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Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » License Plate Light "Oops" (Questions About Repairing The Fiberglass and Relacement Fixture)
License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278183] Thu, 21 May 2015 23:10 Go to next message
A Hamilto is currently offline  A Hamilto   United States
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I finally got around to removing the monstrosity hanging off the back of the Sequoia (before picture below, after picture will be posted when I take one or two and post to the photo site).
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6181/W_0041.jpg
So I had to correct the "relocation" of the license plate light. The wires for the one in the storage box were poked through between the original fixture and the body. A PO reconfigured the Onan compartment, and there was no access to the light from inside, so I took the fixture out from the outside.

The "rivnuts" were turning in the fiberglass, and when I pried the light out, they took some fiberglass with them.

The light is not in very good shape, and the wire to the bulb broke right at the socket.

So two questions:

1. What's the cheap and easy way to patch the holes where I pulled out the rivnuts?

2. Is the fixture one that is readily available, or is there a call to Jim K in my future?
Re: License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278195 is a reply to message #278183] Fri, 22 May 2015 08:57 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bob S. is currently offline  Bob S.   United States
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When I got my coach, several of the rivnuts holding my ladder on were loose. I removed them and filled the holes with a putty style epoxy that I got at our local Ace Hardware. After letting it cure a couple of days, I sanded the excess flush, re-drilled the holes, installed new rivnuts, and tightened the new bolts. They are still holding 2 years later and I use the ladder regularly. JWID

Bob and Pam Schilling Rapid City, SD "78 Royale
Re: License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278196 is a reply to message #278183] Fri, 22 May 2015 09:07 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
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I can't begin to give you a source for a replacement fixture, but I can tell you what I have done a few times where a "rivnut" or the like came out (or was ripped out by an impatient owner). This fix has been long term successful for a few now.

Get:
JB Weld.
Long nuts, aka coupling nuts or double nuts of the desired thread (OE was 10-32 iirc)
Large OD washers to fit (This may take varying sizes stacked if the resulting hole is large.)
New clean nice screws.
A block of wood to fit the space and across both screws
A store shopping bag.
Tape - any tape

You will be working overhead and that adds a measure of PITA to this.
Clean the holes of debris as best you can, make sure that the nuts you are putting in fit in the holes.
If you can wash the inside of the hole with acetone or lacquer thinner, that might help.
Wash the nuts you will be using too and try to not handle them much now.
Stack the washers on the screws and push through the plastic bag at close to the correct centers. Too far is better than too close. (If you concerned about the C-C of you new holes, use the replacement fixture in this set-up and then it will be perfect. I never had to do that.)
Run the nuts down on the screws carefully so as not to damage the POS shopping bag film. (The bag is your release agent.)
Put a tiny piece of tape over the open end of the nuts. (I failed to do this just once. Salvage was a bear.)

Ready??
Mix JB weld and when you are sure it is well mixed, use a small stick to put some in the edges of the ragged holes.
Put a fillet (circular glob) of JB around the nuts.
Push that whole affair into place and lock in with the block of wood and tape.
Quit for the day.
Resist messing with it until the left over JB weld is solid.

When you take the block down and the screws out, you should have two new screw holes.

I have two ways that I fix things and both are scheduled so I should never have to look at it again. The expensive way for the owners is so the repair cannot be detected even on close inspection. The more popular is the CD&E fix (Cheap, Dirty and Effective). This would only qualify as the later.

Sorry I can't help you with a source for an assmbly.

Good Luck

Matt



A Hamilto wrote on Fri, 22 May 2015 00:10
<snip>
So I had to correct the "relocation" of the license plate light. The wires for the one in the storage box were poked through between the original fixture and the body. A PO reconfigured the Onan compartment, and there was no access to the light from inside, so I took the fixture out from the outside.

The "rivnuts" were turning in the fiberglass, and when I pried the light out, they took some fiberglass with them.

The light is not in very good shape, and the wire to the bulb broke right at the socket.

So two questions:

1. What's the cheap and easy way to patch the holes where I pulled out the rivnuts?

2. Is the fixture one that is readily available, or is there a call to Jim K in my future?



Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278197 is a reply to message #278196] Fri, 22 May 2015 12:08 Go to previous messageGo to next message
A Hamilto is currently offline  A Hamilto   United States
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Registered: April 2011
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Matt Colie wrote on Fri, 22 May 2015 09:07
I can't begin to give you a source for a replacement fixture, but I can tell you what I have done a few times where a "rivnut" or the like came out (or was ripped out by an impatient owner). This fix has been long term successful for a few now.

Get:
JB Weld.
Long nuts, aka coupling nuts or double nuts of the desired thread (OE was 10-32 iirc)
Large OD washers to fit (This may take varying sizes stacked if the resulting hole is large.)
New clean nice screws.
A block of wood to fit the space and across both screws
A store shopping bag.
Tape - any tape

You will be working overhead and that adds a measure of PITA to this.
Clean the holes of debris as best you can, make sure that the nuts you are putting in fit in the holes.
If you can wash the inside of the hole with acetone or lacquer thinner, that might help.
Wash the nuts you will be using too and try to not handle them much now.
Stack the washers on the screws and push through the plastic bag at close to the correct centers. Too far is better than too close. (If you concerned about the C-C of you new holes, use the replacement fixture in this set-up and then it will be perfect. I never had to do that.)
Run the nuts down on the screws carefully so as not to damage the POS shopping bag film. (The bag is your release agent.)
Put a tiny piece of tape over the open end of the nuts. (I failed to do this just once. Salvage was a bear.)

Ready??
Mix JB weld and when you are sure it is well mixed, use a small stick to put some in the edges of the ragged holes.
Put a fillet (circular glob) of JB around the nuts.
Push that whole affair into place and lock in with the block of wood and tape.
Quit for the day.
Resist messing with it until the left over JB weld is solid.

When you take the block down and the screws out, you should have two new screw holes.

I have two ways that I fix things and both are scheduled so I should never have to look at it again. The expensive way for the owners is so the repair cannot be detected even on close inspection. The more popular is the CD&E fix (Cheap, Dirty and Effective). This would only qualify as the later.

Sorry I can't help you with a source for an assmbly.

Good Luck

Matt
This should be either an instructable or a youtube video.

I didn't have a choice about getting this thing off. Even after I got it out where I could mess with it, the rivnuts were so effectively welded to the screws that I couldn't get the screws out with vicegrips holding the nuts while I turned the screws. Maybe if I could have gotten to the fixture from the inside I could have soaked them with penetrating oil for a few days before turning. But by the time I figure out the problem, the nuts were already spinning in the fiberglass. I drilled the heads off to separate them from the fixture. I can re-use the fixture if I can get the lens clean and a hot lead connected to the socket, but would rather not because it is so rusted. Whatever I do the bulb will be an LED so I never have to change it.
Re: [GMCnet] License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278199 is a reply to message #278197] Fri, 22 May 2015 12:30 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Guy Lopes is currently offline  Guy Lopes   United States
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Registered: April 2004
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Senior Member
Here's the one I bought to replace mine. Haven't started that project yet
though.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-license-plate-lights/2-smd-led-
license-plate-light/250/

Guy Lopes
76 Birchaven "Orion"
Sacramento, CA
W6TOL

www.GMC-Guy.com



... Whatever I do the bulb will be an LED so I never have to change it.
--
'73 23' Sequoia For Sale
'73 23' CanyonLands For Sale
Upper Alabama
After all is said and done, a helluva lot more is said than done.
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Guy Lopes 76 Birchaven "Orion" Sacramento, CA W6TOL www.GMC-Guy.com
Re: [GMCnet] License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278205 is a reply to message #278195] Fri, 22 May 2015 16:33 Go to previous messageGo to next message
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
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Location: Sydney, Australia
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Senior Member
G'day,

Be VERY careful when you re-drill holes in the rear panel, it is FULL of wires! I did what Bob did and wound up drilling through a
wire which was the 12vdc supply to the Dometic 2 way fridge. I was able to splice a new piece of wire in to fix it but it was a
PITA!

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Schilling

When I got my coach, several of the rivnuts holding my ladder on were loose. I removed them and filled the holes with a putty style
epoxy that I got at our local Ace Hardware. After letting it cure a couple of days, I sanded the excess flush, re-drilled the holes,
installed new rivnuts, and tightened the new bolts. They are still holding 2 years later and I use the ladder regularly. JWID
--
Bob

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Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: [GMCnet] License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278208 is a reply to message #278205] Fri, 22 May 2015 17:03 Go to previous messageGo to next message
A Hamilto is currently offline  A Hamilto   United States
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Senior Member
USAussie wrote on Fri, 22 May 2015 16:33
G'day,
Be VERY careful when you re-drill holes in the rear panel, it is FULL of wires! I did what Bob did and wound up drilling through a
wire which was the 12vdc supply to the Dometic 2 way fridge. I was able to splice a new piece of wire in to fix it but it was a
PITA!

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Right now I am planning to epoxy a chunk of plastic or something on the inside surface where the hole is. I can predrill and tap it for the screw that will go in it before I epoxy it in place. And I will use stainless steel screws. Hopefully that will prevent the screw from rust-welding itself to the "nut" (plastic) in the future. Add to that an LED replacement bulb and that should be a lifetime fix.
Re: [GMCnet] License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278209 is a reply to message #278208] Fri, 22 May 2015 17:41 Go to previous messageGo to next message
tphipps is currently offline  tphipps   United States
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Senior Member
At the last International, Bob Drewes gave a very good presentation on using West Epoxy products for fixing the same type of hole that you are dealing with. Basically, soaked a open foam plug in West Epoxy, pushed it through the existing hole, let the epoxy set up, then drilled a new hole.
This may be a good way to attack the problem. I would try it. Just check to be sure of the correct epoxy for the SMC material.
Tom, MS II


2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552 KA4CSG
Re: [GMCnet] License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278211 is a reply to message #278209] Fri, 22 May 2015 17:47 Go to previous messageGo to next message
emerystora is currently offline  emerystora   United States
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Senior Member
That was not Bob Drewes. He had already passed away. RIP.

That was Dale Ropp who gave the presentation

That was a foam ear plug.
About any epoxy will work with SMC. Just don't use polyester resin.

Emery Stora

> On May 22, 2015, at 4:41 PM, Thomas Phipps wrote:
>
> At the last International, Bob Drewes gave a very good presentation on using West Epoxy products for fixing the same type of hole that you are dealing
> with. Basically, soaked a open foam plug in West Epoxy, pushed it through the existing hole, let the epoxy set up, then drilled a new hole.
> This may be a good way to attack the problem. I would try it. Just check to be sure of the correct epoxy for the SMC material.
> Tom, MS II
> --
> 1975 GMC Avion
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Re: License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278380 is a reply to message #278183] Mon, 25 May 2015 13:28 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gatsbys' Cruiser is currently offline  Gatsbys' Cruiser   United States
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Member
My rear license plate light fixture was shot when I got the GMC. The clear plastic lost it's seal and was quite a mess.

The fixture was rusted beyond repair, I don't know if there are any replacements but as lights are fast turning to LED, It would be pretty easy to find an LED light that wires to 12v dc. Just mount and reseal the clear plastic to the body.

The fiberglas can be repaired with epoxy and glass if you have it, you can also use body filler if there is enough there for it to hold onto.
Some glues will let you glue the holes shut but if it is in sight, you want to do a good job.

Re: License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278412 is a reply to message #278380] Mon, 25 May 2015 22:00 Go to previous messageGo to next message
A Hamilto is currently offline  A Hamilto   United States
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Gatsbys' Cruiser wrote on Mon, 25 May 2015 13:28
My rear license plate light fixture was shot when I got the GMC. The clear plastic lost it's seal and was quite a mess.
The fixture was rusted beyond repair, I don't know if there are any replacements but as lights are fast turning to LED, It would be pretty easy to find an LED light that wires to 12v dc. Just mount and reseal the clear plastic to the body.

The fiberglas can be repaired with epoxy and glass if you have it, you can also use body filler if there is enough there for it to hold onto.
Some glues will let you glue the holes shut but if it is in sight, you want to do a good job.
The fixture is not completely rusted, but needs to be replaced, especially since I am going to use LEDs instead of an incandescent bulb. The lens needs to be cleaned, and could be IF I could get the fixture apart to clean it, but taking it apart would almost certainly render it landfill material.

The holes in the body are not completely mangled, tearing out the "rivnuts" removed about half of the fiberglass leaving the body about half thickness at the holes. The holes are not very visible unless you are quite a bit shorter than the height of the license plate light. Or laying on the ground. Like looking up someone's nostrils. Any way I decide to patch them should be mostly invisible, unless I am really sloppy.
Re: License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278451 is a reply to message #278412] Tue, 26 May 2015 14:32 Go to previous messageGo to next message
A Hamilto is currently offline  A Hamilto   United States
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One candidate fixture might be one for a 1984 - 1996 Jeep Cherokee. One hole is offset from the other, probably need to fill both and redrill them on the body. Might need to reshape the opening too. Don't know yet if it is as wide as the OEM assembly. Looks to be all plastic, so shouldn't rust out again.
Re: License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278454 is a reply to message #278183] Tue, 26 May 2015 15:13 Go to previous messageGo to next message
thesmith is currently offline  thesmith   United States
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What is the "monstosity"?

Pete


A Hamilto wrote on Thu, 21 May 2015 23:10
I finally got around to removing the monstrosity hanging off the back of the Sequoia (before picture below, after picture will be posted when I take one or two and post to the photo site).
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6181/W_0041.jpg
So I had to correct the "relocation" of the license plate light. The wires for the one in the storage box were poked through between the original fixture and the body. A PO reconfigured the Onan compartment, and there was no access to the light from inside, so I took the fixture out from the outside.

The "rivnuts" were turning in the fiberglass, and when I pried the light out, they took some fiberglass with them.

The light is not in very good shape, and the wire to the bulb broke right at the socket.

So two questions:

1. What's the cheap and easy way to patch the holes where I pulled out the rivnuts?

2. Is the fixture one that is readily available, or is there a call to Jim K in my future?



Cary, NC 1978 Center Kitchen Royale.
Re: License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278458 is a reply to message #278454] Tue, 26 May 2015 15:35 Go to previous messageGo to next message
A Hamilto is currently offline  A Hamilto   United States
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thesmith wrote on Tue, 26 May 2015 15:13
What is the "monstrosity"?
Pete
The thing that extends the bumper two feet behind where it belongs with the ugly galvanized metal box on it.

If you want the stuff to move your bumper back you can have it. Otherwise it is going to the scrapyard for 11 cents a pound. The box is going to get cut up to line the wooden Onan compartment.
Re: License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278492 is a reply to message #278458] Wed, 27 May 2015 06:13 Go to previous messageGo to next message
thesmith is currently offline  thesmith   United States
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I was thinking it was a big generator, House AC unit, deep freeze or similar......it is ugly Smile

Pete



A Hamilto wrote on Tue, 26 May 2015 15:35
thesmith wrote on Tue, 26 May 2015 15:13
What is the "monstrosity"?
Pete
The thing that extends the bumper two feet behind where it belongs with the ugly galvanized metal box on it.

If you want the stuff to move your bumper back you can have it. Otherwise it is going to the scrapyard for 11 cents a pound. The box is going to get cut up to line the wooden Onan compartment.



Cary, NC 1978 Center Kitchen Royale.
Re: License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278545 is a reply to message #278492] Wed, 27 May 2015 14:44 Go to previous messageGo to next message
A Hamilto is currently offline  A Hamilto   United States
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thesmith wrote on Wed, 27 May 2015 06:13
I was thinking it was a big generator, House AC unit, deep freeze or similar......it is ugly Smile
Pete
Sorry. I misunderstood the question. A PO took the pod off the roof and removed the ladder and put that metal box on the back for exterior storage. I don't plan to put a roof pod or a ladder on it. I am too old and fat to be climbing and crawling around up there.
Re: License Plate Light "Oops" [message #287852 is a reply to message #278545] Fri, 25 September 2015 14:52 Go to previous messageGo to next message
A Hamilto is currently offline  A Hamilto   United States
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For those that were losing sleep over my license plate lamp "fiasco", I cleaned up the old fixture and used it. It was not completely rusted out. The "oops" was fixed by cutting off the plastic that stuck out the bottom of the bulb holder to get a long enough stump to solder a new pigtail to. I also cleaned the socket base and soldered a wire to it for a better ground connection. I bought some "u-nuts" to slide onto where the original nuts were imbedded in the SMC and used machine screws to attach the fixture to the body.

These are "U-nuts":
http://cliphouse.com/images/products/thumb/AV11292.jpg
Re: License Plate Light "Oops" [message #287858 is a reply to message #278183] Fri, 25 September 2015 16:36 Go to previous message
jhbridges is currently offline  jhbridges   United States
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One sort of Tinnerman fastener. Have a look here:

http://www.afi.cc/contentonly.aspx?file=images/vendors/Tinnerman.pdf

--johnny


Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons. Braselton, Ga. I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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