Hi good fellows.
I have been taking things apart in preparation for an "out the top" engine swap. I took off the headers, intake manifold, water pump and fan, alternator,heads,fuel pump, distributor and power steering unit. Believe it or not those came off without incident. So, following the guide, I took off the right front wheel (front jacked up from the center with a 12 ton jack, 2 6 ton jack stands placed).

The axle nut won't budge. Have used 3/4 drive breaker bar with a pipe for leverage, an impact gun, various penetrating oils and propane heat.

I have an engine(a 403)all rebuilt with all the necessaries as I've read about, but if I can't get the right axle out....I can't remove the old engine.

I keep looking at it to see if it's reverse thread, but I don't think so.

Anyone have a suggestion?

I sure would be grateful

Just wondering with no heads and therefore no intake, where will you attach pick points?? Head bolt holes? I have never tryed to loosten that so don't know LH or RH.

We used a 3/4" drive on a breaker bar with a 10' length of steel fence post for "additional leverage.". Did work. Tapping on the nut, while it is under tension also helps.
Tom, MS II

Hi good fellows.

I have been taking things apart in preparation for an "out the top" engine swap. I took off the headers, intake manifold, water pump and fan, alternator,heads,fuel pump, distributor and power steering unit. Believe it or not those came off without incident. So, following the guide, I took off the right front wheel (front jacked up from the center with a 12 ton jack, 2 6 ton jack stands placed).

The axle nut won't budge. Have used 3/4 drive breaker bar with a pipe for leverage, an impact gun, various penetrating oils and propane heat.

I have an engine(a 403)all rebuilt with all the necessaries as I've read about, but if I can't get the right axle out....I can't remove the old engine.

I keep looking at it to see if it's reverse thread, but I don't think so.

Anyone have a suggestion?

I sure would be grateful

Sir, if you are taking engine out the top, the axles can stay in. Just remove the 2 bolts in the bearing bracket. When installing have helper keep the bolt holes up, it can be a bear to turn installed. I have a 1" impact and axle nuts are no problem.

Sir, if you are taking engine out the top, the axles can stay in. Just remove the 2 bolts in the bearing bracket. When installing have helper keep the bolt holes up, it can be a bear to turn installed. I have a 1" impact and axle nuts are no problem.

Yes, but not much. Remove starter then turn engine with big screwdriver against ring gear to remove the 3 torque converter bolts and push torque converter back in tranny bout an inch. Remove the long bracket bolt and nut on the diff. 2 front mount nuts. Floor jack under diff and jack up as you lift engine. When front mount studs are clear of mount, shake it or pry forward. Stop jacking diff when it separates. I would suggest removing a coolant drain plug on each side to drain block. Big mess on the ground is better than inside the coach.



Francois wrote on Sat, 22 August 2015 20:30

C Boyd wrote on Sat, 22 August 2015 15:45

Sir, if you are taking engine out the top, the axles can stay in. Just remove the 2 bolts in the bearing bracket. When installing have helper keep the bolt holes up, it can be a bear to turn installed. I have a 1" impact and axle nuts are no problem.

It looks like the engine has to move forward to come out. I assume that is because the transmission torque converter has to be accessed. The axle is to the front of the engine oil pan reservoir. Is that incorrect??