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| Re: [GMCnet] water supply plumbing questions.. [message #290556 is a reply to message #290542] |
Wed, 18 November 2015 17:38   |
Kingsley Coach
Messages: 2691
Registered: March 2009
Location: Nova Scotia Canada
Karma: -34
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Senior Member |
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I'm sure you will get lots of opinions.
Could you give us a name and tell us where you live and what coach you have?
It would be appreciated.
Mike in NS
On Wed, Nov 18, 2015 at 3:18 PM, notavailable wrote:
> hello everyone,
>
>
> is there any reasons that one should not use stranded PVC hose for all
> water supply lines? including hot water ones?
>
> this type of hose:
> http://www.downwindmarine.com/Hose-Trident-Reinforced-161-Clear-PVC-Tubing-p-90891024.html
>
>
>
> and about using the tankless water heaters as accessory to the OEM 6gal.,
> Im considering to use this one:
>
> http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/eccotemp-portable-tankless-water-heater/37786
>
> with this bypass kit:
> http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/quick-turn-by-pass-kit/15717
>
> so that I can re-direct water flow to the tankless one only when needed,
> it seems to me, if I do it this way then I should utilize another one-way
> valve on the output side of the tankless water heater, would that be
> proper/correct?
>
>
> my last question is about the bathroom faucet, I like the OEM set up that
> has the pull knob to divert flow to the shower head but would rather replace
> my original with something new. is there a preferred replacement available
> that retains the diverter valve? maybe an updated style with same
> function?
>
> another question about this OEM setup, can one combine a shower head with
> its own incorporated on/off valve into the OEM system without issues?
>
> thanks
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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>
--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS
Life is too short to hold a grudge; slash some tires and call it even !
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| Re: [GMCnet] water supply plumbing questions.. [message #290575 is a reply to message #290556] |
Thu, 19 November 2015 09:08 |
bpimm
Messages: 211
Registered: June 2013
Location: Washougal Washington
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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I have a tankless water heater mounted behind the refer and installed an adjustable temperature control valve under the sink, then I have a 1/4 turn angle stop coming through the shower wall to the shower. Just turn the angle stop on and off as needed for your shower.
Brian & RaeDean
1973 26' #383
Washougal WA
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| Re: [GMCnet] water supply plumbing questions.. [message #290626 is a reply to message #290589] |
Fri, 20 November 2015 08:33 |
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Anonymous
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jimk wrote on Thu, 19 November 2015 15:31As long as it is not giving off toxic gas when the temperature get up to
210 degrees, it would be safe.
the hose linked is rated @ 150 degrees max, I havnt been able to obtain the specs for the Atwood water heater that pertain to max temps and hadnt yet considered the engine water temps. thanks for reminding me.
I'll try to locate a non toxic flexible hose designed for higher temps now. I need something at least as flexable as the stranded PVC hose so I can re-route the plumbing into tighter spaces. Ive already ran all electrical wires into PVC conduit formed to fit into the roof frame bows and side beams in order to have a very smooth headliner from front to rear without the drop down portion outside the bathroom. theoretically, I should be able to use a one piece headliner from front to rear but finding a solid panel this size might be more difficult.
that reminds me, another idea for this system: using the engine water heat exchanger in the Atwood water heater and another bypass valve to switch between engine heat and a solar unit on the roof.
just an idea for now but seems doable, has anyone here tried solar water heating using the Atwood heat exchanger?
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| Re: [GMCnet] water supply plumbing questions.. [message #290648 is a reply to message #290626] |
Fri, 20 November 2015 14:50 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Notavailable.
The engine heating feature of an Atwood EH-6 water heater is a single loop of 1/2" OD copper tubing inside the tank.
I'm guessing but Id say it is around a 18 inches long. The engine water temp runs around 190°F and is pumped through the loop. IIRC
the relief valve in the Atwood EH-6 is set at 160°F. I've found that if you hook up shore water and turn it on shortly after you
shut down the engine, it will pressurize the EH-6 tank and water will flow out of the relief valve until the water temperature in
the tank drops below the relief valve setting.
Take the above information into consideration when considering tying solar hot water into the Atwood engine heating loop.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
-----Original Message-----
From: notavailable
the hose linked is rated @ 150 degrees max, I havnt been able to obtain the specs for the Atwood water heater that pertain to max
temps and hadnt yet considered the engine water temps. thanks for reminding me.
I'll try to locate a non toxic flexible hose designed for higher temps now. I need something at least as flexable as the stranded
PVC hose so I can re-route the plumbing into tighter spaces. Ive already ran all electrical wires into PVC conduit formed to fit
into the roof frame bows and side beams in order to have a very smooth headliner from front to rear without the drop down portion
outside the bathroom. theoretically, I should be able to use a one piece headliner from front to rear but finding a solid panel this
size might be more difficult.
that reminds me, another idea for this system: using the engine water heat exchanger in the Atwood water heater and another bypass
valve to switch between engine heat and a solar unit on the roof.
just an idea for now but seems doable, has anyone here tried solar water heating using the Atwood heat exchanger?
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GMCnet mailing list
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re:water supply plumbing questions.. [message #290665 is a reply to message #290628] |
Sat, 21 November 2015 08:01 |
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Anonymous
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SONICJK wrote on Fri, 20 November 2015 08:44Why not just use PEX?
Get it at any box store, its flexible, and we use it in homes for hot water all the time.
I would prefer PEX but it wouldnt flex enough and even when using a heat gun to help it, it kinks easily however I've decided on a new route that will allow me to use PEX instead of PVC hose so I will be going with PEX now.
this coach had copper in it but it had been split in several places from freezing water inside (in difficult spots to repair too) and was also very thin from inner corrosion. I like the anti-bacterial advantages of copper but not the maintenance/repair of it.
so, is there more than one replacement for the bathroom faucet? different styles or a "proven" replacement members prefer over others?
this original one cleaned/polished up nicely and Ive re o-ringed it but still like to know what other options are available. this OEM one is certainly a solid (and heavy) piece though.
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