Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » License Plate Light "Oops" (Questions About Repairing The Fiberglass and Relacement Fixture)
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Re: License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278195 is a reply to message #278183] |
Fri, 22 May 2015 08:57 |
Bob S.
Messages: 143 Registered: October 2012 Location: Rapid City, SD
Karma: 2
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When I got my coach, several of the rivnuts holding my ladder on were loose. I removed them and filled the holes with a putty style epoxy that I got at our local Ace Hardware. After letting it cure a couple of days, I sanded the excess flush, re-drilled the holes, installed new rivnuts, and tightened the new bolts. They are still holding 2 years later and I use the ladder regularly. JWID
Bob and Pam Schilling
Rapid City, SD
"78 Royale
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Re: License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278196 is a reply to message #278183] |
Fri, 22 May 2015 09:07 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547 Registered: March 2007 Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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I can't begin to give you a source for a replacement fixture, but I can tell you what I have done a few times where a "rivnut" or the like came out (or was ripped out by an impatient owner). This fix has been long term successful for a few now.
Get:
JB Weld.
Long nuts, aka coupling nuts or double nuts of the desired thread (OE was 10-32 iirc)
Large OD washers to fit (This may take varying sizes stacked if the resulting hole is large.)
New clean nice screws.
A block of wood to fit the space and across both screws
A store shopping bag.
Tape - any tape
You will be working overhead and that adds a measure of PITA to this.
Clean the holes of debris as best you can, make sure that the nuts you are putting in fit in the holes.
If you can wash the inside of the hole with acetone or lacquer thinner, that might help.
Wash the nuts you will be using too and try to not handle them much now.
Stack the washers on the screws and push through the plastic bag at close to the correct centers. Too far is better than too close. (If you concerned about the C-C of you new holes, use the replacement fixture in this set-up and then it will be perfect. I never had to do that.)
Run the nuts down on the screws carefully so as not to damage the POS shopping bag film. (The bag is your release agent.)
Put a tiny piece of tape over the open end of the nuts. (I failed to do this just once. Salvage was a bear.)
Ready??
Mix JB weld and when you are sure it is well mixed, use a small stick to put some in the edges of the ragged holes.
Put a fillet (circular glob) of JB around the nuts.
Push that whole affair into place and lock in with the block of wood and tape.
Quit for the day.
Resist messing with it until the left over JB weld is solid.
When you take the block down and the screws out, you should have two new screw holes.
I have two ways that I fix things and both are scheduled so I should never have to look at it again. The expensive way for the owners is so the repair cannot be detected even on close inspection. The more popular is the CD&E fix (Cheap, Dirty and Effective). This would only qualify as the later.
Sorry I can't help you with a source for an assmbly.
Good Luck
Matt
A Hamilto wrote on Fri, 22 May 2015 00:10<snip>
So I had to correct the "relocation" of the license plate light. The wires for the one in the storage box were poked through between the original fixture and the body. A PO reconfigured the Onan compartment, and there was no access to the light from inside, so I took the fixture out from the outside.
The "rivnuts" were turning in the fiberglass, and when I pried the light out, they took some fiberglass with them.
The light is not in very good shape, and the wire to the bulb broke right at the socket.
So two questions:
1. What's the cheap and easy way to patch the holes where I pulled out the rivnuts?
2. Is the fixture one that is readily available, or is there a call to Jim K in my future?
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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Re: License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278197 is a reply to message #278196] |
Fri, 22 May 2015 12:08 |
A Hamilto
Messages: 4508 Registered: April 2011
Karma: 39
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Senior Member |
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Matt Colie wrote on Fri, 22 May 2015 09:07I can't begin to give you a source for a replacement fixture, but I can tell you what I have done a few times where a "rivnut" or the like came out (or was ripped out by an impatient owner). This fix has been long term successful for a few now.
Get:
JB Weld.
Long nuts, aka coupling nuts or double nuts of the desired thread (OE was 10-32 iirc)
Large OD washers to fit (This may take varying sizes stacked if the resulting hole is large.)
New clean nice screws.
A block of wood to fit the space and across both screws
A store shopping bag.
Tape - any tape
You will be working overhead and that adds a measure of PITA to this.
Clean the holes of debris as best you can, make sure that the nuts you are putting in fit in the holes.
If you can wash the inside of the hole with acetone or lacquer thinner, that might help.
Wash the nuts you will be using too and try to not handle them much now.
Stack the washers on the screws and push through the plastic bag at close to the correct centers. Too far is better than too close. (If you concerned about the C-C of you new holes, use the replacement fixture in this set-up and then it will be perfect. I never had to do that.)
Run the nuts down on the screws carefully so as not to damage the POS shopping bag film. (The bag is your release agent.)
Put a tiny piece of tape over the open end of the nuts. (I failed to do this just once. Salvage was a bear.)
Ready??
Mix JB weld and when you are sure it is well mixed, use a small stick to put some in the edges of the ragged holes.
Put a fillet (circular glob) of JB around the nuts.
Push that whole affair into place and lock in with the block of wood and tape.
Quit for the day.
Resist messing with it until the left over JB weld is solid.
When you take the block down and the screws out, you should have two new screw holes.
I have two ways that I fix things and both are scheduled so I should never have to look at it again. The expensive way for the owners is so the repair cannot be detected even on close inspection. The more popular is the CD&E fix (Cheap, Dirty and Effective). This would only qualify as the later.
Sorry I can't help you with a source for an assmbly.
Good Luck
Matt This should be either an instructable or a youtube video.
I didn't have a choice about getting this thing off. Even after I got it out where I could mess with it, the rivnuts were so effectively welded to the screws that I couldn't get the screws out with vicegrips holding the nuts while I turned the screws. Maybe if I could have gotten to the fixture from the inside I could have soaked them with penetrating oil for a few days before turning. But by the time I figure out the problem, the nuts were already spinning in the fiberglass. I drilled the heads off to separate them from the fixture. I can re-use the fixture if I can get the lens clean and a hot lead connected to the socket, but would rather not because it is so rusted. Whatever I do the bulb will be an LED so I never have to change it.
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Re: [GMCnet] License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278205 is a reply to message #278195] |
Fri, 22 May 2015 16:33 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912 Registered: July 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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G'day,
Be VERY careful when you re-drill holes in the rear panel, it is FULL of wires! I did what Bob did and wound up drilling through a
wire which was the 12vdc supply to the Dometic 2 way fridge. I was able to splice a new piece of wire in to fix it but it was a
PITA!
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Schilling
When I got my coach, several of the rivnuts holding my ladder on were loose. I removed them and filled the holes with a putty style
epoxy that I got at our local Ace Hardware. After letting it cure a couple of days, I sanded the excess flush, re-drilled the holes,
installed new rivnuts, and tightened the new bolts. They are still holding 2 years later and I use the ladder regularly. JWID
--
Bob
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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Re: [GMCnet] License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278209 is a reply to message #278208] |
Fri, 22 May 2015 17:41 |
tphipps
Messages: 3005 Registered: August 2004 Location: Spanish Fort, AL
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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At the last International, Bob Drewes gave a very good presentation on using West Epoxy products for fixing the same type of hole that you are dealing with. Basically, soaked a open foam plug in West Epoxy, pushed it through the existing hole, let the epoxy set up, then drilled a new hole.
This may be a good way to attack the problem. I would try it. Just check to be sure of the correct epoxy for the SMC material.
Tom, MS II
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
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Re: [GMCnet] License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278211 is a reply to message #278209] |
Fri, 22 May 2015 17:47 |
emerystora
Messages: 4442 Registered: January 2004
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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That was not Bob Drewes. He had already passed away. RIP.
That was Dale Ropp who gave the presentation
That was a foam ear plug.
About any epoxy will work with SMC. Just don't use polyester resin.
Emery Stora
> On May 22, 2015, at 4:41 PM, Thomas Phipps wrote:
>
> At the last International, Bob Drewes gave a very good presentation on using West Epoxy products for fixing the same type of hole that you are dealing
> with. Basically, soaked a open foam plug in West Epoxy, pushed it through the existing hole, let the epoxy set up, then drilled a new hole.
> This may be a good way to attack the problem. I would try it. Just check to be sure of the correct epoxy for the SMC material.
> Tom, MS II
> --
> 1975 GMC Avion
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Re: License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278412 is a reply to message #278380] |
Mon, 25 May 2015 22:00 |
A Hamilto
Messages: 4508 Registered: April 2011
Karma: 39
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Senior Member |
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Gatsbys' Cruiser wrote on Mon, 25 May 2015 13:28My rear license plate light fixture was shot when I got the GMC. The clear plastic lost it's seal and was quite a mess.
The fixture was rusted beyond repair, I don't know if there are any replacements but as lights are fast turning to LED, It would be pretty easy to find an LED light that wires to 12v dc. Just mount and reseal the clear plastic to the body.
The fiberglas can be repaired with epoxy and glass if you have it, you can also use body filler if there is enough there for it to hold onto.
Some glues will let you glue the holes shut but if it is in sight, you want to do a good job. The fixture is not completely rusted, but needs to be replaced, especially since I am going to use LEDs instead of an incandescent bulb. The lens needs to be cleaned, and could be IF I could get the fixture apart to clean it, but taking it apart would almost certainly render it landfill material.
The holes in the body are not completely mangled, tearing out the "rivnuts" removed about half of the fiberglass leaving the body about half thickness at the holes. The holes are not very visible unless you are quite a bit shorter than the height of the license plate light. Or laying on the ground. Like looking up someone's nostrils. Any way I decide to patch them should be mostly invisible, unless I am really sloppy.
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Re: License Plate Light "Oops" [message #278454 is a reply to message #278183] |
Tue, 26 May 2015 15:13 |
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thesmith
Messages: 589 Registered: February 2015 Location: Cary, NC
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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What is the "monstosity"?
Pete
A Hamilto wrote on Thu, 21 May 2015 23:10I finally got around to removing the monstrosity hanging off the back of the Sequoia (before picture below, after picture will be posted when I take one or two and post to the photo site).
So I had to correct the "relocation" of the license plate light. The wires for the one in the storage box were poked through between the original fixture and the body. A PO reconfigured the Onan compartment, and there was no access to the light from inside, so I took the fixture out from the outside.
The "rivnuts" were turning in the fiberglass, and when I pried the light out, they took some fiberglass with them.
The light is not in very good shape, and the wire to the bulb broke right at the socket.
So two questions:
1. What's the cheap and easy way to patch the holes where I pulled out the rivnuts?
2. Is the fixture one that is readily available, or is there a call to Jim K in my future?
Cary, NC
1978 Center Kitchen Royale.
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