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Need advice from the engine wizards [message #281789] Thu, 09 July 2015 22:44 Go to next message
kerry pinkerton is currently offline  kerry pinkerton   United States
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My 403 has a problem. I had a burned valve and low vacuum. Found the bad valve and had the head done by a local shop. Put the engine together last week and the motor has issues:

- Low vacuum at idle 10 inches of mercury.
- A random miss that you can hear in the carb and at the exhaust pipe. Very noticeable at 2500 RPM.
- Motor acts lean. Slight improvement in the miss if the choke plate is closed a bit.

Compression runs from 200 to 188 PSI. Pretty dang good.

My car buddy neighbor has been working with me on it. He's more knowledgeable than I am and I'm OK...not great but OK. I've built a few engines and done my own tuning for 50 years.

Our first effort was to find the vacuum leak. We did all the spray test and nothing. Pinched off all the vacuum lines...no change. Finally decided the leak had to be in the intake manifold or a cracked manifold. Pulled the manifold and noticed it was an EGR model. Plugged the holes in the intake runners with brass pipe plugs. No change. Thinking the intake was cracked, I found an aluminum factory manifold and got new gaskets. Some work to drill and tap a couple things but it fit fine and was much, much easier to handle. We used silicone on the gaskets and got a good squish. The crossovers are blocked with stainless plates and the Mr. Gasket gaskets are cut out for the plates and a good bit of silicone holds them in place while the intake was set. We're confident the gaskets are good. We used modeling clay to verify the manifold fit the heads and also checked for straightness on the mating edges. I had high hopes this would solve the problem...no change. I am running a brand new Patterson carb and swapped it out for my old original carb...no change. Changed the distributor cap, coil, module and even the pickup coil...no change.

At this point we were both stumped and slept on it. Today, we verified the harmonic balancer (which is relatively new) is correct. The timing is set to 11 degrees. Vacuum was ported but we discovered it ran a bit better with a little more advance so we're currently on manifold vacuum and switched back to the new Patterson carb...no change. Pulling the spark plug wires one at a time from the distributor results in a noticeable change in sound and drop in RPM Getting a good spark about an inch long as the end of the wire gets close to the distributor cap. Vacuum doesn't change much. Today we removed ALL the vacuum lines, replaces the brass fittings with new one and plugged all the holes....no change. Made sure the spark plug wires are separated. Currently vacuum is about 12-13 and the needle swings rapidly 10-15 at idle. Observed the same readings on three separate vacuum gauges.

I talked to Jim Hupy and he said that if we can hear it in the exhaust (you can feel the flutter too), it is an exhaust valve or spring. We had previously pulled the valve covers and observed the valves working. While we did not measure them, they appear to be operating normally and consistently. Jim suggests a leak down test. Tomorrow I will borrow or buy one and perform the test. I will probably also swap out the Patterson distributor for my original, plug wires and all just to eliminate things.

We've been grasping at straws and eliminating possibilities for the last 10 days and the straws left to grasp at are getting pretty sparce. ANY ideas and suggestions are welcome and encouraged. As it stands now the coach is not running well enough to go the the Dixielanders rally in a couple weeks and the boss is getting frustrated also.




Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
Re: Need advice from the engine wizards [message #281790 is a reply to message #281789] Thu, 09 July 2015 23:06 Go to previous messageGo to next message
roy1 is currently offline  roy1   United States
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When you had the intake manifold off did you look at the cam lobes? If a lobe was flat you can usually see it.Just a thought.

Roy Keen Minden,NV 76 X Glenbrook
Re: Need advice from the engine wizards [message #281791 is a reply to message #281789] Fri, 10 July 2015 00:28 Go to previous messageGo to next message
A Hamilto is currently offline  A Hamilto   United States
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Is the firing order correct? I know yours is a 403, but the MM for the 1975 455 had it wrong. http://gmcmotorhome.info/engine.html
Re: Need advice from the engine wizards [message #281793 is a reply to message #281789] Fri, 10 July 2015 01:03 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bullitthead is currently offline  Bullitthead   United States
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First thought...Firing Order!
Distributor won't change the low vacuum, but firing order sure will.
Compression seems too good to be a flat cam...
Also sounds like the valves are closing all the way.
Maybe you have a mismatched carb body and base plate like I did Laughing Yeah, that wasn't so funny on the mountain 2 lane road... Shocked But that's what I get for putting together scrap parts.


Terry Kelpien ASE Master Technician 73 Glacier 260 Smithfield, Va.
Re: Need advice from the engine wizards [message #281795 is a reply to message #281789] Fri, 10 July 2015 04:18 Go to previous messageGo to next message
kerry pinkerton is currently offline  kerry pinkerton   United States
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Firing order is correct 18436572. I've checked it 5 times a day for the last 10 days. Very Happy

We even checked fuel pressure from the electric pumps ...4 psi. Lifters and rockers all move up and down visually the same amount. We did not measure the stroke but they are pretty dang close to each other and appear to be nearly 1/2...stock cam lift is .440 on both intake and exhaust.

We even check fuel pressure. New carb gasket (one of the good ones) that shows a good crush. Again, the WD40 spray around the flanges made no change in engine RPM.

I have not changed spark plug wires but I did separate them as far as possible...no change.


Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
Re: Need advice from the engine wizards [message #281797 is a reply to message #281789] Fri, 10 July 2015 06:41 Go to previous messageGo to next message
SeanKidd is currently offline  SeanKidd   United States
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Kerry, back in March when you found the burned valve, you posted 165-170 psi compression, what changed since then? Just the head?

Sean and Stephanie
73 Ex-CanyonLands 26' #317 "Oliver"
Hubler 1-Ton, Quad-Bags, Rear Disc, Reaction Arms, P.Huber TBs, 3.70:1 LSD Honda 6500 inverter gen.
Colonial Travelers
Re: Need advice from the engine wizards [message #281799 is a reply to message #281789] Fri, 10 July 2015 07:28 Go to previous messageGo to next message
SeanKidd is currently offline  SeanKidd   United States
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One last thing, reading back to Jan? You replaced your timing gears, did you ever resolve your cam timing? Sounds like late timing, low vacuum, and resulting in burned valve....

Sean and Stephanie
73 Ex-CanyonLands 26' #317 "Oliver"
Hubler 1-Ton, Quad-Bags, Rear Disc, Reaction Arms, P.Huber TBs, 3.70:1 LSD Honda 6500 inverter gen.
Colonial Travelers
Re: Need advice from the engine wizards [message #281800 is a reply to message #281799] Fri, 10 July 2015 07:39 Go to previous messageGo to next message
kerry pinkerton is currently offline  kerry pinkerton   United States
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SeanKidd wrote on Fri, 10 July 2015 07:28
One last thing, reading back to Jan? You replaced your timing gears, did you ever resolve your cam timing? Sounds like late timing, low vacuum, and resulting in burned valve....


Yes, the timing gears are back to stock and my buddy and I both laid eyeballs on it to make sure it was right. Can't explain why the other head reads a bit higher than previously but that is what it read earlier this week. I measured and my buddy cranked the engine, held the gas pedal down, and cranked the engine. The previous readings could have been a bit lower because I didn't have the gas pedal pressed down.

I agree it sounds like late timing but everything checks out....


Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
Re: Need advice from the engine wizards [message #281805 is a reply to message #281789] Fri, 10 July 2015 08:13 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jhbridges is currently offline  jhbridges   United States
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What would happen if an exhaust valve was sticking open slightly, occasionally?

Optionally, build an altar at the garage door, get a kid goat from your neighbor, and at midnight on the first full moon........

--johnny


Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons. Braselton, Ga. I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
Re: Need advice from the engine wizards [message #281808 is a reply to message #281789] Fri, 10 July 2015 09:54 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JohnL455 is currently offline  JohnL455   United States
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Vac leak to the inside? Not likely with manifold swaps. I know you checked but be sure 5 and 7 are not swapped. Good comp so valves are closing but are they all opening properly? Observe valve opening action on all 16. At cranking speed cyls may fill to give good comp but have week output due to bad fill/ evac at speed.

John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
Re: Need advice from the engine wizards [message #281815 is a reply to message #281808] Fri, 10 July 2015 11:20 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Carl S. is currently offline  Carl S.   United States
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I'm not an "engine wizard", but the first thing I thought of was mentioned by John (above) that the #5 and #7 plug wires are crossed up. I'm sure you've already checked this, but it just seems like the obvious problem.


Carl Stouffer '75 ex Palm Beach Tucson, AZ. Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
Re: Need advice from the engine wizards [message #281816 is a reply to message #281789] Fri, 10 July 2015 11:29 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bullitthead is currently offline  Bullitthead   United States
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Something basic is off here, something is giving you wrong information...like the timing indicators or something. What happens if you ignore the marks and advance the ignition timing farther than 11 static? Does it become drivable without pinging? Does it smooth out or develop any more vacuum?

Is it possible that the timing gears are off due to erroneous marks and you have made up for the difference with the distributor/ignition timing but not the valve timing?


Terry Kelpien ASE Master Technician 73 Glacier 260 Smithfield, Va.

[Updated on: Fri, 10 July 2015 11:32]

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Re: Need advice from the engine wizards [message #281818 is a reply to message #281789] Fri, 10 July 2015 11:56 Go to previous messageGo to next message
A Hamilto is currently offline  A Hamilto   United States
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Defective head gasket?
Re: Need advice from the engine wizards [message #281820 is a reply to message #281818] Fri, 10 July 2015 12:35 Go to previous messageGo to next message
A Hamilto is currently offline  A Hamilto   United States
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A Hamilto wrote on Fri, 10 July 2015 11:56
Defective head gasket?
Or one or two lifters slacking off. Hopefully it is not a problem with the head work you had done.
Re: Need advice from the engine wizards [message #281823 is a reply to message #281789] Fri, 10 July 2015 13:07 Go to previous messageGo to next message
mercdave is currently offline  mercdave   United States
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I'm not an engine wizard but your symptoms and thorough troubleshooting lead me to think that your machinist did not set the valve stem installed height correctly on one or more of the exhaust valves or you may have one or two push rods that are not standard length from a previous repair. If the height was close the valve might be closing under the low oil pressure of cranking (no loss of compression) but when the valve warms up the valve might be unseating. head gasket thickness and head milling will also change the effective pushrod length.

Dave L
Lynnwood, Wa.

1976 GMC 26' Edgemonte Rear Twin
1973 GMC 23' Rear-Ended, Totaled

Re: Need advice from the engine wizards [message #281824 is a reply to message #281789] Fri, 10 July 2015 13:31 Go to previous messageGo to next message
roy1 is currently offline  roy1   United States
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When I installed my cloyes timing gears the timing marks were not correct. Fortunately I used a degree wheel to confirm the cam was not set properly otherwise I would have had a nightmare trying to figure out what was wrong. Set it back a tooth and all was well.

Roy Keen Minden,NV 76 X Glenbrook
Re: Need advice from the engine wizards [message #281827 is a reply to message #281789] Fri, 10 July 2015 14:00 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Larry is currently offline  Larry   United States
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When did you last take the compression test? since your reassembly? Sounds like at running speeds...600-800rpm...that one or more lifters are pumping up and holding one or more valves slightly open. So maybe when the heads were redone, the valve stem height was not set properly. At cranking speeds, with lower oil pressure during a compression test, lifters might not be pumping up quite as much as during running. The needle flutter can be indicitive of one or more valve being held open leading to low vacuum. Just a thought since all else has been suggested. Hope this is not it cuz it means pulling the heads again to verify.

I'd feel for you but can't quite reach you...Wink



Larry Smile
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
Re: Need advice from the engine wizards [message #281828 is a reply to message #281789] Fri, 10 July 2015 14:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jhbridges is currently offline  jhbridges   United States
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Geez, I can measure stem height without pulling the head off. What am I doing wrong? I can either keep air pressure on the cylinder to hold the valves closed, or stick some nylon rope in through the spark plug hole and run the piston up to hold the valves closed. Now, if the height isn't correct, I'm probably gonna have to yank the head off.

--johnny


Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons. Braselton, Ga. I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
Re: Need advice from the engine wizards [message #281830 is a reply to message #281828] Fri, 10 July 2015 14:46 Go to previous messageGo to next message
A Hamilto is currently offline  A Hamilto   United States
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Johnny Bridges wrote on Fri, 10 July 2015 14:19
Geez, I can measure stem height without pulling the head off. What am I doing wrong? I can either keep air pressure on the cylinder to hold the valves closed, or stick some nylon rope in through the spark plug hole and run the piston up to hold the valves closed. Now, if the height isn't correct, I'm probably gonna have to yank the head off.

--johnny
No need to be sarcastic. I have been perusing the MM to figure out how it says to adjust lifter preload and haven't found it yet. I did find this:

http://gmcmotorhome.info/HEADS.html

I figured Kerry had that nailed down before he turned the key the first time.
Re: [GMCnet] Need advice from the engine wizards [message #281835 is a reply to message #281830] Fri, 10 July 2015 15:43 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
James Hupy is currently offline  James Hupy   United States
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Hydraulic lash adjusters as used in the Olds and many other GM products
have a maximum preload of .080" + or - a few thousands of an inch. That is
how much lash they will absorb at the rate of oil leak down in a stock
engine. If the oil does not leak down fast enough, the lifters are said to
be "pumped up" and do not allow the valves to close on their respective
seats. If they leak down too quickly, they do not take up all the lash
present and you will hear a clattering sound from the valve train. Neither
one of these conditions are good. That is why you want to have the static
preload somewhere near center of the range of preload. In this case .035"
give or take. Head gasket thickness when crushed affects this, as does
block and head surfacing. When you grind valves and seats, the end result
is that the valve sits deeper into the seat, and the stem along with the
keeper groove also move farther away from the spring seat, and lessens the
load on the spring, also uses up some of the preload in the lifter. The
combination of all this can be holding the valve off the seat. A big no-no.
Simple, right? Stock is good.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403
On Jul 10, 2015 1:07 PM, "A." wrote:

> Johnny Bridges wrote on Fri, 10 July 2015 14:19
>> Geez, I can measure stem height without pulling the head off. What am I
> doing wrong? I can either keep air pressure on the cylinder to hold the
>> valves closed, or stick some nylon rope in through the spark plug hole
> and run the piston up to hold the valves closed. Now, if the height isn't
>> correct, I'm probably gonna have to yank the head off.
>>
>> --johnny
> No need to be sarcastic. I have been perusing the MM to figure out how it
> says to adjust lifter preload and haven't found it yet. I did find this:
>
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/HEADS.html
>
> I figured Kerry had that nailed down before he turned the key the first
> time.
> --
> '73 23' Sequoia For Sale
> '73 23' CanyonLands For Sale
> Upper Alabama
> After all is said and done, a helluva lot more is said than done.
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