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Custom Trailer Hitch Insert [message #274505] Sat, 28 March 2015 13:34 Go to next message
mickey szilagyi is currently offline  mickey szilagyi   United States
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We are about to embark on another custom project, one of many we dream up because we have nothing better to do. Rolling Eyes We installed a Merrell hitch last fall and bought a storage platform from Harbor Freight to haul firewood and other dirty, bulky stuff. We are now fabricating a different receiver insert that will hold the platform but will also have a vertical bar welded to the insert so it extends upward just behind the spare tire that will then have another receiver at the top that will hold a bike rack. The plan is to use the platform and have a bike rack above it for 4 bikes or more. We would appreciate input as to the thickness of the steel tubing we plan to or should use.

The Harbor Freight platform insert is steel between 1/8 and 3/16 thick (seems to be just shy of 3/16). It's rated to hold 500 lbs. and many of you have previously stated you loaded it to just about that weight. We have purchase raw Curt receivers that we will use in the fabrication - they have 1/4 inch walls. We'd like to make the top receiver assembly height adjustable - it will slide down onto the vertical 2 inch tubing just behind the spare tire. Initial measurements call for the vertical piece to extend up to 18 inches or so above the bottom insert.

We have purchased a number of lengths of 2 inch tubing from a scrap yard, some is 1/4 thick, some 3/16. Is the 3/16 strong enough to use as the bottom insert that will hold the platform, vertical tubing, top receiver and bike rack or should we go with the 1/4 inch tubing for all of that? My son says go with the 1/4 inch as the weight difference isn't that much but I'm always concerned about a few pounds here and a few there, they add up. I also like the 3/16 inch tubing more as the corners are not as rounded as the 1/4 inch tubing.

Total weight of everything we might carry will vary but may be as much as 600 to 700 lbs. Is the Merrell hitch, coach (77 Kingsley), and this set up capable of carrying such a load?

One other question is the depth the bottom insert should or can go into the Merrell hitch receiver. The Merrell hitch receiver has quite a depth to it which most inserts don't penetrate fully. Would it be wise to untilize that entire depth/length with the bottom insert - is there a strength advantage by making the insert as long as possible?

I guess I might as well comment on the sway issue this contraption may incur. We're planning to use or make some type of tightening hitch locks to eliminate or minimize sway.

Thank you all for your input. If there's something else we're not contemplating please let us know that too.


Mickey 1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI

[Updated on: Sat, 28 March 2015 13:38]

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Re: Custom Trailer Hitch Insert [message #274525 is a reply to message #274505] Sat, 28 March 2015 20:48 Go to previous messageGo to next message
thesmith is currently offline  thesmith   United States
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There are many different types of steel.......and hardness as well. Both could affect the strength of the tube even if the thickness was the same.

Have a look at the mcmaster site. www.mcmaster.com

Likely a chrome moly like 4140 would be best......

Pete


Cary, NC 1978 Center Kitchen Royale.
Re: Custom Trailer Hitch Insert [message #274528 is a reply to message #274505] Sat, 28 March 2015 23:42 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
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Call Blaine Merrell.

Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Re: Custom Trailer Hitch Insert [message #274541 is a reply to message #274505] Sun, 29 March 2015 12:10 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Adrien G. is currently offline  Adrien G.   United States
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mickey szilagyi wrote on Sat, 28 March 2015 13:34
We are about to embark on another custom project, one of many we dream up because we have nothing better to do. Rolling Eyes We installed a Merrell hitch last fall and bought a storage platform from Harbor Freight to haul firewood and other dirty, bulky stuff. We are now fabricating a different receiver insert that will hold the platform but will also have a vertical bar welded to the insert so it extends upward just behind the spare tire that will then have another receiver at the top that will hold a bike rack. The plan is to use the platform and have a bike rack above it for 4 bikes or more. We would appreciate input as to the thickness of the steel tubing we plan to or should use.

The Harbor Freight platform insert is steel between 1/8 and 3/16 thick (seems to be just shy of 3/16). It's rated to hold 500 lbs. and many of you have previously stated you loaded it to just about that weight. We have purchase raw Curt receivers that we will use in the fabrication - they have 1/4 inch walls. We'd like to make the top receiver assembly height adjustable - it will slide down onto the vertical 2 inch tubing just behind the spare tire. Initial measurements call for the vertical piece to extend up to 18 inches or so above the bottom insert.

We have purchased a number of lengths of 2 inch tubing from a scrap yard, some is 1/4 thick, some 3/16. Is the 3/16 strong enough to use as the bottom insert that will hold the platform, vertical tubing, top receiver and bike rack or should we go with the 1/4 inch tubing for all of that? My son says go with the 1/4 inch as the weight difference isn't that much but I'm always concerned about a few pounds here and a few there, they add up. I also like the 3/16 inch tubing more as the corners are not as rounded as the 1/4 inch tubing.

Total weight of everything we might carry will vary but may be as much as 600 to 700 lbs. Is the Merrell hitch, coach (77 Kingsley), and this set up capable of carrying such a load?

One other question is the depth the bottom insert should or can go into the Merrell hitch receiver. The Merrell hitch receiver has quite a depth to it which most inserts don't penetrate fully. Would it be wise to untilize that entire depth/length with the bottom insert - is there a strength advantage by making the insert as long as possible?

I guess I might as well comment on the sway issue this contraption may incur. We're planning to use or make some type of tightening hitch locks to eliminate or minimize sway.

Thank you all for your input. If there's something else we're not contemplating please let us know that too.




Mickey,

Use the 2"x 2"x 1/4" wall tube for the width of the carrier and stab it in 12", that will do for the weight you mention.
Add a bracket that rests on top of the bumper, on the right and left front corner of the carrier
to minimize carrier twist.
When loading, load the heavy items in front and center of the carrier.
And a reminder that rear weight removes front weight, 700# on the rear removes about 500# from the front axle.

That should be more then adequate.







Adrien & Jenny Genesoto 75 Glenbrook (26-3) Mods LS3.70 FD / Reaction Sys / 80mm Front&Intermidiate / Hydroboost / 16" Tires / Frame Rebuild / Interior Rebuild Yuba City,Ca. Text 530-nine-3-three-3-nine-nine-6
Re: Custom Trailer Hitch Insert [message #274579 is a reply to message #274505] Sun, 29 March 2015 20:51 Go to previous messageGo to next message
mickey szilagyi is currently offline  mickey szilagyi   United States
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Thanks everyone, Ken and Adrien. We started on it today. We used the 2 x 2 1/4 tubing for the main insert. We'll post pictures once we get some of it welded together.

Mickey 1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
Re: Custom Trailer Hitch Insert [message #274587 is a reply to message #274541] Mon, 30 March 2015 06:33 Go to previous message
kerry pinkerton is currently offline  kerry pinkerton   United States
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Adrien G. wrote on Sun, 29 March 2015 12:10
Use the 2"x 2"x 1/4" wall tube for the width of the carrier and stab it in 12", that will do for the weight you mention.
Add a bracket that rests on top of the bumper, on the right and left front corner of the carrier
to minimize carrier twist.
When loading, load the heavy items in front and center of the carrier.
And a reminder that rear weight removes front weight, 700# on the rear removes about 500# from the front axle.

That should be more then adequate.



I'm not an engineer but I agree. I just did a similar thing on my coach except it was on the HF aluminum rack. I had previously added an extra female component to the thru the bumper hitch. The HF unit came with a piece of about 2x2x1/8...might be 3/18 tubing that slid into the receiver. I cut it and added a 2x2x1/4 vertical component to raise it above the toad Ready Brake hitch and clear the hood of the toad when turning sharp. There will feet on the corners of the rack that rest on the bumpers to keep it from twisting.


Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
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