I was in the process of redoing the fuel system, adding in tank electric pumps and replacing all the fuel and vent lines. I had a local radiator shop clean the tanks, they cut panels out so they can sandblast the inside then reassemble the tanks and put a sealer on the inside. The first time they turned out good, the sender/pump assemblies fit tight but OK. Before I reassembled them I took a light to the inside and found a couple areas that hadn't been sealed and had started rusting already, when I talked to them they took responsibility and said they would redo them, 3 weeks later I get them back and they look rough, lots of evidence of warpage and hammer work to try to correct it, I wasn't very happy to see this but decided to move on with the project. I went to put the fuel sender/pump assemblies in and the tanks are now 3/4" thinner than they were and the sender/pump assemblies no longer fit. Of course they don't have anybody to talk to on Saturday so I have to wait until Tuesday to even talk to them and the plan was to be leaving in the MH Friday.... Ain't gonna happen now! Great way to start the holiday weekend.

Anybody have a good set of tanks that are ready to go? preferably in SW Washington? HA... like that's going to happen.

Any ideas for expanding the tanks back to their original size, I thought about sealing them and pumping them up until they expanded but that seams likely to end up with balloons.

Call me Grumpy.

Brian,

Low pressure air will do it.
When I was doing all my fuel work, I put just a few PSI in the tanks to pressure test them because I was very tired of having them down. I don't actually know how high a pressure I used, but when I looked back that the tank once, I jumped to get the pressure off it as it was WAY bigger than it was supposed to be.

Matt

The rating seems to be 2PSI. At 3psi the sender seal will start to leak. 4psi gets scary. Do the math. It comes out to approx 4.5 TONS of force trying to push the tank halves apart. That amounts to about 60 pounds per inch force on the seams.

If you do not have a low pressure regulator and gauge you can make one using a piece of 4" PVC pipe and a pipe cap. Put a T in the air line to your tank. Connect suitable hose or tube to the T. Stand the 4" pipe on end and fill with water. Put the tube into the water to the depth that corresponds to the pressure you want. 1 PSI = 2.31 feet. Slowly bleed air into your tank until it bubbles out of the pipe. Adjust depth to obtain the pressure you want. It's a bit clunky but accurate and cheap.

I would not use water. You will have the devils own time trying to get the water out and the tank dry.

I always recommend chemical rust stripping as the tank does not have to be cut like it does if you sand blast. Around here I had mine done for about $100. Then I used the POR gas tank product to coat the interior. I used Chassis Saver on the exterior.

Steve,

" I always recommend chemical rust stripping as the tank does not have to be cut like it does if you sand blast. Around here I had mine done for about $100. Then I used the POR gas tank product to coat the interior. I used Chassis Saver on the exterior. "


I thought of using POR to coat my tanks. The challenge that I couldn't overcome was in being sure it's all coated in the baffled areas.
When you did your tanks, how did you insure complete coverage in the baffled areas? I'd still would like to do it.

Thanks.

I was in the process of redoing the fuel system.

Anybody have a good set of tanks that are ready to go? preferably in SW Washington? HA... like that's going to happen.

Any ideas for expanding the tanks back to their original size, I thought about sealing them and pumping them up until they expanded but that seams likely to end up with balloons.