Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Radiator re-core
| Radiator re-core [message #279219] |
Sat, 06 June 2015 15:59  |
Joe Weir
Messages: 769
Registered: February 2013
Location: Columbia, SC
Karma: 7
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Does anybody recore the GMC radiator anymore? Afraid to ask the shop that "repaired" it, and it seems to be the only source locally.
Had a slight mis-hap with the aluminum one.
76 Birchaven - "Wicked Mistress" - New engine, trans, alum radiator, brakes, Sully airbags, fuel lines, seats, adult beverage center... those Coachmen guys were really thinking about us second hand owners by including that beverage center...
Columbia, SC.
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| Re: Radiator re-core [message #279220 is a reply to message #279219] |
Sat, 06 June 2015 16:25  |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Joe, Sims in Atlanta did mine. Any competent shop should be able to re core a GMC radiator without a lot of trouble. Ask the local heavy truck mechanic who he uses. Large radiators are regularly re cored.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: [GMCnet] Radiator re-core [message #279244 is a reply to message #279239] |
Sat, 06 June 2015 22:03 |
Joe Weir
Messages: 769
Registered: February 2013
Location: Columbia, SC
Karma: 7
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USAussie wrote on Sat, 06 June 2015 20:38Joe,
Please advise what "Had a slight mis-hap with the aluminum one" means.
I was 5 minutes away from taking off the jack stands and taking it around the block for the first time since the engine blew.. Just had a few things to button up. Had installed a new 2 piece fan shroud., but had drilled the lower mounting holes too small, so I whipped out the battery powered drill. The drill bit caught and just like that the drill plowed into the lower 2 rows of the radiator faster than I could pull it back.
I' m surprised you did not hear the screaming and sobbing from down under....the drinking started early today.
I have the "fixed" original radiator, but it is held together with a steel strap. It would work in an emergency, but it really needs to be recored.
I'm sure the aluminum one can be repaired. I'll try the truck garages.
Thanks
76 Birchaven - "Wicked Mistress" - New engine, trans, alum radiator, brakes, Sully airbags, fuel lines, seats, adult beverage center... those Coachmen guys were really thinking about us second hand owners by including that beverage center...
Columbia, SC.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Radiator re-core [message #279249 is a reply to message #279244] |
Sun, 07 June 2015 00:18 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Joe,
Definite Big Time AW CHIT!
When you get the radiator out post some photos of the damaged area to the Photo Site.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Joe Weir
Sent: Sunday, June 07, 2015 1:04 PM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Radiator re-core
I was 5 minutes away from taking off the jack stands and taking it around the block for the first time since the engine blew. Just
had a few things to button up. Had installed a new 2 piece fan shroud, but had drilled the lower mounting holes too small, so I
whipped out the battery powered drill. The drill bit caught and just like that the drill plowed into the lower 2 rows of the
radiator faster than I could pull it back.
I' m surprised you did not hear the screaming and sobbing from down under....the drinking started early today.
I have the "fixed" original radiator, but it is held together with a steel strap. It would work in an emergency, but it really
needs to be recored.
I'm sure the aluminum one can be repaired. I'll try the truck garages.
Thanks
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Radiator re-core [message #279285 is a reply to message #279249] |
Sun, 07 June 2015 16:21 |
Joe Weir
Messages: 769
Registered: February 2013
Location: Columbia, SC
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USAussie wrote on Sun, 07 June 2015 00:18Joe,
Definite Big Time AW CHIT!
When you get the radiator out post some photos of the damaged area to the Photo Site.
Regards,
Rob M.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/member-galleries/p58132-damage-done.html
76 Birchaven - "Wicked Mistress" - New engine, trans, alum radiator, brakes, Sully airbags, fuel lines, seats, adult beverage center... those Coachmen guys were really thinking about us second hand owners by including that beverage center...
Columbia, SC.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Radiator re-core [message #279287 is a reply to message #279285] |
Sun, 07 June 2015 17:12 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Joe,
Looks pretty easily repaired. I'll bet that now that you have experience
like mine, you'll begin, as I do, to use drill stops if there's any
penetration danger. :-)
Even an appropriately thick block of wood can be a disaster preventer.
Ken H.
On Sun, Jun 7, 2015 at 5:21 PM, Joe Weir wrote:
> USAussie wrote on Sun, 07 June 2015 00:18
>> Joe,
>>
>> Definite Big Time AW CHIT!
>>
>> When you get the radiator out post some photos of the damaged area to
> the Photo Site.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Rob M.
>
>
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/member-galleries/p58132-damage-done.html
>
>
> --
> 76 Birchaven - New engine, trans, aluminum radiator, brakes, airbags, fuel
> lines, seats, upholstery, adult beverage center... those Coachmen guys were
> really thinking about us second hand owners by including that beverage
> center...
> Columbia, SC.
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Radiator re-core [message #279302 is a reply to message #279287] |
Sun, 07 June 2015 19:50 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Ken,
I think it can be repaired but I don't think it's going to be "easy."
Here's what I'd do:
1) drain all the coolant out of the radiator
2) straighten out the fins bent by the drill to allow epoxy to flow through the complete core front to rear
3) position the radiator as it is installed and flush it several times with clear water to make sure there is no coolant in the
radiator
4) plug the lower hose connection, install the radiator cap and connect a garden hose to the upper radiator hose and allow water to
run out of the damaged area while spraying the outside of the core in the same area
5) drain all the water out of the radiator
6) position the radiator on the side tank with the lower radiator hose connection down and the upper radiator hose connection up
7) connect a wet/dry vacuum to the lower radiator hose connection and install the radiator cap
8) turn on the vacuum cleaner and spray the damaged area of the core with water to flush all traces of coolant from the fins / tubes
9) restrict the air flow into the upper radiator hose connection so that the vacuum will suck air into through damaged areas
10) remove the restriction from the upper radiator hose and direct a heat gun (hair dryer) at the damaged area with the vacuum
running until the damaged area is completely dry
11) spray the area around the damage with brake cleaner and blow it out with compressed air allow the area to dry completely
12) position the radiator to allow taping an area 6 inches x 6 inches on the engine side around the damaged area with duct tape
13) tape a piece of 6 inch x 6 inch x 1/2" - 3/4" thick foam rubber over the duct tape
14) turn the radiator over and block it up so that it is level, the inlet and outlet tubes are in the air and the radiator is
crushing the 6" x 6" foam rubber a bit
15) mask off the front of the radiator as shown in this photo:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/aa-miscellaneous-photos/p58136-radiator-repair.html
16) fill the area with slow cure high strength two part epoxy and allow to cure fully (you could pull a vacuum on the core to suck
some epoxy into the tubes while doing this but I don't think it will be necessary)
17) when the epoxy has cured pressure / leak test the radiator to 18 psi (double the recommended radiator cap setting)
If the above procedure doesn't work you will have to take the radiator to a shop that can remove the end caps and weld up the bottom
three rows of tubes. That will effect the cooling efficiency but the radiator will still work fine.
Comments?
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Ken Henderson
Sent: Monday, June 08, 2015 8:13 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Radiator re-core
Joe,
Looks pretty easily repaired. I'll bet that now that you have experience like mine, you'll begin, as I do, to use drill stops if
there's any
penetration danger. :-)
Even an appropriately thick block of wood can be a disaster preventer.
Ken H.
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Radiator re-core [message #279312 is a reply to message #279302] |
Sun, 07 June 2015 21:14 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Rob,
The damage may be deeper that it appears to me in the photo, but what I can
see looks to me like a near-trivial job for my local welder . I'll swear
he can weld up Coke cans!
If the damage is deeper than I believe, the repair will be more extensive,
possibly closing one or two tubes. But I don't think it will require
disassembly of the radiator.
I certainly would not attempt a DIY repair until he's refused to touch it
JMHO,
Ken H.
On Sun, Jun 7, 2015 at 8:50 PM, Robert Mueller
wrote:
> Ken,
>
> I think it can be repaired but I don't think it's going to be "easy."
>
> Here's what I'd do:
>
> 1) drain all the coolant out of the radiator
> 2) straighten out the fins bent by the drill to allow epoxy to flow
> through the complete core front to rear
> 3) position the radiator as it is installed and flush it several times
> with clear water to make sure there is no coolant in the
> radiator
> 4) plug the lower hose connection, install the radiator cap and connect a
> garden hose to the upper radiator hose and allow water to
> run out of the damaged area while spraying the outside of the core in the
> same area
> 5) drain all the water out of the radiator
> 6) position the radiator on the side tank with the lower radiator hose
> connection down and the upper radiator hose connection up
> 7) connect a wet/dry vacuum to the lower radiator hose connection and
> install the radiator cap
> 8) turn on the vacuum cleaner and spray the damaged area of the core with
> water to flush all traces of coolant from the fins / tubes
> 9) restrict the air flow into the upper radiator hose connection so that
> the vacuum will suck air into through damaged areas
> 10) remove the restriction from the upper radiator hose and direct a heat
> gun (hair dryer) at the damaged area with the vacuum
> running until the damaged area is completely dry
> 11) spray the area around the damage with brake cleaner and blow it out
> with compressed air allow the area to dry completely
> 12) position the radiator to allow taping an area 6 inches x 6 inches on
> the engine side around the damaged area with duct tape
> 13) tape a piece of 6 inch x 6 inch x 1/2" - 3/4" thick foam rubber over
> the duct tape
> 14) turn the radiator over and block it up so that it is level, the inlet
> and outlet tubes are in the air and the radiator is
> crushing the 6" x 6" foam rubber a bit
> 15) mask off the front of the radiator as shown in this photo:
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/aa-miscellaneous-photos/p58136-radiator-repair.html
> 16) fill the area with slow cure high strength two part epoxy and allow to
> cure fully (you could pull a vacuum on the core to suck
> some epoxy into the tubes while doing this but I don't think it will be
> necessary)
> 17) when the epoxy has cured pressure / leak test the radiator to 18 psi
> (double the recommended radiator cap setting)
>
> If the above procedure doesn't work you will have to take the radiator to
> a shop that can remove the end caps and weld up the bottom
> three rows of tubes. That will effect the cooling efficiency but the
> radiator will still work fine.
>
> Comments?
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> The Pedantic Mechanic
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Ken
> Henderson
> Sent: Monday, June 08, 2015 8:13 AM
> To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Radiator re-core
>
> Joe,
>
> Looks pretty easily repaired. I'll bet that now that you have experience
> like mine, you'll begin, as I do, to use drill stops if
> there's any
> penetration danger. :-)
>
> Even an appropriately thick block of wood can be a disaster preventer.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Radiator re-core [message #279322 is a reply to message #279287] |
Sun, 07 June 2015 22:35 |
Bullitthead
Messages: 1411
Registered: November 2013
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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I find that a stepped drill bit (Unibit), or a tapered bit avoids those snatch, grab, and screw through scenarios. And I can use the bits with an air ratchet, which has no flywheel momentum after you let off the trigger. Harbor Freight has a nice set of 3 tapered bits for less than ten bucks.
Terry Kelpien
ASE Master Technician
73 Glacier 260
Smithfield, Va.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Radiator re-core [message #279323 is a reply to message #279314] |
Sun, 07 June 2015 22:41 |
Bullitthead
Messages: 1411
Registered: November 2013
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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I saw that aluminum welding infomercial, I bought the rods...wish I could buy the talent to use them! I just can't seem to master the temperature control or something, but that guy on TV makes it look easy, doesn't he? I knew a guy that could weld up aluminum cans too, but he used a different kind of rod with a standard oxy/acetylene torch.
Terry Kelpien
ASE Master Technician
73 Glacier 260
Smithfield, Va.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Radiator re-core [message #279327 is a reply to message #279312] |
Sun, 07 June 2015 23:48 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Ken,
I assumed that the damage went deeper than the leading edge of the tube, however, I agree that he should take it to a local shop
that can repair it before he follows my suggestion.
If Joe wants more suggestions it would be good if he would straighten out the bent up fins and take photos of the damaged area from
straight on, from the left, from the right, from above, and from below.
There is something else in his photo that I don't understand, note how the bottom of the radiator is bent upwards and the first row
of fins are bent.
As far as stopping leaks like this I thought the radiator tubes were sealed off at both ends and to do that you have to remove the
tanks.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Ken Henderson
Sent: Monday, June 08, 2015 12:14 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Radiator re-core
Rob,
The damage may be deeper that it appears to me in the photo, but what I can
see looks to me like a near-trivial job for my local welder . I'll swear
he can weld up Coke cans!
If the damage is deeper than I believe, the repair will be more extensive,
possibly closing one or two tubes. But I don't think it will require
disassembly of the radiator.
I certainly would not attempt a DIY repair until he's refused to touch it
JMHO,
Ken H.
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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Radiator re-core [message #279330 is a reply to message #279323] |
Mon, 08 June 2015 01:23 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Terry,
I bought rods from the Coke can welding guy at an auto show somewhere, however, I never have tried them!
Here's a link to a guy that can do it!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pMESMI7yp0
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
-----Original Message-----
From: Terry
I saw that aluminum welding infomercial, I bought the rods...wish I could buy the talent to use them! I just can't seem to master
the temperature control or something, but that guy on TV makes it look easy, doesn't he? I knew a guy that could weld up aluminum
cans too, but he used a different kind of rod with a standard oxy/acetylene torch.
--
Terry
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Radiator re-core [message #279332 is a reply to message #279327] |
Mon, 08 June 2015 06:20 |
Joe Weir
Messages: 769
Registered: February 2013
Location: Columbia, SC
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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USAussie wrote on Sun, 07 June 2015 23:48Ken,
I assumed that the damage went deeper than the leading edge of the tube, however, I agree that he should take it to a local shop
that can repair it before he follows my suggestion.
If Joe wants more suggestions it would be good if he would straighten out the bent up fins and take photos of the damaged area from
straight on, from the left, from the right, from above, and from below.
There is something else in his photo that I don't understand, note how the bottom of the radiator is bent upwards and the first row
of fins are bent.
Can't remember if UPS did that or sometime after it came out of the box but before it was installed.
Quote:
The damage may be deeper that it appears to me in the photo, but what I can
see looks to me like a near-trivial job for my local welder . I'll swear
he can weld up Coke cans!
If the damage is deeper than I believe, the repair will be more extensive,
possibly closing one or two tubes. But I don't think it will require
disassembly of the radiator.
I certainly would not attempt a DIY repair until he's refused to touch it
I am not yet plugged in to the latest batch of master aluminum welders here. If there are none, I may need to road trip to borrow Ken's guy.
Spent the rest of the weekend on the interior, mostly the dash. New gauges, radio and brushed aluminum face - so the weekend wasn't a total loss.
76 Birchaven - "Wicked Mistress" - New engine, trans, alum radiator, brakes, Sully airbags, fuel lines, seats, adult beverage center... those Coachmen guys were really thinking about us second hand owners by including that beverage center...
Columbia, SC.
[Updated on: Mon, 08 June 2015 06:22] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] Radiator re-core [message #279335 is a reply to message #279332] |
Mon, 08 June 2015 07:49 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Joe,
Just do a Google search for TIG welders in your area and then call to see what they work on.
Sounds like you suffered one step back but made two steps forward!
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Weir
There is something else in his photo that I don't understand, note how the bottom of the radiator is bent upwards and the first row
of fins are bent.[\quote]
Can't remember if UPS did that or sometime after it came out of the box but before it was installed.
I am not yet plugged in to the latest batch of master aluminum welders here. If there are none, I may need to road trip to borrow
Ken's guy.
Spent the rest of the weekend on the interior, mostly the dash. New gauges, radio and brushed aluminum face - so the weekend wasn't
a total loss.
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Radiator re-core [message #279367 is a reply to message #279335] |
Mon, 08 June 2015 14:51 |
Joe Weir
Messages: 769
Registered: February 2013
Location: Columbia, SC
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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Found a local shop different from the first. Guy was recommended by the local hot rodders club. Dropped it off today, we will see.
Extent of damage photo for those inclined:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/radiator/p58144-radiator-holes.html
76 Birchaven - "Wicked Mistress" - New engine, trans, alum radiator, brakes, Sully airbags, fuel lines, seats, adult beverage center... those Coachmen guys were really thinking about us second hand owners by including that beverage center...
Columbia, SC.
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| Re: Radiator re-core [message #279374 is a reply to message #279219] |
Mon, 08 June 2015 16:07 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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That looks eminently patchable. Way low current heliarc should close it right up.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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