off valve, regulator, two foot connector hose, copper pipe to fridge (it has a kink ten inches from fridge that a few mechanics have warned could be a problem, does not leak currently).
Shut off valve has mildly leaked between on and off positions for a while, but it has gotten much worse - I am assuming I should replace the whole valve unless someone tells me how it can be rebuilt/repacked.
I want to add the "T" to run outside stove or grill, or use removable tank if big one is empty.
The wood floor in back left, looking at compartment, is rotten. Does it extend into the floor inside the coach on a 1975 Glenbrook with an aluminum box around the tank? Or can I just replace what is right there like a panel? Is exterior grade 3/4 ok, or do I need marine plywood?
Another related problem is my furnace would run when electric was plugged in and on converter, but not on a fully charged battery. Could this be a gas regulator issue (hopefully solved with a new one) where pressure is on the line of functionality, or does this lend itself to internal furnace like sail switch on the line of works with 13.5 and not with 12.7?
TIA
1975 Glenbrook, 1978 Royale rear bath
Raleigh, NC
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| Re: Propane tank fix and restore [message #293401 is a reply to message #293400] |
Mon, 04 January 2016 09:41  |
tphipps
Messages: 3005
Registered: August 2004
Location: Spanish Fort, AL
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Pink stuff looks like dense foam added as padding for either vibration (tank doesn't vibrate) or maybe temperature barrier. I cannot imagine any harm from it.
All valves on these tanks are subject to some leakage in between the totally off and the totally on positions. There is no midway point. The valve is either fully open or fully closed. Otherwise, it will leak.
Replacing the copper sounds like a great idea, just based on the kink.
Tom, MS II
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
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| Re: [GMCnet] Propane tank fix and restore [message #293404 is a reply to message #293400] |
Mon, 04 January 2016 09:48 |
Dolph Santorine
Messages: 1236
Registered: April 2011
Location: Wheeling, WV
Karma: -41
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Senior Member |
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Tyler:
I did mine this past summer.
Pictures are here:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/member-galleries/p59798-img-1494.html
I replaced the shut off valve. I bought one from the local welding supply that is for a 100 lb cylinder. I took off the “Fill indication” tube, and when I removed the old valve, it had the hole in the bottom for the very same (but not tapped). It was $22 or so. Some guys have replaced the gaskets in the valve.
You’ll need a lot of twist to get the valve off the tank. I used a huge pipe wrench for the removal, and it took every inch of a three foot long wrench, and a lot of my 300 lbs.
> The wood floor in back left, looking at compartment, is rotten. Does it extend into the floor inside the coach on a 1975 Glenbrook with an aluminum
> box around the tank? Or can I just replace what is right there like a panel? Is exterior grade 3/4 ok, or do I need marine plywood?
I have replaced floor sections, and used pressure treated plywood. Keep in mind that it’s a different thickness than regular plywood, and is more like the actual 3/4” stuff from back in the day. I would only section it back by the tank, unless it’s rotten into the living area. Just what I would do.
> Another related problem is my furnace would run when electric was plugged in and on converter, but not on a fully charged battery. Could this be a gas
> regulator issue (hopefully solved with a new one) where pressure is on the line of functionality, or does this lend itself to internal furnace like
> sail switch on the line of works with 13.5 and not with 12.7?
I consider the furnace a safety item. I would not consider owning a home with a 40 year old furnace, especially if it was between where I sleep and the door.
Just say’in.
HTH.
Dolph
DE N8JPC
Wheeling, West Virginia
1977 26’ ex-PalmBeach
1-Ton, Sullybilt Bags, Reaction Arms, 3.70 LSD, Manny Transmission, EV-6010
“The Aluminum and Fiberglass Mistress"
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| Re: Propane tank fix and restore [message #293424 is a reply to message #293400] |
Mon, 04 January 2016 16:47 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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The two "pink things" under the feet of the tank are probably just spacers to allow more room for storage below the tank. I had a pair of wood ones that I installed. I ended up removing them because with them installed I did not have room on top of the tank for my AR-AFFF fire extinguisher.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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