Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Yes Matilda it is possible... (to change your fuel filler hoses without dropping the tanks)
| Yes Matilda it is possible... [message #273373] |
Mon, 09 March 2015 11:46  |
kerry pinkerton
Messages: 2565
Registered: July 2012
Location: Harvest, Al
Karma: 15
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Senior Member |
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The MAIN purpose of my trip to Ken Henderson's a couple weeks back was to fix a fuel leak when the tanks were full. Turned out to be a weeping fuel filler elbow so I ordered them from Applied and told Jim I wanted to pay for overnight. Unfortunately, Jim forgot and shipped them two day and then USPS didn't meet their delivery date and they did not arrive till day three. By then I had made some temporary hoses from radiator hoses and driven home. The good news is that the shipping charge was reversed by USPS because they screwed up.
Ken H mailed me the hoses and I've been dreading trying to get them on without dropping the tanks again. Today is the least rainy day of the week so today was the day.
I turned the coach around and drove the drivers side up on ramps, lifted it as high as the bags would put it and dropped the other side to get as much gas away from the filler neck as possible. I then eased the drain plug out to see if any gas came out and when it didn't I knew I wasn't going to get another face full of gas. My gauges showed about 3/4 full.
The secret for me was taking loose the clamps that hold the steel fuel filler line in place. That gives you an extra half inch. The front tank hose was a beaich but I put some white lube on the inside of the hose and pried with some big screwdrivers and got it on the tank, then pried some more and got a lip over the filler tube. A bit of work with a bent cotter key puller and it slid on.
The rear elbow was easy. Again, the white lube made it slide into position much easier. Tighten up all the clamps including the frame to steel line clamps and the tanks are done...about an hour start to finish once the coach was in position and in the air.
I had ordered the front hose below the drivers seat also and changed it but once I got it out, it was obvious it had been recently changed. Oh well, I'll put it on the Kingsley.
Once again, the dreading of the job was much worse than the actual doing of it. All in all done, 2 hours including positioning and jacking. 
Check your hoses. Ken's front hose was in really, really bad shape with lots of cracks that appeared to be pretty deep.
Next project.
Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama
Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
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| Fuel Fill hoses and things like dropping tanks [message #273408 is a reply to message #273373] |
Mon, 09 March 2015 19:32  |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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This is an extension of what kerry pinkerton wrote on Mon, 09 March 2015 12:46
If it doesn't make sense, read his first.
It might be some kind of a record and if it is, I will gladly relinquish it to anybody.
I have had my tanks down four times. Each was for a different reason and each was to be the last.
Please remember this learned experience and if you forget where you read it, just remember contact me.
*First - When you are going to work on the tanks, get a clean 50 gal drum (probably at a car wash) and a cheap little electric fuel pump. These are to empty the tanks, store the fuel and then return it to the tanks. It makes a very clean operation. Also acquire either the Hazard Fright 20$ cargo straps (always on sale for 10$) or 2ea 12' pieces of crumby line. Line works well if you know how to tie and use a bowline and a rolling hitch.
*Second - Defuel Use the pump and some gas line to pull as much fuel out as you can.
The tanks are not heavy, but any fuel loose in them makes life difficult, so if you can get the drain plugs out - Do it. Just be ready to catch 3~5 gallons.
*Third - Remove the fill lines before you do much else. Getting the tanks free of these is a real Beaich (to borrow a technical term) when coming down or going back - if you are juggling the tanks alone and on your back. The older coaches have a fill line that is more pieces and more rubber than the newer. Neither is all that tough to deal with, but none are that much fun either.
*Fourth - Use the line or straps to be a temporary and adjustable support for both tanks. It works well if you go over the transverse member that is immediately ahead of the tank and secure to the member forward of that. This even works for a 23 where there is less room. I found it was easier to take down the front tank first as that will give you better access to the fasteners that you have to get at to let the rear tank down. The reason for the straps is that I used my floor jack the first time (I learned) and that doesn't work very well because it ends up having to be exactly where you want to be.  The lines or straps don't have this issue.
*Fifth - Once the tanks are on the straps, check that everything is actually disconnected.  Let the each tank down on to something -cardboard -a moving dolly and get it out where you can deal with it.
Going back up is not tough either, get the tank under the coach and over the straps and hoist away. A little at a time. The tank will not go where you want, but while it is hanging there, it is easily shoved and jogged into place a little at a time. Once it is real near where it wants to be, you can assemble the support straps underneath it. Be sure the J bolts are in place before you start lifting. I could not get them in when the tanks was there.
Now connect the all the electrics and the fuel and vent lines. When that is done the fill tube goes back in by rolling it into the hoses that connect at the tanks.
If you start the coach now, and it only runs for 30~45 seconds, that is because all your fuel is still in the barrel. But you can use the pump to put in back in just save a little to prime the carburetor.
I hope this will save somebody a lot of grief.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] Yes Matilda it is possible... [message #273412 is a reply to message #273373] |
Mon, 09 March 2015 19:40 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Kerry,
How 'bout that -- I, too, worked on fuel filler hoses today. With a
waiting-for-the-welder lull in the fabrication of my new right side exhaust
pipe, I finally got around to installing the new 45* elbow at the front of
the fill tube, which came with your shipment from JimK.
I couldn't believe how difficult that 39 year old hose was to remove; never
did get it off without resorting to the knife. While it was out of the
way, I installed the added burp line we started while we had my tank down.
Installing the new large hose was easy.
Ken H.
On Mon, Mar 9, 2015 at 12:46 PM, Kerry Pinkerton
wrote:
> The MAIN purpose of my trip to Ken Henderson's a couple weeks back was to
> fix a fuel leak when the tanks were full. Turned out to be a weeping fuel
> filler elbow so I ordered them from Applied and told Jim I wanted to pay
> for overnight. Unfortunately, Jim forgot and shipped them two day and then
> USPS didn't meet their delivery date and they did not arrive till day
> three. By then I had made some temporary hoses from radiator hoses and
> driven
> home. The good news is that the shipping charge was reversed by USPS
> because they screwed up.
>
> Ken H mailed me the hoses and I've been dreading trying to get them on
> without dropping the tanks again. Today is the least rainy day of the week
> so
> today was the day.
>
> I turned the coach around and drove the drivers side up on ramps, lifted
> it as high as the bags would put it and dropped the other side to get as
> much
> gas away from the filler neck as possible. I then eased the drain plug
> out to see if any gas came out and when it didn't I knew I wasn't going to
> get
> another face full of gas. My gauges showed about 3/4 full.
>
> The secret for me was taking loose the clamps that hold the steel fuel
> filler line in place. That gives you an extra half inch. The front tank
> hose
> was a beaich but I put some white lube on the inside of the hose and pried
> with some big screwdrivers and got it on the tank, then pried some more and
> got a lip over the filler tube. A bit of work with a bent cotter key
> puller and it slid on.
>
> The rear elbow was easy. Again, the white lube made it slide into
> position much easier. Tighten up all the clamps including the frame to
> steel line
> clamps and the tanks are done...about an hour start to finish once the
> coach was in position and in the air.
>
> I had ordered the front hose below the drivers seat also and changed it
> but once I got it out, it was obvious it had been recently changed. Oh
> well,
> I'll put it on the Kingsley.
>
> Once again, the dreading of the job was much worse than the actual doing
> of it. All in all done, 2 hours including positioning and jacking. :lol:
>
> Check your hoses. Ken's front hose was in really, really bad shape with
> lots of cracks that appeared to be pretty deep.
>
> Next project. :lol:
> --
> Kerry Pinkerton
>
> North Alabama
>
> 77 Eleganza II, 403CI, Manny Brakes, 1 ton, tranny, lots of aluminum
> goodies.
>
> 76 Kingsley by Buskirk. Rear twins/dry bath, EFI Caddy.
>
> Also a 76 Eleganza to be re-bodied as an Art Deco car hauler
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: Fuel Fill hoses and things like dropping tanks [message #273461 is a reply to message #273408] |
Tue, 10 March 2015 11:15 |
George Beckman
Messages: 1085
Registered: October 2008
Location: Colfax, CA
Karma: 11
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Senior Member |
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Matt Colie wrote on Mon, 09 March 2015 17:32
*Fourth - Use the line or straps to be a temporary and adjustable support for both tanks. It works well if you go over the transverse member that is immediately ahead of the tank and secure to the member forward of that. This even works for a 23 where there is less room. I found it was easier to take down the front tank first as that will give you better access to the fasteners that you have to get at to let the rear tank down. The reason for the straps is that I used my floor jack the first time (I learned) and that doesn't work very well because it ends up having to be exactly where you want to be. The lines or straps don't have this issue.
*Fifth - Once the tanks are on the straps, check that everything is actually disconnected. Let the each tank down on to something -cardboard -a moving dolly and get it out where you can deal with it.
I hope this will save somebody a lot of grief.
Matt
In case you did not notice the straps* part of Matt's post, I want to give an "attaboy" to whoever came up with the strap idea. I know my tanks have been down two or three times, using a floor jack. I have helped Randy Van Winkle do his once, using a floor jack. A couple of weeks ago we lowered Randy's Aux tank with straps.
Wow. Piece of cake. Easy. Not one drop (of the 257 gallons left after you pump them dry and open the drain plug) spilled. Putting them back up was easier yet as they are gently supported and you can ease them into place a bit at a time. No sudden moves or unexpected shifts.
Straps is the way to go.
* Two cargo straps with a hook at one end and a little ratchet at the other. Loop the hook ends over cross members and you are on the way.
'74 Eleganza, SE, Howell + EBL
Best Wishes,
George
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| Re: Fuel Fill hoses and things like dropping tanks [message #273480 is a reply to message #273461] |
Tue, 10 March 2015 16:57 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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George Beckman wrote on Tue, 10 March 2015 09:15Matt Colie wrote on Mon, 09 March 2015 17:32
*Fourth - Use the line or straps to be a temporary and adjustable support for both tanks. It works well if you go over the transverse member that is immediately ahead of the tank and secure to the member forward of that. This even works for a 23 where there is less room. I found it was easier to take down the front tank first as that will give you better access to the fasteners that you have to get at to let the rear tank down. The reason for the straps is that I used my floor jack the first time (I learned) and that doesn't work very well because it ends up having to be exactly where you want to be. The lines or straps don't have this issue.
*Fifth - Once the tanks are on the straps, check that everything is actually disconnected. Let the each tank down on to something -cardboard -a moving dolly and get it out where you can deal with it.
I hope this will save somebody a lot of grief.
Matt
In case you did not notice the straps* part of Matt's post, I want to give an "attaboy" to whoever came up with the strap idea. I know my tanks have been down two or three times, using a floor jack. I have helped Randy Van Winkle do his once, using a floor jack. A couple of weeks ago we lowered Randy's Aux tank with straps.
Wow. Piece of cake. Easy. Not one drop (of the 257 gallons left after you pump them dry and open the drain plug) spilled. Putting them back up was easier yet as they are gently supported and you can ease them into place a bit at a time. No sudden moves or unexpected shifts.
Straps is the way to go.
* Two cargo straps with a hook at one end and a little ratchet at the other. Loop the hook ends over cross members and you are on the way.
That would be Matt on the straps idea. He first suggested that a while back, but after I did mine with a floor jack. Good thinking, Matt!
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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