| Patching holes in Aluminum Sides [message #275042] |
Sun, 05 April 2015 00:53  |
 |
Broham
Messages: 204
Registered: March 2013
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Hello all,
While was was replacing my headliner I found a few 1/8" or so holes from the old awning in the sides witch allowed water in. What is the best way (other that TIGing the holes up) to repair them with access to both sides? I'm thinking some tape on the outside and JB weld on the inside.
thanks in advance
Todd
Todd
Owner of a 1976 Eleganza II 26’
other toys:
93 Vette
84 Goldwing
and gone but not forgotten
72 CB750 Chopper
96 Caprice Classic
34 Ford roadster
94 Fleetwood
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: Patching holes in Aluminum Sides [message #275048 is a reply to message #275042] |
Sun, 05 April 2015 09:00  |
GeorgeRud
Messages: 1380
Registered: February 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I've used the blind rivets with good luck. However, I've always wondered if a coating of Plastigrip sprayed on the roof would create a nice, inexpensive waterproof coating to help with leaks. It does seem to be a never ending process of finding and sealing them.
George Rudawsky
Chicago, IL
75 Palm Beach
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: Patching holes in Aluminum Sides [message #275059 is a reply to message #275042] |
Sun, 05 April 2015 10:52 |
drdonaldg
Messages: 35
Registered: June 2013
Location: San Rafael, CA
Karma: 1
|
Member |
|
|
Since you have access to both sides, I have used a small aluminum backing plate on the inside and attached it with a one part polyurethane adhesive. After it has cured you can use Bondo or if it is a larger opening use MarineTex as it will stay slightly flexible as does the one part polyurethane on the outside. It will never leak!
1977 Palm Beach
TZE167V100274
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Patching holes in Aluminum Sides [message #275094 is a reply to message #275089] |
Sun, 05 April 2015 19:41 |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Larry,
Here's some advice for when one wants to drill a hole through the skin of a GMC. There are LOTS of wires that have been "foamed" to
the inside of the sheet metal and fiberglass.
The ladder on Double Trouble was held to the rear panel with sheet metal screws and they were loose. I was worried that they might
pull out when hauled my fat a$$ up. I decided on using expanding rivet nuts (look like Molly bolts) from McMaster Carr. I had to
drill 1/4" holes through the fiberglass for them.
When it was all done the ladder was SOLID. A few hours later I happened to open the freezer and noticed that stuff was defrosting!
It turned out that the 12vdc to the fridge was dead. The only thing I had done was to drill the holes for the ladder so I figgered
out where the drill would have come through on the inside and carefully cut out a section of the plastic rear wall down low just
above the floor. Once that was done I could see where the 1/4" drill had come through the spray foam insulation. I removed the foam
and could see that the 1/4" drill had cut the wire that supplied 12vdc to the fridge. Fortunately I was able to splice a section of
new wire in.
Bottom line: when you drill through the outside of a GMC use a drill stop that stops the drill as soon as it pierces the skin.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic & Lunar Nut Case
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry
Dale Ropp gave a presentation at GMCMI convention on using fiberglass resin to patch holes in fiberglass and aluminum. Mix up
fiberglass resin and soak a couple of Yellow ear plugs (yes the type that you put in your ears when shooting at a gun range) in the
resin. He claimed that the Yellow plugs seam to work best at absorbing the resin. Then using a large drill, or countersink, slightly
taper (counter sink) the holes. Then force the soaked earplugs into the hole using a philips screwdriver or whatever tool is needed
to push the plug half way through. The soaked earplug will expand on the other side so that when the resin cures, it can't pull
out. Then just sand off flush with the surface, prepare accordingly and paint to match. Can't remember the name of the resin he
used, but would think most any brand would work. On of the neatest ideas I've seen for plugging and redrilling holes where the
screw has pulled out and the hole is now to big for the next size screw....you know...like the screws that hold the ladder in
place...
--
Larry
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Patching holes in Aluminum Sides [message #275145 is a reply to message #275094] |
Mon, 06 April 2015 09:17 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
|
Senior Member |
|
|
OUCH
On Sunday, April 5, 2015, Robert Mueller wrote:
> Larry,
>
> Here's some advice for when one wants to drill a hole through the skin of
> a GMC. There are LOTS of wires that have been "foamed" to
> the inside of the sheet metal and fiberglass.
>
> The ladder on Double Trouble was held to the rear panel with sheet metal
> screws and they were loose. I was worried that they might
> pull out when hauled my fat a$$ up. I decided on using expanding rivet
> nuts (look like Molly bolts) from McMaster Carr. I had to
> drill 1/4" holes through the fiberglass for them.
>
> When it was all done the ladder was SOLID. A few hours later I happened to
> open the freezer and noticed that stuff was defrosting!
> It turned out that the 12vdc to the fridge was dead. The only thing I had
> done was to drill the holes for the ladder so I figgered
> out where the drill would have come through on the inside and carefully
> cut out a section of the plastic rear wall down low just
> above the floor. Once that was done I could see where the 1/4" drill had
> come through the spray foam insulation. I removed the foam
> and could see that the 1/4" drill had cut the wire that supplied 12vdc to
> the fridge. Fortunately I was able to splice a section of
> new wire in.
>
> Bottom line: when you drill through the outside of a GMC use a drill stop
> that stops the drill as soon as it pierces the skin.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> The Pedantic Mechanic & Lunar Nut Case
> Sydney, Australia
> AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry
>
> Dale Ropp gave a presentation at GMCMI convention on using fiberglass
> resin to patch holes in fiberglass and aluminum. Mix up
> fiberglass resin and soak a couple of Yellow ear plugs (yes the type that
> you put in your ears when shooting at a gun range) in the
> resin. He claimed that the Yellow plugs seam to work best at absorbing the
> resin. Then using a large drill, or countersink, slightly
> taper (counter sink) the holes. Then force the soaked earplugs into the
> hole using a philips screwdriver or whatever tool is needed
> to push the plug half way through. The soaked earplug will expand on the
> other side so that when the resin cures, it can't pull
> out. Then just sand off flush with the surface, prepare accordingly and
> paint to match. Can't remember the name of the resin he
> used, but would think most any brand would work. On of the neatest ideas
> I've seen for plugging and redrilling holes where the
> screw has pulled out and the hole is now to big for the next size
> screw....you know...like the screws that hold the ladder in
> place...
> --
> Larry
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
| Re: Patching holes in Aluminum Sides [message #275202 is a reply to message #275042] |
Mon, 06 April 2015 16:46 |
Larry
Messages: 2875
Registered: January 2004
Location: Menomonie, WI
Karma: 10
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Just got a note from Dale Ropp. He says "Just read your info and the epoxy to use is West system from Gougeon brothers in bay city Michigan . "
Good Stuff!!
Larry 
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
|
|
|
|
GMCforum
Search
Help
Register
Login
Home
