Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Interior teardown (pulling apart all the interior swollen pieces)
| Interior teardown [message #289833] |
Sun, 01 November 2015 23:16  |
Jack Ramsey
Messages: 82
Registered: December 2012
Location: Tulare, CA
Karma: 1
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Full day of teardown of the interior, which started as just the headliner, but I see how over the years, I have watched everyone on the boards, start simple, and end up doing a complete interior. Once I got into the process, looks like every piece of the crappy press board has swollen and the best part is most can be used as a template for cutting new pieces. Sigh... I knew better, having rebuilt many older autos through the years, but seems I wasn't smart enough to listen to my own posts.. grin..
Have a couple of questions:
Not sure what happened here. I guess one of the PO decided to plumb thing differently. Slightly confused by the bolt.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/ramsey-rebuild/p59425-teardown-11-1-2015.html
This is Teed into the output from the pump..
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/ramsey-rebuild/p59427-teardown-11-1-2015.html
Kind of a pex maze
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/ramsey-rebuild/p59431-teardown-11-1-2015.html
I think a newer tank. Never seen any other but this one is not bolted or tied down
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/ramsey-rebuild/p59426-teardown-11-1-2015.html
Trying to flatten the interior pieces for template sketching
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/ramsey-rebuild/p59436-teardown-11-1-2015.html
Now the bigger question. I have a PILE of hardware all in little baggies and pretty sure most of it will go to the recycle bin and do all new stuff. The headliner and the plastic wiring cover pieces came apart in my hands as I attempted to pull them off. Both front and rear caps will need complete restoration. The Calif San Joaquin Valley has not much rain, but tons of ozone. Hard on plastic. I have seen posts on using basic big box store hardware for the headliner and side moldings, which makes sense.
I think after rewiring for 2 AC's, replacing the original buzz box, figuring out whether to use a power center, with charger, inverter, and either doing 2 manual or 2 auto transfer stitches. I liked Justin Brady's diagrams on photobucket (I think Bob posted it) of a 50amp AND 15 amp transfer switches. You would think someone would make something like that. I have installed LARGE off grid systems by Outback on the solar side of my business, but not practical in this smaller scale. I have worked on some older Xantrex 24V systems that had the same function. Anyone found a simple way to replace the small breaker box, with an additional 120v 20 amp circuit for second air and run a couple of plugs off an inverter? I think a lot of the stuff can run off 12V (Directv, lighting, range fan, TV, stereo) and a small sine wave inverter (2K) to run the microwave. Unless there is a 12 V microwave out there.
Then looks like I will need to pull everything off the roof, drip rails, all lighting, ladder and probably the rear cap to keep the water out. No sense in doing the insulation and windows without the roof also.. sigh.. should have known better.. best to get one rebuilt, but now I will know all parts of this pig (grin), which will pay off on the road. At least I budgeted $30K (I CAN read), but always hoping for less.
Too bad I still have to work for a living, for this actually is more fun than my job.. Writing it down sets my priories and distills the plan.
Jack
Jack Ramsey
Tulare, CA
TZE165V101526
1975 Palm Beach
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| Re: Interior teardown [message #289835 is a reply to message #289833] |
Mon, 02 November 2015 06:06  |
kerry pinkerton
Messages: 2565
Registered: July 2012
Location: Harvest, Al
Karma: 15
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My water tank is identical. The brass shutoff is the drain for the pump/tank. Mine actually has two valves that have to be opened in order to drain the tank. Never got around to redoing it since it works as is. My tank isn't tied down either but can't go anywhere because it's restrained by the framing around it and the bed above it. In addition, the weight of the water is going to keep it still.
Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama
Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
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| Re: Interior teardown [message #289840 is a reply to message #289833] |
Mon, 02 November 2015 07:33 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Here's the approach I took to the power distribution. The AC box is from Lowe's, someone gave me the DC fuse block. I've a solar charger for the house battery, so it's normally switched OFF unless I'm running. I've a manual genset transfer switch. No inverter (I don't dry camp) but I have a 2200KVA UPS which I threaten to take the inverter our of and use if I ever need one.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6845-new-coach-power-systems.html
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
[Updated on: Wed, 04 November 2015 19:19] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Interior teardown [message #289844 is a reply to message #289833] |
Mon, 02 November 2015 10:24 |
Adrien G.
Messages: 474
Registered: May 2008
Location: Burns Flat, OK 73624
Karma: 1
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Jack,
I'm at the end of doing what you're about to do. I can not leave something undone, the cabinets (modules) are only the surface items to do, more to do behind them.
This is what I used for power center. http://www.amazon.com/WFCO-WF8955PECB-Center-Converter-Charger/dp/B004BC59S6/ref=sr_1_5/179-6210004-7293957?ie=UTF8&qid=1446479155&sr=8-5& keywords=wfco
it's 120v ac, 12v dc, and converter/charger in one package. I mounted it in the top storage compartment above the closet drawers.
Unless the rear panel has ben removed, all large modules (cabinets) need to be pieced in the door for final assembly inside.
Think 5 to 10 steps ahead of what present step you're working on.
It's a good feeling when it's done.
Adrien & Jenny Genesoto
75 Glenbrook (26-3) Mods LS3.70 FD / Reaction Sys / 80mm Front&Intermidiate / Hydroboost / 16" Tires / Frame Rebuild / Interior Rebuild
Yuba City,Ca. Text 530-nine-3-three-3-nine-nine-6
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| Re: Interior teardown [message #289947 is a reply to message #289833] |
Wed, 04 November 2015 17:52 |
Jack Ramsey
Messages: 82
Registered: December 2012
Location: Tulare, CA
Karma: 1
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Thanks Everyone:
Here are my electrical basic thoughts:
50 amp input from utility:
2 each Trojan 6V 105Plus or 145plus batteries in series
Shore power to a PD52 transfer sw
Onan to PD52 same transfer sw
PD52 to PD 4560 OR PD55B003 (5 x 5 individual bus 120v)
AC single pole breakers:
spare
Plug 2 15 amp
Plug 1 15 amp
AC1 20 amp
Main 50amp
Main 50amp
AC2 20 amp `
Inverter 30amp to run 2 AC circuits off of battery (separate sub panel)(MS 2012?)
PD 6000 DC circuit board for DC runs to back bedroom, front dining, aux plugs on passenger dash, other various places
Inverter MS Magnum Dimensions 2000 inverter-charger or should I go to a 2800?
Progressive Dynamics supposedly makes the best charger, but no inverter. Others (AIM, Xantrex and Samlex, provide inverter-chargers, which means smaller footprints and less connections.
I have heard nothing good about Xantrex. (plus some personal bad experiences on the solar side)
OR ? AIMS (2000-3000 Watt Pure Sine Power Inverter 12V)
There HAS to be an easier way to clean up this mess. OR do discrete wiring fuses, breakers using standard DIN rails in a plastic box. It will sort out.
Just amazing how much power can a small aluminum and fiberglass tube can use? (I'm going to remove the electric water heater and us an on-demand). Got to make this pig a little more efficient somehow
Jack
Jack Ramsey
Tulare, CA
TZE165V101526
1975 Palm Beach
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| Re: Interior teardown [message #289970 is a reply to message #289947] |
Thu, 05 November 2015 06:36 |
Jack Ramsey
Messages: 82
Registered: December 2012
Location: Tulare, CA
Karma: 1
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Figured out I need 4 Trojans, a 3k inverter-charger, plus AIM, Xantrex and Magnum all make charger-inverters with built in transfer switches. Simplifying the process and connections.
Jack Ramsey
Tulare, CA
TZE165V101526
1975 Palm Beach
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| Re: Interior teardown [message #289981 is a reply to message #289833] |
Thu, 05 November 2015 09:14 |
Gatsbys' Cruiser
Messages: 91
Registered: August 2014
Location: Illinois
Karma: 0
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I have done, and in the process of the interior..... Most of the interior was redone by the PO. A lot I would have done differently but, you get what you pay for, right?
Roof... I sealed the roof differently then most. My clearance lights were attached to the roof well but were the old originals. I converted them to LED then used caulk to seal the bases then seal the lens to the base. I don't think I will have to open them ever but then who knows.
The railings are also well seated and attached. I read some stories where removing them was a bad nightmare so to avoid that, I sealed them with caulk at all the seams, around the bases and uprights. the roof was painted white to reflect heat. I can say that there have been NO LEAKS from the roof.
I am still planning the electrical. The DC is a marine fuse panel with fuses and fuse type CB/s. It works. I only have one AC and since I have not dry camped, seems to be good enough. I am contemplating a Sine Wave inverter with a solar panel. Do your numbers well here. A battery does not supply a lot of power for very long. What was I told, a 12vdc battery rated at 100 amp hours will supply 5 amp for 20 hours. Remember too, if you need 1 amp of 120v AC, your inverter needs to be supplied 10 of 12vdc. I find solar extremely interesting and have been playing with it for awhile. Do your homework and you will be ok.
good luck
s
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| Re: Interior teardown [message #290000 is a reply to message #289981] |
Thu, 05 November 2015 18:11 |
Jack Ramsey
Messages: 82
Registered: December 2012
Location: Tulare, CA
Karma: 1
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Adding a WFCO 8950 AC-DC load center. Batteries, Inverter-charger, Load center. If I didn't have the need for the second AC (married a LONG time), I could drop to 30 amp, but know better.
Probably use the Magnum type fuses on the + side of the batteries. I hate to put ANY batteries in parallel, so looking for what fits well in the area.
24V is intriguing for lower current (plus efficiency), AND my surface pros run in 19VDC, but adding too much complexity to a simple 12V system. KISS. Plus the Directv runs on 12V, SEIKI 24in tv runs on 12V, USB chargers all 12V. No sense in re-inventing the wheel for 2 devices.
Thanks for the info on your roof sealing. Seems with proper cleaning, some scraping and sanding then proper painting or "sealing" with newer type material (hopefully something slip resistant) may be better to not pull up the rail. Darn near everything else needs to be done. ALL plastic is crumbling, need to cut holes and mount the newer low profile AC's, and 3 vents (Maxxair or Fantastic) for the 2 living areas and the bath plus all the running lights with LED's.
Jack
Jack Ramsey
Tulare, CA
TZE165V101526
1975 Palm Beach
[Updated on: Thu, 05 November 2015 18:17] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Interior teardown [message #290004 is a reply to message #290000] |
Thu, 05 November 2015 20:06 |
Adrien G.
Messages: 474
Registered: May 2008
Location: Burns Flat, OK 73624
Karma: 1
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Jack,
When your coach is fully insulated and sealed from air leaks, you may find that one 15,000 BTU AC unit may do just fine.
The 13,500 BTU AC was comfortable on 100+ F days this summer. when it goes I'll move up to the larger unit, so to have that
little bit extra in case of global warning.
Of coarse with 2 you always have one in the case of a failure.
Your choice.
Adrien & Jenny Genesoto
75 Glenbrook (26-3) Mods LS3.70 FD / Reaction Sys / 80mm Front&Intermidiate / Hydroboost / 16" Tires / Frame Rebuild / Interior Rebuild
Yuba City,Ca. Text 530-nine-3-three-3-nine-nine-6
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| Re: Interior teardown [message #290011 is a reply to message #289833] |
Thu, 05 November 2015 21:32 |
Jack Ramsey
Messages: 82
Registered: December 2012
Location: Tulare, CA
Karma: 1
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Your heat is the same as ours down in Tulare. My plan was the 2 smaller units for reliability and having a backup. I like units not pushed to the max and while the SJV heat and other desert places is not a problem for myself and the little schnauzer I drive around with all summer, with the windows down, (construction work on roofs makes for heat acceptance), but the boss would certainly drop to a rental and hotel rooms the first time there was zero AC.
I will foam all spaces I can, and do thermal barrier. I will do whatever I can to make the envelope thermal and airtight. I think the airtight may be the harder of the 2.
https://www.sprayfoamkit.com/spray-foam-insulation/spray-foam-kits-value2.html
Hopefully find someone in the area that does the foam, but the kits mean I can piecemeal it as time allots.
I think electrical and roof first, drip rail, windows, sealing front and side body cavities-spaces, floor, (including fuel tank access), the list grows... plus have to figure out the vents for the propane stove, refrigerator, and on demand hot water.
Thanks again,
Jack
Jack Ramsey
Tulare, CA
TZE165V101526
1975 Palm Beach
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