| Engine removed, top, without dropping axleI [message #286141] |
Sun, 30 August 2015 06:13  |
Francois
Messages: 161
Registered: October 2012
Location: Southern California
Karma: 0
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I have successfully removed my old engine out the top, and without dropping the axle. Thanks to C Boyd for describing the method.
I did it alone with a variation on the suggested method. After removing the nuts from the front engine mount, I hoisted it just a little until the engine mount studs just cleared the frame. I then placed a jack under the final drive, just to hold it in place. I then removed all the bolts connecting the transmission/drive line to the engine. A little bit of prying and lifting is all it took from there.
My 2 2x8 rail easily transported the engine back to the door. The HF trolley I had to modify (made for a steel I beam, not a wood girder) worked smoothly.At the door I got the shop crane in there, grabbed the engine and rolled it out the door. No surprises. I hope going in with the new will be as unevéntful.
Thanks again, especially to C Boyd. If I had to remove that goddam axle nut, I would still be trying to figure it out.
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| Re: Engine removed, top, without dropping axleI [message #286144 is a reply to message #286141] |
Sun, 30 August 2015 06:59  |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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I am glad you got the info in time to use it. Usually I'm to late or something. The beam I have (thanks Ken H & Rick M) takes 3 strong backs to get it in place. Did you pull the side drain plugs? Since you had the heads and water pump off I was curious as how much coolant came out..
Just a side note... Red Skelton was my favorite, not Red Foxx.
Francois wrote on Sun, 30 August 2015 07:13I have successfully removed my old engine out the top, and without dropping the axle. Thanks to C Boyd for describing the method.
I did it alone with a variation on the suggested method. After removing the nuts from the front engine mount, I hoisted it just a little until the engine mount studs just cleared the frame. I then placed a jack under the final drive, just to hold it in place. I then removed all the bolts connecting the transmission/drive line to the engine. A little bit of prying and lifting is all it took from there.
My 2 2x8 rail easily transported the engine back to the door. The HF trolley I had to modify (made for a steel I beam, not a wood girder) worked smoothly.At the door I got the shop crane in there, grabbed the engine and rolled it out the door. No surprises. I hope going in with the new will be as unevéntful.
Thanks again, especially to C Boyd. If I had to remove that goddam axle nut, I would still be trying to figure it out.
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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| Re: Engine removed, top, without dropping axleI [message #286146 is a reply to message #286144] |
Sun, 30 August 2015 07:31 |
Francois
Messages: 161
Registered: October 2012
Location: Southern California
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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C Boyd wrote on Sun, 30 August 2015 04:59I am glad you got the info in time to use it. Usually I'm to late or something. The beam I have (thanks Ken H & Rick M) takes 3 strong backs to get it in place. Did you pull the side drain plugs? Since you had the heads and water pump off I was curious as how much coolant came out..
Just a side note... Red Skelton was my favorite, not Red Foxx.
Francois wrote on Sun, 30 August 2015 07:13I have successfully removed my old engine out the top, and without dropping the axle. Thanks to C Boyd for describing the method.
I did it alone with a variation on the suggested method. After removing the nuts from the front engine mount, I hoisted it just a little until the engine mount studs just cleared the frame. I then placed a jack under the final drive, just to hold it in place. I then removed all the bolts connecting the transmission/drive line to the engine. A little bit of prying and lifting is all it took from there.
My 2 2x8 rail easily transported the engine back to the door. The HF trolley I had to modify (made for a steel I beam, not a wood girder) worked smoothly.At the door I got the shop crane in there, grabbed the engine and rolled it out the door. No surprises. I hope going in with the new will be as unevéntful.
Thanks again, especially to C Boyd. If I had to remove that goddam axle nut, I would still be trying to figure it out.
I nailed up the 2x8s in the coach, although screws might have been better for disassembly after the swap is done. so far I haven't needed help
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| Re: Engine removed, top, without dropping axleI [message #286330 is a reply to message #286278] |
Tue, 01 September 2015 12:05 |
Francois
Messages: 161
Registered: October 2012
Location: Southern California
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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tphipps wrote on Mon, 31 August 2015 17:16Removing the front seats also helps in removing the engine out the top.
Tom, MS II
I left mine in and the old engine didn't come near the seats until it was totally out of the access hole and swiveling a bit. Before it did any real damage to the seats, I grabbed it and rolled it backwards on the trolley.This is another area where experience and a video could help. When I attached my hoist hook to it, the chain attached to the engine was attached diagonally, so as soon as the old engine got free of the confines of the éngine compartment, it wanted to swivel 45 degrees. That's when it made brief ĉontact with the passenger seat arm.
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