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Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve [message #276850] Mon, 27 April 2015 17:46 Go to next message
djeffers is currently offline  djeffers   United States
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Registered: June 2004
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Senior Member
Hello,

We are looking for an electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve.

Thought the Pollak 42-159 would work, but found it is 6 1/4 inches from top to bottom and it is rotated about 30 degrees from its integral mount so that the inlet and outlet ports are not parallel to the mounting surface, maybe creating some fuel line routing problems. .

Thought we had seen on the Forum that some were using the Pollak tank selector valve. If so,
where are you mounting this rather large valve and in what orientation?.

We need to accommodate the higher pressure of our 45 psi fuel injection system so the regular
GMC electric fuel tank selector valve and its low pressure rating probably won't work for us.

Thanks for any suggestions,

Don and Susan Jeffers
78 Eleganza II
Re: Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve [message #276852 is a reply to message #276850] Mon, 27 April 2015 18:06 Go to previous messageGo to next message
rvanwin is currently offline  rvanwin   United States
Messages: 325
Registered: April 2007
Location: Battlefield, MO
Karma: 6
Senior Member
djeffers wrote on Mon, 27 April 2015 17:46
Hello,

We are looking for an electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve.

Thought the Pollak 42-159 would work, but found it is 6 1/4 inches from top to bottom and it is rotated about 30 degrees from its integral mount so that the inlet and outlet ports are not parallel to the mounting surface, maybe creating some fuel line routing problems. .

Thought we had seen on the Forum that some were using the Pollak tank selector valve. If so,
where are you mounting this rather large valve and in what orientation?.

We need to accommodate the higher pressure of our 45 psi fuel injection system so the regular
GMC electric fuel tank selector valve and its low pressure rating probably won't work for us.

Thanks for any suggestions,

Don and Susan Jeffers
78 Eleganza II

I would suggest putting a second fuel pump on instead of using the selector valve. Use a relay. Run the power now going to the existing pump to the relay. Use the fuel Aux slector switch to power the relay. When on main (no power to relay) wire the pass thru lug (87 I think) to the existing pump. When pressing Aux the relay will switch power to the other lug (87a I think) and wire that to the new pump. Put the pumps as close to the tanks as you can. I have mounted the two pumps on a plate and mount to the cross beam. The plate acts as a shield for the pumps. Most pumps have a built in check valve but some folks have put check valves in to prevent flow back through the idle pump.

Doing this takes the selector valve out of the circuit and provides you a built in backup in case one pump fails.


Randy & Margie
'77 Eleganza II '403'
Battlefield, MO
Re: Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve [message #276854 is a reply to message #276852] Mon, 27 April 2015 18:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
djeffers is currently offline  djeffers   United States
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Registered: June 2004
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Randy,

What you say would work, except that our concern is with the fuel return line. Our in tank pumps have check valves and are no problem

We are plumbing for separate fill pipes to each tank so need to return to the tank being pumped from with a fuel selector valve.

Thanks for the suggestion. I will edit my first note if I can so this is clear.

Regards,

Don and Susan Jeffers
78 Elleganza II
Re: Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve [message #276857 is a reply to message #276854] Mon, 27 April 2015 19:11 Go to previous messageGo to next message
rickmike is currently offline  rickmike   
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The return is low pressure.

You can use the original selector valve.

Rick M.


1974 26' Canyonlands aka "The General" Clinton, TN
Re: Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve [message #276870 is a reply to message #276850] Mon, 27 April 2015 22:40 Go to previous messageGo to next message
zhagrieb is currently offline  zhagrieb   United States
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Registered: August 2009
Location: Portland Oregon
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Senior Member
Try your local auto parts store, most pickups with dual fuel tanks use them.

Glenn Giere, Portland OR, K7GAG '73 "Moby the Motorhome" 26'
Re: Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve [message #276878 is a reply to message #276870] Tue, 28 April 2015 00:11 Go to previous messageGo to next message
djeffers is currently offline  djeffers   United States
Messages: 219
Registered: June 2004
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Senior Member

Thanks all for thanks for the suggestions.

But the original style low pressure selector valves are not suited for use with in tank pumps; low or high pressure.

The low pressure selector valves are designed to be placed between the tank and the pump and
are generally rated at 8 psi vacuum, not pressure. I wish the original style selector valves were suitable as they are small and compact.

Our present in-tank fuel pumps are rated at 75-80 psi pressure and pressurizing through the
original style tank selector valve in the backwards direction from design, could result in a very high pressure differential above design for the valve.

The failure mode is usually failure of the internal seals and cross-circuiting of the fuel flow. At some pressure they could leak fuel.

Our entire fuel system is high pressure.

The in-tank pumps rated at 75-80 psi (hopefully no vapor lock) and are set into a one inch sump in the bottom of the tanks. The lines off the fuel tank sending units for both delivery and return use inverted flare connections with modern high pressure flexible lines for about six inches or so transitioning to steel tubing for about another 30 inches where they are connected to more steel tubing through inverted flare fittings on up to the engine area.

Then another high pressure flex line crosses from the frame to the factory engine mounted fuel
injection fuel filter and more steel line to the fuel injection pressure regulator that holds pressure in the fuel rails to 45 psi at the injectors. The rest of the fuel goes back to the tank in the same manner via steel lines.

Our entire fuel system is designed to be robust and well suited for even more alcohol in the fuel, if the government ups the alcohol level up to 15%, as they are threatening to do.

As long as no obstructions arise in the fuel return line the pressure would be fairly low. But, given a piece of road debris such as a tire alligator hitting and crimping a fuel return line, the pressure could go up to the maximum of the pump, 75-80 psi. Also, if someone were to leave the key on and the fuel pump running with the engine off, the return line pressure could go up pretty high.

The Pollack selector valves are rated at 65 psi and are suited for the pressure requirement, but have an awkward angle on their built in mounting bracket and are handed wrong. The ports are arranged for mounting on the passenger side of the coach and our GMCs have the fuel system on the drivers side.

So with our three tank system, we would have to run two Pollack selector valves mounted upside
down (okay) with awkward line bends (not so okay) due to the Pollack valve being rotated about
30 degrees to its mount and lying on its side due to the 6 ½ inch height. .

So we were hoping someone had found an okay location to mount the long Pollacks. Or even
better, found a high pressure electric fuel selector valve more suitable for our GMCs.

We do welcome all suggestions as they lead us to think.

Thanks,

Don and Susan Jeffers
78 Eleganza II with EFI

Getting a lot of quality time together under the coach building this fuel system!
Re: Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve [message #276881 is a reply to message #276878] Tue, 28 April 2015 01:52 Go to previous messageGo to next message
mercdave is currently offline  mercdave   United States
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Registered: May 2014
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Member
It just so happens that I mounted one of the Ford style 3/8 6 port fuel selector valves under our 23 a few weeks ago. I used the Standard FV5 but it looks exactly like the Pollak. I did not use the return lines so they are blocked off. I just did not like the choices that were offered in a 3/8 valve so I went for the FV5.

I just went out and snapped a few photos of the installation. I expected to make a bracket to mount it to but instead I was able to move it back to the crossmember right in front of the front tank. I drilled two holes in the bottom flange of the crossmember and bolted up into the fuel valve. For plumbing, I was able to relocate the main tank line through the large round hole in the crossmember and the aux tank line was relocated to the electric boost pump which is wired to the selector valve to run while the aux tank is selected. Since you are running FI this will be irrelevant but the mount location might help.

Be careful using fuel injection hose on those plastic fuel barbs on the pump, they are brittle Sad

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6782/medium/WP_20150427_012.jpg

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6782/medium/WP_20150427_009.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-FV5-Valve/dp/B000CPJZ68/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1430203221&sr=8-1&keywords=standard+FV5



Dave L
Lynnwood, Wa.

1976 GMC 26' Edgemonte Rear Twin
1973 GMC 23' Rear-Ended, Totaled

Re: Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve [message #276890 is a reply to message #276878] Tue, 28 April 2015 08:00 Go to previous messageGo to next message
thesmith is currently offline  thesmith   United States
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Registered: February 2015
Location: Cary, NC
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Senior Member
Why do you need a selector valve if you have in tank pumps (or even one external electric pump per tank)?
I thought I had read that they have non return valves so all you have to do is switch on the pump in the tank you want to use.........


Pete



djeffers wrote on Tue, 28 April 2015 00:11

Thanks all for thanks for the suggestions.

But the original style low pressure selector valves are not suited for use with in tank pumps; low or high pressure.

The low pressure selector valves are designed to be placed between the tank and the pump and
are generally rated at 8 psi vacuum, not pressure. I wish the original style selector valves were suitable as they are small and compact.

Our present in-tank fuel pumps are rated at 75-80 psi pressure and pressurizing through the
original style tank selector valve in the backwards direction from design, could result in a very high pressure differential above design for the valve.

The failure mode is usually failure of the internal seals and cross-circuiting of the fuel flow. At some pressure they could leak fuel.

Our entire fuel system is high pressure.

The in-tank pumps rated at 75-80 psi (hopefully no vapor lock) and are set into a one inch sump in the bottom of the tanks. The lines off the fuel tank sending units for both delivery and return use inverted flare connections with modern high pressure flexible lines for about six inches or so transitioning to steel tubing for about another 30 inches where they are connected to more steel tubing through inverted flare fittings on up to the engine area.

Then another high pressure flex line crosses from the frame to the factory engine mounted fuel
injection fuel filter and more steel line to the fuel injection pressure regulator that holds pressure in the fuel rails to 45 psi at the injectors. The rest of the fuel goes back to the tank in the same manner via steel lines.

Our entire fuel system is designed to be robust and well suited for even more alcohol in the fuel, if the government ups the alcohol level up to 15%, as they are threatening to do.

As long as no obstructions arise in the fuel return line the pressure would be fairly low. But, given a piece of road debris such as a tire alligator hitting and crimping a fuel return line, the pressure could go up to the maximum of the pump, 75-80 psi. Also, if someone were to leave the key on and the fuel pump running with the engine off, the return line pressure could go up pretty high.

The Pollack selector valves are rated at 65 psi and are suited for the pressure requirement, but have an awkward angle on their built in mounting bracket and are handed wrong. The ports are arranged for mounting on the passenger side of the coach and our GMCs have the fuel system on the drivers side.

So with our three tank system, we would have to run two Pollack selector valves mounted upside
down (okay) with awkward line bends (not so okay) due to the Pollack valve being rotated about
30 degrees to its mount and lying on its side due to the 6 ½ inch height. .

So we were hoping someone had found an okay location to mount the long Pollacks. Or even
better, found a high pressure electric fuel selector valve more suitable for our GMCs.

We do welcome all suggestions as they lead us to think.

Thanks,

Don and Susan Jeffers
78 Eleganza II with EFI

Getting a lot of quality time together under the coach building this fuel system!



Cary, NC 1978 Center Kitchen Royale.
Re: Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve [message #276894 is a reply to message #276878] Tue, 28 April 2015 09:08 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jp Benson is currently offline  Jp Benson   United States
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Registered: October 2011
Location: Fla
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djeffers wrote on Tue, 28 April 2015 00:11

Also, if someone were to leave the key on and the fuel pump running with the engine off, the return line pressure could go up pretty high.


For safety reasons you might want to install a low oil pressure cutoff switch.

http://www.gmcmotorhome.info/engine.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/misc/p19123-electric-fuel-pump-wiring.html

JP
Re: Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve [message #276912 is a reply to message #276890] Tue, 28 April 2015 13:55 Go to previous messageGo to next message
djeffers is currently offline  djeffers   United States
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[quote title=thesmith wrote on Tue, 28 April 2015 09:00]Why do you need a selector valve if you have in tank pumps (or even one external electric pump per tank)?
I thought I had read that they have non return valves so all you have to do is switch on the pump in the tank you want to use.........

Pete

[quote title=djeffers wrote on Tue, 28 April 2015 00:11]

Good question Pete.

The fuel pumps do have non return valves and are on a common fuel delivery line. We don't
need the fuel selector valve for the fuel from the tank to the engine, but for the fuel returning to the tank from the engine.

The last stage of the three tank system we are building is to make individual fuel fill lines from three individual gas caps to the three tanks; so at that point the return fuel will need to go back to the tank it came from, requiring fuel tank selector valves.

It would have been a lot easier to use the common rail fuel delivery line, use only one common
vapor line to the existing filler neck and one common rail fuel return line to all three tanks with no fuel selector valves. Our fuel pump/sending units lines dump return fuel at the base of the in tank pumps pick up.

Three simple lines (delivery, return and vapor) would have been a lot easier but won't work with three totally separate fuel tank systems. We might go with a common fuel return line until we find suitable fuel selector valves.

Our goal is to make three totally independent fuel tank systems.

Don and Susan Jeffers
78 Eleganza II EFI

Re: Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve [message #276913 is a reply to message #276912] Tue, 28 April 2015 14:13 Go to previous messageGo to next message
thesmith is currently offline  thesmith   United States
Messages: 589
Registered: February 2015
Location: Cary, NC
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Senior Member
Ok I get it.

Could one simply have the return go to the 3rd tank and have "overflow" pipes between the 3rd and the 2nd and 1st tanks? If you are drawing from tank one and tank 2 and 3 are full then the
return would flow through them to tank one until tank one is getting low and you switch to tank 2, again the overflow flows through tank 3 into tank 2 until its nearly empty and then you can switch to tank 3. You could even use the pumps for tanks 1 and 2 to completely empty those tanks into tank three by running the pumps but not the engine (special switched mode)pumping all remaining into tank 3.

yes it still relies on non redundant overflow connections (and non redundant tanks) but those are perhaps less likely to give problems than a selector valve and the assorted tubing and wiring associated with that.

Pete




[quote title=djeffers wrote on Tue, 28 April 2015 13:55][quote title=thesmith wrote on Tue, 28 April 2015 09:00]Why do you need a selector valve if you have in tank pumps (or even one external electric pump per tank)?
I thought I had read that they have non return valves so all you have to do is switch on the pump in the tank you want to use.........

Pete

djeffers wrote on Tue, 28 April 2015 00:11


Good question Pete.

The fuel pumps do have non return valves and are on a common fuel delivery line. We don't
need the fuel selector valve for the fuel from the tank to the engine, but for the fuel returning to the tank from the engine.

The last stage of the three tank system we are building is to make individual fuel fill lines from three individual gas caps to the three tanks; so at that point the return fuel will need to go back to the tank it came from, requiring fuel tank selector valves.

It would have been a lot easier to use the common rail fuel delivery line, use only one common
vapor line to the existing filler neck and one common rail fuel return line to all three tanks with no fuel selector valves. Our fuel pump/sending units lines dump return fuel at the base of the in tank pumps pick up.

Three simple lines (delivery, return and vapor) would have been a lot easier but won't work with three totally separate fuel tank systems. We might go with a common fuel return line until we find suitable fuel selector valves.

Our goal is to make three totally independent fuel tank systems.

Don and Susan Jeffers
78 Eleganza II EFI




Cary, NC 1978 Center Kitchen Royale.
Re: [GMCnet] Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve [message #276915 is a reply to message #276912] Tue, 28 April 2015 14:14 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Daniel Starks is currently offline  Daniel Starks   United States
Messages: 20
Registered: April 2015
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Junior Member
Purchase 3 solenoid valves, one for each return to tank, and wire each in parallel to it's corresponding fuel pump.

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Don Jeffers
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2015 12:56 PM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve

[quote title=thesmith wrote on Tue, 28 April 2015 09:00]Why do you need a selector valve if you have in tank pumps (or even one external electric pump per tank)?
I thought I had read that they have non return valves so all you have to do is switch on the pump in the tank you want to use.........

Pete

[quote title=djeffers wrote on Tue, 28 April 2015 00:11]

Good question Pete.

The fuel pumps do have non return valves and are on a common fuel delivery line. We don't need the fuel selector valve for the fuel from the tank to the engine, but for the fuel returning to the tank from the engine.

The last stage of the three tank system we are building is to make individual fuel fill lines from three individual gas caps to the three tanks; so at that point the return fuel will need to go back to the tank it came from, requiring fuel tank selector valves.

It would have been a lot easier to use the common rail fuel delivery line, use only one common vapor line to the existing filler neck and one common rail fuel return line to all three tanks with no fuel selector valves. Our fuel pump/sending units lines dump return fuel at the base of the in tank pumps pick up.

Three simple lines (delivery, return and vapor) would have been a lot easier but won't work with three totally separate fuel tank systems. We might go with a common fuel return line until we find suitable fuel selector valves.

Our goal is to make three totally independent fuel tank systems.

Don and Susan Jeffers
78 Eleganza II EFI


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Re: Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve [message #276916 is a reply to message #276894] Tue, 28 April 2015 14:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
djeffers is currently offline  djeffers   United States
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[/quote]
For safety reasons you might want to install a low oil pressure cutoff switch.

http://www.gmcmotorhome.info/engine.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/misc/p19123-electric-fuel-pump-wiring.html

JP
[/quote]

The low oil pressure switch is a great suggestion and thanks for the links.

But I would rather have the low pressure switch turn on a big red light in my face than turn the engine off.

I investigated a two tractor-double-trailer-truck-wreck on the Pennsylvania Turnpike where a truck up from Florida had the diesel fuel gel in the cold early morning winter hours, causing the fuel pressure to drop and the computer to shut the engine down.

The driver couldn't get the truck completely off the roadway because he couldn't re-start the engine. Along came another tractor trailer truck with a sleepy driver and hit the first truck.

A terrible fire ensued and both drivers and trucks burned in the fire. The Turnpike was shut down for several hours. The accident could have possibly been prevented if the first driver had been able to restart the engine and move the truck off the roadway on low or intermittent fuel pressure.

I like the big red warning light that would allow me to drive the coach's engine to destruction to get us to safety.

Thanks for the reminder for the low pressure switch.

Don and Susan Jeffers
78 Eleganza II

[Updated on: Tue, 28 April 2015 14:23]

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Re: Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve [message #276920 is a reply to message #276916] Tue, 28 April 2015 14:54 Go to previous messageGo to next message
thesmith is currently offline  thesmith   United States
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Location: Cary, NC
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Big red lights not going to help if its you that has been incapitated...........in collision or through medical emergency.

My ford station wagon in the UK had a switch under the spare tire that would cut the ignition and fuel pump if bumped hard. I set it off a couple of times when chucking spare in after a flat so it wasn't a huge shock required. Seems like something like that in the same orientation as OEM plus the oil pressure would cover most of the bases Switch could be somewhere its easily checked/reset and one could have over-ride switch on dash for when oil light comes on and you need to keep power on even if you know you are toasting the engine.



Pete




djeffers wrote on Tue, 28 April 2015 14:22

For safety reasons you might want to install a low oil pressure cutoff switch.

http://www.gmcmotorhome.info/engine.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/misc/p19123-electric-fuel-pump-wiring.html

JP
[/quote]

The low oil pressure switch is a great suggestion and thanks for the links.

But I would rather have the low pressure switch turn on a big red light in my face than turn the engine off.

I investigated a two tractor-double-trailer-truck-wreck on the Pennsylvania Turnpike where a truck up from Florida had the diesel fuel gel in the cold early morning winter hours, causing the fuel pressure to drop and the computer to shut the engine down.

The driver couldn't get the truck completely off the roadway because he couldn't re-start the engine. Along came another tractor trailer truck with a sleepy driver and hit the first truck.

A terrible fire ensued and both drivers and trucks burned in the fire. The Turnpike was shut down for several hours. The accident could have possibly been prevented if the first driver had been able to restart the engine and move the truck off the roadway on low or intermittent fuel pressure.

I like the big red warning light that would allow me to drive the coach's engine to destruction to get us to safety.

Thanks for the reminder for the low pressure switch.

Don and Susan Jeffers
78 Eleganza II
[/quote]


Cary, NC 1978 Center Kitchen Royale.
Re: Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve [message #276923 is a reply to message #276916] Tue, 28 April 2015 17:11 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jp Benson is currently offline  Jp Benson   United States
Messages: 649
Registered: October 2011
Location: Fla
Karma: 2
Senior Member
djeffers wrote on Tue, 28 April 2015 14:22

For safety reasons you might want to install a low oil pressure cutoff switch.

http://www.gmcmotorhome.info/engine.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/misc/p19123-electric-fuel-pump-wiring.html

JP
[/quote]


The low oil pressure switch is a great suggestion and thanks for the links.

But I would rather have the low pressure switch turn on a big red light in my face than turn the engine off.

The driver couldn't get the truck completely off the roadway because he couldn't re-start the engine. Along came another tractor trailer truck with a sleepy driver and hit the first truck.
.........

Don and Susan Jeffers
78 Eleganza II
[/quote]

Catastrophe often requires two or more things to go wrong.

I installed an emergency/manual override. Some versions use the starter power to override the low pressure switch.

JP


Re: Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve [message #276931 is a reply to message #276850] Tue, 28 April 2015 20:11 Go to previous messageGo to next message
kerry pinkerton is currently offline  kerry pinkerton   United States
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Location: Harvest, Al
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Senior Member
I've gone to two electric pumps with the stock fill system. I use a VEGA oil pressure switch which is wired to kill power to the fuel pump relays should oil pressure drop. My Digipanel will start screaming at me when the oil pressure drops below 15psi. I have a manual override switch so I can make the decision if I want to possibly sacrifice my engine in order to get off the road/railroad track/etc.



Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
Re: Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve [message #276947 is a reply to message #276931] Tue, 28 April 2015 23:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
djeffers is currently offline  djeffers   United States
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Since the subject of emergencies has come up, I would like to share an experience I had in our GMC:

We were pulling off a state highway onto a fairly narrow, right angle two lane road entrance to a small park, going about 12-15 mph. I had just begun the turn-in when our engine just suddenly quit; the only time it has ever done that.

We were going slow enough that the torque converter immediately decoupled and the engine stopped rotating, instantly losing power steering along with the engine power. We were committed to the turn and the steering became VERY heavy.

Straight ahead I would have hit cars exiting. It took both hands and arms, a LOT of force and my body braced in the seat to continue turning the wheel. No way I could turn loose of the wheel to twist the ignition key for restart; all my appendages were in play. Once around the turn and nearly coasted to a stop, the engine re-started right up with a twist of the key. That power drop has not occurred in the years since.

If you ever have the opportunity to drive your coach in a safe area with the power steering belt off, I would highly recommend that familiarity tour around a large empty space so you will be mentally prepared for the no-power steering experience. A power steering belt break will immediately put you in the same situation at any speed. I am now eternally vigilant regarding my steering situation and the possible loss of power steering.

Susan would have had no chance to complete that turn safely.

Drive safely,

Don and Susan Jeffers
78 Eleganza II
Re: [GMCnet] Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve [message #276952 is a reply to message #276947] Wed, 29 April 2015 02:43 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Vincent Southern Boat is currently offline  Vincent Southern Boat   United States
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Junior Member
Thank you for that Don. We are picking up our first GMC soon and already have the spare belts in a box to take with us. What else should I find and bring before leaving?
Thank again Don.

Vincent Scutellaro
Advertising Director
Cell: 954-816-0565
Office: 954-522-5515
Southern Boating Magazine
330 N. Andrews Ave
Suite 200
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301

> On Apr 29, 2015, at 12:19 AM, "Don Jeffers" wrote:
>
> Since the subject of emergencies has come up, I would like to share an experience I had in our GMC:
>
> We were pulling off a state highway onto a fairly narrow, right angle two lane road entrance to a small park, going about 12-15 mph. I had just begun
> the turn-in when our engine just suddenly quit; the only time it has ever done that.
>
> We were going slow enough that the torque converter immediately decoupled and the engine stopped rotating, instantly losing power steering along with
> the engine power. We were committed to the turn and the steering became VERY heavy.
>
> Straight ahead I would have hit cars exiting. It took both hands and arms, a LOT of force and my body braced in the seat to continue turning the
> wheel. No way I could turn loose of the wheel to twist the ignition key for restart; all my appendages were in play. Once around the turn and nearly
> coasted to a stop, the engine re-started right up with a twist of the key. That power drop has not occurred in the years since.
>
> If you ever have the opportunity to drive your coach in a safe area with the power steering belt off, I would highly recommend that familiarity tour
> around a large empty space so you will be mentally prepared for the no-power steering experience. A power steering belt break will immediately put you
> in the same situation at any speed. I am now eternally vigilant regarding my steering situation and the possible loss of power steering.
>
> Susan would have had no chance to complete that turn safely.
>
> Drive safely,
>
> Don and Susan Jeffers
> 78 Eleganza II
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Re: [GMCnet] Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve [message #276954 is a reply to message #276947] Wed, 29 April 2015 05:39 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Mr ERFisher is currently offline  Mr ERFisher   United States
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Registered: August 2005
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Senior Member
Read her for more on these emergencies
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6460/start_switch_talk.pdf


On Tuesday, April 28, 2015, Don Jeffers wrote:

> Since the subject of emergencies has come up, I would like to share an
> experience I had in our GMC:
>
> We were pulling off a state highway onto a fairly narrow, right angle two
> lane road entrance to a small park, going about 12-15 mph. I had just begun
> the turn-in when our engine just suddenly quit; the only time it has ever
> done that.
>
> We were going slow enough that the torque converter immediately decoupled
> and the engine stopped rotating, instantly losing power steering along with
> the engine power. We were committed to the turn and the steering became
> VERY heavy.
>
> Straight ahead I would have hit cars exiting. It took both hands and
> arms, a LOT of force and my body braced in the seat to continue turning the
> wheel. No way I could turn loose of the wheel to twist the ignition key
> for restart; all my appendages were in play. Once around the turn and
> nearly
> coasted to a stop, the engine re-started right up with a twist of the
> key. That power drop has not occurred in the years since.
>
> If you ever have the opportunity to drive your coach in a safe area with
> the power steering belt off, I would highly recommend that familiarity tour
> around a large empty space so you will be mentally prepared for the
> no-power steering experience. A power steering belt break will immediately
> put you
> in the same situation at any speed. I am now eternally vigilant regarding
> my steering situation and the possible loss of power steering.
>
> Susan would have had no chance to complete that turn safely.
>
> Drive safely,
>
> Don and Susan Jeffers
> 78 Eleganza II
>
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--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
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Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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Re: Electric Fuel Tank Selector Valve [message #277031 is a reply to message #276857] Wed, 29 April 2015 21:02 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
rickmike is currently offline  rickmike   
Messages: 252
Registered: September 2011
Location: United States
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Senior Member
rickmike wrote on Mon, 27 April 2015 20:11
The return is low pressure.

You can use the original selector valve.

Rick M.


I understood that you were referring to the return lines from the Fuel Injection System.

When I say low pressure I mean like non-existent.

The only pressure is the pressure it takes to overcome the flow resistance between the valve and the tank, a few feet.
Like maybe 1 psi.

You can use the old valve.

Some Fuel Injection folks connect the return line to the filler tube just behind the wheel well.
This works great. No valves in return line at all.

Rick M.


1974 26' Canyonlands aka "The General" Clinton, TN

[Updated on: Wed, 29 April 2015 21:13]

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